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Old 07-31-2021, 02:11 AM   #151
Ginger Ninja
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Your build updates always make me want to swap a whiteblock in my 245!

Great stuff.
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Old 08-01-2021, 04:10 PM   #152
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Originally Posted by Ginger Ninja View Post
Your build updates always make me want to swap a whiteblock in my 245!

Great stuff.
This build thread convinced me to swap a B6284t in my 740.
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Old 08-03-2021, 03:37 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger Ninja View Post
Your build updates always make me want to swap a whiteblock in my 245!

Great stuff.
It's not that big of an operation

Quote:
Originally Posted by poulrais View Post
This build thread convinced me to swap a B6284t in my 740.
Sorry not sorry.


Last Thursday coming from work engine sputtered shortly and died. Fuel pump crapped itself completely without a warning just like the previous AEM did in the "B6284T". Both got completely stuck. First one was 380lph version and this 400lph lasted barely 1600km/1000miles I tried knocking the 400lph pump and rotated it backwards, but no change. Took the K-jet copy pump out of "B6284T" for a temporary fix.

Ordered a Hellcat-type Walbro but a smaller 450lph version. No need for a bigger one. Installed it today and at the same time changed the pipe in to a 10mm, installed a new feed wire, etc.. Just clipped the stock plastic pump holder with side cutters and used a hose clamp to pinch the pump inside. Slipping the package inside the tank was tight but not bad.


Managed to apply some paint mist on to parts while spraying primer.

Yesterday checked the breather can situation and there was barely anything. I installed it before 1/4 mile and have driven around 900km/560miles after that without checking. Not too bad. Oil consumption is the same as before so it looks like ringlands are still good. I was a bit suspicious because of the timing issue after the swap.
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Old 08-29-2021, 05:16 PM   #154
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I was still suspicious of broken ringland(s) and did a compression test. It showed 11.5-12.5bar when cold. Warm engine had 10 on first cylinder and the rest were the same. There were also signs of oil on 1. and 2. cyl. pistons.

A week ago on Sunday did a teardown and pistons were okay. There was oil on top of every piston so it was because of piston rings even though they felt and seemed to be ok. T4/T5/T6 has three different types of pistons and naturally I had a ring set for a different type. Swapped the pistons to ones with presumably good rings and slapped bottom end back together.

Luckily 240 has an easy access cross member


Checked the valves with brake cleaner and almost all were leaking. Seems like the compression drop on cyl 1 was because of them. ~2.5 years ago after I got the engine together I adjusted the cams. While engine rotated freely by hand, the sound it made when running meant that intake valves did meet the pistons. It has worked fine ever since so I wasn't too worried. Head got machined on Monday and installed it the same evening. Wastegate inlet flange showed signs of leakage and I filed it straight.

On Tuesday evening installed the rest of the stuff, ran it hot with a "cleaning" oil and changed driving oil and filter.

Radiator(Griffin) had been dripping between left end tank and upper fins for almost two years already and lately it had developed into a leak. Soda blasted the spot, gave it some heat and dropped car body solder on to it. For now seems to be holding fine.

On Wednesday swapped in FWD coils which this engine had before and now it has again good enough spark for higher boost. Friday was the day for a routine check before going to the track, change of front brake pads and install of new 224/45/17 Federal RS-PRO on to Comets.

Vrcf trackday on Saturday was on Botniaring which is a 800km/500miles round trip. Basic operation is to drive there and back including the track time. With the longer layout it's a nice track.

First set went smoothly but on the second run the car started shaking bad like having a broken u-joint. Engine died and shaking stopped when depressing the clutch so it wasn't a driveline issue. Rolled in to the pits and found a broken harmonic balancer that had ground the crank sensor and bent the sensor bracket. Trigger wheel kept the piece in place and nothing else was broken.



Removed the disc, bent the sensor bracket back and it fired up just fine. Revved the engine some and no apparent changes in behaviour. Curiosity got me and decided to take it back to the track with low rpm. Drove two sessions gradually driving faster but leisurely, until front brakes got too hot, without any issues. Drove all the tighter turns on 4th gear and it went surprisingly well. Braked like a granny too I'm really liking the tires, good grip all round and more quiet on the road than the old 205/50/16 RS-R.

An incar lap and a short outside shot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8p7nUrYUdM

After getting home made a check up and replaced the balancer. Still couldn't make a clear difference in resonances. If there is going to be consequences then there is

Some assembly required?


Didn't find anything big while going through the car, just a leaking left rear wheel bearing inner seal and a deteriorated fuel tank cap seal. It spilled a little on tight left turns.

Liking the Comets as well, didn't think they'd fit to the look. A shot of a dirty car after the track time.


Around 1400km/875miles driven after last Tuesday evening. Before there were visible oil puffs every now and then after a long engine brake, now it can't be seen from the mirror so something went right
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Old 08-31-2021, 02:17 PM   #155
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For a while I've had adapters on the shelf for P2 305mm front brake swap with 286mm brackets. Borrowed 302mm grooved discs from another project and they seem to fit fine with this combo. Depending on the pad it comes ~1mm over the edge of the disc and that can be adjusted.

Next thing is the pads. No one seems to have EBC on stock and Ferodo DS2500 is pretty expensive compared to that. It's around $130 vs $340. For now thinking of using a good stock pad but who knows if it's any better with extra cooling than the stock brakes with DS2500? Though a couple of laps at a time is enough.
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Old 08-31-2021, 03:16 PM   #156
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The 305 rotors are super heavy and very mediocre. The 302 is much better, the 316x28 ain't bad either.
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Old 08-31-2021, 05:49 PM   #157
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I read the post about weights and that's why 302mm was the only choice from the beginning. I had a set of 305mm brakes years ago on two other cars and can't go any bigger on this car. Not only because of the extra weight but because even with 305mm Galaxies won't fit without more work or a spacer.
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Old 09-05-2021, 06:37 PM   #158
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Friday evening went by while installing Ferodo front pads(got a decent price on them) with the bigger front brakes, new front control arms with stiffer polybushings, new pinion seal, greasing front wheel bearings and doing other stuff like emptying the breather can. Pinion seal had been leaking since new when I swapped rear gears.




Brakes weren't great. I could press the pedal to the floor even after pumping. On Saturday morning tested the order of brake lines but it didn't matter. Only swapping in the Mustang main cylinder from "B6284T" fixed the situation. Weird how P2 calipers have worked fine on three other cars with stock main cylinder and even with stock junction block.

After getting the brakes working I headed down to local track(Motopark) for a couple of laps. It's pretty quick with only 1.5bar boost. Just ran out of extra fuel, would've liked to do more laps. It was already almost 2 seconds faster with a bit less power than "B6284T" before I flipped it. Weight does wonders. Didn't really feel like I was pushing hard yet.

Early on I tightened front shocks 2 clicks, rears one and increased rear tire pressure. Got the handling better but springs are too soft for that track. I ordered stiffer front springs but they didn't arrive yet. RS-PRO's are pretty good but felt like RS-R on "B6284T" had more grip all round. Yes, I know RS-R is softer. Couldn't really push early coming out of the corners on 4th gear because of rear grip. For 3rd gear I had to really line it straight Needs wider and softer rear tires.

Brakes felt good after getting the fronts warm, no complaints. Going home the front was shaking bad and had to stop to check the wheels. Immediately lifted it up and front brakes were dragging. Brake booster rod needs a modified extension with Mustang MC and I had left it just a tiny bit too much out Front pads wore alot, no other issues.

Engine lost some oil and basically all of it was in the breather can. That has been a regular thing on track. Friend has a 945 "T6" and he has separate cans for the lines coming from original breather and the one coming from the sump. Only the can of the sump line has oil in it. We're thinking that centrifugal force lifts oil in acceleration and corners in to the line. Then both crankcase pressure and braking moves the oil forward and into the can. Also when oil plugs a breather line, it might sometimes make the dipstick pop up when pushing harder. Needs a revision and it's in the works.


A shaky(more genuine?) 245 incar because of better sound and a some looks to the gauges, a short drive by and one lap of friends 945 "T6".
https://youtu.be/REtPOnmmX3U


Last fall built and installed the 945 engine, not including the electronics, intercooler and such. This is how it left. It does also have a working AC.
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Old 11-02-2021, 06:42 PM   #159
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Sir, I am soooo glad I decided to research the B6284T engine and find your thread. Between how well you've documented all of this over the years along with the amazing quality of work, I'm searching through the classifieds near me to follow in these footsteps.

Cheers from the Georgia/Florida border.
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Old 11-15-2021, 06:33 PM   #160
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Thanks

It's been again a while since the last update. There have been a couple of different projects and other ways to bide my time. Such as converting a S90(not mine) in to a "T6" with original engine and T6 turbos.




Installed 9kg(~500lbs) front springs in to the -92. Feels much better with the same shock adjustment than old 8kg(~450lbs) springs. Changed basic front pads, Ferodos were done

Bought 245/40/17 Federal RS-Pros for the rear. There are FWD wheels with suitable width but they weigh 1.7-1.8kg more than the (cheap)Tomason TN1 which I chose. Well, it's a track only combo anyway Waiting for the next summer to try them out.

There was some shake coming from the driveline when giving any gas or engine braking. Rear U-joint was the culprit and I made a quick fix by swapping the rear half of the drive shaft before making a ~300mile trip. Should change new rear joints to both halves.

End of last month the clutch pedal felt weird when as I was parking the car at work. Pumping the pedal made it go limp and after work took a look at it. The rod going to the main cylinder was broken and at first I thought that's it. After fixing that I noticed that the rod bracket in the pedal had broken loose. Pipe of the pedal had cracked around the welds so I bent it back and welded again.

Last Saturday did some dyno pulls. Low boost was fine up to around 1.7bar but after that it felt like losing spark. It might show some signs at the end of those pulls too. There was no time to fiddle around so I'll just change the plugs and maybe take a coil or two along for the next try(when that happens). 523.7whp which makes around 602hp with theoretical 15% loss. And that also means a 223hp base engine. Wheel torque was 662.8Nm.



Otherwise I've been just driving the -92 around. Except last couple of weeks which I've been driving a -95 965 that I bought with a cracked oil pan, disassembled interior and both cat and sunroof missing(sold). Bought another sunroof, assembled the interior, etc. Fixed the pan by swapping in the old NA engine and tranny of the -92



965 did and does need some other work too but I'll write about that in the next post.
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Old 11-15-2021, 09:26 PM   #161
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got any more info on that t6 swapped 960? what manifolds did you use?
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Old 11-16-2021, 02:12 PM   #162
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Great work on the t6!

Love to see your updates!

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Old 11-16-2021, 04:19 PM   #163
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got any more info on that t6 swapped 960? what manifolds did you use?
Nothing special. T6 manifolds and modified stock inlet/outlet pipes, waterline outside the block combined from FWD and RWD for fitment, 600x300x76 intercooler and working AC.






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Great work on the t6!

Love to see your updates!

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