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Old 11-01-2021, 01:22 PM   #51
PaddyGarcia
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You are a national treasure, thanks.
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Old 11-02-2021, 12:52 PM   #52
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You are a national treasure, thanks.
Also I just got it in the mail, the four seasons 35611 blower fan works. Not the quietest setup but it works just fine.
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Old 11-02-2021, 01:01 PM   #53
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I'm not sure if it will make a difference in the noise, but the fan motor you are using can be made to turn CW or CCW and the fan blade you bought is for CW motors.
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Old 11-03-2021, 12:21 AM   #54
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I'm not sure if it will make a difference in the noise, but the fan motor you are using can be made to turn CW or CCW and the fan blade you bought is for CW motors.
I've got it running CW right now. Really the noise isn't so bad once you start driving. It is quieter than the engine cruising around town in third at 2000 rpm. Perhaps I was just comparing it to the fan in my modern car.
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Old 11-11-2021, 09:00 PM   #55
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Well, got a prototype of the gauge cluster put together with five gauges, there were clearance issues. It would appear it needs a steeper angle on the sides almost identical to the stock cluster. Which limits me to pretty much one configuration (some variability with the indicators) to fit two 3 3/8" and two 2 1/16" gauges without cutting the dash. It'll be about a centimeter taller when sticking out of the dash. If I want volt and oil pressure gauges I'll just have to put them below the dash in little pods.

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Old 11-12-2021, 01:36 AM   #56
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AutoMeter makes a pair of 3 3/8" diameter gauges that has an electronic speedometer and tachometer in 1 and an oil pressure, volt meter, fuel level and water temperature gauges in the other.

But they ain't cheap!!


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Old 11-12-2021, 11:46 AM   #57
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AutoMeter makes a pair of 3 3/8" diameter gauges that has an electronic speedometer and tachometer in 1 and an oil pressure, volt meter, fuel level and water temperature gauges in the other.

But they ain't cheap!!


I'm already sitting on a set of VDO series 1 gauges (finding the tach was not easy). I don't glance at the oil pressure or volts all that often so putting those somewhere out of direct view wouldn't be too bad.
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Old 11-12-2021, 04:35 PM   #58
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The new design that takes into account the angle on the sides needed to clear without cutting any metal. I had to get rid of one of the gauges. Decided to add two extra indicator light holes. One for the OD light and another for whatever I decide to put in there. Probably an indicator light for fog/driving lights or a brake failure light (I can trivially add the reservoir cap switch for it).


The first prototype with the gauges installed.
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Old 11-12-2021, 06:14 PM   #59
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That is amazing. Did you 3d print it? If so I think a few of us may be asking for the file.
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Old 11-12-2021, 09:42 PM   #60
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That is amazing. Did you 3d print it? If so I think a few of us may be asking for the file.
Yep, that one is 3D printed. I can put up all the CAD files I've been monkeying with if you want. I'll post the results when I have a version that fits nicely.
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Old 11-13-2021, 08:59 PM   #61
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Yep, that one is 3D printed. I can put up all the CAD files I've been monkeying with if you want. I'll post the results when I have a version that fits nicely.
That would be awesome. Thank you!
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Old 11-20-2021, 01:44 PM   #62
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Installed a simple 3rd brake light. The brackets are just some cheap sheet aluminum cut with tin snips and some mounting tape. Need to make better ones. The light is a $10 LED strip designed to mount above a license plate.



Works rather well.



Version 2 of the gauge cluster works rather nicely. Had to ditch the oil pressure gauge. I'll probably just put that in a swivel pod under the dash.



I put it in for a dry fit today. Needs to be a smidge wider at the base to fill in the hole entirely and come forward about 5mm. There is a bit of a gap at the bottom. Clearance for the tach is tight, but that is also the deepest of the gauges. I'll start working on a new dash pad once I get this finalized. No cutting necessary to get this to work.

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Old 11-21-2021, 08:28 AM   #63
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You’ll still have an idiot light for oil pressure right? I assume that’s the red guy. That’d be my only hang up for putting the gauge out of your immediate line of sight. I just used one of the built-in warning lights on mine. Didn’t bother with an amp light.
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Old 11-21-2021, 11:42 AM   #64
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You’ll still have an idiot light for oil pressure right? I assume that’s the red guy. That’d be my only hang up for putting the gauge out of your immediate line of sight. I just used one of the built-in warning lights on mine. Didn’t bother with an amp light.
Yep, the amber one is the idiot light for oil pressure. As far as the others red's the amp light, blue for high beams, green for blinkers (I am contemplating two blinker lights, one for either side), and a red one in the middle for the overdrive. There is an extra hole for another light. Maybe fog lamps? I know if I stick a rear fog lamp on the car (dense fog is common here) then legally I am supposed to have an indicator for it.

I've kept both the amp and oil lights because the volt and oil gauges will be out of sight. An immediate indicator something is wrong so I look at the gauge.

The lights as is are way too bright. So I'll have to figure out a way to dim them a bit. The high beam light is blinding in the dark. Maybe something slightly opaque over the bulb.
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Old 11-21-2021, 11:57 AM   #65
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The speedometer works. Since I wasn't sure where an exact measured mile was I decided to do a bit of math to get the pulses per mile. I am writing it down here so others can replicate this if they want.

I used the speed sender from a 2000-2002 VW MK4 Jetta as it matched the M18x1.5 thread on the J type. I stuck a spare speedometer gear on it and rotated it one revolution and counted the pulses of the square wave on my multimeter. It had four pulses per rotation.

Now comes a bit of conjecture that seemed to work out. The transmission came from a '70 or '71 P1800 with a 4.3:1 rear end. The green books say that the speedometer should be calibrated for 992 revolutions of the speedometer cable per mile. The thing is that this assumes stock 165R15 tires and a 4.3 rear end. I am running 195/65r15s and the amazon's stock 4.10 rear end. So I figured out the proportion of driveshaft revolutions per mile to speedometer revs per mile to be 992/3417.15.

So after doing some math, which is probably a bit off, I got 3312.18 driveshaft revolutions per mile for my car which should then give me 961.53 revolutions per mile from the speedometer cable. The final result was about 3848 pulses per mile. I checked it up to 50mph with a gps speedometer and it seems to read 1-2mph fast, but I am fine with that. Far better than the old speedometer getting to 10-20mph fast at 70mph depending on its mood.

Also I lied a little bit, the faceplate doesn't require cutting, but for the tach to clear I had to trim away some metal behind the cluster, but I consider this acceptable because it is hidden by a dash pad. A lower profile tach would solve this.
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Old 11-21-2021, 08:52 PM   #66
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I think a single indicator for both turn signals would be cool if you moved it to the center of the dash like the factory cluster. Are the bulbs the same as the factory ones?
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Old 11-21-2021, 11:20 PM   #67
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I think a single indicator for both turn signals would be cool if you moved it to the center of the dash like the factory cluster. Are the bulbs the same as the factory ones?
I was thinking of moving the blinker to the center. Seems more symmetric. Then move the OD light I have in the middle to the side.

No, the bulbs and indicator lights are I think Lucas parts from a motorcycle or Jaguar (I know, mark of the beast) but they matched the gauges and such. Takes a 12v 2W BA7 bulb.

edit: The dash lights I got are the same sort used on an MGB.

Last edited by spock345; 11-22-2021 at 10:52 AM..
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Old 11-21-2021, 11:29 PM   #68
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Yep, the amber one is the idiot light for oil pressure. As far as the others red's the amp light, blue for high beams, green for blinkers (I am contemplating two blinker lights, one for either side), and a red one in the middle for the overdrive. There is an extra hole for another light. Maybe fog lamps? I know if I stick a rear fog lamp on the car (dense fog is common here) then legally I am supposed to have an indicator for it.

I've kept both the amp and oil lights because the volt and oil gauges will be out of sight. An immediate indicator something is wrong so I look at the gauge.

The lights as is are way too bright. So I'll have to figure out a way to dim them a bit. The high beam light is blinding in the dark. Maybe something slightly opaque over the bulb.
Why not put the oil pressure gauge in the cluster? And the fuel gauge somewhere else. It seems to me you’d want to monitor the oil pressure regularly , while monitoring the fuel gauge would be an infrequent check.
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Old 11-22-2021, 10:52 AM   #69
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Why not put the oil pressure gauge in the cluster? And the fuel gauge somewhere else. It seems to me you’d want to monitor the oil pressure regularly , while monitoring the fuel gauge would be an infrequent check.
That is a good idea. Reminds me of older Ferrari GT cars that had oil and water temperature up front with everything else to the side. I think the nice thing about having gauges like this is that I can move things around so easily.

Although I'll worry about that once I get a top cover and dash pad made.
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Old 11-22-2021, 07:00 PM   #70
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Thanks for all this foot work! Incidentally, I frequently borrow parts from MK4 VW's as I've owned 3 over the past 20 years, like my seatbelt retrofit.
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Old 11-23-2021, 11:14 AM   #71
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Thanks for all this foot work! Incidentally, I frequently borrow parts from MK4 VW's as I've owned 3 over the past 20 years, like my seatbelt retrofit.
At this point I'll probably be buying a 3d printer and developing replacement parts for this car. A bunch of stuff like bushings for the seatbelt pivots would be nice to just print instead of sifting through spec sheets to find one with the right dimensions.
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