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Old 09-14-2021, 03:31 PM   #26
John242Ti
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No prob. Yeah, the B230 alternators are backward, compared to the earlier B21/23 alternators. One exception being the B23FT engine, which uses a similar setup to what's shown here, but with a shorter bushing holder that has a spacer between it and the block. Uses a longer bolt.

Heh, some of the bracketry is MIA... Currently, the lines are zip tied to the bracket on the exhaust side of the head...
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Old 09-14-2021, 06:05 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by DitosRadWheels View Post
I appreciate your guysí input, Iíll probably go with a Denso alternator! When searching by application, only Bosch is coming up. Is there a go-to Denso model or part number for me to search? Also, is that adjustment bracket a part I can buy new online or a pick n pull find?
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Did you see this which hiperfauto posted?

I also recommend this upgrade.
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Probably quickest to just grab it off a car at the yard...

With respect to the alternator, yeah, get it from philski...

I also have a good stash of tested and confirmed working Denso 100 amp alternators.

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Old 10-04-2021, 12:55 AM   #28
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I’ve had to take a break from fixing this baby up for the past month… doctor’s orders after a hernia repair surgery.

Today was the first day I’ve done anything to it since before my surgery at the beginning of September. I didn’t do much, just installed the new polyurethane alternator bushings. The old rubber bushings were shot and pretty easy to remove. No special tools required. But the new bushings required some finesse and I’m pretty proud of the way I Macgyver’d them in without putting too much strain on my still recovering body. It turns out you don’t need a special tool to install new bushings; all you need is a 27mm socket, a large flat washer, and some channellock pliers Took me all of 15 minutes!
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Old 10-05-2021, 01:42 AM   #29
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Default timing belt confusion

Today I came to a crossroads. Iím installing a Gates Racing Kevlar timing belt on the B21FT and something seems to not be quite right.

The marks are lined up on the cam gear and intermediate shaft gear, but when pulling the belt taught around the crank gear it seems to be half a tooth off.

If I back it up half a tooth so it sets in the grooves of the gear, it seems to have too much slack going back to the intermediate shaft gear. But I am unable to pull it tight enough to make it half a tooth further to line up in the grooves of the crank gear.

Iím still racking my brain as the marks are lined up properly on the cam and intermediate shaft gears. Is it okay for me to give it that half tooth of slack? Or can someone point out what I may be doing wrong?
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Old 10-05-2021, 04:51 PM   #30
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Does that belt have marks on it? If so just line those up and set the tensioner. Once it's set it will pull any slack out.

If not get it on and tensioned and rotate the crank around twice, if it still lines up at the marks your good.
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Old 10-05-2021, 06:51 PM   #31
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It looks that you are trying to put a round tooth belt on square tooth pulleys?

Is that so? If yes...

Do not pass go
Do not collect $200
Go directly to Jail

If not, that belt looks pretty frayed and probably should be retired.
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Old 10-05-2021, 11:00 PM   #32
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FCP has different part numbers for that belt, 93+ was round tooth. 76-92 was square tooth. There isnt a b21/23 round tooth crank gear, so you'll need the square tooth belt.

You can switch to round tooth on a B21/23...but I dont know who makes/sells the right crank gear. Here's one I have on my B23, it uses a seperate woodruff key.



I start by wrapping the belt around the crank gear, then up to the intermediate shaft, then the cam. Its usually snug around that side, with slack on the far side of the cam gear, where the belt has to slide over the tensioner pulley. I've never started on the top and tried doing the crank last.
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Old 10-06-2021, 12:00 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
It looks that you are trying to put a round tooth belt on square tooth pulleys?

Is that so? If yes...

Do not pass go
Do not collect $200
Go directly to Jail

If not, that belt looks pretty frayed and probably should be retired.
Definitely not, I may be a noob but Iím not stupid haha. Itís definitely a square tooth belt, though I can see how it does almost look like a round tooth. When itís set on the gears it fits quite nicely. Itís a brand new belt, the fray I think it just from how it was cut ó itís Kevlar, not rubber, so itís a little more fiber-y
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Old 10-06-2021, 12:02 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James M View Post
Does that belt have marks on it? If so just line those up and set the tensioner. Once it's set it will pull any slack out.

If not get it on and tensioned and rotate the crank around twice, if it still lines up at the marks your good.
The belt does have marks on it. I started with making sure the mark lined up with the notch on the timing gear, then made sure the 2nd mark lined up with the notch on the aux shaft gear at the 3 oíclock position. My struggle was getting it around the crank gear after putting it in the proper place on the first two
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Old 10-06-2021, 12:12 AM   #35
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Default timing belt update

So I was able to figure out the timing belt situation today.

Basically, as I did yesterday, I made sure the marks on the belt lined up properly with the marks on the cam and aux gears. What I did today that made it go around the crank gear properly was removed the belt tensioner from its seated position against the front of the engine. With it pulled out a little bit so the tensioner pulley could move as far toward the exhaust side as possible, it gave the belt just enough slack to fit around the crank gear. It sat tight, and then I wiggled the tensioner back into place and released the spring.

It’s funny how you can run into a problem and then just sleep on it and go straight through it the next day. The belt is now properly installed, with the marks lined up as they should be and teeth seated perfectly in the grooves of the the gears. I did install a new Volvo tensioner and spring as well. With the timing gear and auxiliary shaft gears lined up with their marks, I placed the timing cover over and found the notch on the crank pulley lines up perfectly with the 0į mark on the timing cover. Presto!

Now it’s timing to tackle the next issue of my new water pump studs being too long…
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Last edited by TheVolbro; 10-06-2021 at 12:24 AM..
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Old 10-06-2021, 01:18 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
I start by wrapping the belt around the crank gear, then up to the intermediate shaft, then the cam. Its usually snug around that side, with slack on the far side of the cam gear, where the belt has to slide over the tensioner pulley. I've never started on the top and tried doing the crank last.
I ended up pretty much doing this except in a different order, but I did fit it around the tensioner pulley last which seemed to be the key.

Perhaps you might know, is it a big task to convert the early style 2 piece crank pulley to the later one piece? I had a hell of a time trying to remove it since my IPD crank pulley holder only works with the 1985 and onward crankshaft pulleys. The earlier 2 piece pulleys are slotted differently and Iíd like to maybe convert my B21FT cars to the later style for ease of future removal. I tried googling and looking through the forum but wasnít able to locate any info talking about the conversion. I donít even know if thatís something people do, just figured Iíd ask
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Old 10-06-2021, 05:27 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
There isnt a b21/23 round tooth crank gear, so you'll need the square tooth belt.
Ah but there is. The R-Sport 16 valve engine, which is based on a B19 came with a round tooth belt although it's the narrow 8 valve belt width.

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/...eCrankGear.jpg



Quote:
You can switch to round tooth on a B21/23...but I dont know who makes/sells the right crank gear.
KL racing sells round tooth B21 crank gears for both 8 valve and 16 valve belt widths.

https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...-8v-bredd.html

https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar...16v-bredd.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by DitosRadWheels View Post
Perhaps you might know, is it a big task to convert the early style 2 piece crank pulley to the later one piece? I had a hell of a time trying to remove it since my IPD crank pulley holder only works with the 1985 and onward crankshaft pulleys. The earlier 2 piece pulleys are slotted differently and Iíd like to maybe convert my B21FT cars to the later style for ease of future removal. I tried googling and looking through the forum but wasnít able to locate any info talking about the conversion. I donít even know if thatís something people do, just figured Iíd ask
The diameter of the crank snout is slightly different between B21 and B230. It's not going to be a simple conversion.

FYI, there's a special tool for holding the crank hub. It also works for the cam and I/S gears. I have a spare if you'd like to buy one.

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/...ool9995034.jpg

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Old 10-06-2021, 07:31 PM   #38
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If you don't plan on changing the belt hub very often, you can make a TBcheap B21FT crank holder with a scrap of 3/4" plywood and a 2 1/8" hole saw (standard for house door locksets). Just bolt it down firmly before cranking:
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Old 10-07-2021, 07:49 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
FYI, there's a special tool for holding the crank hub. It also works for the cam and I/S gears. I have a spare if you'd like to buy one.

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/...ool9995034.jpg

I am interested in that tool. Just want to make sure, it fits over the 2 piece crank hub that has the 2 studs sticking out of it for the outer portion to bolt to? My crank pulley looks different from the photo you posted
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Old 10-07-2021, 07:51 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
If you don't plan on changing the belt hub very often, you can make a TBcheap B21FT crank holder with a scrap of 3/4" plywood and a 2 1/8" hole saw (standard for house door locksets). Just bolt it down firmly before cranking:
Itís not that I intend to be changing it often, but I have one other B21FT 240 that Iíll need to do the same thing to, and since I love collecting/rescuing the 4 eye turbo cars I imagine there will be more in the future; provided their CIS systems donít piss me off to the point I just stick with the trusty grandpa series
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Old 10-07-2021, 08:19 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DitosRadWheels View Post
I am interested in that tool. Just want to make sure, it fits over the 2 piece crank hub that has the 2 studs sticking out of it for the outer portion to bolt to? My crank pulley looks different from the photo you posted
Once you remove the pulleys you'll see the hub that's in the pic. The 2 studs have been removed.
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Old 10-10-2021, 04:59 AM   #42
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Mocking up the fitment for the new Do88 high capacity radiator and intercooler

A little more work needs to be done for them to fit properly and clear the hood. Also gave it a fresh tune up
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Old 10-21-2021, 10:09 AM   #43
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I owned that car ten years ago. Glad itís going to get restored. Post pics of your Group A car too.
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Old 11-08-2021, 04:14 AM   #44
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I owned that car ten years ago. Glad it’s going to get restored. Post pics of your Group A car too.
That’s awesome! I’m stoked it’s been in the hands of the TB community for so long. Joe told me he was very excited about it the day he drove it home. That was the last time it was on the road. I’m excited to revive it and enjoy it.

I’d love to chat about your time with the car. How long did you have it for before you sold it?

I’ll start a separate thread to catalog my progress on the Group A 242 once I start working on it. But for now here are a couple of pictures of it as I acquired it. It’s got a ways to go to get back to its former glory, and I’m tossing around the idea of doing a true Group A tribute build on it
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Old 11-08-2021, 04:37 AM   #45
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Default the perfect pair

My blue metallic (200-2) 1987 760 Turbo wagon was my first Volvo. Equipped with black leather interior and every luxury option Volvo offered at the time. I got it almost 4 years ago and it quickly became my favorite car I’ve ever owned. I installed a lot of performance or “upgrade” parts so it would not only be reliable, but also so it could hold its own participating in rallies and driving events.

In the summer of 2020, I decided I wanted a 2 door turbo Volvo. I prefer the look of the four eye front end and wanted the best of the best, so I set out to find a late 1984 factory intercooled 242 Turbo. I searched high and low, passing on a number of cars because there was too much rust damage or they were too modified (I wanted something unmolested so there weren’t any surprises when I got into modifying it non-invasively to suit my driving needs). After about a year, fellow TB member Roy reached out to put me in touch with the owner of the car this thread is for.

Imagine my excitement when I found out it was the same 200-2 blue metallic paint code as my 760 Turbo wagon, and it has black leather interior with all the luxury options… on a 240, that means power windows, power mirrors, air conditioning, cruise control, and even Turbo Plus!

These two cars are 3 model years apart but are the perfect pair and after having them together can’t see myself ever splitting them up
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Old 11-08-2021, 04:50 AM   #46
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After removing the frozen calipers and dealing with multiple rounded off flare nuts on the hard lines, all four corners now have fresh calipers with ceramic pads, Brembo vented rotors, and IPD stainless steel brake lines
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Old Today, 05:43 AM   #47
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Iím really bad at updating this thread lol. Got all the plumbing sorted out and filled Ďer up with oil and coolant and for the first time in 11 years SHE RUNS UNDER HER OWN POWER!!!

Suspension coming next:

Kaplhenke adjustable panhard bar w/spherical bushings
Kaplhenke adjustable torque rods w/spherical bushings
Kaplhenke adjustable sway bar links w/spherical bushings
IPD front and rear sway bars
IPD lower chassis braces
IPD upper strut reinforcement plates
Lesjofors 30mm lowering coil springs
Koni yellow adjustable sport struts/shocks
Polyurethane control arm bushings and trailing arm bushings
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Old Today, 01:04 PM   #48
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I went the same route my IC pipes. Did you use a paint stripper to take of the factor black paint? I also used some metal polish to make those pipes shine!
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