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Old 08-11-2021, 08:35 AM   #51
intothelabyrinth
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With this info the next step is pull the head and inspect the cylinders? Should I just resign to a full rebuild and be done with it?
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Old 08-11-2021, 11:39 AM   #52
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With this info the next step is pull the head and inspect the cylinders? Should I just resign to a full rebuild and be done with it?
I'd yank the head and see how it looks before ordering all the parts and pulling the motor for a rebuild.

Also this

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=361479
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Old 08-11-2021, 12:15 PM   #53
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Do a wet compression test first, it could be leaky valves.
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Old 08-11-2021, 12:20 PM   #54
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Do a wet compression test first, it could be leaky valves.
I put the wet numbers up too. There was not much of a change.
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Old 08-11-2021, 12:31 PM   #55
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Oops, missed that. That's actually pretty good news.

Could be that someone stuck a thick HG on it to handle low octane gas, or it's just got some leaky valves.

Yeah, time to pull the head.
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Old 08-11-2021, 12:37 PM   #56
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Head is coming off, and I'll post up some pics of what I find. I appreciate you guys walking me through this, I truly need a mentor. This is my first time messing with any of the old pushrod carbed motors, so this is a learning experience for me.
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Old 08-12-2021, 03:00 PM   #57
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I've about got the head off, and today I called around to see what it'll cost me to have the exhaust seats put in and a valve job done. I had one place quote me "$400-500" and another "about $200." Most places didn't want to fool with it, one said "I don't do any foreign stuff." lol I live in Kentucky, and the guy I found to work on it definitely sounds like a good ole boy. I asked him if he was scared of doing a volvo head, and he laughed. He said he's done stuff all the way back to 1942 so it shouldn't be a problem.

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Old 08-12-2021, 09:35 PM   #58
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Volvo B30 head off https://imgur.com/gallery/cMbNlkL

The cylinders don't even have a ridge at all. Everything looks pretty good to me. Coolant passages all clean, nothing gnarly that stands out anyway.
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Old 08-12-2021, 10:10 PM   #59
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Volvo B30 head off https://imgur.com/gallery/cMbNlkL

The cylinders don't even have a ridge at all. Everything looks pretty good to me. Coolant passages all clean, nothing gnarly that stands out anyway.
If you pluck the lifters out and look at the cam lobes any flat ones will be pretty obvious. Cross hatching still in the bores? It looks like its in rather good shape.

I wouldn't buy any BS from a shop not wanting to do a basic valve job on a B30 head. They are pretty standard cast iron OHV setups. It isn't like its some exotic Alfa Romeo dual cam sort of thing.
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Old 08-12-2021, 11:02 PM   #60
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They just didn't wanna **** with it I guess. I got a shop willing to do the seats and valve job for about $200.
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Old 08-17-2021, 11:02 AM   #61
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b30 cam removal
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Old 08-17-2021, 11:19 AM   #62
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Destroked cam lobes for higher RPM!!!

Lol.

The story I've heard is that there was a large glut of substandard B18/20/30 lifters that clogged up the Volvo supply chain for a long time. How true? I don't know, but it's one of the few weak points on the motor design. In close formation with the fiber timing gears.

You could try a set of SBC lifters and longer pushrods, or just another set of Volvo lifters. Use the cam break-in paste, follow the quirky cam break-in guidelines, and use oil with more zinc/ZDDP.
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Old 08-17-2021, 12:14 PM   #63
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The old lifters came out the top without much fuss. I couldn't tell that they were worn at all... I got the "K" cam with lifters included from VP Auto, and I was just going to reuse the pushrods. What cam break in paste are you referencing? I've read about the cam break in and it's something like don't idle it, run it between 2,000 - 2,500 RPM for like 20 min, then immediately change the oil? The oil pan gasket has basically disintegrated under the front plate. Idk what I should do there... Kind of a pain to drop the pan with the engine in situ, but if I did I could renew the pan gasket, and the oil pump o-rings while I was at it.
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Old 08-17-2021, 12:29 PM   #64
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Molybdenum disulfide grease - a lot of cam manufacturers will supply a little packet of it with a new cam.
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Old 08-17-2021, 12:47 PM   #65
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VP has "Engine assembly lube with Moly-graphite" on the same page with their cams. Sta-lube brand.
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Old 08-17-2021, 12:50 PM   #66
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I think I'll just try to put the timing cover back on with some grey RTV at the pan side, and then get the engine started, see how it goes. If it leaks, I'll try pulling the pan and doing the sump gasket and oil pump o-rings.
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Old 08-17-2021, 01:03 PM   #67
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Get a piece of gasket material that's similar in thickness to what came off and use the timing cover as a template to make a patch. Then you only need a small amount of silicone to seal the junctions and won't risk plugging the oil pump pickup screen.
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Old 08-19-2021, 03:00 PM   #68
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Should I be replacing the valve springs?
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Old 08-19-2021, 03:02 PM   #69
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Only if you plan in zinging it to some high revs. If you're just doing normal stuff with it, no real need to replace the valve springs.
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Old 08-19-2021, 03:28 PM   #70
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The machine shop should check the springs for proper seat pressure. It's common for them to add a shim under the spring when reusing old springs.

That said, it's less than $60 for a set of new springs.

https://vp-autoparts.com/en/artiklar...it-b30e_f.html
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Old 08-20-2021, 09:24 AM   #71
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Yeah I know, I'm definitely not afraid of spending a little money on this car, but I also am trying to do it the most economical way possible. I gotta remember it's a 50 year old car with a big ass dent in it. lol I just wanna keep it on the road and cruise around town in it.
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Old 08-20-2021, 09:35 AM   #72
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I got most my parts in from VP, still gotta make another order for the couple things I forgot. Doh! But I can at least drop the head off at the machine shop today with the new valve stem seals and exhaust seats. By the time I get it back I'll have the rest of the stuff I need to put it all back together. VP did not supply any break in instructions for the cam.
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Old 08-20-2021, 09:40 AM   #73
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I've always suspected that cam break in instructions were a bit bunk since the factory probably didn't break in engines like that. Or did they?

Either way, since they're a touchy spot on the B18/20/30 design, doesn't hurt to caress the rabbit foot and do the break-in routine.

I've certainly had my share of flat cam lobes over the years on various pushrod engines. Nothing since I started using the added ZDDP, but then I've cracked a couple of pistons. Likely from revving stock parts too high.
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Old 08-20-2021, 04:06 PM   #74
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I've certainly had my share of flat cam lobes over the years on various pushrod engines. Nothing since I started using the added ZDDP, but then I've cracked a couple of pistons. Likely from revving stock parts too high.
Same here. So for me its become the thing with all the flat tappet stuff. From the Austin Healeys, MG's, and Triumphs that I work on, to the SBC's that I get every now an then. 2-3k for 30 minutes constant oscillation, with burp funnel on the rad and timing light hooked up, 2 people makes life easier. Get all the things set how they should before firing, and prime the oil system. Then when thats done, torque all the head studs/bolts, and recheck lash, timing, oil levels. Let it cool (overnight if possible) and run it again. Usually at this point, I'd go as far as changing the filter, cut it open, and if its clean, run it for 500 miles, then cut another filter open at 1000 and change out the break in for whatever flavor high ZDDP you want.
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Old 08-23-2021, 02:17 PM   #75
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I have valvoline racing oil, high zinc 20w50 in there, is that going to work for breaking it in?
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