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Old 11-02-2021, 02:57 PM   #26
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I've had ezk computer failure. When it happened I had no signal to the amplifier, known good crank speed sensor, and I verified the wiring. I swapped the ezk with one from another car and that was the problem.
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Old 11-03-2021, 12:54 AM   #27
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Confirm SIGNAL and POWER to the EZK during cranking. You have confirmed the EZK GROUND is good (OBD blinks).

Fire an EZK box at it.
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Old 11-03-2021, 12:53 PM   #28
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I guess this wasn't totally clear, but I already tried a different EZK. This past weekend I picked up a good EK out of a running 1993 245 and swapped it into my car. No change. I also swapped my 561 ECU to the 951 ECU out of the same 1993 245 because they came as a package deal.

I didn't get a chance to perform the aforementioned tests yesterday but I should be able to do them today.
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Old 11-03-2021, 02:20 PM   #29
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Confirm SIGNAL and POWER to the EZK during cranking. You have confirmed the EZK GROUND is good (OBD blinks).

.
Well?
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Old 11-03-2021, 02:38 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TriaxialBulls View Post
It was intermittent for a couple weeks but now it won't start at all.
Most likely the wiring.
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Old 11-03-2021, 07:50 PM   #31
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Alright gang I finally had some time to test some stuff.

I took the EZK out of its box and plugged it in (as suggested). Tested pins 5 & 6 for voltage both with they key on and while cranking; both had 12V under all circumstances. Also tested pin 20, which did not have 12V under any circumstances. So everything checks out there.

How can I test for the CPS signal at the pins in the EZK? I know it comes in to pins 10 & 23 but I'm not sure how to test it. I ordered a scope that should be here tomorrow or Friday so I can use that to try and diagnose this further.

At this point I'm convinced it has to be something with the CPS signal (even though it's a brand new unit, the on-board diagnostics indicate that it's fine, and passes the resistance test at the EZK connector). If I have time tomorrow I'm going to take the bellhousing cover off to check out the condition of the tone ring. In the meantime, I'm willing to try pretty much anything, so please chime in with any suggestions.
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Old 11-03-2021, 09:46 PM   #32
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Quote:
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No codes. 1-1-1. I also ran the procedure for the on-board diagnostics to test the crank position sensor and it said that it was good, although I'm not 100% convinced based off of that alone.
Just to confirm, you ran the ECU/EZK Diagnostic Test Mode 2 (System Sensor Signal Tests) from here:
https://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/E...agnosticCodesi
and this step passed
Quote:
Remove the ignition coil center lead and crank the starter motor; the engine will not start but it will turn over. The LED should go out, then flash 1-4-1 for the RPM sensor. If no code is flashed and the lamp keeps flashing, the RPM sensor is faulty. Reinstall the coil lead and turn the ignition key ON to KPII
Correct? If so, the EZK is correctly detecting the RPM sensor and should be firing the spark output to the Ignition Module. Have you checked for +12v (or so) during cranking on both the coil and the ignition module?
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Old 11-03-2021, 09:52 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
Just to confirm, you ran the ECU/EZK Diagnostic Test Mode 2 (System Sensor Signal Tests) from here:
https://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/E...agnosticCodesi
and this step passed


Correct? If so, the EZK is correctly detecting the RPM sensor and should be firing the spark output to the Ignition Module. Have you checked for +12v (or so) during cranking on both the coil and the ignition module?
Yes to all. I've run the CPS diagnostic probably 10 times now and it tests good every time. I've checked for voltage at both ends of the coil and the pins on the powerstage both with the key on and while cranking and everything checks out fine.
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Old 11-03-2021, 10:23 PM   #34
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How about the ground wire at the ignition module? Do you see +12v when measuring across pins 4 & 2 at the module (key on) or alternately, ~0 ohms pin 2 to battery - post (key off)?
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Old 11-04-2021, 12:06 AM   #35
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Try a different crank sensor.
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Old 11-04-2021, 03:50 PM   #36
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Just crush it, either that or get a more zen like approach to diagnosing your issue. It's something simple. Nothing to get in a tizzy about.
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Old 11-04-2021, 06:35 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
How about the ground wire at the ignition module? Do you see +12v when measuring across pins 4 & 2 at the module (key on) or alternately, ~0 ohms pin 2 to battery - post (key off)?
I know that the ground wire (pin 2) on the powerstage connector has ground. The pin has continuity with the manifold ground and the negative battery terminal. And I know that there is 12V between pin 4 and ground (using pin 2 as the ground).

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Try a different crank sensor.
I installed a brand new Bougicord sensor that passes the resistance test at the EZK connector and the on-board diagnostics. But honestly I might try a different one anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by intothelabyrinth View Post
Just crush it, either that or get a more zen like approach to diagnosing your issue. It's something simple. Nothing to get in a tizzy about.
People keep saying this, but I have done literally every 'simple' thing possible along with plenty of stuff I would not really consider 'simple'. In my 12 years of working on cars this is the hardest diagnosis I can remember in a long time.

And if your primary mode of transportation was not working for 3+ weeks for seemingly no reason, forcing you to ride your motorcycle in 30-40 degree temperatures, you'd be in a 'tizzy' as well. So if you don't want to actually contribute to the technical discussion about the issue, please keep the commentary to yourself.
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Old 11-04-2021, 08:02 PM   #38
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Here's some unofficial diagnostics to check the wiring at the ignition module (power amplifier). I just measured these on my working LH2.4.

Unplug the connector from the ignition module, and then measure at the pins of the connector with the key in run position (just touch the meter probes lightly to the connector pins, don't shove them into the connector and destroy the pins).

Measure voltage from the battery ground post to each connector pin:
- pin 1 (coil) ~11.7v (or whatever your battery is at)
- pin 2 (ground) 0.02v (slightly above ground due to wiring losses)
- pin 3 (shield) ~0.02v
- pin 4 (power) ~11.7v (or whatever your battery is at)
- pin 5 (EZK spark signal) 0.23v
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Old 11-04-2021, 09:56 PM   #39
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A test lamp should be used to confirm your power and ground circuits are intact. NOT a meter. One strand of wire can show as 12V on a meter or close to 0 ohms resistance, but the circuit will not operate.

Since the OBD 2 blinks out EZK codes, that tells me you have good power and ground to the EZK. At least during KOEO (Key On, Engine Off).

You have checked resistance on the crank sensor wiring tip-to-tip and you have reported close to ZERO ohms. OK. They aren't OPEN is all that really tells you.

It was mentioned here a couple times to inspect the crank sensor wiring terminals on the body harness side. Terminals get pushed back or have bad tension and it may get overlooked. I use the correct terminal test probe, or an old male terminal from a spare/dead component and make a terminal test tool. You can drag it in and out of the female terminal and FEEL for a loose terminal.

You have not confirmed good signal INTO the EZK when the issue is present. Don't put much faith in that OBD self test. You could try a meter on AC voltage and see what you get. I am interested to see what you get with the scope.
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Old 11-04-2021, 10:16 PM   #40
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Quote:
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A test lamp should be used to confirm your power and ground circuits are intact. NOT a meter. One strand of wire can show as 12V on a meter or close to 0 ohms resistance, but the circuit will not operate.

Since the OBD 2 blinks out EZK codes, that tells me you have good power and ground to the EZK. At least during KOEO (Key On, Engine Off).

You have checked resistance on the crank sensor wiring tip-to-tip and you have reported close to ZERO ohms. OK. They aren't OPEN is all that really tells you.

It was mentioned here a couple times to inspect the crank sensor wiring terminals on the body harness side. Terminals get pushed back or have bad tension and it may get overlooked. I use the correct terminal test probe, or an old male terminal from a spare/dead component and make a terminal test tool. You can drag it in and out of the female terminal and FEEL for a loose terminal.

You have not confirmed good signal INTO the EZK when the issue is present. Don't put much faith in that OBD self test. You could try a meter on AC voltage and see what you get. I am interested to see what you get with the scope.
Just to be clear, I am checking for resistance at the EZK's connector between pins 10 and 23 (the two for the crank sensor) and I'm getting 170 ohms. According to cleanflametrap this is right on the money. So I'm fairly certain that the wiring from the crank sensor to the EZK is good. It all passes a continuity test also.

I have to find time to figure out how to use this scope, which I probably won't until this weekend. In the meantime I'll try using my DMM on AC mode between pins 10 and 23 while cranking and see if it generates anything. If so, that would tell me that there's definitely SOME kind of signal going into the EZK.

Thanks everyone for all your help. I am a mechanical Mercedes diesel guy by nature so all of this stuff is way outside my wheelhouse.
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Old 11-04-2021, 10:50 PM   #41
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I mainly use my Fluke 87V meter for measuring the current draw during a parasitic drain test at the battery. However, to quickly confirm power AND ground at a component, I unplug the connector to the component and BACKPROBE between power and ground, key on. Lamp on and bright= good.

I got bit one time recently where I had my meter handy and confirmed 12v on a window motor circuit and I replaced the motor. I wasn't happy when it didn't fix the problem. There was corrosion inside the wiring harness connector in the door jab. It showed a healthy 12v on a meter, but wouldn't illuminate a test lamp at all.

I sent you a PM offering help.
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Old 11-05-2021, 06:48 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by TriaxialBulls View Post
J...
I have to find time to figure out how to use this scope, which I probably won't until this weekend. In the meantime I'll try using my DMM on AC mode between pins 10 and 23 while cranking and see if it generates anything. If so, that would tell me that there's definitely SOME kind of signal going into the EZK...
It isn't clear on the schematics, but pin 10 is grounded inside the EZK board, so the only thing you need to probe with your scope (or meter) is pin 23. IOW the input is single-ended; you don't need to learn how to look at differential signals with the scope.

Keep the battery charged, though I believe I've seen this EZK function down to 8V while cranking. I doubt you need that advice though with Diesel experience.

Your mention of some EZK input inhibiting the output on pin 16 has me less than sure. I've never heard of it, but at the same time, I haven't tested for it. Bosch design seems to account for default fail behavior leaving the car functioning for safety where it can be. It has me thinking I could take one of our running cars and see how many pins I can remove from the EZK connector and still get spark.

Wild imagination: Could the CPS have been built unmagnetized or missing a core? Could it not be fully into the bracket, somehow leaving a large gap to the tone ring? Could this car have a damaged tone ring and you're fighting the previous owner's defeat?

Also, you can check with your LED test light at pin 17 for the RPM signal to the fuel ECU, just like the signal at pin 16.
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Old 11-05-2021, 12:09 PM   #43
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Dam buddies 940 he had it towed out here for the second time. I replaced everything, I mean everything I thought needed to be replaced to make it run.. Welp it was cap and rotor.....


ONly to0k a couple days also adjusted the valves, now he says it runs better then it ever has. Course he didn't pay me for anything and even got a free brand new crank sensor out of the deal. So over being expert on anything, over it. Should I go get my clot shot and say by-by?

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Old 11-05-2021, 12:29 PM   #44
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Yeah you should sbabbs. It's not going to end the pain though, lol. I don't know why I'm here, but I do hope the OP gets his car running. I'm kinda invested in knowing what the issue ends up being, sounds like a head scratcher. I like the idea of the crank sensor bracket being damaged, could have happened on your install, or the tone ring on the flex plate being damaged. Interesting it would pass the OBD test though. I would also not discount any of your new parts being bad out of the box. Super annoying I know. The last time I had an intermittent no spark that got worse over time it was the ignition amplifier for what that's worth. Might be a good idea to swap one in you know is working from a running car.
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Old 11-05-2021, 02:20 PM   #45
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I suggested checking the voltages at the power stage connector to help verify that you don't have a shorted or broken wire. The main one to check is the pin 5 voltage (EZK spark signal) of 0.23v. If this is 0.0volts, or ~12volts, it points to a EZK to power stage wiring problem. The other one to check is pin 1 (coil). If this isn't battery voltage, then the power stage-to-coil wire is suspect. The remaining 3 voltages are just a double check of previous measurements.

When you tested pin 5 with a test lamp, and saw nothing, were you using a LED test lamp or an incandescent (flashlight bulb) test lamp? An incandescent may be too slow to respond to easily see the ~5 millisecond 5volt dwell pulses. You can also test the EZK end of pin 5 - it's EZK pin 16.
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Old 11-05-2021, 04:05 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
I mainly use my Fluke 87V meter for measuring the current draw during a parasitic drain test at the battery. However, to quickly confirm power AND ground at a component, I unplug the connector to the component and BACKPROBE between power and ground, key on. Lamp on and bright= good.

I got bit one time recently where I had my meter handy and confirmed 12v on a window motor circuit and I replaced the motor. I wasn't happy when it didn't fix the problem. There was corrosion inside the wiring harness connector in the door jab. It showed a healthy 12v on a meter, but wouldn't illuminate a test lamp at all.

I sent you a PM offering help.
Got your PM. This is all good advice, but I personally don't suspect a wiring issue on my car. All of the wiring and insulation looks absolutely mint. Every connector I've pulled off has looked absolutely mint; this car was owned by a Volvo enthusiast for the last 8 years and he used a dab of dielectric grease on just about all of them. And every single piece of wiring that I've tested (which is basically every single one involved in the ignition system at this point) has tested good. I'm not ruling out a wiring issue entirely but none of the factors or test results point to that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cleanflametrap View Post
It isn't clear on the schematics, but pin 10 is grounded inside the EZK board, so the only thing you need to probe with your scope (or meter) is pin 23. IOW the input is single-ended; you don't need to learn how to look at differential signals with the scope.

Keep the battery charged, though I believe I've seen this EZK function down to 8V while cranking. I doubt you need that advice though with Diesel experience.

Your mention of some EZK input inhibiting the output on pin 16 has me less than sure. I've never heard of it, but at the same time, I haven't tested for it. Bosch design seems to account for default fail behavior leaving the car functioning for safety where it can be. It has me thinking I could take one of our running cars and see how many pins I can remove from the EZK connector and still get spark.

Wild imagination: Could the CPS have been built unmagnetized or missing a core? Could it not be fully into the bracket, somehow leaving a large gap to the tone ring? Could this car have a damaged tone ring and you're fighting the previous owner's defeat?

Also, you can check with your LED test light at pin 17 for the RPM signal to the fuel ECU, just like the signal at pin 16.
My thinking (and I have zero experience with these LH-jet systems to take it with a grain of salt) is that something like the coolant sensor, MAF sensor, knock sensor, or TPS (all of which give input directly to the EZK) giving an extremely erroneous reading could be making the EZK go 'hold on, we shouldn't be sending out spark pulses if the temps are THAT high' or something like that.

I ordered another CPS yesterday that should be here tomorrow so I'm going to throw that in and see if it does anything. If it doesn't, I can always return it and get my money back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
I suggested checking the voltages at the power stage connector to help verify that you don't have a shorted or broken wire. The main one to check is the pin 5 voltage (EZK spark signal) of 0.23v. If this is 0.0volts, or ~12volts, it points to a EZK to power stage wiring problem. The other one to check is pin 1 (coil). If this isn't battery voltage, then the power stage-to-coil wire is suspect. The remaining 3 voltages are just a double check of previous measurements.

When you tested pin 5 with a test lamp, and saw nothing, were you using a LED test lamp or an incandescent (flashlight bulb) test lamp? An incandescent may be too slow to respond to easily see the ~5 millisecond 5volt dwell pulses. You can also test the EZK end of pin 5 - it's EZK pin 16.
It's actually interesting you say that because that's like exactly what voltage I have on pin 5. I don't remember the exact number but it was right around .23V nominally. I have been using an LED test lamp this entire time (I don't even own an incandescent one anymore).
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Old 11-05-2021, 06:31 PM   #47
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check to be sure the wiring connection by the coil is good, should be a 2 pole rubber bullet with Blue and Red/White from the body to the FI harness
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Old 11-05-2021, 07:02 PM   #48
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check to be sure the wiring connection by the coil is good, should be a 2 pole rubber bullet with Blue and Red/White from the body to the FI harness
Yep, I've checked it about 5 times at this point. I know I have a strong 12V to both sides of the coil with the key on and cranking as well.

I conducted a couple more quick tests today. First of all I tried taking the CPS out and then running the EZK's on-board diagnostics on it. But I got no response when I cranked the engine; just a flashing light. So that tells me that the EZK is receiving SOME kind of signal from the sensor.

Next I removed the inspection covers from the bellhousing and took a look at the tone ring. Everything looked totally normal there.

I continue to be baffled by this issue.
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Old 11-05-2021, 07:22 PM   #49
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Wow, you have quite the puzzle. Everything you've tested seems good, but there's still no spark. Hopefully, your new scope will help significantly with the diagnosis -- what sort of scope did you get and is there someone around who can help you learn the basics?

Most scopes have a square wave Calibration output - often 1kHz at a volt or 2. To learn how to use the scope, you can sit in front of the TV, connect the probe to the cal output and play around with the settings. Figure out how to adjust voltage (vertical scaling), timebase (horizontal scaling), and finally triggering. For the triggering, set a level at say 70% of the max waveform voltage, disconnect the probe, change to Norm[al] mode, and reconnect the probe. If you've got it setup correctly, it will trigger once each time you reconnect the probe and you should see a flatline followed by the cal square wave. Switch to SingleShot mode, and it should do the same thing, but only once and then hold the waveform.

----------------------

My summary and interpretation of your testing is:
- "It was intermittent for a couple weeks but now it won't start at all."
Once it started, was it completely fine? or did it ever stutter?

- "No codes. 1-1-1."

- "I've run the CPS diagnostic probably 10 times now and it tests good every time. [flashes 1-4-1 after cranking]"
To me, this means that you have power to the EZK both during and after cranking. The passing code means that the EZK is detecting something from the CPS. I'd hope that it's a fully good CPS signal that it's detecting, but this isn't a given.

- "I've checked for voltage at both ends of the coil and the pins on the powerstage both with the key on and while cranking and everything checks out fine. <...> 0.23v on pin 5"
Seems like your EZK to powerstage wiring is fine, plus powerstage power/ground and wiring to coil.

- "I then tested [with a LED test lamp] between pin #5 on the powerstage connector and ground. And also got nothing there."
Sure seems like you should have spark....

As far as I know, there's nothing in the EZK that would disable spark assuming the CPS signal is good. I'm curious, and I have the setup, so I'll try playing with a weak CPS signal to see when the EZK drops out, and if it still passes the CPS diag with a weak CPS signal.

On a bit of a tangent, how are your battery cables to the block and starter? Are the starter bolts tight? There was a recent project thread where the CPS signal going to a MegaSquirt was very noisy during cranking, but OK once the starter turned off. It was eventually diagnosed as some sort of bad high-current ground connection between the battery/block/starter/transmission/chassis.
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Old 11-06-2021, 12:40 AM   #50
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I played around with my LH/EZK benchtop setup, and it turns out that passing the CPS diagnostic and getting the 1-4-1 code means almost nothing. I was able to get it to pass just by rapidly tapping the CPS wire to a 500mV source - tap tap tapatapatapa tippytap tapttapp, and up pops the 1-4-1 CPS pass code. If I was a bit faster and more rhythmic, I could get the fuel pump relay to briefly click on and the ignition&injector outputs to pulse a couple times.

With this, I think you're solidly back to looking at the CPS and wiring to the EZK box. Have you looked carefully at your CPS bracket (or reached your camera in) to make sure it isn't cracked or otherwise not holding the CPS sensor correctly? IIRC, the CPS tip to flywheel/flexplate clearance should be 1mm (although I don't think you can measure it with the engine installed).
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