- Joined
- Aug 7, 2003
- Location
- San Francisco
I can't take credit for the idea. Someone in sweden. Alex told me he saw it on another 240 and I JUST HAD TO HAVE IT.
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I'd say 17.very nice homer! Please bear with my questions, I am Very interested.
what is the minimum inside diameter for the wheels to use these?
are longer studs a good idea?
it appears that this changes the et of the rearend from 25 to?
any additional backspacing to the wheel spokes required?
does this work front and back or only back?
Stock. The calcs I did showed a 3% change in brake bias towards the front utilizing the stock prop valves. I think that's perfectly acceptable.That's a great idea, thanks for importing it to the U.S. Are you planning to use the stock proportioning valve or replacing with an adjustable unit?
That is pretty god damn brilliant
Very clever.
I can't take credit for the idea. Someone in sweden. Alex told me he saw it on another 240 and I JUST HAD TO HAVE IT.
Such a simple idea but genius.
Adam
Nice brake setup!...I did that rear rotor mod a few years ago, glad I'm not the only crazy person to do it....sure is messy when machining that stuff huh?
http://forums.turbobricks.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4329&stc=1&d=1200209342
Homer wouldn't know. He pawns all his machine work off on unsuspecting friends.
Nice!Quick and easy steering rack stops. 1" long, 1" ID. I'd go with 7/8" ID if I were to do it again. I fixed the looseness on the pass side with an oetiker over the spacer. Driver's side sits in the rack housing. Now my wheels don't bump the sway bar!
FYI, there are no seals for the stops to hit against on the housing.
Yes.Don't you want to run some 7 or 8 plugs?
Quick and easy steering rack stops. 1" long, 1" ID. I'd go with 7/8" ID if I were to do it again. I fixed the looseness on the pass side with an oetiker over the spacer. Driver's side sits in the rack housing. Now my wheels don't bump the sway bar!
FYI, there are no seals for the stops to hit against on the housing.