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Old 03-30-2020, 07:32 PM   #101
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lol




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Old 03-30-2020, 07:55 PM   #102
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Did you buy it back?
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Old 03-30-2020, 07:57 PM   #103
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This seems like a reasonable DD.
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Old 03-30-2020, 08:08 PM   #104
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Did you buy it back?
Yes. It came up for sale from the guy who bought it from the dealer I sold it to.

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This seems like a reasonable DD.
I can't tell if you're being serious.
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Old 03-30-2020, 08:25 PM   #105
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Yes. It came up for sale from the guy who bought it from the dealer I sold it to.
Sweet. Hopefully there's some equity for you if those guys did some work on the car. To quote a departed friend and consummate car salesman/buyer, "there's no better money spent on a car than the previous owner's."
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Old 03-30-2020, 10:53 PM   #106
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That's hilarious
Circle of life I guess
Congrats.
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Old 04-01-2020, 05:47 PM   #107
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Sweet. Hopefully there's some equity for you if those guys did some work on the car. To quote a departed friend and consummate car salesman/buyer, "there's no better money spent on a car than the previous owner's."
eh. I paid roughly $1800 more for it than I sold it for, and it's a driver now. It needs shocks all around as well as bushings and some other maintenance done but I'm just glad to have it back.
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Old 04-02-2020, 05:50 PM   #108
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I still think you should have bought the checker limo.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:21 PM   #109
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I still think you should have bought the checker limo.
Frankly, I agree. Plop a 6 liter LS in it and have the longest drift missle known to man.
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Old 04-02-2020, 08:36 PM   #110
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eh. I paid roughly $1800 more for it than I sold it for, and it's a driver now. It needs shocks all around as well as bushings and some other maintenance done but I'm just glad to have it back.
Well, if it would've cost you more than $1800 to pay a shop to do the work that the POs did, then you are ahead of the game.

I wonder if the primer spots could be spot painted blended into the original paint without resorting to respraying whole panels. Maybe some modern single stage urethane and a helpful paint supply shop could do the trick?

In any case, enjoy it.
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Old 04-02-2020, 09:00 PM   #111
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Well, if it would've cost you more than $1800 to pay a shop to do the work that the POs did, then you are ahead of the game.

I wonder if the primer spots could be spot painted blended into the original paint without resorting to respraying whole panels. Maybe some modern single stage urethane and a helpful paint supply shop could do the trick?

In any case, enjoy it.
I'm at least gonna try and blend it with a spray can from VP to make it all the same color. I have a few friends who are pretty good at blending and if the money comes up, I may just have them blend it down the road.
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Old 04-03-2020, 09:28 AM   #112
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I'm at least gonna try and blend it with a spray can from VP to make it all the same color. I have a few friends who are pretty good at blending and if the money comes up, I may just have them blend it down the road.
I had good results doing similar on the back of my 1800es. fooled the people who didn't squint at it... and the guy who bought the car ended up asking me where I got the color matched rattlecan so he could get more

the whole lower area surrounding the rear window glass was rattlecan blended. the shade is off slightly (too much green), and you can see where it returns to normal on the lower bumper because of the streaks

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Old 04-03-2020, 11:50 AM   #113
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Frankly, I agree. Plop a 6 liter LS in it and have the longest drift missle known to man.
First, you must own a nice drift car to have a “drift missile”.
Otherwise, you just have a crappy drift car. Don’t try and church it up.

It’s always fun to have an old friend come back home.
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Old 04-05-2020, 06:58 PM   #114
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I'm at least gonna try and blend it with a spray can from VP to make it all the same color. I have a few friends who are pretty good at blending and if the money comes up, I may just have them blend it down the road.
These old paints are incredibly forgiving when it comes to blending, etc... If you end up doing it yourself, wetsand the entire panel (primer and OEM paint) with 2000 grit. Then spray (at least 3-4 coats, working your way into the factory paint), then wetsand again with 2500 grit and then buff the whole with any old dual orbital buffer and mid-grit compound from 3M. The whole thing will take time (5-6 hours, easily) but you should be able to fool most people.
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Old 04-20-2020, 06:14 PM   #115
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These old paints are incredibly forgiving when it comes to blending, etc... If you end up doing it yourself, wetsand the entire panel (primer and OEM paint) with 2000 grit. Then spray (at least 3-4 coats, working your way into the factory paint), then wetsand again with 2500 grit and then buff the whole with any old dual orbital buffer and mid-grit compound from 3M. The whole thing will take time (5-6 hours, easily) but you should be able to fool most people.
I will certainly attempt this as I'd like to make the primer spots at least "match" even if the repaint on the car wasn't great.

Over the weekend, I swapped the Bilstein HD's off the 142 and onto this and inspected the front end more closely. I also have the IPD front sway ready to go on. The UCA bushings look good, the lowers are junk, however. Next up are Lesjofors overload springs for the rear as well as KYB Gas-A-Justs. I found a little bit of rust just starting on the drivers frame rail just like the 142, which is bizarre. I'll grind it all out, see if it needs patching, and the POR-15 the hell out of it once I'm done.
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Old 04-26-2020, 03:40 PM   #116
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Thanks Dana

So I'm at a crossroads with this thing. At some point soon, the engine needs to come out for a total reseal as it's leaky and god only knows what else needs replacing. If I'm pulling it, I'd like to make some upgrades to get more power. I'm looking at a cam, gears, DCOE's, M410, exhaust, total reseal, and maybe some port work. I'd be looking at about $3k to do that, all in, without doing anything internally. I have no idea about the history of this engine and would probably opt to do bearings, rings, and possibly even pistons.

I have a low mileage 13mm rod B230F in the garage along with a bunch of parts. I did the math, and could feasibly do the swap with Microsquirt for around $2500 including a clutch and flywheel for the T5 from the 142. I don't need or want 300hp. 200 reliable hp would be plenty for this thing.

Decisions decisions.
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Old 04-26-2020, 08:23 PM   #117
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Dibs on rare '72 rear carb
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Old 04-26-2020, 08:45 PM   #118
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A nicely hot b20 can be really fun, and sound great. But it’s never going to make a reliable 200 hp without a ton of work.
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Old 04-26-2020, 08:51 PM   #119
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A nicely hot b20 can be really fun, and sound great. But it’s never going to make a reliable 200 hp without a ton of work.
The question is, can I get 130whp that's actually usable around town for less than $3k.
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Old 04-26-2020, 09:00 PM   #120
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The question is, can I get 130whp that's actually usable around town for less than $3k.
I’ve never done it, but 3k sounds like a decent budget, considering you won’t have to do anything custom and you can keep the stock transmission.
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Old 04-29-2020, 08:37 PM   #121
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Oh gee, I wonder what this could possibly be:
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Old 04-29-2020, 08:41 PM   #122
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Yes. I approve.
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Old 04-30-2020, 02:19 AM   #123
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You guys always ruin the nice cars with engine swaps. If the power is too low buy a 245 turbo or something ;) The B20 is not fast I know but going fast in a 145 is no fun anyway. Relax and enjoy the (slow) ride instead.

/Swede
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:08 AM   #124
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Man - if you want something to swap an engine in to I'd consider trading my '79 245 to keep this thing all original. I lusted over this back when it was for sale but just couldn't make it work... looks great though!
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Old 04-30-2020, 09:54 AM   #125
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You guys always ruin the nice cars with engine swaps. If the power is too low buy a 245 turbo or something ;) The B20 is not fast I know but going fast in a 145 is no fun anyway. Relax and enjoy the (slow) ride instead.

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