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Old 01-25-2020, 02:45 PM   #126
Mint2Me
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Default An update on our project

Finish one thing and find 2 more to things replace it. Well, that's sort of where we are at. But it is only January and my plan is to be roadworthy by April Fools Day. Every pun intended with the selection of my date of completion.

Friday, we put the rebuilt front Stromberg in place and installed the rebuilt distributor now loaded with a Pertronix 1847 kit. So it wouldn't surprise you at all to hear that we couldn't find the rotor anywhere. Earlier in the day, we were at Custom Spares in Brewster, NY to pick up a Pertronix coil. If you live in the area and never heard of them you will be amazed by the inventory that Stuart has amassed over the years (http://customsparesltd.com/). A missed opportunity to get a rotor if I knew I needed one.

Well, the delay in starting the car for the first time led us to fix some electrical issues. That is where the tailgate hinge wiring issue I spoke about raised its ugly head. While my friend, Mike, worked to sort that out, I removed the vent windows to reinstall the top pin and original vent window locks. That went well and everything works as intended.

The Blaupunkt AM radio isn't working so I sent that off to Vinatgeblau in New York for diagnosis and repair (http://www.vintageblau.com/repairs.html). I replaced the interior light bulbs with 10W festoon bulbs and removed the interior rearview mirror because I found a NOS mirror through Don Thibault. Side mirror replacements coming from VP Auto Parts.

My friend and former colleague at Volvo Cars of North America gifted me with a complete and perfect copy of the Competition Services binder. Every item, part number, and illustration is there and it hurts to know I probably won't be able to find any of them!



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Old 01-27-2020, 05:42 AM   #127
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Finish one thing and find 2 more to things replace it. Well, that's sort of where we are at. But it is only January and my plan is to be roadworthy by April Fools Day. Every pun intended with the selection of my date of completion.

Friday, we put the rebuilt front Stromberg in place and installed the rebuilt distributor now loaded with a Pertronix 1847 kit. So it wouldn't surprise you at all to hear that we couldn't find the rotor anywhere. Earlier in the day, we were at Custom Spares in Brewster, NY to pick up a Pertronix coil. If you live in the area and never heard of them you will be amazed by the inventory that Stuart has amassed over the years (http://customsparesltd.com/). A missed opportunity to get a rotor if I knew I needed one.

Well, the delay in starting the car for the first time led us to fix some electrical issues. That is where the tailgate hinge wiring issue I spoke about raised its ugly head. While my friend, Mike, worked to sort that out, I removed the vent windows to reinstall the top pin and original vent window locks. That went well and everything works as intended.

The Blaupunkt AM radio isn't working so I sent that off to Vinatgeblau in New York for diagnosis and repair (http://www.vintageblau.com/repairs.html). I replaced the interior light bulbs with 10W festoon bulbs and removed the interior rearview mirror because I found a NOS mirror through Don Thibault. Side mirror replacements coming from VP Auto Parts.

My friend and former colleague at Volvo Cars of North America gifted me with a complete and perfect copy of the Competition Services binder. Every item, part number, and illustration is there and it hurts to know I probably won't be able to find any of them!



Cool! What kind of glue did you use for the windows?
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Old 01-27-2020, 09:30 AM   #128
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Cool! What kind of glue did you use for the windows?
I used a product called JB Weld Clear. “ J-B Weld™ is The Original Cold Weld two-part epoxy system that provides strong, lasting repairs to metal and multiple surfaces. Mixed at a ratio of 1:1, it forms a permanent bond”.

I am not naive to think this will last for 10 years so I will be selective on how much I use the windows! So far, I have put some pressure on the latches so I think I’m good for now.
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Old 01-30-2020, 08:49 PM   #129
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Default Major Leap Forward Day

We began the day hooking up the wiring harness for the Kaito fog lamps. It took us a while to figure it out but they work great. We had to use the lighted, modern switch instead of my period toggle until I get a toggle with 3 inputs instead of 2.



I obtained an NOS rear view interior mirror from Don Thibault and I popped that on. Next, installing my aircraft-quality, Mitchell clock in place of the ashtray. That required a little finesse because I had to remove the ashtray frame from behind the dash. A bit of a delay but we hooked it and it runs and lights up with the lights on. Sadly, discovered the dash lights don't work. the warning lights do but the gauge lights don't and since I had that out before, I could kick myself.



Oh, yeah, we started the beast and it runs great! So the rebuilt Bosch distributor, the Pertronix Igniter, the Pertronix coil, and 2 newly rebuilt Strombergs came to together and sang.

Next, I removed the dried out cowl rubber gasket and replaced it with a new VP Auto parts part. HD40 worked wonders here.



The Blaupunkt AM radio is on its way back from Vintageblau on Long Island. They spent 4 hours cleaning and getting it ready. They test every radio for a 24 hour "on" period to make sure it works properly.

The vent windows look great and work well. Hopefully, they will hold up in hot weather.



What's next...more electrical gremlins to cure including but not limited to the "everything in the tailgate" issue. We'll probably tackle a few "reachable" bushings in the front suspension to cure a clunk that we feel is adding to play in the steering. The idler arm has helped but not perfect yet.
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Old 01-30-2020, 08:58 PM   #130
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The problem with your instrument lighting is probably the rheostat.
It's a very simple unit and may only need a cleaning.
It is located on the back of the instrument cluster. I prefer to remove the instrument cluster to access the rheostat.

Do check the fuses first though.

I remember buying an exhaust system for my '70 from Stuart. Amazing how much stuff was in his warehouse. I believe he went by "Classic Garage" at the time.
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Old 02-02-2020, 05:03 PM   #131
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The problem with your instrument lighting is probably the rheostat.
It's a very simple unit and may only need a cleaning.
It is located on the back of the instrument cluster. I prefer to remove the instrument cluster to access the rheostat.

Do check the fuses first though.

I remember buying an exhaust system for my '70 from Stuart. Amazing how much stuff was in his warehouse. I believe he went by "Classic Garage" at the time.
Stuart is so knowledgeable. He told me if I need a new exhaust, I should by the system for the injected cars because the diameter is larger.

I have the gauge cluster in my work area. I managed to take the rheostat off without braking the dial. Everything is intact but slightly crusty. Lots of white dust inside and also inside of the dash when I pulled it out. Sprayed it with electrical cleaner, scrapped, filed, then blow-dried and sprayed more cleaner. It seems to spin around okay so I buttoned it up and will cross my fingers when I install all of the new bulbs.

If I need to go the jumper route, could I jump on the male blades fixed (the connections the rheostat snaps on to) on the circuit board before I jam the rheostat back on instead of trying to solder a jumper on the back?
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Old 02-02-2020, 07:20 PM   #132
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A bit late to the party; but, incredibly nice for an essentially original car of that vintage.

A couple of comments.

In the photo in post #58, it looks like you have the cooling system with the pressure cap on the expansion bottle. I have the later cross flow rad so things look a little odd to me; but, if you have the pressure cap on the bottle and that engine is cold, you have way to much coolant in the system. First moderately hot day and some slow traffic and you are going to be venting coolant all over the place because there is insufficient expansion room in the bottle. With the engine hot, coolant should be some where between the mid point and upper line on the bottle. Not a disaster.

I don't know whether you resolved your Pertronix / ballast resistor issue. The Pertronix website provides guidance on the requirement for an external resistor and it is based solely on the DC resistance of the ignition coil you are using. If the coil resistance is higher than the minimum value specified by Pertronix on their website there is no need for an external resistor. Using an external resistor when you don't need one will impair your ignition performance. I ran a Pertronix module on my 1971 142E for a year or two and the resistance of the stock Bosch coil was high enough that I did not require an external resistor.
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Old 02-02-2020, 07:49 PM   #133
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A bit late to the party; but, incredibly nice for an essentially original car of that vintage.

A couple of comments.

In the photo in post #58, it looks like you have the cooling system with the pressure cap on the expansion bottle. I have the later cross flow rad so things look a little odd to me; but, if you have the pressure cap on the bottle and that engine is cold, you have way to much coolant in the system. First moderately hot day and some slow traffic and you are going to be venting coolant all over the place because there is insufficient expansion room in the bottle. With the engine hot, coolant should be some where between the mid point and upper line on the bottle. Not a disaster.

I don't know whether you resolved your Pertronix / ballast resistor issue. The Pertronix website provides guidance on the requirement for an external resistor and it is based solely on the DC resistance of the ignition coil you are using. If the coil resistance is higher than the minimum value specified by Pertronix on their website there is no need for an external resistor. Using an external resistor when you don't need one will impair your ignition performance. I ran a Pertronix module on my 1971 142E for a year or two and the resistance of the stock Bosch coil was high enough that I did not require an external resistor.
A very good call on the pressure cap because what you predict has already happened. Couldn’t figure out why the coolant was spraying this past Friday. Is draining the rad a bit the solution or do I have to change the cap too? I solved the Coil/Resistor issue the only way I know how - I bought a Pertronix 3 ohm coil. Started right up!

Last edited by Mint2Me; 02-02-2020 at 08:01 PM..
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Old 02-03-2020, 12:13 PM   #134
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A very good call on the pressure cap because what you predict has already happened. Couldn’t figure out why the coolant was spraying this past Friday. Is draining the rad a bit the solution or do I have to change the cap too? I solved the Coil/Resistor issue the only way I know how - I bought a Pertronix 3 ohm coil. Started right up!
With the engine cold, remove the cap and siphon coolant out of the over flow bottle until the level is slightly above the bottom mark on the bottle (about 50 mm from bottom if the level mark is not visible). Put the cap back on, start the engine and let it come up to operating temperature. The coolant should come up to around the mid point or slightly above when the engine is up to normal temperature. Adjust by filling or siphoning as required. You don't want the level getting too high because you want to leave some extra expansion room for those hot days when you come off the highway and immediately hit a red light. You loose a lot of cooling power when the car isn't moving and the water pump has slowed down and with a really hot engine block the temperatures will go up and the coolant is going to expand. If there is not enough hot expansion room left you will get 'the burp'.

You have been driving the car a bit already so you should not have to go through the cooling system purge that is required after a coolant change. In future, any adjustments to the cooling system level should be done by adding / deleting from the over flow bottle to maintain the correct warm engine level. Do not top up from the rad cap.

Getting the coolant bottle level correct should fix your problem. If you find that you are still venting some fluid / vapour from around the top of the coolant bottle the pressure cap on the bottle may be faulty; however, my 1971 cap is original and continues to work just fine. The cap on the rad is just a cap - no pressure release mechanism. If it leaks at the rad cap then the rubber seal in the cap has failed. You can buy new caps; but, some of them have a problem. The tangs on the cap are formed incorrectly and the caps will not seal completely. If you can find some sheet rubber gasket material you can cut a new seal for your old rad cap. You may have to shim it a bit to insure a tight seal.

Last edited by 142 guy; 02-03-2020 at 12:22 PM..
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Old 02-03-2020, 08:02 PM   #135
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With the engine cold, remove the cap and siphon coolant out of the over flow bottle until the level is slightly above the bottom mark on the bottle (about 50 mm from bottom if the level mark is not visible). Put the cap back on, start the engine and let it come up to operating temperature. The coolant should come up to around the mid point or slightly above when the engine is up to normal temperature. Adjust by filling or siphoning as required. You don't want the level getting too high because you want to leave some extra expansion room for those hot days when you come off the highway and immediately hit a red light. You loose a lot of cooling power when the car isn't moving and the water pump has slowed down and with a really hot engine block the temperatures will go up and the coolant is going to expand. If there is not enough hot expansion room left you will get 'the burp'.

You have been driving the car a bit already so you should not have to go through the cooling system purge that is required after a coolant change. In future, any adjustments to the cooling system level should be done by adding / deleting from the over flow bottle to maintain the correct warm engine level. Do not top up from the rad cap.

Getting the coolant bottle level correct should fix your problem. If you find that you are still venting some fluid / vapour from around the top of the coolant bottle the pressure cap on the bottle may be faulty; however, my 1971 cap is original and continues to work just fine. The cap on the rad is just a cap - no pressure release mechanism. If it leaks at the rad cap then the rubber seal in the cap has failed. You can buy new caps; but, some of them have a problem. The tangs on the cap are formed incorrectly and the caps will not seal completely. If you can find some sheet rubber gasket material you can cut a new seal for your old rad cap. You may have to shim it a bit to insure a tight seal.
Finally, an easy fix. I appreciate your eagle-eye warning and for alerting me. I managed to get a few things done, although I didn't spend much time on the project. I pulled the gauge cluster out and planned an easy repair by changing all of the mini-bulbs before I reinstall it to see if my rheostat maintenance worked. Of course, one of the mini-bulb holders came apart in my hands dropping little pieces in the cluster. I managed to get them out and called my friend who owns Auto Turismo Sport in New Milford, Conn. I know he never throws anything out and was sure he had a mini-bulb holder for a VDO gauge cluster. He did. I cleaned them up, inserted new bulbs and crossed my finger. I will also change the mini-bulbs for the heater dials while it is open.

My Blaupunkt radio returned today too and it is looking great. So this week, I should get the dash lit and ready for exterior lighting issues.
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Old 02-04-2020, 08:13 AM   #136
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Stuart is so knowledgeable. He told me if I need a new exhaust, I should by the system for the injected cars because the diameter is larger.

I have the gauge cluster in my work area. I managed to take the rheostat off without braking the dial. Everything is intact but slightly crusty. Lots of white dust inside and also inside of the dash when I pulled it out. Sprayed it with electrical cleaner, scrapped, filed, then blow-dried and sprayed more cleaner. It seems to spin around okay so I buttoned it up and will cross my fingers when I install all of the new bulbs.

If I need to go the jumper route, could I jump on the male blades fixed (the connections the rheostat snaps on to) on the circuit board before I jam the rheostat back on instead of trying to solder a jumper on the back?
The upgrade to the fuel injected exhaust system is very common. I'm not sure the smaller (carbureted) exhaust is even available anymore for lack of interest.

I'd suggest bench testing the rheostat prior to reinstalling the cluster.
A simple ohm meter used across the terminals will show the resistance variation as you turn the knob. I have brought several back to life by cleaning, but have had mixed results with the "variable" function. A few have resulted in full brightness or nothing.
I don't see any reason why you wouldn't be able to just jump the spade terminals together.
Not sure if that would leave enough room to refit the rheostat "switch" though.
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Old 02-04-2020, 04:47 PM   #137
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The upgrade to the fuel injected exhaust system is very common. I'm not sure the smaller (carbureted) exhaust is even available anymore for lack of interest.

I'd suggest bench testing the rheostat prior to reinstalling the cluster.
A simple ohm meter used across the terminals will show the resistance variation as you turn the knob. I have brought several back to life by cleaning, but have had mixed results with the "variable" function. A few have resulted in full brightness or nothing.
I don't see any reason why you wouldn't be able to just jump the spade terminals together.
Not sure if that would leave enough room to refit the rheostat "switch" though.
It lives! The dash lights work without jumping the rheostat. I managed to get the "climate control" dials illuminated in the process. I may have caused another, larger problem. In the process of futzing with reattaching the wires on the back of the cluster, I leaned a little hard on the directional stalk. I heard an ominous but faint noise as a result. When I turned the key to check the dash lights, the directionals were blinking for a left turn. I couldn't get that to stop and my rear directionals weren't working (new bulbs).

Bought a new old stock Hirschman antenna on eBay for $28.

I'll end this day's report with an "ugh".

Last edited by Mint2Me; 02-04-2020 at 08:12 PM..
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Old 02-04-2020, 11:51 PM   #138
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Good news is that new replacement turn signal switches are available for a not incredibly bad price. If you take the top black plastic housing off the steering column its easy to see the switch mechanism. Visual inspection may show obvious damage. If not, disconnect the wiring from the switch and use the wiring diagram in the service manual to check the function of the switch. I am thinking that if you jammed the lever hard enough you may have mangled the switch contacts which is why you have left permanently on.

Is it the left rear that is not flashing? If so, check for the missing / loose connection at the switch. As I recall, both the front and rear turn signals come to spade connectors on the switch
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Old 02-05-2020, 09:06 PM   #139
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I wonder if you knocked the flasher unit out of it's receptical when you were reinstalling the instrument cluster.
The flasher plugs into the back side of the 4-way "HAZARD" switch.
Maybe try just seating the flasher back into the switch.
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Old 02-07-2020, 09:26 AM   #140
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I wonder if you knocked the flasher unit out of it's receptical when you were reinstalling the instrument cluster.
The flasher plugs into the back side of the 4-way "HAZARD" switch.
Maybe try just seating the flasher back into the switch.
I plan on installing LEDs and therefore ordered an LED compatible 3-pin flasher. I have the turn signal free but plugged in and cleaned everything in the column. The switch feels okay and we will test each poll next week.

I am installing a the re-webbed seats tomorrow. The Blaupunkt is back in with a new Hirschmann antenna. it lives! I get discouraged after time with this project but yesterday was a better day.
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Old 02-07-2020, 05:44 PM   #141
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I get discouraged after time with this project but yesterday was a better day.
Don't get discouraged.
These cars are so simple.
It's amazing how often all it takes is removing, cleaning and reassembling to get something operable again.

If a dope like me can make an early 140 a dependable driver, anyone can.

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Old 02-11-2020, 06:04 PM   #142
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Default Scored a good one!

Look what I found! A really nice, original removable roof rack. I may have to refinish the wood slats but that is more of an opportunity than a pain.

I am still trying to sort out my turn signals and tail light issue. I installed a new LED compatible flasher, plugged in the lights and no results. I had the taillight housing unattached from the body and not one of the bulbs lit. I am a novice at lots of things like electricity so I'm thinking the light housings have to be attached to the body so they ground. Don't laugh if that is just stupid.

The wiring on this car is pristine so I am dumbfounded by this gremlin. I'll try putting the standard light bulbs in to see what happens. I'm going to get myself a test light.



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Old 02-11-2020, 09:08 PM   #143
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I don't recall a separate ground wire for the light housings, so you would be correct that they need to be fastened to the chassis to complete the circuit.

I would recommend a VOA (voltage, ohms, amperage) meter instead of a plain test light.
They're much handier for troubleshooting electrical issues and they're inexpensive too.

Nice roof rack.
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Old 02-11-2020, 10:00 PM   #144
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As noted, the body sheet metal forms the return path for just about all the lighting systems in the car. The light socket has to be plugged into the light housing and the housing has to be in good electrical contact with the rest of the body.

Have a look inside the light sockets. At the base of the socket you will see the contacts that are supposed to press against the contacts on the bottom of the bulb. After a few years of non use those contacts can develop an oxide coating that prevents current flow. Also, what is the inside of the socket like? It should be clean and shiny because that forms the contact for the return path through the chassis. Cleaning the inside of the socket with a Scotch pad made for scuffing paint will clean up the sockets and contacts nicely. At Home Depot and the like you can find a product called Ox Guard. Applying this to the socket and contacts (after they have been cleaned) can improve performance. Sometimes you will see that the contacts in the base of the socket are seriously worn down. If that is the case then replacement of the socket is in order.

I think you said you have the Green Book. If the problem persists have a look at the wiring diagram. Volvo symbols can be a little unintuitive; but, with a little study you should be able to figure out what is going on. Use a voltmeter to check for voltage on the turn signal and taillight circuits starting at the front of the car and working backwards to see if there is a place where the voltage 'disappears'.

Check all your fuses. If you have not done so already, I recommend that you replace them with new fuses. The end contacts on the 'torpedo' style fuses can disappear over time due to fretting resulting in flakey connections. Polish up the contacts with some of that Scotch pad and if the fuses are not a firm fit in the contacts bend the flexible contact just a smidge to ensure a tight fit. Some Ox Guard on the fuse contacts won't hurt.

Until you get things working, ditch the LEDs and LED flasher and use conventional bulbs for testing. LEDs draw very little current and can do quirky things if their load current is below the threshold current for reliable operation of a contact. If you get everything working with regular bulbs, then you can experiment with LEDs.

When I resurrected my '71 142E after 20 years of storage, I had a lot of trouble with the electrical system which ultimately I traced to flakey contacts in the light sockets and flakey grounds associated with a fresh repaint.
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Old 02-12-2020, 07:46 AM   #145
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That roofrack will look awsome on your car. In fact, your work inspires me to do some work on my own 145

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Old 02-12-2020, 09:05 AM   #146
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Default Very Appreciative!

What a great group of people all of you are to spend your time helping others out.. I’ve had lots of old cars in my life but I always paid someone to do the dirty work (renamed “fun work”). I am thoroughly enjoying learning from you and consulting the Green Book. Thanks all for your patience and your time..
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Old 02-12-2020, 06:25 PM   #147
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Default Turn Signal Switch

I know I mentioned it before and I hoped it wasn't the issue for my erratic light show. Alas, I think it is the problem. I brought it home today after running the lights with standard bulbs and a standard flasher.

As soon as I connected the battery the headlights went on. If I fiddled with the switch, the directionals sort of worked. They flashed slowly for the left side and the right, both rear lights flashed. I think the switch is stuck on the high beam "flasher" and that is why they go on with the key. That must mean stuff is going on inside and these don't want to open easily for inspection. I will try to source a good used switch since VP says they are back-ordered with no plans for production.

So, if you know anyone who has one like mine, let me know. I'll post in "Wanted" and Facebook too.



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Old 02-12-2020, 06:34 PM   #148
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Since you're looking to buy another anyways, why not just bend the tabs back and open the sucker up? Maybe there's some hope in fixing it once you're in there.
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Old 02-12-2020, 07:27 PM   #149
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Since you're looking to buy another anyways, why not just bend the tabs back and open the sucker up? Maybe there's some hope in fixing it once you're in there.
I agree and have taken those apart to clean and lube. There's nothing to lose.
Would hate to see it thrown away before any diagnosis.
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Old 02-12-2020, 09:04 PM   #150
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Why not douche it with deoxit and see what happens. Doesn’t look like anything high tech
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