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Old 12-22-2020, 08:38 AM   #126
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I got the oil pressure sensor connector in the mail yesterday. Thanks for the link, white 855T! I also have a door switch ready to replace one of the broken ones. I figured that if I'm going to make myself fix that stuff, I want to warm up my butt when I'm done. Its been a bit uncomfortable riding into work with cold vinyl seats even with the remote start! I have the Bentley manual, but I've found the tiny hand drawn diagrams to be useless. I can't read or see a thing. Luckily my buddy is a shop teacher, so he slipped me his Alldata password which gave me access to much nicer diagrams.

Volvo might try to behead me for posting this pic, but I'm going to try anyway. Neither of the switches illuminate when I move them to the "on" position, and the fuse is confirmed to be good. This gives me three different scenarios. There can be an issue with the power wire between the fuse block and the driver side switch, the ground for everything can no good (probably my first check), or both bulbs are burnt out with some other unknown issue. I would not be surprised to find any of these as my fault because the car is kind of a wiring disaster. I'm actually not going to blame the previous owners for this because the car is very stock besides the remote start. It just has some funky electrical gremlins in all the convenience systems which seem to have occurred naturally. I guess we'll find out once I find out for sure when I find my issues once and for all.


It's clear that the driver seat was reupholstered at some point, and I think a new heated seat grid was installed at the same time because the wires look too new. They are also way too long which results in getting tangled in the feet of rear passengers. I'm for sure going to address that while I have the seat out. Wish me luck, and relatively warm weather! I have to do all this outside of the garage.
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Old 12-22-2020, 07:04 PM   #127
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Oil light works again!


Replaced a door switch and even transferred the little rubber dust cover. *Pinky out* It's all in the details. I sure could use another one for the tailgate. I'm kinda just glad I happened to buy a door switch that didn't break on it's way out of the bag.






Then I started playing with the heated seats becasue it was still light out. I'm gonna make a whole other thread for that because it's a disaster. In better news, I'm immune to COVID now!

It's disgusting how much junk accumulates in the center console.

Here's a taste of what I'm up against. So much for not blaming a previous owner. lol
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Old 12-22-2020, 07:16 PM   #128
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This reminds me that my passenger side door switch isn't connected to anything. Wonder whether I'll ever get around to it...
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Old 12-22-2020, 07:36 PM   #129
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This reminds me that my passenger side door switch isn't connected to anything. Wonder whether I'll ever get around to it...
lol it made me super happy to have that work again.... for about 5 minutes. I took the car to get pizza and the odometer stopped rolling. Now I'm ready to light a friggen match. Any time I spend a bunch of time repairing a bunch or little stuff the car kicks me in the nuts with some sort of failure. I HATE THESE ELECTRIC CLUSTERS.

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Old 12-22-2020, 08:37 PM   #130
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I was there for 5 years or so. Then your fixes wear out and you start all over again.

My T5 is making noise and the alarm horn in the BMW stopped working. Sometimes you just have to take it like a man and spread you chee...wait wrong analogy.
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Old 12-22-2020, 08:53 PM   #131
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I was there for 5 years or so. Then your fixes wear out and you start all over again.

My T5 is making noise and the alarm horn in the BMW stopped working. Sometimes you just have to take it like a man and spread you chee...wait wrong analogy.


Cars are such unappreciative little brats! They seem to band together and go on strike so that you have multiple great cars one day and then nothing functional the next.

For those who are interested in the seat warming stuff, here's a link. https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=358372 I'm not touching the odometer though. I'm officially out of ideas with that dang thing short of sending it in to a VDO wizzard.
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Old 12-22-2020, 08:59 PM   #132
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The odometer failures are related to a little plastic gear that sheds teef. Not a big deal to repair at all.
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Old 12-22-2020, 09:03 PM   #133
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The odometer failures are related to a little plastic gear that sheds teef. Not a big deal to repair at all.
Ohhhh buddy.... We are way past that. lol

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=350828
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Old 12-23-2020, 01:02 AM   #134
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Ohhhhhhhman. STACK time.
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Old 12-23-2020, 08:18 AM   #135
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Ohhhhhhhman. STACK time.
yeeaahhhh given all the work I've put into the car, I'm almost ready to bite the bullet here. I think I'd want it to be the last mechanical issue left though. If I manage to fix the heated seats, rear dome light, and rear floor light I'll consider sending the cluster in for a refresh. That's assuming everything else continues to work the way it should too! It may just be a cheap old car to some, but I think it would be awesome to say that all the factory functions work and we continue to take this 30 year old beater everywhere.
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Old 01-20-2021, 08:42 AM   #136
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In order to keep my build thread relatively streamlined, I decided to keep my cluster issues in it's own thread. Here it is again. https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=350828 However, I'm pretty confident that this is the end of THAT particular problem. A very nice guy sent me a new motor. With careful soldering and new iron, I was able to bring this odometer back to life!


What's a bummer is that I still cannot confirm whether I have full IP operation or not. This started happening every drive cycle.


Either I messed up my gauge while I was fixing the odometer, or my engine isn't staying warm. I say "staying" because the gauge goes up to operating temp for a minute or two after warmup, and then starts to crawl down to under 1/4. It never goes back up unless I let the engine cool all the way back down. I popped the hood and felt around. The radiator hoses are not very hot. I even squeezed the upper to find that the system is really pressurized. The expansion tank cap must not be holding pressure. However, there is still a lot of coolant in there, so I don't think it's boiling. Thermostat?
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Old 01-20-2021, 09:57 AM   #137
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In order to keep my build thread relatively streamlined, I decided to keep my cluster issues in it's own thread. Here it is again. https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=350828 However, I'm pretty confident that this is the end of THAT particular problem. A very nice guy sent me a new motor. With careful soldering and new iron, I was able to bring this odometer back to life!


What's a bummer is that I still cannot confirm whether I have full IP operation or not. This started happening every drive cycle.


Either I messed up my gauge while I was fixing the odometer, or my engine isn't staying warm. I say "staying" because the gauge goes up to operating temp for a minute or two after warmup, and then starts to crawl down to under 1/4. It never goes back up unless I let the engine cool all the way back down. I popped the hood and felt around. The radiator hoses are not very hot. I even squeezed the upper to find that the system is really pressurized. The expansion tank cap must not be holding pressure. However, there is still a lot of coolant in there, so I don't think it's boiling. Thermostat?
Interested to see what you find here... my temp gauge has always hung out right at 1/3. OE temp thermostat, temp faker bypassed. No matter if its the dead of summer in texas with AC on, etc... I might try a hotter thermostat and check the results with a IR temp gun
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Old 01-20-2021, 10:13 AM   #138
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Interested to see what you find here... my temp gauge has always hung out right at 1/3. OE temp thermostat, temp faker bypassed. No matter if its the dead of summer in texas with AC on, etc... I might try a hotter thermostat and check the results with a IR temp gun
That is kind of odd. My temp faker is bypassed as well. I'm not really sure what would be normal to see, but my temp gun was showing 125F at the t-stat housing after a 10 minute drive. That seems quite cold to me. I feel like it should be too hot to touch and relatively close to the opening temp of the t-stat.
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Old 01-20-2021, 11:29 AM   #139
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That is kind of odd. My temp faker is bypassed as well. I'm not really sure what would be normal to see, but my temp gun was showing 125F at the t-stat housing after a 10 minute drive. That seems quite cold to me. I feel like it should be too hot to touch and relatively close to the opening temp of the t-stat.
When my temp gauge was at that point, it would read 175F at the hose. Make sure you're pointing at something non-reflective, like the hose, not the housing.
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Old 01-21-2021, 11:07 AM   #140
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The gauge was reading at about 1/3 while I was taking this measurement. This makes me believe that the gauge really isn't fooling me. I have a cap and a 92*C (stock) thermostat on the way.
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Old 01-23-2021, 02:53 PM   #141
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I'm in for some more fun... nope. I hate it.





First of all, that's rust. Brand new parts shouldn't be pre-corroded. That's not okay. Second of all, 87* is not what I ordered nor what I wanted. I took the thermostat housing off anyway. I found it to be spring side down which seemed wrong. I flipped it and put it back together. I also found that I got the wrong part last time too. It also has 87* stamped into the body. That being said, there was no change in gauge reading.

I have a refund on the way from RA, but I still don't know if a correct thermostat is going to fix this. My thought is that opening the thermostat too soon in this winter weather could be causing the car to never heat up. What do you all think?
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Old 01-23-2021, 05:19 PM   #142
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That's odd. I use an 87⁰ thermostat as well and my running temperature is in the 180-185⁰F in ~45⁰F weather.

My suspicion is that the original thermostat has failed, but even a lower temperature one should be fine.

How's your fan clutch?
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Old 01-23-2021, 07:53 PM   #143
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That's odd. I use an 87⁰ thermostat as well and my running temperature is in the 180-185⁰F in ~45⁰F weather.

My suspicion is that the original thermostat has failed, but even a lower temperature one should be fine.

How's your fan clutch?
I too would not think that a few degrees one way or the other on opening temp would matter much. How do you measure temp? Do you have a better gauge?

Good question regarding the fan clutch. I don't even know how to test that.
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Old 01-23-2021, 08:05 PM   #144
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I mean it should obviously spin the fan when the engine is hot, but how would I test it for over cooling? The clutch doesn't feel stuck or anything.

After reading what I found on 240turbo.com, it seems that the thermostat temp is right for my car. I'll probably toss the crusty but new one in there and see what happens. At least they're easy to change. As for the fan clutch, I might just have to gamble.

Last edited by volvowagoon; 01-23-2021 at 08:12 PM.. Reason: read 240turbo's article
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Old 01-23-2021, 09:16 PM   #145
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You should be able to move the fan blades relatively freely. I don't think that a locked up fan clutch could overcool that much but stranger things have happened. As for measuring temperature, my approach is the same: IR thermo pointed at the thermostat neck.
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Old 01-25-2021, 07:05 PM   #146
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I replaced the thermostat today after work. Why not. This time I tried to be more observant toward issues in the one I left in last time too. Sure enough, the old one would very easily get stuck when I manually tried to open it. The new one was nice and smooth. I thought for sure, I had it figured out.

Nope. Now I'm officially frustrated. I no longer have faith in my odometer repair. Could I have messed up the temp gauge while I was in the instrument panel? I looked up a diagram, and it seems that the answer would be "no".

If I messed up the voltage regulator I would have compromised the temp gauge as well. I just filled up today, so I know it works fine. I'm not really sure how to diagnose this electrically either, so I'm stumped. Where is the temp sensor? maybe I could just check for 12V between the sensor and the wire with the sensor unplugged? If I unplug it, will the gauge peg hot? I may need to start a separate thread for this.
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:03 PM   #147
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The sensor for the temp gauge is in the middle of the cylinder head under the intake manifold IIRC, it’s the one with one wire connected to it.
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:14 PM   #148
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The sensor for the temp gauge is in the middle of the cylinder head under the intake manifold IIRC, it’s the one with one wire connected to it.
Thank you! That's where I guessed it was. Sounds like a tough reach. I'll check it out tomorrow.
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Old 02-02-2021, 02:33 PM   #149
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To avoid clogging my "build" thread thread with boring details and stuff that I don't actually follow through with, I made a couple threads in the maintenance forum. If you're interested in the cooling system issue, here's a link. https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=358830 I have noticed the temp going up to normal operating temp at idle if I keep the heater valve closed which just further confirms that my sensor works fine. I think the temp faker delete and cold air through the radiator are making my gauge move a lot more than normal. If I still have some sort of issue in the spring, I'll continue digging because this 20 mpg business isn't gonna fly for much longer.

I also started chasing down the heated seat problem. Although I confirmed that I have an open in the grid, I haven't gone about fixing that yet. In fact, I'm going backwards. The more I started playing with the seat, the more things I found wrong with it. To make a long story short, the height adjusters would not stay level because the track was bent. When I forced the adjusters level the forward/backward adjustment (for longer/shorter legs) would get jammed. In my attempts to level everything out I induced the gangster lean into the frame.

I made a mess out of that seat , but I was not about to dig into it without any experience in upholstery. Luckily I had the perfect candidate for practice in my basement! I still had all the seats from my first wagon. They were all in great shape except for the terribly blown out driver seat. You can find everything about that adventure right here! https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=358372 To make that long story short, I made the blown out springless driver seat into something much more comfy than I've ever had in a 240. We're rocking that one until I can fix up the original but previously reupholstered seat in the same fashion. If I really feel like getting picky down the road, I'll buy new foam, grid, seat heater, and an NOS '89+ cover for the seat I just did, but I'm not going to make any plans for that yet. The -'88 covers are not nearly as pretty IMO, but they're presentable.

Here are the highlights.
Blown out and ratty




Getting naked


That explains some of the pains I got from driving my old car!




Bare bones


Using pins to hold the foam in place while the 3M spray glue dried.


Dried


Torn T-shirt for reinforcement


Inside got the same treatment


Seat bottom fixes


Anybody else get yellow flakes all over the floor? The T-shirt mod is nice just for taking car of that.




Wagonmeister grid


New hog rings. I wouldn't zip tie. This stuff is under a lot of tension and I can't imagine plastic ties holding long. Hog ring and plier kits are cheap on Amazon and actually pretty fun to use.


Check it out! I went from blown out and ratty to... rigged and ratty? It's infinitely more comfortable than it was before and infinitely less annoying than the gangster lean.




After repainting and re-lubing the track, it went into the car nice and easy. I still don't have a seat heater, and this cover is super ugly; however, it's much better than having your torso facing the radio instead of the steering wheel.


I have a lot more stuff to take care of like a leaking mid-pipe, transmission flush, and diff service, but I'll mess with all that in the spring. The car is clocking miles and getting my fiance to work without back pain. Success! It's time to work on the Camaro again.
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Old 02-04-2021, 01:41 AM   #150
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You can flush the transmission in less than an hour start to finish without much investment if it really needs done.
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