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Cam Swap from A to V

S

stayathomedad

New member
Joined
Apr 21, 2020
Location
Visalia California
Hello all, new to the forum and volvo engines in general but am diving right in!
I currently have a stock B230 block, 531 head with an A cam. NA set-up.
I'm going to be replacing the A cam with a V cam and have a question regarding shim and lobe clearance.
Does anyone happen to know what clearances I should be looking at between the base of the lobe and shim for this cam swap?
Thanks!
 
Harlard, god that 242 is clean!!!!

That's good to know, I'm hoping I won't need to change shims at all. I just wanted to put a feeler gauge in just to make sure. Better to check I'd think.
 
I've read that sometimes if you end up needing to change a shim, a shim from another lifter might end up fitting so at times you can just move the shims around that you have to fit where you need them. Have you guys ever gone about doing something like that?
 
I'll just subscribe to see if you have any big differences going from A to V. I'm going from a 530 with a B cam to a 531 with a V cam, just haven't had a place to do the swap.
 
Leon_pp said:
why do you want to do that swap?
Clearence have to be always made after a cam change.
Click to expand...
I felt and measured a nice increase going from A to V. And that was on junk LH 2.2.

Harlard said:
Stock for stock, doing 20+ cam changes, I have had to change lashes exactly never.
Click to expand...
I always measure with no hushers, and always find some differences.
I was lucky to have worked in dealerships when we had to adjust the lash on cars a lot, I got good at it.

stayathomedad said:
I've read that sometimes if you end up needing to change a shim, a shim from another lifter might end up fitting so at times you can just move the shims around that you have to fit where you need them. Have you guys ever gone about doing something like that?
Click to expand...
Yes, that is correct.
I keep a tackle tray full of shims, measured and marked. But often I can move shims around too.
If doing a belt at the same time:
If it has hushers (I assume they do unless I know otherwise) I remove the cam, measure the shims and write all that down, remove the hushers, put it together, measure the lash. Write it down.
I remove the cam again, change shims, reassemble, put in the new seals, etc.

You can get the shims out with the cam in place, but hushers are a pain. It's finicky to push the bucket down just enough to get a good reading.
And if you are ok with a little noise, leave the hushers in. I put hushers in for customers.
 
mikep said:
I felt and measured a nice increase going from A to V. And that was on junk LH 2.2.

I always measure with no hushers, and always find some differences.
I was lucky to have worked in dealerships when we had to adjust the lash on cars a lot, I got good at it.


Yes, that is correct.
I keep a tackle tray full of shims, measured and marked. But often I can move shims around too.
If doing a belt at the same time:
If it has hushers (I assume they do unless I know otherwise) I remove the cam, measure the shims and write all that down, remove the hushers, put it together, measure the lash. Write it down.
I remove the cam again, change shims, reassemble, put in the new seals, etc.

You can get the shims out with the cam in place, but hushers are a pain. It's finicky to push the bucket down just enough to get a good reading.
And if you are ok with a little noise, leave the hushers in. I put hushers in for customers.
Click to expand...

Excellent, some great information right here Thanks!
I was wondering if the hushers were a necessity, obviously not.
 
For reference:
240 B230E had 530+A-cam: 95kW@5250rpm 190Nm@3000rpm
740 B230E had 530+V-cam: 96kW@5500rpm 190Nm@3300rpm

I have a feeling the exhaust on 240 is more restrictive than 740 which can play a role, but not sure?
 
JE Jr said:
For reference:
240 B230E had 530+A-cam: 95kW@5250rpm 190Nm@3000rpm
740 B230E had 530+V-cam: 96kW@5500rpm 190Nm@3300rpm

I have a feeling the exhaust on 240 is more restrictive than 740 which can play a role, but not sure?
Click to expand...

It's probably obvious that both cams with a 531 head will produce better numbers, however I truly hope it ends up being better then a difference of 1 for my application.
 
stayathomedad said:
It's probably obvious that both cams with a 531 head will produce better numbers, however I truly hope it ends up being better then a difference of 1 for my application.
Click to expand...

You can also turn up the ignition advance and grab what feels like a bit more power. Just get a timing light and rotate the distributor or get sbabbs' EZK chip if you are on LH 2.4.
 
JE Jr said:
For reference:
240 B230E had 530+A-cam: 95kW@5250rpm 190Nm@3000rpm
740 B230E had 530+V-cam: 96kW@5500rpm 190Nm@3300rpm

I have a feeling the exhaust on 240 is more restrictive than 740 which can play a role, but not sure?
Click to expand...

Also, 740 has more sofitisticated igniton system, EZK 118 with integrated map sensor and knock sensor. 240 has more traditional mechanical advance system and vacuum clock.
 
stayathomedad said:
Do you guys think advancing or retarding the cam and dizzy might be a good idea? I've read that advancing can give more top end while retarding can give more bottom end.
Click to expand...

In general advancing the ignition is better. The caveat is that you may need higher octane gas as the possibility of pinging increases the more you advance.

Advancing a cam moves the power band lower, retarding it moves it higher.
 
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