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Eaton M90 + B230ft

volvowagoon said:
I find it so strange that this got bumped. I stumbled on this thread a couple days ago. I'd love to throw my M90 on the 240 with Microsquirt and a 4l60e. I don't know why. There's a reason this hasn't been done much. It's wayyyyyy easier to just get all the stock turbo stuff and bolt it on.

Making a pulley for an M90 to work with v-belts would be tough. I think bolting a modified SBC serpentine crank pulley on top of the stock water pump pulley to drive the SC and bring it forward a little would be the best and easiest way.... not that I've thought about it or anything. lol I wouldn't twin charge it though. I'd just put the M90 above the exhaust manifold, run it through a stock IC, and keep my AC. Let's be real though. I'm not going to end up doing any of that.
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I also considered bolting another pulley to the water pump but decided against it because I wasn't sure how the bearings in the pump would handle the extra load.
 
spock345 said:
I also considered bolting another pulley to the water pump but decided against it because I wasn't sure how the bearings in the pump would handle the extra load.
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Good point. I would probably change it out with every timing belt swap. It would also help a lot to keep the serpentine belt as close to the engine as possible for less leverage.... now putting a v-belt pulley on the M90 doesn't sound too bad. I need to remove the pulley on mine and figure out the shaft size.
 
If you use waterpump for supercharger I'd say you toast waterpump bearings much faster than you change timing belts. The belt(s) need to be tight. Even a stock 6PK serpentine needs to be tight.

And then you have to think about the ratio and diameter of the pulleys. Around 2:1 you start getting somewhere boostwise. I think I had 2.2:1 with M90 on a 2.5l 16V engine.

I had a new pulley machined to bring the belt back more:
143.jpg


If you think about a combined aluminium crank pulley for V-belts and serpentine, I'd say don't. If there is any slip, combined with the radiant heat from the crank, the pulley heats up(and expands) so much that it loosens the crank bolt.
 
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Lankku said:
If you think about a combined aluminium crank pulley for V-belts and serpentine, I'd say don't. If there is any slip, combined with the radiant heat from the crank, the pulley heats up(and expands) so much that it loosens the crank bolt.
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Did I miss the picture of how the belt feeding the supercharger is routed?
 
When I started to do this on an L28 I grabbed 2 Ford alternators from the yard, mainly for the ribbed pulleys. They could be yours. free.99.
 
mikep said:
When I started to do this on an L28 I grabbed 2 Ford alternators from the yard, mainly for the ribbed pulleys. They could be yours. free.99.
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:thinking: Interesting. What's the significance of the Ford alternator pulley? Is it the same shaft size as the M90 or something?
 
I wanted to change to the ribbed set-up, and not have v belts for the alternator. It's a high number of ribs, 8 maybe. It's been a while.
 
Funny you mentioned that. Per https://www.pelicanparts.com/techar...GINE-Replacing_Your_Accessory_Drive_Belts.htm, the SLK uses a belt for the supercharger and alternator and another for power steering, AC, and probably the waterpump, whose pulley is off in their picture.
pic02.jpg

In principle I would like to have the essentials -- alternator and waterpump -- in their own belt and the rest in an auxiliary belt, but do not know if that would be feasible. And, sometimes I wonder if it would make sense to have a V-belt free upgrade for our Volvos. But I digress; Dave Barton has pondered on this subject https://www.240turbo.com/alternators.html
 
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dalek said:
Did I miss the picture of how the belt feeding the supercharger is routed?
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Not much to see. Here is a pic when I lifted the engine for a H-beam swap. Bought the SC used as a kit with bracket.

25.jpg
 
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So the pulley for the supercharger was machined to be sleeved inboard of the original crank pulley instead of being attached to the harmonic balancer side of the crank pulley (which would run the risk of being torn down at the rubber interface more often). I take that means a different tool to do timing belt swaps.
 
Lankku said:
Not much to see. Here is a pic when I lifted the engine for a H-beam swap. Bought the SC used as a kit with bracket.
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So is that a solid pulley then? No rubber? How are the harmonics? I'm thinking of ways to do more of a hot rod version of this with a stock damper and welding another pulley to the end. I worry about potential slipping or breaking of the crank key though.
 
dalek said:
So the pulley for the supercharger was machined to be sleeved inboard of the original crank pulley instead of being attached to the harmonic balancer side of the crank pulley (which would run the risk of being torn down at the rubber interface more often). I take that means a different tool to do timing belt swaps.
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Solid. This is a reference to that:

Lankku said:
If you think about a combined aluminium crank pulley for V-belts and serpentine, I'd say don't. If there is any slip, combined with the radiant heat from the crank, the pulley heats up(and expands) so much that it loosens the crank bolt.
Click to expand...


volvowagoon said:
So is that a solid pulley then? No rubber? How are the harmonics? I'm thinking of ways to do more of a hot rod version of this with a stock damper and welding another pulley to the end. I worry about potential slipping or breaking of the crank key though.
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Many use a solid pulley in racing without issues. I'd rather have a damper but on a B2xx it's easier to have a solid pulley with a SC.
 
Good to know. Thanks for all this insight!

Maybe I can keep the existing accessories dampened either by using a separate pulley for the SC that's held on by the same bolt or welding it to the inner section of the damper. Holding it on with the bolt seems like a idea that would get me in trouble in terms of bolt torque and not having enough thread engagement. As for welding, I don't know how I'm going to go about getting the added ribs perfectly concentric.
I guess that would just be a matter of measuring many times before hitting the trigger though. I'm going to have to do a lot of experimentation.

I wish that the KL Racing serpentine pulley had both V-belt grooves, but that piece is already more racey than I really need. I'm not going for fast. I just want better and more fun than NA. I happen to have two laggy turbo cars already, so +T doesn't excite me too much for the Volvo. Kinda funny now that I think about it. I have the turbo on my 3800, and I want an M90 on my B230. :lol: Anyway, I still like the cogged belt idea too, but using a stock or readily available SC pulley system would be ideal. At least with the M90, you have plenty of off-the-shelf pulley sizes and a couple offsets to choose from when you press on a modular hub. Cogged or v-belt stuff would put me on my own and probably won't work too well anyway.

Thanks again for talking about what you did, Lankku! Let me know if my ideas sound like inevitable failure too. :lol:
 
I'd have a small reccess machined in to the stock pulley to center the SC pulley. Also welding cast and steel together on a place like that should be done properly.
 
Lankku said:
I'd have a small reccess machined in to the stock pulley to center the SC pulley. Also welding cast and steel together on a place like that should be done properly.
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Yeah welding cast is kind of sketchy. I like your machining idea a lot better. That would be pretty simple and solid.
 
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