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Old 08-14-2019, 10:51 AM   #1351
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Now that I think of it, I didn't see how high the pressure went, I jsut turned the key on a few times to get the pump to prime, and it was ~40 psi when I walked a couple of feet forward and looked at the pressure gauge (mechanical one on the FPR). I wonder if the FPR is just set *way* too high, pressure spiked, and something popped back by the tank?

I did take the top off the FPR to reclock the manifold reference line, maybe I screwed up something when I put it back on?
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:20 PM   #1352
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It's getting there. Fluids going in. Just a few last things to clear up - mostly doing the wiring in the passenger footwell. Got the clutch bled, it's certainly firmer than the Saab 9000 clutch on the 16VT was, but nothing too hefty. Coolant in, trans oiled up, 5 quarts of oil in. I just need to finish up the scavenge pump piping - going to an oil cap with an AN fitting on it.




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Old 08-31-2019, 07:32 PM   #1353
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Finished up the wiring in the passenger footwell. Fluids in, 2-year-old E85 in the tank. I had just finished up the last wire (which was the starter wire) and decided to reach over and see if it would crank. Certainly wasn't planning on starting it. But it cranked and immediately started up. w00t! I haven't even hooked a tuning laptop up to it, it's running the gold box default tune. I shut it off quickly. Finished up a couple of more things, then fired it up again. Holy hell, it doesn't sound like the 16V did, not at all. It sounds mean.

Then I noticed a huge oil slick coming out from under the car. Turns out I'd finger tightened the PS pressure line. Lol, oops. Brand new PS fluid sprayed all over the place.

Haven't taken it for a drive yet, it started raining again. And the battery was acting dead.
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Old 09-01-2019, 03:56 PM   #1354
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And today? Nothing but hassle and grief with the starter. I got some cheap crapola eBay starter. It's a short truck version, because of the way I have the engine mounts a regular length one won't fit.

Yesterday I just assumed my cute little tiny Braille battery was weak, tired, run down. I started it 3 or 4 times, it was a bit slow to crank. This morning - even slower. So I used jumpers. The jumpers got hot, the starter got hot, and it would barely crank past one compression before it stalled out. After making sure that the engine would, in fact, turn around with anormal amount of effort using a ratchet on the crank pulley. I took the starter out, very hot, tested it, it spins. Put it back in, clunk, groan, not quite enough oomph to turn the motor over, but using LOTS of current.

So I bought an actual AC Delco brand name starter, going to pick that up and hope that it works better than the $55 ebay special.
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Old 09-01-2019, 06:20 PM   #1355
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Annnnnd yeah, don't buy eBay starters. Wasted a whole day messing with a bad starter, thinking it was something else. Put a non-crap starter in and it cranks normally, fires right up when the starter isn't pulling so much current that the voltage drops to 3 or 4 volts.

I still have a half tank of 2 year old E85 - the car so far seems to be pretty happy with it. Let it warm up and fogged the mosquitoes with heater wrap smoke. Fixed a couple of small leaks from loose fittings here and there, nothing too exciting. Nothing like it dumping a quart of oil out in a few seconds like the first time. The fans kicked on, hoovered around 190 degrees just sitting there.

Still haven't taken it for a drive around the block yet, though. But at least it actually starts up like it's supposed to, instead of straining and overheating wires, battery, starter just trying to turn the motor over.
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Old 09-02-2019, 12:00 PM   #1356
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Youíre going to find that swapping to an Ls is going to loose a ton of headaches you were having with the 16v redblock. These engines are just easy to work on and solve issues. Tons of aftermarket options. Iíve had mine for 4 year and no issues. Just get in and go with working ac. I love it.
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Old 09-02-2019, 09:29 PM   #1357
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Took it on a short drive, and (ahem) promptly blew off both the lower coolant hose (crappy stripped hose clamp) and the power steering line, in short order. Yeah... I guess I didn't quite look at the PSI specs on that black hose I used all over the place. Good for every thing (oil/fuel/coolant) except that much pressure.

Anyhow, fixed all that, drove it about 10 miles, it's a rough tune so far, not getting into any boost. But it feels pretty fun. Not the entertaining off boost-ON BoOST feel that the 16V turbo had, but maybe it's pretty close in HP already with no boost.
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Old 09-02-2019, 10:30 PM   #1358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
Took it on a short drive, and (ahem) promptly blew off both the lower coolant hose (crappy stripped hose clamp) and the power steering line, in short order. Yeah... I guess I didn't quite look at the PSI specs on that black hose I used all over the place. Good for every thing (oil/fuel/coolant) except that much pressure.

Anyhow, fixed all that, drove it about 10 miles, it's a rough tune so far, not getting into any boost. But it feels pretty fun. Not the entertaining off boost-ON BoOST feel that the 16V turbo had, but maybe it's pretty close in HP already with no boost.
At least the engine won't break as many times as the 16vt did
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Old 09-02-2019, 10:31 PM   #1359
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That is the hope. More HP, less rebuilding.
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Old 09-02-2019, 10:47 PM   #1360
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Old 09-03-2019, 09:15 AM   #1361
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Yass. Great looking wagon.
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Old 09-03-2019, 09:23 AM   #1362
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And I get to ponder what ratio to put in the Ford axle while I drive it around with the Volvo 3.73. If I google around, that's pretty close to the 3.692:1 ratio the donor cars have:
Quote:
6sp Manual
-- 1st: 3.794
-- 2nd: 2.324
-- 3rd: 1.624
-- 4th: 1.271
-- 5th: 1.000
-- 6th: 0.794
-- Reverse: 3.446
-- Final Drive: 3.692:1
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Old 09-03-2019, 10:08 AM   #1363
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ooof that .79 OD. I swapped to a 3.31 with the .75 final in the 4L80e to get the highway revs down below annoying(to me), so.. ymmv and what not.
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Old 09-03-2019, 10:24 AM   #1364
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The LS certainly doesn't need revs to make power, lol. *grunt* I was just sort of idling up hills this morning at 1500 rpm.

Looks about like 3000 rpm at 80 mph, +/- a few. it could probably stand to be more relaxed than that. And 1st gear feels a bit short.
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Old 09-03-2019, 11:23 AM   #1365
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Brah. That engine bay looks clean! I’m jealous.
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Old 09-03-2019, 11:28 AM   #1366
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I was in a bit of a rush and I hooked the wastegates up to the manifold pressure. Which isn't really correct. I need to pull the compressor housing off and drill/tap it for a couple of fittings.
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Old 09-04-2019, 08:58 AM   #1367
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It's still leaking some PS fluid from somewhere, need to figure that out. And I think my cute little dipstick got a bit too hot yesterday - where it snakes up through the header. I was using something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-GM-LS...UAAOSwip5cNL6F

And I guess it's not supposed to get too toasty. I have the header's wrapped. The original dipstick tube just didn't fit. And I thought this flexible one which can easily be tucked where it needs to go would be a good idea. Lol, no. I guess I'll mangle the original one back and forth until it (sort of) fits. Certainly, there's nothing that will get too hot on a steel tube and a steel dipstick.

Also, that stock 197 degree thermostat is making me a bit nervous. Hotter than I feel comfortable with. And a lot of heat soak when you turn it off. And not only that but I have a suspicion that I ended up using the wrong thermostat. Since it looked good and functional I went ahead and used it. But when searching for a lower temp thermostat yesterday I found that there are short and long thermostats. And the later ones are a bit shorter, used from roughly 2007/2008 on up. And the earlier ones were a bit longer, used on earlier versions. And I used the thermostat that came with my 2008 LH8 Hummer motor, which is probably a short one. And I'm using a 2005-2008 Corvette water pump, which probably uses the longer version. The thermostat function itself works fine (it does clearly regulate at 200 degrees) but I'm thinking that it's not long enough to close off that bypass port, so a lot of the coolant is just going in circles in the block.

It's a bit on the warm side here, not thing too bad, mid 90's(ish). And I don't have too many miles on it so far, but I had noticed a tendency for it to start getting a bit warm under the collar when romped on a bit, only slowly cooling back down after some gentle driving. I'm hoping that's the wrong thermostat doing that. I have a big full width radiator in there (28X16), with two cooling fans that seem to move a lot of air. I'd like to think that's enough radiator to work.
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Old 09-04-2019, 09:23 PM   #1368
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Quote:
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The LS certainly doesn't need revs to make power, lol. *grunt* I was just sort of idling up hills this morning at 1500 rpm.

Looks about like 3000 rpm at 80 mph, +/- a few. it could probably stand to be more relaxed than that. And 1st gear feels a bit short.
Oof, thats horrible. With my 4l60 and a 3.73 rear end I'm at like 2600 at 80.

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Also, that stock 197 degree thermostat is making me a bit nervous.
why is everyone so scared of the factory thermostats on these engine? GM stuck in there for a reason
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Old 09-04-2019, 09:41 PM   #1369
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Yeah, I'm just waiting a while to pick out a ratio for the Ford 8.8, certainly not going to change anything on the Volvo axle in the meantime.

I think GM was doing the 200 degree engine temps for emissions. Or something. Dunno, it would be sort of nice to have a little more headroom if you start outstripping the cooling system under hard use. I think the couple of slight bouts with overheating are all related to the wrong thermostat thing, though.

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Old 09-05-2019, 09:48 AM   #1370
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That crappy dipstick did a little more damage than I first thought. I spent yesterday evening taking things off the passenger side of the engine. Some of the smoke I saw was apparently some burning insulation and oil. I burned up a couple of sparkplug wires inside their sleeves, and the starter and knock sensor wiring. Damn dipstick.

Also, the cheap eBay header wrap I got was falling apart already for some reason. Couldn't handle the heat? I got some more expensive stuff that can handle 2500 degrees (in theory). And some different spark plug wires. And some 2500 degree sleeves for them. The freaking dipstick thing is starting to irk me. I'm using Hummer H3 engine mount brackets that move the engine 1.25 inches forward, which helps with a variety of other fitment issues (from the trans to the turbo to the steering colum/header), but that combined with the STS moor mounts means that the dipstick has very little room, it's tucked partly under the mount and it has to come out at an angle. And then there's the starter *right* there too.
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:56 AM   #1371
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Also - I apparently cracked the pivot ball in my CBF shifter. There's a plastic ball that slides up on the shifter and engages a pin on the shifter itself, and then that slides into a couple of pins in the shifter housing. Is that a common design? Dunno. But it's a hard plastic ball that handles all the twisting forces applied to the shifter. Normally - what twisting forces? None! But I have a shifter relocation thing - it bolts onto the shifter over there, and reaches sideways over the here (imagine hand gestures) to put the shifter knob right where it's supposed to be - even though the CBF shifter is a bit too far forward and to the left. And when I bolted that onto the shifter, apparently I got a little too happy with the wrench, put too much force on the ball, and cracked it in half. Still surprisingly drivable, but it had more wiggle. And with 6 gears and reverse all packed into a few inches of movement... not great. I messaged the CBF guy, he's sending me a f-replacment.
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Old 09-05-2019, 10:04 AM   #1372
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Also - I apparently cracked the pivot ball in my CBF shifter. There's a plastic ball that slides up on the shifter and engages a pin on the shifter itself, and then that slides into a couple of pins in the shifter housing. Is that a common design? Dunno. But it's a hard plastic ball that handles all the twisting forces applied to the shifter. Normally - what twisting forces? None! But I have a shifter relocation thing - it bolts onto the shifter over there, and reaches sideways over the here (imagine hand gestures) to put the shifter knob right where it's supposed to be - even though the CBF shifter is a bit too far forward and to the left. And when I bolted that onto the shifter, apparently I got a little too happy with the wrench, put too much force on the ball, and cracked it in half. Still surprisingly drivable, but it had more wiggle. And with 6 gears and reverse all packed into a few inches of movement... not great. I messaged the CBF guy, he's sending me a f-replacment.
Great! You should get the replacement part next summer!
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Old 09-05-2019, 02:53 PM   #1373
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I messaged him on FB and got a quick reply. And an offer to replace it for free. I wonder if other people had issues with them. At least this time around I'll know to be *careful* when tightening down that shifter arm.
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Old 09-06-2019, 08:56 AM   #1374
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And I was using a cheap as hell eBay special oil scavenge pump. Which made horrible noises. And leaked oil. And generally made me nervous about it failing under sustained use (which would be bad). So I chickened out and got a Turbowerx scavenge pump. Which was not dirt cheap, but looks nice, has cooling fins, and is almost totally silent and is designed to be run dry for long periods of time (if need be). And presumably doesn't leak.
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Old 09-06-2019, 09:39 AM   #1375
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a scavenge pump for what? the turbo?

I swapped in a colder thermostat on mine (180 I think? maybe 170?), it still has a tendency to get warm on the interstate with the a/c on and a yoooge radiator. It's worth noting that while GM may have put those in from the factory for a reason (emissions), they also didn't turbocharge the engines from the factory either, and with headers and crossovers and what not, there's a lot of extra heat hanging out under-hood.

Another thing to keep in mind, and I didn't know this.. if you're using volvo heater control valve and such, apparently there's some kind of coolant block that allows it to bypass the valve and return. not sure if you've heard about that or not (there's so much information out there it's hard to separate the wheat from the chaff), but that could be part of it too. I didn't know about the different length thermostats. I think I checked mine, but hell I dunno. I reckon I'll take a gander later this fall when I take it all apart for R&R
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