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#1 |
Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Vancouver Island
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![]() Welp... down the rabbit hole I go.
Swapping the rear axle on the Volstang is starting look like a “while I’m there” type of job and the list of parts is starting to pile-up. Going with the IPD treatment... would really like to go with Kaplhenke or Yoshifab parts but, I had to convince myself many times “I’m not racing it” So... IPD panhard and torque rods. That’s pretty much cut and dry. I’m also boxing the trailing arms. A few questions to that regard. Haven’t decided if I’m going to refurbish a set of used trailing arms or just buy some new cheap Dormans. Would like to just buy the Yohifab plates unfortunately that’s going to cost me extra cash to ship them to the north yonder. Is there a set of instructions on fabricating plates and boxing the trailing arms? Something I can give to the fabrication shop. Bushings! What’s the best way to go with the trailing arm bushings? OE rubber or polyurethane or is there something else? |
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#2 |
50 shades of beige
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
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![]() If it were me and I weren't going to pony up for a nice set of torque rods... I would just save the $$$ and replace the bushings in the stock arms.
STAY AWAY FROM POLY ON THE TRAILING ARMS.
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#3 |
Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
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![]() ^this. Rubber or spherical bearings for the axle to trailing arms bushes.
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#4 |
Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Vancouver Island
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![]() I wasn’t going to get them initially and I probably don’t “need” them. I want them to fine tune drive shaft alignment. It’s vibraty back there with all that V8 torque... most likely a combination of things like my suspicion of having busted diff cross shafts. Nothing wrong with extra adjustments to get this beast smooth down the road.
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#5 | |
50 shades of beige
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
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![]() Quote:
I sell plenty of parts to people who are upgrading from the IPD stuff. If you want a smooth driving experience... I don't think you are going the right direction. |
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#6 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Vancouver Island
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![]() Quote:
That’s good to know. Still on the fence about the spherical bushings on the trailing arms. I want to go that way... then I enter the realm of going “all the way” with a helm joint torque rod and panhard... Unless I cheap out on the panhard. Unless your telling my the spherical bushings work well with the OE rubber torque rod bushings? It’s the freight that is killer for me... Last edited by BeaverMeat; 10-23-2020 at 03:37 PM.. |
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#7 | |
50 shades of beige
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
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![]() Quote:
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#8 |
Been here for too long
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Edmonton AB
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![]() The old IPD torque rods had a habit of coming loose. Did they ever fix that issue? Probably not. I'd skip their torque rods.
Jordan
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80 242- 2.5L 16V, NIW intake/exhaust, T5, Porsche brakes, short billies and Kaplenkhe suspension, Trutrack. Project Thread- http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=324470 |
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#9 |
Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Vancouver Island
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#10 |
Ronald Culberbone III
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, OR
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![]() You can make your own for slightly more than the IPD ones. They're a nice compromise between poly and sphericals.
Just add a ~12" long connector section (might need an 11", I can't remember) Note: you'll need the right and left threaded ones. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/roc-rk02801l https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ibanner=SREPD4
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Cult Person. Pissing in your Kool-Aid. |
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#11 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Vancouver Island
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![]() Quote:
Perhaps modifying the OE set if possible. |
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