home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > performance & modifications

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-01-2021, 12:17 PM   #1
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default 240 T5 with 3.5" alloy foxbody driveshaft

Hello all,
I have almost completed collecting all the bits and bobs for my T5 swap. I plan to buy a new "Ford Performance Parts Super-Duty T-5" and replace the 0.63 5th gear with the commonly available 0.80 "road race" ratio. Any experience with this here?

For the driveshaft, I know the modified/custom 2 piece shaft seems to the way to go nvh-wise, but I want a bolt in deal to start with. I bought the yoshifab mustang foxbody driveshaft adapter and am looking at new driveshafts and the only new things that seem to be available online are 3.5" aluminum dealios. Will it fit? Can I make it fit?

Thx,
Ethan
__________________
1991 244 LH2.4 M46 360k miles
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 12:41 PM   #2
blkaplan
50 shades of beige
 
blkaplan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
Default

Id opt for a 3" aluminum single piece. Thats hard enough to fit in a 240.. 3.5 is going to require tunnel reconstruction if you are gonna be low.
__________________
www.BEIGEPOWER.com
Kaplhenke Racing Facebook
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkKratoz View Post
The only safe bet is Ben.©
blkaplan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 12:56 PM   #3
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

I am running a 3" one-piece steel driveshaft.
The stock Foxbody driveshaft works, but is a bit on the short side.
I was able to find a slightly longer off-the-shelf driveshaft, but from some brief searching it looks like options have become more limited.
I'd recommend either having a shop make you one from scratch or buying something like this to start with.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/U-Wel...OD,332353.html


Also may want to add a large slip yoke damper to your list to prevent decel rattle.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...oke-f6zz4841ba
__________________
-Mike
1998 V70 T5
1979 242 DL 16v

|Feedback|

Last edited by oldschoolvolvo; 06-02-2021 at 06:57 AM..
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 02:11 PM   #4
dbarton
Dejected by Volvo
 
dbarton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: North of Dallas
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by esmth View Post
Hello all,
I have almost completed collecting all the bits and bobs for my T5 swap. I plan to buy a new "Ford Performance Parts Super-Duty T-5" and replace the 0.63 5th gear with the commonly available 0.80 "road race" ratio. Any experience with this here?
My 240 has a 3.91 rear diff and that same trans. I swapped the 0.63 5th for a 0.72. This changed my highway cruising at 75 mph from 2500 to 2850 rpm (215/45-17 tires), which still works for me and my long cross-country road trips.

Not sure what diff you have, but if you have 3.73, then your 75 mph cruise would be in the neighborhood of 2400 rpm with 0.63 5th, 2700 rpm with a 0.72 5th. And about 3000 rpm with 0.80 5th.
Dave
__________________


'84 242ti, fourth owner, mine since 2003. Always garaged since brand new. Old-school rounds because I like. B21FT, SDS EFI/IGN, TD04HL-15G, T5Z trans with modded 0.73 OD, 3.91 diff, unmodified G80.
Volvo Ambivalence of Volvo Enthusiast Community: prancingmoose.com/#novolvo
Dave's Volvo Page: davebarton.com
240 Mods and Fixes Pages: 240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html
dbarton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 02:18 PM   #5
gsellstr
Vintage anti-ricer
 
gsellstr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Somewhere in a northern California smog bank
Default

Go hit Coleman Racing for a 3" shaft, also a touch longer than the foxbody which is 45.5 c-c. I went 47" c-c when I had a 1pc, using a bolt-on Spicer flange on the back, no adapter, and it fit really nicely. I will probably be going back that route down the road as well, since the 2pc does nothing for the vibration. The magic fix seems to be the Mustang/Ranger yoke with the big balancer. I'm trying to hunt one of those down now.
__________________
RIP
Doug Williams "Mr. Doug" 4/15/2009
Pete Fluitman "fivehundred" 7/14/2013
Mick Starkey "TrickMick" 1/10/14
Mark Baldwin "blue850t5" 7/19/18
Nick Fengler "fengler" 8/6/18
Thomas Fritz "stealthfti" 10/11/18


74 144 B20
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=224983

90 745Ti
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=334698

If you need Superpro bushings PM me for price and availability!
gsellstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 04:21 PM   #6
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
3.5 is going to require tunnel reconstruction if you are gonna be low.
ah damn. i'm not that low though. I am actually thinking about getting softer and lengthier springs for my coilovers at some point this summer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
Also may want to add a large slip yoke damper to your list to prevent decel rattle.
if i were going with the generic alloy mustang shaft i'd try going with the included solid yoke at first but the shafts on coleman racing shafts linked below don't include them so I might as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarton View Post
Not sure what diff you have, but if you have 3.73, then your 75 mph cruise would be in the neighborhood of 2400 rpm with 0.63 5th, 2700 rpm with a 0.72 5th. And about 3000 rpm with 0.80 5th.
I do have 3.73, the car was originally an auto. I'm not too worried about high speed cruise, this is more of an around town/hilly backroads kind of car. The 0.79 5th and 3.73 as it is right now is pretty perfect for my uses, but the rest of the m46 ratios/gear spread suck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gsellstr View Post
Go hit Coleman Racing for a 3" shaft
I never could have imagined a custom length shaft would be cheaper than the mass produced foxbody ones. Nice, this might be my best bet. It does look like I need the yoke and diff flange separate.
Think 46" or 46.5" is good for a stockish height car, along with the mustang adapter + flange? Or can i get a shaft that uses the stock volvo diff flange?
I do notice they sell lightened low-hp steel shafts with seem perfect for my car, too.
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 05:44 PM   #7
283SD
Board Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Default

Tunnel clearance will be an issue with the big drive shaft,if it is one piece if you lower it. The drive shaft in my V8 car is a two piece made from a '62 Caddy, steel tubes, 300K miles later no problems. Made it up myself.
283SD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 06:31 PM   #8
gsellstr
Vintage anti-ricer
 
gsellstr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Somewhere in a northern California smog bank
Default

Post #2 here might help...
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=321237

That flange, a 47" c-c shaft, and the Mustang/Ranger big damper yoke and you should be good for a clean setup, limited vibrations, and with a 3" you'll have a much easier time clearing the tunnel than with the 3.5". In the 140 I had an issue with the 3" on hard bumps hitting the seat belt bolt in the middle of the tunnel until I raised the back end up a little. It's about 3/4-1" lower than stock and I had no issues with clearance. That may also change a little if you have to drop the trans a little to clear the balancer.
gsellstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 08:10 PM   #9
122power
dude
 
122power's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Where have all the quad squares gone? VV,Ca
Default

I have the 47" tube and its works well. Not the coleman but that is the right length. Gives about 1" or so of slip yoke travel. Reg output shaft and no vibrations that i can tell in a lemons car anyway that sees 2nd 3rd and 4th gear quite a bit.
__________________
Save the Volvo's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Ring,ring,ring

"Hello"

"Do you work on Volvo ...

*Click - bzzzzzz*
122power is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 08:49 PM   #10
carver
Involvoed
 
carver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle
Default

Have the Coleman 47" aluminum driveshaft with Ranger Rear-Slip Yoke (F6ZZ4841BA) on the 245, works excellent.
carver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2021, 10:15 PM   #11
James M
Bored member
 
James M's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Davis, CA
Default

Coleman 47" in one car and mustang SN95 driveshaft in the other, clearance is much better with the Coleman shaft (2.5") with the car pretty low.

If your going to tear it down why not buy a junkyard unit and inspect it well/replace anything boarderline while your in there.

Last edited by James M; 06-01-2021 at 10:21 PM..
James M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2021, 09:21 AM   #12
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

looks like 47" is the way to go. just to be sure, this is without the yoshi adapter, and with the ranger dampened yoke (it looks slightly longer than standard t5 slip yoke) and with the spicer 1310 diff flange?

I see in the thread linked post #2 as mentioned spicer 2-2-237 yoke diff flange but i cannot find that anywhere. I found spicer 2-2-329 which looks like it lines up with what bobxyz measured on his car in that same thread. I'll have to measure myself on mine to be sure.

Thx for all replies and input so far

Last edited by esmth; 06-02-2021 at 09:31 AM.. Reason: broken link
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2021, 09:28 AM   #13
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by James M View Post
If your going to tear it down why not buy a junkyard unit and inspect it well/replace anything boarderline while your in there.
i've went back and forth internally whether i'd buy new or used and rebuild it. Though it seems difficult to find the 2.95 first gearset around here, (the 3.35 1st seems to be plentiful still) along with the fact that 2.95 first T-5's have a good chance of being abused/ridden right at/above their torque limit their entire life. I'm just gonna cut my losses and get a new one and correctly set the preload and install my 5th gearset.
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2021, 12:19 PM   #14
blkaplan
50 shades of beige
 
blkaplan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by esmth View Post
ah damn. i'm not that low though. I am actually thinking about getting softer and lengthier springs for my coilovers at some point this summer.
If you want to run that drive shaft, id recommend raising your bumpstops. Dont underestimate how badly matched it is for the task at hand.

even at stock ride height you will have problems.
blkaplan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2021, 02:43 PM   #15
gsellstr
Vintage anti-ricer
 
gsellstr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Somewhere in a northern California smog bank
Default

That 2-2-237 may have been superceded to another part number. That was actually on the box when I got mine but that's been many years. The other thing is, there's a good number of cars that run that 1310 joint with the same pattern. Hell, my wagon and the 240 shaft I have in the 140 have 1310 rear joints, so you may want to measure your existing flange, see if you even need to buy a flange. 3.219" cap to cap, 1.062" cap diameter.

I can't vouch for the length on the Ranger yoke yet, haven't had one in my hands to play with.
gsellstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2021, 07:53 PM   #16
carver
Involvoed
 
carver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Seattle
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gsellstr View Post
That 2-2-237 may have been superceded to another part number. That was actually on the box when I got mine but that's been many years. The other thing is, there's a good number of cars that run that 1310 joint with the same pattern. Hell, my wagon and the 240 shaft I have in the 140 have 1310 rear joints, so you may want to measure your existing flange, see if you even need to buy a flange. 3.219" cap to cap, 1.062" cap diameter.

I can't vouch for the length on the Ranger yoke yet, haven't had one in my hands to play with.
Yeah part number is Spicer 2-2-329 for a 1310 u-joint. They changed it.
carver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2021, 10:58 AM   #17
esmth
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: MA/NH
Default

ok, i've completely abandoned the idea of the 3.5 mustange shaft. Thx for input!
This weekend i'll measure my current diff flanges to see if mine takes a normal 1310 or to make sure the new pn spicer flange works. And maybe try to measure for myself an approx length for the ds.
esmth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2021, 01:34 PM   #18
gsellstr
Vintage anti-ricer
 
gsellstr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Somewhere in a northern California smog bank
Default

Please let us know what ends up working on that Ranger shaft setup. I'm kinda curious if it changes things over the normal Mustang yoke.
gsellstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2021, 11:56 PM   #19
Nickagriffin
Board Member
 
Nickagriffin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Va
Default

Doesn't the F6ZZ4841BA Ranger damper take a 1330 U joint? Meaning it wouldn't work with the Spicer 2-2-329 flange and a Coleman 1310 shaft? I looked up the part number and drivetrainamerica.com called it Ford Slip Yoke 1330 Ranger Mustang. I'm assuming the 1330 means 1330 U joint.

Also, I am running a SN95 driveshaft currently with a damper and it rubs on my tunnel like crazy. I have no idea if the the ranger slip yoke is the same part, but I literally had to cut the outer part of the damper off to get it to clear at all. If it is the same slip yoke, I would not recommend using it.
Nickagriffin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2021, 03:00 AM   #20
gsellstr
Vintage anti-ricer
 
gsellstr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Somewhere in a northern California smog bank
Default

There are adapter u-joints to go from 1330 to 1310. I also did find a 1310 based yoke in a Ranger, haven't found a part number for it yet, but it did have the big damper, just not the big joints.
gsellstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2021, 11:25 AM   #21
Nickagriffin
Board Member
 
Nickagriffin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Va
Default

Does the 2-2-329 flange come in a variation with 1330 joints? If so, it would be super easy just to have the whole shaft running 1330 joints right?

I've been looking around at non dampened yokes just because my SN95 damped rubbed so bad. The part number I found is DANA SPICER 2-3-4871X. I also found DANA SPICER 2-3-8251X. The only difference that I can see is the 8251 yoke is half an inch longer. I think 4871 is the right slip yoke but was hoping somebody could confirm before I ordered it.
Nickagriffin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2021, 11:48 AM   #22
gsellstr
Vintage anti-ricer
 
gsellstr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Somewhere in a northern California smog bank
Default

The 2-2-239 is the part number for a specific 1310 flange, but there should be another variant for the 1330. Thing is, that also means running a 3.5" shaft, which is pretty big for that tunnel.

You can look at the 96 Aerostar yoke as well, which has a damper but not nearly as big as the Ranger one. It might help without being quite as big. I'm not sure where you were having rub issues though...
gsellstr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2021, 12:53 PM   #23
Nickagriffin
Board Member
 
Nickagriffin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Va
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gsellstr View Post
The 2-2-239 is the part number for a specific 1310 flange, but there should be another variant for the 1330. Thing is, that also means running a 3.5" shaft, which is pretty big for that tunnel.

You can look at the 96 Aerostar yoke as well, which has a damper but not nearly as big as the Ranger one. It might help without being quite as big. I'm not sure where you were having rub issues though...
Oh ok, I didn't know running 1330 joints meant you have to run a 3.5 shaft. I tried a 3.5 shaft and it didn't work out well...

I'll do some research on the aerostar yoke, thanks for the tip.
Nickagriffin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2021, 11:44 PM   #24
Nickagriffin
Board Member
 
Nickagriffin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Va
Default

Couldn't find much on the aerostar yoke, so I just went with the DANA SPICER 2-3-8251X slip yoke. I think 6.5" is the correct length with a 47" shaft. Hopefully I'm right.

Will report back when installed and let yall know about vibrations.
Nickagriffin is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:01 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.