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Old 05-24-2021, 05:33 PM   #1
volvoracer82
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Default cable type clutch fork broke, hoping for a solution

I can't seem to find a resolution by searching for what anyone has done about the cable type clutch fork and it being too weak to last with a stiff pressure plate. am I missing something or is this just a case of the replace it with another when it bends/breaks situations, or is there a beefier one, or a good modification. I know I could just weld some angle or flat bar on, and if that's the cheapest thing, so be it. I will be doing an internal slave at some point (not likely able to do an external slave since the pivot mount was mostly machined off), but I need to figure something out as a placeholder that I can rely on till I can do the major change. the one in the car that broke is original from 1983.
current setup is a T-5 with the triangles unlimited adaptor plate and a machined bellhousing, stock fork with a McLeod Racing adjustable throwout bearing, STS cable sleeve, stock course thread adjustment cable, Yoshifab 235mm FX400 pressure plate and billet flywheel
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Old 05-24-2021, 05:34 PM   #2
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You are stuck with boxing a stocker, I'm afraid.
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Old 05-24-2021, 06:26 PM   #3
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Can you run a hydraulic throw out bearing?
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Old 05-25-2021, 12:03 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by 740atl View Post
Can you run a hydraulic throw out bearing?
there are conversion kits for mustangs that come with everything including the master and all the stuff under the dash, this one is more universal and plan on making work in my car. but like I said in the original post, I don't have time to get that hydro set up sorted out yet.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/H...sku=HAY-82-100
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Old 05-25-2021, 12:26 PM   #5
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Best of luck. I didn't have an issue sorting a master, hoses and parts from speedway racing and summit racing.

Before you plunk down change on the hayes unit, check out this first. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=357178

The tilton bearing is amazing.
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Old 05-25-2021, 01:45 PM   #6
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I remember WAY back, Toby had issues on Goldie as well. Cracked at least one, finally welded a ton of bracing onto a new one and that held. It worked really well while the car sat as well. lol
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Old 05-25-2021, 03:04 PM   #7
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same. I resorted to just bracing the stock unit when I had these issues back in the day.
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Old 05-25-2021, 05:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 740atl View Post
Can you run a hydraulic throw out bearing?
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Originally Posted by 740atl View Post
Best of luck. I didn't have an issue sorting a master, hoses and parts from speedway racing and summit racing.

Before you plunk down change on the hayes unit, check out this first. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=357178

The tilton bearing is amazing.
good to know, thanks for the link.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gsellstr View Post
I remember WAY back, Toby had issues on Goldie as well. Cracked at least one, finally welded a ton of bracing onto a new one and that held. It worked really well while the car sat as well. lol
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Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
same. I resorted to just bracing the stock unit when I had these issues back in the day.
yeah, I am getting a good used fork from Ansel, and will just do the welding thing. I can figure out where to weld to it, but if someone has pictures, I'd still like to look at them. I like seeing things that could give ideas or help if I didn't think of something, so please post those if you guys have them

then the next weak point is probably going to be the firewall or pedal and/or box.
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Old 05-25-2021, 06:57 PM   #9
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I have thought about stronger forks... but then I think about the cable its attached to. Is that gonna start snapping?
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Old 05-25-2021, 07:53 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
I have thought about stronger forks... but then I think about the cable its attached to. Is that gonna start snapping?
Why not make both? Strong cables are not a thing...
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Old 05-26-2021, 12:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
I have thought about stronger forks... but then I think about the cable its attached to. Is that gonna start snapping?
I'd rather be changing a cable than the fork right now. I keep a spare in the trunk just in case, that could be done in a parking lot in an hour and be back on the road. fork, not so much.

out of those cables that have snapped, how old and abused are they when they go? the cable in my car is old and doesn't show signs of snapping, at least not at the ends where I have seen them commonly fail. I broke one with a stock clutch years ago, likely because the cable may have been grabbed with a pliers or wire cutter at one time in it's life.
I would imagine the cable setup is not as popular as hydro, so maybe this is a moot point, but if someone wants some reliability in a cable type, I would make the fork a reliable part. I know the pedal has its weakness as well, so maybe there is a solution to that too? I know STS does hydro pedals, anyone doing cable pedals that I don't know about?
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Old 05-26-2021, 09:08 AM   #12
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I just converted to a hydraulic setup with my 400ft-lb clutch. How much clutch are you trying to run?
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Old 05-26-2021, 04:01 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by DurableSwedish View Post
I just converted to a hydraulic setup with my 400ft-lb clutch. How much clutch are you trying to run?
I've been running the Yoshi 235mm FX400 which is rated at 495 lb. ft. for a little over 2 years now. I'm just trying to get by as long as I can till I can do a hydro. the only reason I want to go hydro is because the cable setup is not the best for wear. If I can get everything other than the cable to be more reliable, I might not switch, I don't mind the pedal pressure, or replacing a cable here and there, it comes down to reliability.
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Old 05-27-2021, 11:10 AM   #14
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I never snapped a clutch cable with a clutch that held up to 350whp...
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Old 05-27-2021, 11:35 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by RvolvoR View Post
I never snapped a clutch cable with a clutch that held up to 350whp...
yeah, the cable is the least of by worries weather it snaps or not.
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