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#1 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Florida
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![]() I recently bought an alternator for my ‘88 244 & it came non-functional. It’s a Remy brand remanufactured alt & I’ll be returning it within a few days. With that being mentioned, what alternator would you fellow forum members recommend? I have this one currently on my watchlist & was wanting to know if it would be a good purchase? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/140-Amp-Vol...-127632-2357-0)
Thank you.
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El Volvito |
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#2 |
Stage 1
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Austria
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![]() Why do you need an alternator with such high amperage? Unless you have loads of accessories installed and really need it, that's way too much.
Are you sure everything else in the circuit is fine (grounds, exciter circuit etc.) before ruling out the alternator?
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#3 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Florida
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![]() Yes, everything else has been ruled out. Days of electrical testing & an alt bulb replacement has led me to the decision. As well as my mechanic also saying it’s my alt. I tried replacing the regulator as well & it didn’t change my situation. My previous thread explains the entire situation. I also wasn’t really aware what having an alternator with more amps really means, does it put more strain on the electrical system?
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#4 |
Old and boxy but good.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
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![]() That's a fair price imo for a 140 amp alternator. The stock alternator is 80 amps for your car. With all the extra amperage you'll be able to run some extra lights and more accessories. If you want to afford it that's a good upgrade.
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Dave, 1982 242 turbo. 338k miles. MVP coilovers and 3" exhaust. Flowed 405 with a V15. Cossie turbine housing with upgraded compressor housing. 90+, IPD remote oil filter. Some other goodness, too. Been lots of fun over 25 years. Restored in 2k. Now ready for a 2nd restoration. 1993 245 Classic, 440k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47. ![]() |
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#5 |
PV Abuser
![]() Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
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![]() Pick-n-pull 940 100A Denso works pretty well, and is really cheap. If you can find one, that is.
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'63 PV Rat Rod '93 245 16VT Classic #1141 |
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#6 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Upstate, NY
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![]() Would the + and - cables need to be upgraded to a larger gauge to support a 140 amp alternator?
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#7 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Florida
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#8 |
Old and boxy but good.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
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![]() The need for upgrading the cables is based on what accessories you plan on adding to the original current load. If you are going to add a lot of high power stuff then yes upgrade those cables. If you aren't going to add much you'll be fine.
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#9 |
Board Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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![]() I got one for $20 from the local yard. It worked great.
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#10 |
Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Boulder CO
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![]() The big cables directly off the battery to the starter/engine are already sized to start the car (hundreds of amps). If you really have 140Amps of accessories (efan, search lights, A/C, earthquake stereo, arc welder), you might want to upgrade the smaller battery+ to junction box cable, the alternator-to-starter + cable, and the short alternator- to ground cable. They're probably ~10 gauge now, and going to 8 gauge would keep the voltage drop under a volt. Just make sure you crimp them really well.
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#11 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Florida
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