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Old 01-27-2022, 12:29 PM   #1
VolvoLatAm
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Default ipd anti-sway bar kit differences

This kit contains a larger (25mm/1 inch) rear bar for vehicles that are going to be lowered or are driven by enthusiast that wants more roll resistance, and understands they may encounter some oversteer in extreme cornering.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4856...lvo-Ipd-100987

vs

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4718...lvo-Ipd-100986

anybody have any experience?

is there anybody with a 28mm kit?

Last edited by VolvoLatAm; 01-27-2022 at 12:38 PM..
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Old 01-27-2022, 01:25 PM   #2
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I use the 25/22 setup on my wagon. I use the 25/25 setup on my turbo sedan. Like them both a lot.

I don't think the 28mm bar is available anymore but there is a 27mm bar available with Classic Swede that has the center dropped for V8 swaps.
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Old 01-27-2022, 01:31 PM   #3
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I ran 28/25 for a long time, now running 28/19. Car is a little less likely to step out with the 19 which is good.

I see a lot of people say to run no rear bar, I do not agree on a street car.
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Old 01-27-2022, 02:31 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Stiggy Pop View Post
I ran 28/25 for a long time, now running 28/19. Car is a little less likely to step out with the 19 which is good.

I see a lot of people say to run no rear bar, I do not agree on a street car.
A small bar is always a good idea, keeps some triangulation in the system. Without one, the rear end feels akin to having a worn bushing.

I'm actually planning on stepping down from 19 to 16mm. Rear end still struggles with traction.

To OP: 25/25mm bars only seem to work with stock springs. The 25mm rear bar binds up the rear end with lowering/stiffer springs.
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Old 01-27-2022, 02:38 PM   #5
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I'm actually planning on stepping down from 19 to 16mm. Rear end still struggles with traction.
same, but currently I'm blaming that more on a 76mm turbo, 225 section tires and a g80
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Old 01-27-2022, 03:04 PM   #6
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Yeah even with the helical LSD, 225s (PS4Ss) aren’t much help for me either
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Old 01-27-2022, 03:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
A small bar is always a good idea, keeps some triangulation in the system. Without one, the rear end feels akin to having a worn bushing.

I'm actually planning on stepping down from 19 to 16mm. Rear end still struggles with traction.

To OP: 25/25mm bars only seem to work with stock springs. The 25mm rear bar binds up the rear end with lowering/stiffer springs.
I ran 25/25 on stiffer springs and poly bushings for a bit, not a fun time.
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Old 01-28-2022, 11:23 AM   #8
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I've been driving so long with no rear bar, it feels funny to me with even a 16mm bar, but mine is 90% autocross use.
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Old 01-28-2022, 12:13 PM   #9
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28-23
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how psi stock cna sprout?


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Old 01-28-2022, 05:35 PM   #10
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I have the 1" rear bar on the V8 wagon, IPD made it special with two humps for my dual exhaust, this was back in '89. It was most notable in the handling of the car. When I put Koni sport adjust shocks on the car I had to fine tune the front ones, since then the car behaves very well, I can also throttle steer it as well. Never found it to be a problem. BTW it's been on the car now for 340K miles
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Old 02-01-2022, 12:29 AM   #11
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Too much rear bar = lifts inside rear under hard cornering = oversteer
Too much front bar = lifts inside front under hard cornering = understeer

I ran heavy rear bar and stock front bar on an R32 Skyline years ago on purpose: MIG locked diff, lift inside rear to go faster, control car off throttle, no MIG diff downsides provided you pull it off the ground early in the cornering cycle and don't have too much power to overwhelm the one remaining tyre and have a light rear end that one tyre can handle.

It's a shame they don't do a split size set for the 700/900 cars - I'd have got that for sure.

If/when I order for my 240s I'll get the split size set. If I want to oversteer I want to do it hard on the throttle not by surprise mid corner because I'm 3 wheeling
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Old 02-01-2022, 01:02 PM   #12
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Handling and 7/9s are mutually exclusive, Fred
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Old 02-01-2022, 01:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Handling and 7/9s are mutually exclusive, Fred
Nah it's easy to fix, just cut a hole in the firewall and move the engine 2 cylinders back.
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Old 02-01-2022, 01:22 PM   #14
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You could just get rid of the distributor and get set back mounts from Sverige.

Next step would be addressing the hot mess that is the rear suspension.
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Old 02-01-2022, 02:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
You could just get rid of the distributor and get set back mounts from Sverige.
Oh really now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Next step would be addressing the hot mess that is the rear suspension.
That, uhh, yeah. And the dismal cross weights.

I keep having dreams about some kind of weatherproof rubber bushing on one end/ball joint on the other torque rod solution.

@OP it's much better to try and correct understeer by adding front grip instead of reducing rear grip. More camber, caster and/or front roll stiffness ought to help.
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Old 02-05-2022, 07:13 AM   #16
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What are you all smoking? 7/9 rear end is a work of art and deserving of the patent and about twice as capable of laying down power as the 200 I love my 240 wagon more than any other car and maybe even my wife, but it's primitive back there and it shows up pretty early when trying to lay down power.

My 940 wagon handled well, bone stock, worn. My 960 wagon that replaced it was a boat, but I've fixed that and it's fun now. 940 had rear bar and bigger front bar. 960 had no rear bar and totally flogged shocks.

All I said was that I'd have got a slightly smaller/weaker rear bar if the option was available and that's what I recommend to the OP too.
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Old 02-05-2022, 07:41 AM   #17
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I have the IPD 25 front 22 rear on a 1993 245 (https://www.ipdusa.com/Catalog/Index?sku=100986). Less wallowing in hard cornering than the stock setup, but I'm rarely pushing this car anywhere near its limits. And yep, this is the car with 205/70/14 tires.
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