745 into Pickup

[lookforjoe]

All I got done today was some wiring, no energy for anything more strenuous. Waiting for results of PCR test.

repinned the gate harness, JPT terminals 6pole + 2pole





left sufficient length to tuck the connectors in the middle area, in case there's no room on the outer left



After that, I cut the rear harness to make the pass through connections. Spliced in an extra set of wires that can be used for the trailer connections, so I don't have to splice anything off the taillamp. Also added the white wire back for the license plate illumination.







6.3mm for the heavier wiring (4polePT), 2.8mm for everything else (6pole,2poleJPT), except the ABS which I used a higher quality TS060 sealed housing with higher grade contacts (used on later Volvos for engine temp sensors, so I have a bunch)

[lookforjoe]

Snow is gone & sun is out, so I worked outside for a few hours. Since I've been really sick since Sunday, I took a PCR test on Tues, & got back a positive Wed. night. I of course gifted it on the Mrs., so now we both have it.

Removed the rear door harnesses, except for speaker wiring



Worked on low effort pieces - started folding & tacking the cut B pillar layers so that nothing is left loose, and folded the edges that would interfere with the stake insertion, then cut & welded the first stake holder bracket . I'll finish it & clean up the welds later. Haven't decided if there will be just 4 in place, or six. It's such a short bed 4 is prolly sufficient





Figuring out how to fill the rear door - I decided I don't want to have a smooth panel covering the whole thing - it won't go with the rest of the bed. So, a filler piece to join door opening to inner door skin - approx 3/4" wide, will be butt-welded



then contoured pieces to fill large openings, and join to the C pillar, and I'll fill the various small holes



Cut some SS to make the reinforcement inserts for the rail caps: 48x 3.5"; for a 2" vertical & 1.25" horizontal ( with a 1/4" folded edge) -

Same as Sq tube idea, just larger overall dimensions for the rail





also folded some sheet (in background) to make the 1/4 glass lower lip



This got complicated as I want to retain the inner & outer door upper lip - for the outer molding, and for the door panel should I decide to cut it down & make it work.. That means there has to be an open channel on either side of the glass frame lip along the door cap



it will be welded to the door skin along the opening where the vice grips at located, and to the vertical pinch welds at each end



(dropped on the right in this pic, it will sit level)

[lookforjoe]

Got back outside for a couple hours today whilst the sun was in the driveway. Still feeling kinda shagged.

Removed the rear door locks & handles to prep for welding, and made some more tagboard templates for the door filler sections, then cut a couple of the pieces from my wife's Fiat 500 roof section that I removed for the sunroof install







card filler strip to unite inner door skin to door sill/opening. approx 3/4" deep. Trying to keep all welds to butt joints whenever possible to avoid moisture traps

[lookforjoe]

small steps - got the upper inserts spot welded together after a bunch of fettling to get the fit right





tacked in place - I'll weld the door side with the door open, then do the C pillar side after the door are welded shut





cut the L & R forward door fillers, and center junction for bottom of door skin to sill





nibbler tool worked the best for these more organic shaped pieces

[lookforjoe]

Cut out the cross braces & beams from the roof skin, so I can use parts of the skin for various areas.



Cut out some more filler pieces



The doors have a slight curve at the top where the handle is located, so I cut sections from the roof (8.25'x3.75") just inboard of the ridge.

Cut out the door cup, after scribing around the filler piece I made





only minor filling after that



ready to tack





forgot to photograph it during the tack/weld steps - this is after I ground down the welds & put some primer on it



I'll need to grind it a little more, then some minor filler



pretty level across the panel - I'l happy with the results. I did get a little over zealous with the speed at which I worked around - I heard the panel pop in the area below the weld- it sucked in. I used the heat gun & a stick to massage it back out after.

[lookforjoe]

Back on it today after work - got some of the filler welded on the right door, shaved the right handle, and added the cap for the left (original) C pillar



lower channel for 1/4 glass



filler welded to right door opening











right door



went slower & moved around more this time, didn't get any significant panel distortion







problem with left door - with upper section flush with 1/4 - lower section sticks out pretty far. I tried adjusting the door at the hinges, without success. I'll have to try resetting the latch, and then prying the upper section outward to level it for welding. The pass door doesn't have this issue.

[lookforjoe]

Got a couple hours in today - spent most of the day going to Jersey to get a Volvo for my Mum



got more filler panels welded





lower portion of crossmember now has something to weld to



inner sections (visible tangs with bolt holes) will need uniting with door skin also



figured out the top pinch weld that the rail has to attach to up to the C pillar, so that's something. Used a section of the 1/4 panel lip that was removed from the parts wagon

[lookforjoe]

Plan was to focus on making the tie plate for the gate opening. I got the template made, then got sidetracked on balancing out the filler panels I needed to add to the left door, and that led to making the support bracket for the antenna motor. I integrated it into the rear lower filler panel

template made



support for motor





motor drain set in bottom of door







antenna in place - I will have to raise the motor about 1-2" though - there's not enough slack in the drive cable



left lower glass channel



The other thing that has to happen is using the forward vertical of the rear door seal, the B pillar trim is in part retained by the lip of the door seals, and it is needed to seal the lower half of the rear door forward edge





overview pics - I need to weld the inner door skins to the flanges I made before I weld the gate valance in situ, or I won't be able to get to the seams to weld the lower rear arc off the sill into the opening

[lookforjoe]

Cut the valance filler (16ga) - had to go back & forth trimming the outer 12" on each side - the valance actually has a dogleg to it on each side, so the depth was all wrong. I had to taper the base to get it to align. Also cut about 1.5" off the base of the valance to level it & get above the rust.



tacked in place, then I'll remove the valance & fully weld it.



The (plastic) gas tank in directly under the left side floor where the plastic plug is located - so, I may need to drop the tank before I seam weld the filler to the floor. I also have to figure out the drainage. I'm going to use this recessed area as a stowage bin, and it may or may not be sealed enough to keep water out.



going to add reinforcements on the inside, where the valance originally attached to the frame rails

[lookforjoe]

Productive afternoon. Got the 3 supports fabricated, the end valance-to-door tie plates for the lower valance, and the caps to close off the valance/sill. Next I can remove the valance, do all the underside welding and then move on to welding the doors closed before welding the valance to the floor & doors.

[lookforjoe]

Plugging away at the valance welding

[lookforjoe]

Lots done today, in between the rain showers. Sealed all the seams that needed it, got the fillers made for the B pillar covers, cap & stake holder on the right.





fillers for B pillars



filler ties the B pillar cover to the door post



needs to be a clean seam - the forward edge presses against the door seal







got the tapered cap on the right B pillar figured out, just needs the joiner to the drip rail





stake holder & C pillar cap



ready to weld shut here - mostly





Have to make drains to connect these to the outside

[lookforjoe]

Got a fair bit done today. 2 remaining filler sections for each door, and the taper cap for the DS B pillar, then I finally got to welding a door shut. I started with the passenger door as the gap was less problematic on that one.

welded fillers, like all the others, outside along top seam, inside otherwise, to avoid moisture traps





caulked with seam sealer, also sprayed with some green metallic & navy spray paint to approximate the unfinished paint seen on all the interior sheet metal ��





filler for DS B pillar cap







put some paint on the Valance as well, where it would be easier to deal with out of the wagon





prepping the door & sill edge for welding - one can see how the gap is much wider above the dogleg. I had to use two 3/32" filler rods for the upper section



weld. grind, weld. Working back & forth to keep heat down. The other thing about the MIG, I don't wear a helmet for this work, which make life easier. I just weld blind :rolleyes:



ground it back carefully, to avoid thinning the panels



I decided to get some filler on this, even though it was only 40ºF, at least it was sunny.





Sanded. Very happy with the welding, didn't take much filler at all to level the shaved handle or the dogleg



will need some minor fill work to fix a couple low spots







Welded the B pillar leading edge



ground back



a little filler, didn't have time to sand it back



As it now stands. Weather is going to **** this week, back to the 20's tomorrow, so not sure what I'll be able to get done after work.

[lookforjoe]

Temps are still in the freezing range, so not getting much done.

I added tie plates to the inner bottom of the gate valance, so I can tie the valance to the seat tub in the outer post area





Adjusting the fit of the rail supports



Small additional tie plate for the section that will be welded on the bed side of the gate



Welded the passenger door on the inside



Issue now is that I can't weld the driver's door shut, then install the gate valance, it won't fit. So, I need to position the valance, then weld the driver's door. It means it will a be pita welding the inside door edge.

A tie plate will be made to tie to the seat tub







revising the center brace



Finally, the C pillars will need careful alignment, once the gate valance is fixed in place. There is currently a minor offset issue



once the C pillar is aligned - the gap will be gone

[NJGreenBudd]

Awesome. I looked at a couple pictures of these since seeing your thread, you look to be doing a very high caliber job!! All sorts of approaches for different folks, you are methodical for sure. It's like watching a really complicated episode of how stuff is made, it all comes together!

Sorry if you've detailed elsewhere, I know you said it would stay Redblock, what do you plan for the power train? I can't imagine a stock turbo setup??

Keep up the great work.

[lookforjoe]

Originally Posted by NJGreenBudd

Awesome. I looked at a couple pictures of these since seeing your thread, you look to be doing a very high caliber job!! All sorts of approaches for different folks, you are methodical for sure. It's like watching a really complicated episode of how stuff is made, it all comes together!

Sorry if you've detailed elsewhere, I know you said it would stay Redblock, what do you plan for the power train? I can't imagine a stock turbo setup??

Keep up the great work.

I just did the +T on it for now. If I do a drivetrain swap, I'd probably go with Honda K24 - easy 200WHP NA, way more +T, and easy to tune with Hondata or K-Tuner. I already have experience playing with that on my X1/9. I'd need to locate the trans from a S2000 to make that happen. Not interested in another whiteblock swap.

[NJGreenBudd]

Ok, I need to reread, I saw the stock turbo parts and thought this was a turbo car to start, my bad. So then +T is improvement for sure, i was thinking maybe you'd build a 230FT or something.

[lookforjoe]

Got a fair bit done today. Valance/gate opening is now welded in place on the pillars, anyway. The sill I will need some time on. I found I had the valance set too far back, which meant the gate seal was not sealing on the upper half, no matter how I tweaked the pillar offset. I moved the whole thing forward at the base by about an inch. That minimizes the amount of fiddling I will need to do when I join the pillar halves next.

Got the opening aligned nicely with the gate, on both sides, before tacking the upper outer ridges









welded the left inner vertical, and the left door opening



ground back & primed



some 3M Dynatron 550 seam sealer on the welds





Then I moved on the right side



welded, ground & caulked



it's really in there for good now











problematic area - tie plates I made are now too short to mate with the back of the arch/sill- I don't want lap joints here, so it's going to get fiddly





also have to start figuring out how I'm going to cap this area but keep it a useable space

[lookforjoe]

Damn. There are pages that are gone... I had documented long beyond the above post. about a month's worth of work is missing.

Made it to Carlisle Import show & back, had to leave early as my wife broke here foot badly last weekend. A pleasure to see all the usual faces down there.

YT clip. https://youtu.be/gzweEqEj8w8











tailgate



panels in, seats back in





bed



gate







bay



Carlisle

[lookforjoe]

added snaps to the wood floor to secure the plastic wagon cargo tray (saved in my attic for the past 20 years since I owned a 745)



Changed the door handles for the later style. Since they are white, I think I'll leave the gate white & be done with it.





Also painted the grab handles with SEM 15173 camel - thankfully the cap color does not match the contents

[lookforjoe]

Worked on the end caps this afternoon

set to align with outer top edge of taillamp



put primer on them for now, no time to finish them until tomorrow



Have to fill in the transitions with some more weld material





figuring out the lower cap, hopefully get these welded tomorrow.

[lookforjoe]

Yesterday I added some material to the left cap, and made the cover plate for the right side. That's as far as I got - had to make the right cap twice, first one I had the depth all wrong for the gate depth.





top view







Feel pretty good about the overall look from the rear / side

[lookforjoe]

Welded the caps in yesterday. will need some refining, but that's the worst of the welding over with.







Cleaned up the left cap with a little more weld material today, at this point I'm just going to use filler to smooth the visible dip left in the transition from faux rail to post

[lookforjoe]

Cleaning up the posts / faux rail transition - sand, fill, sand fill, prime. Coming along OK

[lookforjoe]

Worked on getting the bed finished up, so welding the pockets, refining the back end of the inner rail & D posts

seam sealer & secure right pocket



filler on the rails



fill, sand, fill, sand, spot putty on rail ends & posts



pockets welded and sealed



put some base coat enamel on the lower sections, tomorrow I'll hopefully do the final sanding & paint on the rails & posts



cut & polished the tailgate, added the early (appropriate size) aluminum V O L V O emblem back - I did modify it though, separated the letters & spaced them slightly





EDIT: Volvo 700 Body GreenBook Emblem Placement. 32mm in from left, 60mm up. 35mm in from right, 60mm up.