adamdrives' 78 242

[adamdrives]

This thread will follow my progress bringing this car into excellent condition as a clean and aesthetically pleasing useable fun to drive daily. I have a few other cars so I'll probably never drive it for more than a week at a time, but I'd still like to be able to hop in for a road trip if the mood or occasion strikes. That means working climate control, not too harsh ride, quiet cabin and mild exhaust. I don't have any plans to turbo or engine swap it at this point, just enjoy it as it was meant to be with some worthwhile improvements.

A little history on this car: it had been sitting for about ten years after the original owner passed or stopped driving it. A friend of her son bought the car as a project, but got in over his head and needed to find it a good home. A friend of mine told me about the car, and we picked it up on a trailer in Hollister. It came with a nice stack of records going back to its original purchase invoice in Campbell which is where I currently work.

This is the first 240 I've owned or driven for more than a day, I've had mostly white block cars and a diesel 740. I didn't know much about 240s when I bought the car, I just liked that it looked different from most 240s on the road. I got really lucky, because it ended up needing very little to be a driver, and besides from a few blemishes was in very good condition.

With the car at my shop, the first step was to replace the rusty fuel tank. Next, figure out why the freshly replaced main pump wasn't running. Looking under the dash I saw a clean new relay, but in the wrong harness. With the actual fuel pump relay replaced, fresh gas in the tank and a new fuel filter, the car started and ran decently well. I replaced all the vacuum lines, ignition parts and adjusted the (zero millimeter) valve clearance and injector seals, and she purred. A week later the car passed smog on the first try, which was a good sign.

With the reg sticker in place I drove the car for about a week and to a show an hour or so North. I noticed that the blower motor was dead, the cabin was inhospitably loud, and the windshield whistled noisily. The three speed automatic with no overdrive didn't help with noise on the highway, or anything else that involving acceleration. It was satisfying to be driving an early modern era car, but if I was going to keep it some of those issues needed to be addressed.

I decided to replace the blower motor, heater core and evaporator, and put down as much soundproofing as I could while the dash was apart. It struck me that it would also be the easiest time to manual swap the car, with nothing obstructing the pedal box and all the wiring exposed to wire in an overdrive relay. I found a full swap kit in the classifieds (thanks MCHN8) and got to work disassembling the dash and removing the interior.

I spent the next few months chipping away at getting down the sound proofing a few hours at a time when it was slow at work. I found a cheaper alternative to the real Dynamat on amazon, and it wasn't too hard to apply using rollers a user recommended. Talking to Dad (lookforjoe) he mentioned that the foil backed butyl stuff wasn't really that great for noise dampening, but the foam stuff worked pretty well. Since I already had done most of the car with the dynamat, I went ahead and covered the front floors and firewall in a second layer of the foam. In total I used about 50 sq feet of the dynamat and 20 sq feet of the closed cell foam.

Underneath the car I had a hard time getting the trans in because the input shaft kept hanging up on the pressure plate fingers. Turns out I had the clutch disc in backwards I'd like to say I didn't give the tunnel some light pounding before I figured that out, but I'd be lying. The only other issue I ran into while replacing the transmission was overzealous reassembly on the u joints, which I think are a little too tight and causing an intermittent shuddering.

With the swap done and the interior back in the car I took it for the first drive home from the shop. The cabin noise was better, but still a lot like standing in a room full of sewing machines. I think sound proofing the bottom of the hood and getting some thicker foam in the shifter opening will help with that. The speedo reads high, so I need to figure out how to fix that. On the bright side my overdrive wiring I put off for weeks worked perfectly and the car thunked into 5th with very little hesitation. With an actual cruising gear I could finally just drive the car like a regular car.

Other than not having a working radio, It's completely drivable. The clutch cable may need a little adjustment, it engages almost immediately and some times is hard to get into first or catches a little going into third, but nothing major. I took the car to Santa Cruz today with my roommate to visit a few breweries, and we got multiple thumbs ups and a conversation just by being in it. To me, that really makes all the hard work pay off.


Plans for the near future:

• replace leaking front seals (not even dripping, the car is otherwise leak free)

• replace fuel pump, its starting to groan. No loss of power that I notice.

• Install 5x114.3 ET16 17" BBS reps (of what model, not sure) with adapters. Thanks 89-240gl+t and 1Smooth84!

• Lower the car. I know coilovers are probably the only way to really get a lower look and maintain a less harsh ride, but I'll probably start with just lowering springs until I find a good deal on the real stuff.

• Install wood Momo steering wheel I've been carrying around for years (just need adapter)

• Paint and install chin spoiler from a Turbo car

Alright, enough talking.

First start:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laVNIlFD9gA

After a initial tune up:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHA867Uiwek

Underneath the car

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4lUDqz9-d0g

As she sat before I picked her up





Back at the shop!



A little rough, but not bad interior



valve cover cleaned up, all vac lines replaced



Cleaned up very well. Impressive how thick and glossy the paint is even in the bay



The start of the soundproofing and manual swap. It took a little over a year from start to finish with the car being out of the shop between June and October while I worked on other smaller projects. I started in Feb of 20 right before Covid happened.

























man the center stack took me a while to get just right



Trans prepped



O/D wiring



sound asleep in the shop after work

[JerryJS8]

Nice work on reassembling the HVAC, that blower unit is a major pain...

Car looks great so far!!!

[adamdrives]

Thanks! Definitely time consuming job. Worth it to have good heat and cold without 40 years of dust :p

[Vol242vo]

Incredible shape for a ‘78. Nice 2 you’ve got there.

[adamdrives]

Originally Posted by Vol242vo

Incredible shape for a ‘78. Nice 2 you’ve got there.

Almost 200k on it too. Original owner cars are always in better shape.

[rms]

Great project! Keep up the good work!

[Vol242vo]

Originally Posted by adamdrives

Almost 200k on it too. Original owner cars are always in better shape.

Facts.

[adamdrives]

I have a nice wood Momo wheel I was planning to put on the car, but it looks like Momo lists the adapter as ‘82+ only. Anyone know of an adapter that will work for my car?

[rms]

Originally Posted by adamdrives

I have a nice wood Momo wheel I was planning to put on the car, but it looks like Momo lists the adapter as ‘82+ only. Anyone know of an adapter that will work for my car?

I have the Momo adapter on my ‘77, you’re good to go.

[adamdrives]

Cool, is it the 9010?

[rms]

Originally Posted by adamdrives

Cool, is it the 9010?

Yes, 9010

[adamdrives]

Great, Thank you

[adamdrives]

Currently looking to replace the windshield trim that is missing a section along the top of the glass. Having a hard time finding replacement trim (actually only need the weatherstripping) and glass if mine breaks during trim replacement. Our glass guy brought a newer 240 windshield which I thought would fit, but it turns out its too small. I thought all 240 glass was the same, he's saying it's a different part number and the closest replacement is in Florida. Anybody in California have the trim/weatherstripping or glass for a 78?

I'll pay for the shipping from FL if I have to, but I'll still need the earlier style weatherstripping, which I believe is bonded to the trim.

[Mueller]

Nice work there, I'm about to tackle the sound proofing on my '78 242 soon. Following your build for sure.

[2turbotoys]

My '78 has the later windshield installed, but you have to use the newer seal with it. Previous owner had this done. Obviously it looks totally different, no polished metal, just a black surround. It looks good on that car, but I wouldn't do that to yours if it can be avoided. My 79 still has the original trim and window.

I would post in wanted, get more eyes on it.

[Brontes II]

Originally Posted by adamdrives

... I'll still need the earlier style weatherstripping, which I believe is bonded to the trim.

It's not. It just feels that way once it's 40 years old. Skandix still sells it. Maybe ask your glass guy if he has a local supplier who can source it from them. If not you can always pony up for shipping yourself. It's a little tedious to swap it out, but it's definitely DIYable.

Here's an install tutorial: https://www.skandix.de/en/documents/installation-guide/front-windshield/3000012/

There are a few versions listed on the site, P/N's 1021167, 1021171, and 1058655. Here's a link to one of them: https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/body/windows/cover-strip-glas-windscreen/1058655/

You should be able to find all of the other stuff you need for the project there too.

[lookforjoe]

It's nice when the car hasn't been molested by multiple owners!

Isn't your windshield set in a rubber seal like the rear glass?

My recollection is 1246661 fits everything prior to the late switch to PUR bonded glass. Only difference I recall is the tinted band on the 1246661 that earlier glass don't have...

[adamdrives]

Originally Posted by Brontes II

It's not. It just feels that way once it's 40 years old. Skandix still sells it. Maybe ask your glass guy if he has a local supplier who can source it from them. If not you can always pony up for shipping yourself. It's a little tedious to swap it out, but it's definitely DIYable.

Here's an install tutorial: https://www.skandix.de/en/documents/installation-guide/front-windshield/3000012/

There are a few versions listed on the site, P/N's 1021167, 1021171, and 1058655. Here's a link to one of them: https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/body/windows/cover-strip-glas-windscreen/1058655/

You should be able to find all of the other stuff you need for the project there too.

Thank you for that link! I was looking on VP and couldn't find anything.

It looks like that guide is for 79 and up. Any idea whats different in 78?

Originally Posted by lookforjoe

It's nice when the car hasn't been molested by multiple owners!

Isn't your windshield set in a rubber seal like the rear glass?

My recollection is 1246661 fits everything prior to the late switch to PUR bonded glass. Only difference I recall is the tinted band on the 1246661 that earlier glass don't have...

Makes all the difference. I can't even find a part number on this glass. It looks like the glass is just set in butyl with the weatherstripping over, but it was so dirty I'm not sure. I didn't think that the windshield opening was different on any 240, but our glass guy is saying theres a cut off at 85 or something. Maybe to accommodate the new style trim? I don't know.

[Brontes II]

No problem. Hope it helps. I know that the chrome trim and weatherstripping are interchangeable between an ‘80 and ‘83. I’ve never owned a ‘78 but your trim looks exactly like mine.

The newer style glued in one-piece set up starts some time after ‘86, I think. Not exactly sure if that changeover date varies depending on market and vehicle trim level though (DL, GLT, etc.).

Either way, I’m pretty sure the replacement trim from Skandix will work. I think it’s an option A or option B thing. You’ve either got chrome or you don’t. I could be wrong though.

If you want to double check you can pry yours off and take a look at the underside. A heat gun helps if it’s being stubborn. I have a complete chrome/weatherstripping/clip set in my parts stash that I pulled from my old ‘83 wagon but haven’t yet installed on my ‘80 sedan project. I can take pic for you to compare yours against if you really need it.

[Brontes II]

See this one: https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...creen/1021167/

Should be a match for yours.

[adamdrives]

Originally Posted by Brontes II

See this one: https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...creen/1021167/

Should be a match for yours.

Thanks, I found the right seal and am just waiting to make sure I don't need anything else from skandix before I cough up for shipping.

Current focus is getting speedo working. The amount I drive its not crucial, but I like having a working trip. I saved the old tailshaft with the speedo gear in it from the bw55, but obviously that doesn't bolt up to the m46 overdrive. Next step will be to see if I can somehow change just the speedo drive gear or if I need to find the correct overdrive for a 78, which would be from an m45 I think.

Had a blast driving the absolute piss out of her on a rally upstate, and got this great shot of the car as a bonus. It's the first time since the manual swap that ive really pushed her, and man is she peppier and more fun to drive. I spent most of the time at the top of 2nd or 3rd gear, and honestly the power was surprising. They were curvy roads without many straights but I was still keeping up with a 740 turbo in front of me and not holding up the mk 1 and 2 mustangs behind me.

[lookforjoe]

Speedo drives were sold in a range of ratios to match the speedo head (& FD). They are color coded, but the online catalog doesn't list them anymore, need the microfiche as paper catalogs were not printed by Volvo for 70's vehicles.

The OD trans for -78 was the M41, so I don't think it would bolt up to the 79 - M46 gearbox....

[adamdrives]

I think we have the microfiche at work. Is the speedo drive replaceable in the OD unit?

[spock345]

Originally Posted by lookforjoe

Speedo drives were sold in a range of ratios to match the speedo head (& FD). They are color coded, but the online catalog doesn't list them anymore, need the microfiche as paper catalogs were not printed by Volvo for 70's vehicles.

The OD trans for -78 was the M41, so I don't think it would bolt up to the 79 - M46 gearbox....

The last year for the M41 was '75. It would be an M46 in 1976 onward.

[Harlard]

Nice car