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Old 12-01-2021, 05:52 PM   #1
shobin
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Default its been a good few years but I think my 87 240 NA is officially dead

I have known about my clogged pcv system for a while but working two jobs and being a full time college student I have not had the time to fix it. It has caused some minor issues like a blown cam plug and most recently a blown water pump gasket, at least I thought. But I was just outside taking a look in the engine bay and realized that I most likely also have a blown head gasket.

There was coolant in between the head and block of the first cylinder underneath the intake manifold, and when I first started up my car the exhaust was white and had a sweet smell to it. It also turned over really slow like it was struggling to find compression. I just ordered new fuel injectors, a new water pump, new PCV system, new spark plugs, and a few more things, but now it all seems in vain. If the car has a blown head gasket, its dead and I'm gonna have to sell it for pennies. I should have sold it earlier once I realized that I am not going to have the time to work on a car, now a perfectly good 240 is ruined.

Does anybody have any advice, or potential evidence to prove me wrong. This is a major bummer.
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Old 12-01-2021, 06:18 PM   #2
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Wrangle a weekend day off work and swap the HG. It's really not all that hard.
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Old 12-01-2021, 08:44 PM   #3
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I agree with John. A new hg and bolts isn’t that expensive.
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Old 12-01-2021, 09:33 PM   #4
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Changing a head gasket is part of owning an old car. If you can't do this, you won't be able to repair anything else.

You could always sell the car to another enthusiast and buy a new Kia if it's too much work for you
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Old 12-01-2021, 09:42 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by hessam69 View Post
Changing a head gasket is part of owning an old car. If you can't do this, you won't be able to repair anything else.

You could always sell the car to another enthusiast and buy a new Kia if it's too much work for you
No need to be condescending.

like I said in my post, I’m a full time student with two jobs. I have the means and ability to do this job but not the time. I’ll just do a compression test tomorrow then order the kit and wait until I have the time
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Old 12-01-2021, 09:46 PM   #6
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1 hour a day for a week and it's done? Just carve out a little time and do it bit by bit.

A lot of that other stuff you already bought for it would be easy to do along the way.
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Old 12-01-2021, 10:07 PM   #7
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A good running 86+ 240 is worth $500.

With a blown head gasket, I estimate the value at $19.

Fix it.
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Old 12-01-2021, 10:07 PM   #8
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I'll give you $3.50 for it, as is.
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Old 12-01-2021, 10:11 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat View Post
A good running 86+ 240 is worth $500.

With a blown head gasket, I estimate the value at $19.

Fix it.
Ahaha not in the Bay Area. As much as I love 240s they are not worth as much as they sell for here.
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Old 12-01-2021, 10:14 PM   #10
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Yeah I'm gonna concur with the rest of the discord lurkers here as to the thought that it's a fairly simple job to do, especially NA. Even with minimal tooling it would only take a couple hours. And if you don't have the time, why not just take it to a shop?
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Old 12-01-2021, 10:16 PM   #11
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Old 12-01-2021, 10:20 PM   #12
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All 240s are worth $500. This is fact, as laid down in the 10 commandments of TB. Heck, I've bought a running and driving 740 turbo M46 for $500, and it even came with a spare engine.

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Old 12-01-2021, 10:34 PM   #13
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Whatever two jobs your working I doubt either pay more then you'd save hourly by fixing the car. Even if your slow about it shop rates are +$100 in CA and any new car is inflated to the point you'd be stupid to buy one.

That being said if your going to sell it, and the body is in good shape, I'll buy it. I'm a full time college student but only have one job and know the opportunity cost of paying someone else to fix your car.
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Old 12-02-2021, 06:38 AM   #14
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It’s an old car so you’ll probably have to fix things along the way & run into some rusty bolts and mildly annoying hang ups, but money saved on the car you already own and have smogged/registered is that much less $ you have to earn.

Money saved is worth ~1.5x conservatively and I almost value it at 2x money I have to work and sweat to on someone else’s terms earn and (likely) pay income tax on. Everyone’s different and not always a penny pincher or low budget idk?

Maybe if you’re silly rich and make capital gains and have an army of accountants figuring out how you can pay no taxes and you don’t want to get your hands (physically) dirty, fixing cars all the time isn’t a comparatively good use of time vs. figuring out how to better scam, hustle & pass the buck for your $ or whatever?

Its understandable, most people need a car to get to work and can’t afford down time/service interruption, but if you can get or borrow some means of transport or uber or BART or some combo thereof and have a driveway or storage unit or not too seedy apartment parking lot or street to change an HG in hopefully agreeable cali weather (or some form of shelter or garage ideally), it’s still likely better than buying another ??? Pandora’s box unknown used car and registering &/or smogging it.

As long as the overheat wasn’t too Fukushima nuclear & severe, coolant isn’t too acidic, if didn’t hydrolock and damage the cylinders or bend a rod or get too much coolant in the oil or sit dead a real long time with coolant in the oil or cylinders, the head or block can usually be put back into service on these…they’re fairly forgiving tractor motors…
…it’s still undesired and not good news if they need an hg and there’s probably *some* shortened lifespan, but probably not so much that the car/drivetrain doesn’t have another decade+ to give.

You might tear into it and find the block/head too damaged to reuse and go from a sickly running car but running car to a (partially) disassembled car that doesn’t run…there is that risk but if you don’t dig into it I’d always be left wondering if I junked an otherwise perfectly savable or basically viable car I already owned.

Try to figure out why it needed an HG tho If you can…

Have a workspace and block out some time in chunks with some contingency plans and go to the Bay Area junkyards or a tbers garage with an engine/greasy mechanical spares 4 cheap if you need them?
There are worse things…
You can buy a newer car but if you can do basic repairs a 240 isn’t that terrible for cost of ownership if you don’t molest it and check on it as far as 80s/90s cars go…
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Old 12-02-2021, 02:39 PM   #15
shobin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
It’s an old car so you’ll probably have to fix things along the way & run into some rusty bolts and mildly annoying hang ups, but money saved on the car you already own and have smogged/registered is that much less $ you have to earn.

Money saved is worth ~1.5x conservatively and I almost value it at 2x money I have to work and sweat to on someone else’s terms earn and (likely) pay income tax on. Everyone’s different and not always a penny pincher or low budget idk?

Maybe if you’re silly rich and make capital gains and have an army of accountants figuring out how you can pay no taxes and you don’t want to get your hands (physically) dirty, fixing cars all the time isn’t a comparatively good use of time vs. figuring out how to better scam, hustle & pass the buck for your $ or whatever?

Its understandable, most people need a car to get to work and can’t afford down time/service interruption, but if you can get or borrow some means of transport or uber or BART or some combo thereof and have a driveway or storage unit or not too seedy apartment parking lot or street to change an HG in hopefully agreeable cali weather (or some form of shelter or garage ideally), it’s still likely better than buying another ??? Pandora’s box unknown used car and registering &/or smogging it.

As long as the overheat wasn’t too Fukushima nuclear & severe, coolant isn’t too acidic, if didn’t hydrolock and damage the cylinders or bend a rod or get too much coolant in the oil or sit dead a real long time with coolant in the oil or cylinders, the head or block can usually be put back into service on these…they’re fairly forgiving tractor motors…
…it’s still undesired and not good news if they need an hg and there’s probably *some* shortened lifespan, but probably not so much that the car/drivetrain doesn’t have another decade+ to give.

You might tear into it and find the block/head too damaged to reuse and go from a sickly running car but running car to a (partially) disassembled car that doesn’t run…there is that risk but if you don’t dig into it I’d always be left wondering if I junked an otherwise perfectly savable or basically viable car I already owned.

Try to figure out why it needed an HG tho If you can…

Have a workspace and block out some time in chunks with some contingency plans and go to the Bay Area junkyards or a tbers garage with an engine/greasy mechanical spares 4 cheap if you need them?
There are worse things…
You can buy a newer car but if you can do basic repairs a 240 isn’t that terrible for cost of ownership if you don’t molest it and check on it as far as 80s/90s cars go…
all excellent points. I have a tendency to stress myself out and get things done ASAFP which definitely hasn't been helping my car situation. My quarter in school is ending next week then I will have about 10 days to sort through and fix as much as I can.

Now I just have to wait for the parts to get here. damn you supply chain
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Old 12-02-2021, 02:48 PM   #16
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A B230F was the first head gasket job I ever did and may be one of the easiest in my opinion. Any used car is going to be expensive these days so there’s a lot to be said for fixing what you already have.
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Old 12-02-2021, 02:49 PM   #17
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Sounds good.

Watch out for some rusty exhaust hardware/spray and wire wheel if as much as possible now to try to temp cycle it and get the downpipe and or manifold off it without damaging anything?

If it’s got non rotting late 87 engine harness gently pull the intake manifold back but no need to remove it entirely to change an hg.

Really examine the head and block carefully if it’s determined for sure the head needs to come off/shows low compression &/or a steam cleaned spark plug(s), &/or sniffs dirty for combustion gas (or use the reactive strips if you don’t have access to a gas analyzer sniffer) &/or has coolant in the bottom of the oil pan to drain out… to try to narrow down the diagnosis as much as possible.

Keep cool, I think the stealthfti phase pics are still up, look at the book and some pics, try to take some pics and ask some questions and be cautious and really inspect & evaluate the parts…they’re that old now and despite what hackers and molesters say here, don’t rush, it’s not all about speed or cutting corners as a flat rater and booting it out a shop door and proceed with caution and slowly if it’s your own car and you depend on it to get around.

There’s enough motor parts still floating around for these, especially in CA (more so low miler parts on the rust coast and Canada maybe actually because usually the car rusted out or was in a collision in inclement weather before it had an engine problem (brutal cold starts that wear the motor a lot faster if not block heated) that if a part is questionable find another one in better shape than what you have at this late date.

More time evaluating and sifting thru ever older cores on TBs members collective wet shelf(ves) or a trip to the junkyard maybe, but at least the greasy hard parts are around with lots of years of interchange for the 85-95 B230 cars and the tractor motor is fairly forgiving especially if kept n/a slow, under-stressed and mostly stock/unmolested, really.

It’s maybe not as easy an hg as a PGm fi ir multi port efi Honda from the early mid 90s, but pretty easy as headgaskets go most times.
More just vehicle age now and being driven for extended periods roached down for a while like that or sitting like that or being hacked by Elroy and not maintained to stock brand new dealer/factory manual book standards with hand tools no impacts with everything evaluated at 1000points and put back gently where it goes so you can’t even tell it didn’t just roll off the showroom floor is working against you than technical difficulty level of the R&R on the 240 Volvo working against you.

Lot can happen over ~35 years of the average family wagon or beater highest production years 86-89 244 like the average tb dirtbag lowlife Volkswagen washout loser owns. And these cars were too cheap with weak resale in the wrong hands for about a decade+ there, especially after Ford got the controlling share to corporate raid/ monopoly consolidate/impose the American business model Volvo cars since ~1999- early 2000s . They’re getting back into the right (the ones that aren’t rust buckets and worth saving or original time capsules kept up or garaged and cared for) hands now tho!

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Old 12-02-2021, 04:16 PM   #18
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Well, I just ran a compression test and got 190, 190, 190, and 205. Good news is that I don’t think it’s the head gasket, bad news is that I have no idea what else it could be??? My engine is definitely burning coolant. The exhaust is white, smells sweet, and it drips water too. There’s also coolant leaking between the head and block on the first cylinder. Anybody have any insight?
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Old 12-02-2021, 04:29 PM   #19
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I had the same experience with my friends 375k mile 90 wagon. It was using coolant and burning coolant definitely had a bad head gasket but it had 200psi on all cylinders with a hot compression test. The head gasket was bad at the back of the head but only leaked during highway driving. It was pumping coolant out the back of the head and the gasket had corroded away across the back of the engine.
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Old 12-02-2021, 06:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat View Post
A good running 86+ 240 is worth $500.

With a blown head gasket, I estimate the value at $19.

Fix it.
why cant the german market be like this. i paid 9000€ for mine and spent alot more to get it where its now
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Old 12-02-2021, 11:02 PM   #21
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A coolant pressure tester should be used.

You pump the cooling system up to about 15 psi and see where the leaks occur.
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