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Old 01-23-2022, 05:57 AM   #26
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G'day hessam69!

What makes you think I'm worried about reliability? I drive a 1993 car, and my backups are GM cars from 1996.

But, to your jibe: Read the opening post more carefully, lad. I did flush the cooling system. I also replaced all the system hoses, all belts, and just about every seal and gasket from the get-go; except the rear main. That's not leaking yet. When it does, I'll get to it. I needed to get on with asking a question, so I did not include every aspect of maintenance in the post.

Not much issue with overheating in upstate NY. The greatest peril up here is whitetail deer. Kind of like hitting a big red, but on all fours and some of the big bastards have horns.
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Old 01-23-2022, 06:05 AM   #27
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Automatic? That slush box probably ate whatever horsepower increase you got
Well, neener neener neener, pffffflt!

But, note that I did not say that I replaced the manual transmission with an automatic when I replaced the cam.
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Old 01-23-2022, 06:16 AM   #28
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May I suggest aftermarket cat and somewhat more free flowing exhaust as next performance upgrade.
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Old 01-23-2022, 08:02 AM   #29
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or do a cat delete and annoy convertible drivers or bikes at the redlight
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Old 01-23-2022, 08:14 AM   #30
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May I suggest aftermarket cat and somewhat more free flowing exhaust as next performance upgrade.
"or do a cat delete and annoy convertible drivers or bikes at the redlight"

Yes. But I want to avoid anything significantly louder than stock. I spent too much time applying acoustic mat to interior body panel surfaces to go boy-racer on an exhaust and undo all that work. IPD has a good stainless system that is 2.25" from the cat back for about $350, but they deleted the intermediate muffler. I might try that and splice in universal fit 2.25" intermediate if it's too loud. The larger cat would be done at that time, and there are several inexpensive options for non-turbo cars.

But I'll likely go for shaving the head/thinner gasket on the 531 head + the VX cam to yield something under 10.5 compression first, as that is what's recommended first on the TB list of recommended performance upgrades for NA engines (you see, I am listening to your collective advice). The cost of the head vs the exhaust mod is about the same in money and sweat. If I go for the higher compression and a better-breathing 531 head, and it sounds constipated above 3500 rpm, then I can quickly upgrade the exhaust.

This could get expensive if I go beyond the above, but that's very unlikely to happen. The car is from California, it's looks new, mileage is relatively low, it's rust-free, and I bought it cheap. I have a very long way to go before I come close to what my estate could sell it for (hopefully in the very distant future). Before I start drooling on my shoe tops and am still able to appreciate it, I want it to have a bit more power, but within reason.
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Old 01-23-2022, 11:15 AM   #31
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Just installed a BTI wasted spark system on my NA 940 Autotragic. Together with air box mod and BTI chip its actually OK for what it is. Bear in mind that the car started with a B230FB which has 531/VX cam, factory rated at 131 hp.
I plan to replace the exhaust, better cat (both mediocre aftermarket), modified secondary merge and best just ditch the automatic.
B230E 'Svanhals' intake with added injector bungs is also something I am looking at. Gonna make one for my 240 so might as well do it for the 940 too.

Maybe some things you can do as well.
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Old 01-23-2022, 11:43 AM   #32
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An aftermarket exhaust is plenty big enough for all but the most race oriented NA B230's. The exhaust that IPD sells is bigger than the NA stuff. You'll need to make 180-200 hp before the 2.25" exhaust begins to become a problem.

So exhaust from the "downpipe" collector to the back. The IPD exhaust with one muffler isn't that loud at all. I'd keep a cat. Even in my neck of the woods where you can get any POS inspected they still check (visually) for a cat converter. And the Magnaflow high flow Cats are pretty cheap.

So get a muffler shop to make a Cat pipe and then complete it with the IPD parts from there back.


After that, hotter spark, better spark control, and a shaved head is about the biggest things you can do before you start really spending money.
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Old 01-23-2022, 12:20 PM   #33
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...

What else might I want? The idea of shaving the head ever-so-slightly is something I might do if I ever need to replace the head gasket. From what I read, it's pretty a modest gain in performance... maybe 10 HP at most. But why not do it if the head has to come off? Come to think of it, maybe if the head has to come off, I'll buy a completely rebuilt 531 head from Clearwater FL, shave it as suggested above, swap the VX cam into it, and see what happens. ...
Oh? Pray do tell. Is this a one off or shop? I would love to know of any other Volvo resources around here.
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Old 01-23-2022, 01:48 PM   #34
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Oh? Pray do tell. Is this a one off or shop? I would love to know of any other Volvo resources around here.
Shhhh.... you'd never guess the name of the place.... it's a shop called Clearwater Cylinder Head.

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Old 01-23-2022, 02:19 PM   #35
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Well it seemed to me that you are asking for some easy upgrades to your car. The tire sizes I've suggested are all from real world experience on these cars as to what works and what doesn't work so well.

You can reference rotations per mile or reference the overall diameter either way you are using tires that are too tall for any decent driving enjoyment. Those tall sidewalls on a 205-70-14 just roll over on any brisk cornering. Good luck with your car.
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Old 01-23-2022, 05:37 PM   #36
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Well it seemed to me that you are asking for some easy upgrades to your car. The tire sizes I've suggested are all from real world experience on these cars as to what works and what doesn't work so well.
Thanks, I do appreciate the effort to help. But I think this might be a case where one person's experience is simply different from another's. It's a 14" rim, no matter what tire is on it. Tread width X aspect ratio yields the sidewall height. So, in the most extreme difference between the various sizes discussed: a 195/65/14 has sidewall height of 127 mm. A 205/70/14 has a sidewall height of 143 mm. That's a 12.6% (a little more than 1/2 inch) difference in sidewall height. That difference is height is generally offset somewhat by an increased thickness of the sidewall, and engineers do design tires to keep the tread on the road irrespective of the numbers stamped on the side. There are significant differences between brands and intended uses of different tires that might also affect a person's experience. Whatever 205/70/14 tire you tried obviously did not favorably impress you. However, I took this car 270 degrees through a 100 ft diameter roundabout at 50 mph with no loss of control. Then I did it again a few days later with my son in the car, just to have a witness. That's enough for me with respect to pushing it's limits in cornering.

205s are wider than a 195. They will possibly stop the car faster... but only possibly. I've put about 5000 miles on the tires on some pretty windy roads (e.g., NH 116S from Franconia to Wildwood). I've also clocked about 300,000 miles in various Volvo 240s, so this is a familiar car. All I can say is they feel fine to me, but I do also drive a 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood, so perhaps that has colored my perception.
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Old 01-23-2022, 05:43 PM   #37
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Old 01-23-2022, 06:22 PM   #38
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Those 205/70’s are over an inch taller than the 195’s Dave recommended. You not only get the benefit of a stiffer sidewall with the 195 which is what Dave was referring to, but also what amounts to a shorter rear gear which will increase your acceleration.

In your quest for a less slow car, it’s something you should consider.
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Old 01-23-2022, 06:54 PM   #39
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Faaaaaack. I'll do it. I just need to find a home for four new 205/70/14.

I located the same tire in 195/65/14 for $87 each. I assume these will fit the OEM 14" wheel, yes?

Can someone let me out of my locker now?
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Old 01-23-2022, 07:12 PM   #40
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I doubt the ~1 inch change in tire height is gonna make a meaningful difference in acceleration.. Certainly not a difference worth spending extra money on.
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Old 01-23-2022, 08:04 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by dmg4 View Post
Faaaaaack. I'll do it. I just need to find a home for four new 205/70/14.

I located the same tire in 195/65/14 for $87 each. I assume these will fit the OEM 14" wheel, yes?

Can someone let me out of my locker now?
Fack 'em. Run your monster truck tires all you want. Unless they are paying for it, then free tires is free tires man.

But seriously yous guise need to lay off the tire talk and start talking about building a stroker motor with ITB's and a worked head!
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Old 01-23-2022, 08:48 PM   #42
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Fack 'em. Run your monster truck tires all you want. Unless they are paying for it, then free tires is free tires man.

But seriously yous guise need to lay off the tire talk and start talking about building a stroker motor with ITB's and a worked head!
Exactly this. Bigger tires are better on the highway. Spend your money on a turbo or doubling the amount of valves if you really want speed.

fwiw I've been running 25.5 inch tall tires on my turbo 240 with a 3.31 rear. It's nice to have a crappy old car that can comfortably cruise above 80.
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Old 01-23-2022, 10:37 PM   #43
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Hi 205/70/14 is a terrible size for your 240

I amazed you found a tire shop that would sell you such an
obviously wrong sized, too tall, too wide, too heavy, too much side wall tire

The suggestion of 195/75/14 is even more sadly laughable

Easiest upgrade is 185/70/14 and get a sedan speedo for some quicker times and dead-nuts
or get some big boy 15s and try a 205/60/15

Also your 0-60 is probably better with the stock M cam
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Old 01-23-2022, 11:02 PM   #44
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Uffda. I tire of tires.

Nothing more to do now until it gets a bit warmer and I can see about increasing compression and perhaps open up the exhaust.
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Old 01-24-2022, 12:25 AM   #45
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Uffda. I tire of tires.

Nothing more to do now until it gets a bit warmer and I can see about increasing compression and perhaps open up the exhaust.
Exhaust first.

I can't remember, did you get an adjustable cam gear? That's worth a bit too. It's more about tuning the torque curve into a useful range for your setup vs just adding power.
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Old 01-24-2022, 02:46 AM   #46
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VX, IDK why?
Sounds like you're kinda going backwards for longevity for a rare/desirable/useful 245 Classic in a cold climate to delete the airbox pre-heat &/or install a cam that won't stump pull/idle glass smooth off idle?

T > M unless it needs to pass CA NOX in L.A. from brand new for an OEM thru the warranty.

The VX-copy in inferior/non OE metal is fairly worthless, I guess it has less reversion than the B does if you have to drive in the city/don't blow the carbon out of it all the time or have CI FI continuously rinsing the backs of the valves point-blank with a fine/variable nozzled spray, otherwise I'd just install a T or A of cheap & factory reliable / quality metal cams?

Is the auto-tragic a little worn out or injectors dirty or compression questionable or crankcase vent a little stuffed/sludged up?
Pre-heat tube installed & working probably isn't a *bad* thing if you live somewhere where 0ºF is common...

Super light 240 classic wheels & 185-70-14s are going to be nice & light to spin up.
205-70 is real heavy/flubbery for 240 steelies or classic wheels for economy or acceleration / both.
Other than the crazy wide sidewalls to protect the rim, IDK what you're really gaining there?

195-70-14 / mini-truck size is kinda the go-to for the modern compromise instead of OEM wagooon 185R14 (tho as dl242gt sez, classics & some 1993 245s w/optional classic wheels took the sedan size & speedometer (as did 245Turbos on Virgo wheels).

IDK on 'n/a 240 performance' it's a slow & old car? Be happy it goes at all & hopefully the motor/drivetrain's healthy & it drives straight & isn't (too) bent ?
Why make it noisier, risk breaking anything you probably can't get anymore in quality/proven bolt-in no fuss replacement/OE, get worse MPG or have less 'usable power' @ off idle &/or super lean-burning max cruising efficiency in the flat ~1500-2200rpm that either the super lazy AW-70 w/slow stall speed converter/tall gears lazily keeps the engine at &/or super wide ratio M46/47s have w/super tall 3.31 rear axle or impact longevity?

Is this thing super strict CA emissions 1993+ with pulse-air injection & EGR?
Delete or block that off (to be saved if restoring to stock or CA squeaky-clean compliance) if it isn't required / install different ECU/ICU for 49-state version?
Not really good for anymore peak HP (no EGR at heavy load), but usually an MPG or two cruising or HP available at low rpm to pull-along?

I haven't had melted cats be an issue on cared for non-abused cars that ran tip top & didn't have some other fairly severe issue?
Worn / non-reactive catalyst, sure, but it still flows?
The OE kitty has a larger honeycomb than most aftermarket & bolts in & works & lasts?
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Old 01-24-2022, 06:19 AM   #47
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Good morning All,

We're coming up on 3 pages now, so some review is in order for those without the time or inclination to read the entire missive. This is causing us to plow some old ground.

Here's the short version:

1. Car is a 1993 240 Classic wagon with 145000 miles. Looks new. All stage 0 maintenance and then some was performed: plugs, wires, cap, new injectors (Bosch), new belts, hoses, filters, fluids flushed and replaced, flame trap and oil breather box replaced, replaced all vacuum lines.
2. 0-60 time afterwards was about 16 seconds
3. Installed IPD VX cam. At the same time replaced the missing duct from the exhaust manifold to the airbox.
4. 0-60 time 15.4
5. Started post here
6. On suggestions received, disconnected duct from manifold
7. 0-60 time dropped to 13.4 seconds. Much joy. It used to rev to 4000, hang there, then shift to 3rd at 55 mph. Now it revs steady to 5500 rpm, and it will stay in 2nd well past 60 mph.

Horses beaten to death:

1. Some of you don't like automatic transmissions.
2. Most of you don't like the tires that are on the car.
3. It's going to be "relatively" slow no matter what I do, but there is room to shave about 1.5 more seconds off the 0-60 time.
4. A few of you don't like the IPD VX cam.

What's left:

1. Too damn cold here to work on the car any more right now (8F this morning)
2. Next steps will be increase compression to about 10:1 and/or exhaust mods to 2.25". 531 head, if I can get one, planed 0.040". Otherwise 530 same plane. I can afford to run premium fuel.
3. At that point, I'll be done. Bang per buck drops precipitously beyond that, and we'd get onto odd mods.


And now, back to our show.....

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Old 01-24-2022, 09:21 AM   #48
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Idk if you’ll be able to effectively really use more cam than a T or possibly A with the stock super slow stall converter laaa-z shifting AW-70 & 3.73s, even if yours is one of the 245 classics that came with ski-Dan 185-70-14 tires on the super light strong mesh classic wheels to spin up?

Idk how much the pistons stick up above the block deck (if at all on your particular B230F), can order a thinner mls headgasket or deck the block for tighter squish/more compression?
Much North of 10:1 compression isn’t likely to run on regular gas as well as it did originally without pinging w/ stock EMS &/or a stump puller emissions cam.
B230F is quoted at 9.8:1 from the factory.

The original under-axle crush in the exhaust & chambered rear muffler are the major exhaust restrictions apart from where the downpipe joins together.

The earlier downpipes have slightly longer twin tubes & are a bit more durable (tho no compressed fibers for sound isolation, but thicker better metal), tho the late 1992-1993 use the iron ring/donut flange & in some cases 7/9 style cat, so the early dp isn’t exactly bolt into a 1993. Only a couple years of DP/their support bracket fit the later 4-speed auto cars.

Idk how worthy 80mph cruise is as a goal in one of these; given their aerodynamics MPG drops like a stone above 70mph.

The 205 steam rollers aren’t really a value-add except more rim protection on the 14s.
Burn them down or keep getting free take-offs?

If it’s really 0F out you probably want the airbox preheat installed and working for longevity, strictly speaking…
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Old 01-24-2022, 10:04 AM   #49
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Idk if you’ll be able to effectively really use more cam than a T or possibly A with the stock super slow stall converter laaa-z shifting AW-70 & 3.73s.

Much North of 10:1 compression isn’t likely to run on regular gas as well as it did originally without pinging w/ stock EMS &/or a stump puller emissions cam.
B230F is quoted at 9.8:1 from the factory.

The original under-axle crush in the exhaust & chambered rear muffler are the major exhaust restrictions apart from where the downpipe joins together.

If it’s really 0F out you probably want the airbox preheat installed and working for longevity, strictly speaking…
Well, at this point I'm really happy with the VX cam. It now idles as smooth as the M cam that I swapped, and the butt dynamometer shows equal stump pulling characteristics. The big difference between the M and the VX in my car really shows up as power above 3000 rpm, and in the rpm ceiling. I needed a little more oomph for passing, and now I have some, but I'd not turn down a little more. Gas mileage is fine. I'll report back more when I get chance to drive it far enough on the highway to see if it is further improved.

Duly noted on compression. I'll run premium fuel for now, and full-time if I increase compression. Cheap insurance against knock in a car with no knock sensors or ignition compensation for the same.

Yeah, WHY is that crush even there in the first place??? It must have some purpose, as it would require intent to do that. The crush is even there on the IPD high-flow 2.25" SS exhaust. Why, why, why upsize the pipe and then stomp it like that at the axle?

About the heated air intake: I think it's primarily purpose was emissions control to cause the MAF to lean out fueling at low temperatures; nothing more, and it is irrelevant very soon after startup. This car warms up incredibly FAST! Even at 0F, the engine is near optimum at about 1.5 miles from takeoff. Lots of aluminum in there. Cabin heating system was probably specked by Satan.

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Old 01-24-2022, 10:15 AM   #50
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volvo loved to gimp the exhaust, the port, the dp merge, the axle crush, perhaps for cost/emissions?

Your volvo with ez116k ignition has a knock sensor and does per cylinder knock retard and short term trims. The built-in curve is atrocious though
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