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Old 01-30-2022, 06:04 PM   #101
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Ran another test, "wet" this time. Added 2 ml of 10-30 oil to each cylinder, warm engine, throttle wide open, cranked until pressure stabilized (about 5 crank revolutions) with all plugs removed.

1= 150 psi
2= 150 psi
3= 170 psi
4= 165 psi

I'm still wondering why a 9.1:1 compression ratio would be expected to yield a compression pressure more than 9.1 atmospheres (133.7 psi). There a number of reasons why it might be less, but why more, and how much more is considered "normal".

I'm not overly concerned about these numbers; just curious. Mean = 159 psi, with a standard deviation of about 10 psi.
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Old 01-30-2022, 08:03 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
VX, IDK why?
Sounds like you're kinda going backwards for longevity for a rare/desirable/useful 245 Classic in a cold climate to delete the airbox pre-heat &/or install a cam that won't stump pull/idle glass smooth off idle?

Pre-heat tube installed & working probably isn't a *bad* thing if you live somewhere where 0ºF is common...
^^ Good points, ...the issue with the flap is when the thermostat fails, it fails 'open' . Then you run into the problem of shortening your AMM lifespan besides continuing to send warm air into a warm motor. The air flap/thermostat is not a harmful feature if it is working properly.

https://www.jtoutfitters.com/product...-b230-d24-b23/

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Old 01-30-2022, 10:28 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by Otto Mattik View Post
The air flap/thermostat is not a harmful feature if it is working properly.
Agreed. I fixed it. I also fabricated a new foam gasket for the flapper when it was reinstalled, as the original one had long since turned to dust.

And now, about that question on compression.......
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Old 01-30-2022, 10:35 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by dmg4 View Post
What am I missing in my assumptions? A temperature effect of compression in PV=nRT? It was a "dry" test (no oil added to cylinders).
Are you holding the throttle wide open when doing this?
Most NA redblocks, even with a mild cam, should be at least 150psi cold if they’re healthy. Higher comp NA motor will be 200+psi of cranking pressure even with a big cam.

You can use ideal gas law to get a hand wavy idea, but you’re not accounting for:
Temp rise under compression
Fuel injected
Ramming effect from the momentum of the air
Valve overlap and charge loss

All I’m saying is that the cranking pressures you posted are what I’d expect for an engine that was needing some sort internal work, especially with those numbers being “hot”.
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Old 01-30-2022, 11:15 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by culberro View Post
You can use ideal gas law to get a hand wavy idea, but you’re not accounting for:
Temp rise under compression
Fuel injected
Ramming effect from the momentum of the air
Valve overlap and charge loss
^+1. Don't forget baro-correction. 13kft & hot day on cold-dry engine might be a lot different than sea level & unusually cold...

Stock flat-top piston B23F was ~225psi mostly cold across all 4 holes near sea level/sea temp (55F 60% humidity).
Little more w/T instead of the M-cam.

B230s unless pampered are made in large numbers/what's for dinner for most of us made 85-95 (& squirter motors fare a bit better if cared for... if N/A or fan clutch is any good & oil gets changed/it gets any highway miles), but are mostly bean-counter total garbage cheap junk that lose compression easy, really...
...that said B21/23 parts are getting rarer/less available & are an older design...
More tooling drift in the later years tho...

Obviously it's not necessarily indicative of total blowby/leakage under stress/pressure.
Redneck test; if it doesn't lose fluid over night & pumps up to compression in 2-3 fast hits within ~10-20psi on the first 1-2 hits cold the engine's prolly healthy(ish) if the starter/battery's any good...
..or just shut it off from ~900rpm A/C fast idle...if it takes a while to spin down (heavy flywheel or not/some variability there) it's probably junk?

A good B23 you shut it off & it stops basically immediately (not quite like a Dieseasl) for an old tractor gas engine...

More cam & stock compression ratio I'd expect lower compression #s @ cranking speeds...especially with 'overlap' of the lobes...

As to T-stat or not? Disable or test it seasonally if you live somewhere where you *need* it? IDK what to tell ya?
Short of block heater & the gucci oil?

As to 0-100kph, there's variability in that; temp/tire traction & how brutally they're willing to clutch drop &/or power brake the thing in ideal conditions or for confirmation bias for their articles as magazines often did (tho often apples-apples comparisons w/different cars?).
How often is that going to be applicable/meaningful to DD use?

Sounds like it's a cold weather car that got all washed down / ran rich cold & putted around town & the engines's typical B230 worn out junk.
The VX will have somewhat lower compression #s than a T or M cam, but not *that* much if the starter (late starters are kinda bosch Brazil junk for daily driver use oftentimes...the early W.Germany brush type starters work better on a marginal battery in the cold (or rare replacement W.Germany late starter...GWTT @ this late date...often dealer serviced cars got a quality starter on some models 10-20 years ago w/misdiagnosed wiring or ignition switch fault)) or battery's any good/cranking speeds are as expected w/throttle open...

Back to square 1/ no point in modifying it to compensate for a worn out engine/stressing it out/beating on it further?
That said, in practical DD use on USA 240s, the VX I doubt has really any significant HP gains over just using a factory T or A cam.
For city driving w/o the K-jet washing the desposits off the valves on the old fuel used when K-jets were installed on these cars OE I see no advantage to the B-cam, really.
Works OK in manual trans B21Fs I guess or if you beat on the EFI car/don't drive it in the city w/any idle time &/or have to past strict CA emissions w/an engine higher compression than a B21F emissions-era turd strangled by N/A K-jets...

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There's a reason they put tiny little light-assed wheels on these cars.
Hey but how can I ruin my ball joints/shell/hydraulic-assist steering rack the last reputable rebuilder bailed on w/reflected moment of inertia from the wrong wheels/tires, ruin the predictable handling/balance/traction break-away, make the wheels/hubs/wheel bearings easier to bend/ damage & harder to straighten/repair, not *really* have any more meaningful ground clearance/traction for actual off-roading like an actual SUV as well as have decent hipermiler acceleration & fuel economy & less aero-drag @ speed?
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Old 01-30-2022, 11:37 PM   #106
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Are you holding the throttle wide open when doing this?
Most NA redblocks, even with a mild cam, should be at least 150psi cold if they’re healthy. Higher comp NA motor will be 200+psi of cranking pressure even with a big cam.

You can use ideal gas law to get a hand wavy idea, but you’re not accounting for:
Temp rise under compression
Fuel injected
Ramming effect from the momentum of the air
Valve overlap and charge loss

All I’m saying is that the cranking pressures you posted are what I’d expect for an engine that was needing some sort internal work, especially with those numbers being “hot”.
Throttle is wide open. There is no fuel injected (fuse #4 and removal of pump relay disabled both pumps). Not sure how a ramming effect could occur on a parked car with the engine turning over at the speed generated by the starter. Valve overlap would lead to lower, not higher than expected pressures due to one valve being partially open on the compression stroke. I have not yet shaved the head, so this is still a stock NA motor with (reportedly) 9.1:1 compression.

The engine does have about 150K miles. There is zero oil consumption between changes at 3K mile intervals. Second test, wet, averaged 158 psi. So, now I'm about 20 psi over what would be expected under the ideal gas law.

Does that leave temperature increase during compression as the most likely explanation (assuming the gauge is accurate)?

I'm still not overly concerned about the compression numbers, given how well the engine runs and performs, and the readings are quite even between cylinders; which is also good. The original title of this thread is perhaps now a bit misleading, as the "S-L-O-W" issue turned out to reflect a malfunctioning airbox thermostat; nothing more. 0-60 times are 1-2 seconds faster than expected for stock, and that's with my monster truck tires (205/70/14).

I'll eventually have the original head off when the new shaved head arrives, and get a look at it, as well as the head gasket, but it runs and performs great right now. I guess we'll see what happens after the new (and shaved) head arrives and is installed.
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Old 01-30-2022, 11:44 PM   #107
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Here's a link to a Compression Testing Tutorial that explains why the simple CR*atmospheric pressure doesn't match the measured PSI: https://ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs...g-Tutorial.pdf

You can also do a google search for "dynamic compression ratio calculator" and some of them will try to estimate (poorly) cranking PSI given the engine measurements and cam intake closing angle.
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Old 01-30-2022, 11:53 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
^+1. Don't forget baro-correction. 13kft & hot day on cold-dry engine might be a lot different than sea level & unusually cold...

Stock flat-top piston B23F was ~225psi mostly cold across all 4 holes near sea level/sea temp (55F 60% humidity).
Little more w/T instead of the M-cam.

B230s unless pampered are made in large numbers/what's for dinner for most of us made 85-95 (& squirter motors fare a bit better if cared for... if N/A or fan clutch is any good & oil gets changed/it gets any highway miles), but are mostly bean-counter total garbage cheap junk that lose compression easy, really...
...that said B21/23 parts are getting rarer/less available & are an older design...
More tooling drift in the later years tho...

Obviously it's not necessarily indicative of total blowby/leakage under stress/pressure.
Redneck test; if it doesn't lose fluid over night & pumps up to compression in 2-3 fast hits within ~10-20psi on the first 1-2 hits cold the engine's prolly healthy(ish) if the starter/battery's any good...
..or just shut it off from ~900rpm A/C fast idle...if it takes a while to spin down (heavy flywheel or not/some variability there) it's probably junk?

A good B23 you shut it off & it stops basically immediately (not quite like a Dieseasl) for an old tractor gas engine...

More cam & stock compression ratio I'd expect lower compression #s @ cranking speeds...especially with 'overlap' of the lobes...

As to T-stat or not? Disable or test it seasonally if you live somewhere where you *need* it? IDK what to tell ya?
Short of block heater & the gucci oil?

As to 0-100kph, there's variability in that; temp/tire traction & how brutally they're willing to clutch drop &/or power brake the thing in ideal conditions or for confirmation bias for their articles as magazines often did (tho often apples-apples comparisons w/different cars?).
How often is that going to be applicable/meaningful to DD use?

Sounds like it's a cold weather car that got all washed down / ran rich cold & putted around town & the engines's typical B230 worn out junk.
The VX will have somewhat lower compression #s than a T or M cam, but not *that* much if the starter (late starters are kinda bosch Brazil junk for daily driver use oftentimes...the early W.Germany brush type starters work better on a marginal battery in the cold (or rare replacement W.Germany late starter...GWTT @ this late date...often dealer serviced cars got a quality starter on some models 10-20 years ago w/misdiagnosed wiring or ignition switch fault)) or battery's any good/cranking speeds are as expected w/throttle open...

Back to square 1/ no point in modifying it to compensate for a worn out engine/stressing it out/beating on it further?
That said, in practical DD use on USA 240s, the VX I doubt has really any significant HP gains over just using a factory T or A cam.
For city driving w/o the K-jet washing the desposits off the valves on the old fuel used when K-jets were installed on these cars OE I see no advantage to the B-cam, really.
Works OK in manual trans B21Fs I guess or if you beat on the EFI car/don't drive it in the city w/any idle time &/or have to past strict CA emissions w/an engine higher compression than a B21F emissions-era turd strangled by N/A K-jets...


Hey but how can I ruin my ball joints/shell/hydraulic-assist steering rack the last reputable rebuilder bailed on w/reflected moment of inertia from the wrong wheels/tires, ruin the predictable handling/balance/traction break-away, make the wheels/hubs/wheel bearings easier to bend/ damage & harder to straighten/repair, not *really* have any more meaningful ground clearance/traction for actual off-roading like an actual SUV as well as have decent hipermiler acceleration & fuel economy & less aero-drag @ speed?
Lifted is the new poseur lowered! 1st world problems meme, where R U?

Ummm..... OK (think to self: "Best example of argle bargle read in years!").
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Old 01-31-2022, 12:25 AM   #109
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Sounds like everything has worn relatively evenly. You could try a leak down test if you are concerned about the results. But if it runs fine, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Old 01-31-2022, 12:47 AM   #110
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The later fan clutches don't last as well as the earlier ones made in Japan/shared en masse with the quality-controlled (mechanically-speaking, cheap body/interior raw materials spread thin, often) Japanese cars of the era, the E-fan turbo cars driven in hot climates w/A/C on the motors are usually smoked/cooked or running around w/oil leaks & pint of roofing tar for oil...

Cold weather cars usually if left idling/washed down & not properly warmed up @ light cruise efficiently for time sans gentle or block heat are often in sad shape, regardless of the miles being low after 20+ years of that use & abuse...
...we're sorta a long way away from 10yr/100K federal lemon laws or extended warranties by now that any manufacturer designs &/or plans for (or even probably could plan for, realistically?).
@ some point on the 'here there be monsters' portion of the 27-30yo 'undefined' part of the redblock map, there are a lot of unknowns & extreme/severity , total # of temp/warmup cycles (& incorrect operation thereof in straitened circumstances?) & total years has to factor in (as does ??? / fill in the ________ rando/else)?

Can't really win w/B230s easily (even tho they sold them a lot more years than B23s or B21FTs); sure they made them '85-95 in the USA, but Volvo cheaped out on all the parts/quality control & tooling drift/cooling system is more questionable later years & the car still drives 'fine'/'acceptably' for the owner on the adaptive memory/LH2.4 cars even if it's 'not fine' (washing down a hole or something...a 2.2 or 2.0 car would run badly/no adaptive memory & usually someone would bring it in for service before it ran that way for long when the cars were in the 'right' hands)..

They barely mitigated the blowby/overheating pistons riddle by '93 w/addition of squirters, but tooling drift, 2.4 adaptive memory & 'questionable' batch of fan clutches/'sudden death' plastic tanker radiators & heat-soaked/hot weather e-fan turbo cars is sorta working more against than for you @ this late date as far as 'squirter' low miler healthy B230s go...

That said, the late cars are better galvanized rust proofed & seam sealed, so the body holds up better in a lot of ways (softer outer metal/more worn out body tooling tho).

Redblock saga. It's a tractor so it can putt around lazily w/blowby, snapped T-belts, cooling system 'oops' moments & neglectful/abusive owners often-enough, tho?

Somewhere that cold, block heat, airbox T-stat/pre-heat hose in place, oil-water heat exchanger, something to block off cold air entering the engine bay, gucci 0W-something synthetic oil & correct warm up/spending as little time at generic EFI volvo 700rpm idling speed washing things down/running rich/heater valve shut until it reaches full T-stat temp is probably wise for longevity/economy/DD use?

The non-locking super slow stall speed converter AW70, 3.73s & light/small/repairable wheels & tires start to make a lot of sense from emissions, economy & longevity/simplicity standards & cost constraints on the 'base' model 240 that should have ended in '85 & been replaced by the base model 4-cylinder 700s in the day...especially w/ expectations of avg. stodgy Volvo customers, then...

As to quoted compression #s or not, IDK what happened there @ Volvo
Too much time @ factory production speed/volume &/or too many variables &/or too much tooling drift to admit to/check for quality control to machine all the heads/blocks/crank centerlines to the same height perfectly (esp. that late in the Redblock game?), HG compressed thickness variation for different markets/models & too much time to dummy them up & determine how much the piston is above or below deck or something? CC it yourself for sure.
Most are a bit low, tho strangely late B21FTs I've seen the slugs come up a bit above deck & are close to the published spec? No idea?
VW admitted as much as that their 'published' CRs factor in 'normal carbon buildup,' whatever the heck that means?

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Old 01-31-2022, 05:19 AM   #111
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Here's a link to a Compression Testing Tutorial that explains why the simple CR*atmospheric pressure doesn't match the measured PSI: https://ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs...g-Tutorial.pdf
Thank you so much! This answers my question. If you are not in the education business, they need you.

So, applying the rule of thumb suggested in the above reference to correct the assumptions of the ideal gas law (18.5 X CR) would yield a pressure of 168 psi for a compression ratio of 9.1:1. At a mean pressure of 158 psi (SD = 10 psi), it would seem this engine is not so far off the mark from "new".

If you're a fan of the Ford 8N you should come to upstate NY. We have about 500 vineyards in the immediate area, and most have a 8N parked off to the side. They're a perfect fit for a vineyard alley. I just finished restoring a late '80s Deere 755. Along with the 240, those are my favorite toys. The vintage tractor show here is huge, and a major social event of the season (odd, but true). See: https://nysteamengineassociation.com/pageant-of-steam/

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Old 01-31-2022, 07:37 AM   #112
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Cold weather cars usually if left idling/washed down & not properly warmed up @ light cruise efficiently for time sans gentle or block heat are often in sad shape, regardless of the miles being low after 20+ years of that use & abuse...
...we're sorta a long way away from 10yr/100K federal lemon laws or extended warranties by now that any manufacturer designs &/or plans for (or even probably could plan for, realistically?). @ some point on the 'here there be monsters' portion of the 27-30yo 'undefined' part of the redblock map, there are a lot of unknowns & extreme/severity , total # of temp/warmup cycles (& incorrect operation thereof in straitened circumstances?) & total years has to factor in (as does ??? / fill in the ________ rando/else)?
Ummm... OKaaaaaay (slowly reaching for pepper spray right now).

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Old 01-31-2022, 08:57 PM   #113
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Old 01-31-2022, 10:24 PM   #114
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Ummm... OKaaaaaay (slowly reaching for pepper spray right now).
Yep. We think he might have the largest repository of Volvo SKU numbers stuck in his head, but we're not sure since no one can understand him......
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Old 01-31-2022, 11:16 PM   #115
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Yep. We think he might have the largest repository of Volvo SKU numbers stuck in his head, but we're not sure since no one can understand him......


Pretty sure he knows more about RWD Volvos than all of us combined, but some / most of us are too stupid to understand what he's saying.

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Old 02-01-2022, 06:43 AM   #116
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some / most of us are too stupid to understand what he's saying.
I believe the issue is in transmission more than reception. There may be a grain of great wisdom encrypted in there somewhere, between the layers of irrelevant screed. I can respect that, but the difficulty in recognizing it is not the fault of the reader, and it is not very helpful.

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Old 02-01-2022, 07:38 AM   #117
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Yep. We think he might have the largest repository of Volvo SKU numbers stuck in his head, but we're not sure since no one can understand him......
Just a lowly euro-trash / Bosch FI guy that came of age @ the wrong time/place/culture/people & recovering consummate junkyard dog re-combiner & backyard mechanic...

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Old 02-01-2022, 08:10 AM   #118
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Just a lowly euro-trash / Bosch FI guy that came of age @ the wrong time/place/culture/people & recovering consummate junkyard dog re-combiner & backyard mechanic...
Fair enough, but why get into full pages of trash talk against the NA B230F, and other aspects beyond control? That's what you get when you acquire a 1993 240 Classic wagon, along with an automatic transmission. Mea culpa: perhaps I can get different tires next time. It should be clear after 5 pages that I'd just like just a little more umph, there's a process proscribed in this very forum to do that, and I'm trying to follow that advice. It's not like I'm going scrap the motor and transmission. I've already swapped in a moderate cam. I like the result, so it stays. I'll have the head shaved a bit, and afterwards upgrade the exhaust if it needs it. Otherwise, it's mission accomplished: a sleeper 240 that truly sleeps its way to 60 mph in about 12 seconds instead of 16. I'm not racing the car, and the 0-60 stat is just a useful and widely-understood means of comparing effects after certain mods. The car just needs a bit more power to drive enjoyably on the interstates out here, where 80 mph is the slow lane.

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Old 02-01-2022, 08:36 AM   #119
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Did say that the B230 is 'what's for dinner' for most of us (me included?).
IDK where 'trash talk' comes in, so much as what to realistically/reasonably expect to try to evaluate or even try to find a 'good' condition one for the avg. backyard mechanic w/rudimentary tools on a TB-budget?

But a *bit* of historical context is sometimes helpful there; Bofors that made the forged ~-mid-'84 crankshafts for the redblock quit for the most part / got more lucrative contracts & the bean counters @ Volvo went w/cast for all but the Penta 2.5L engines.

The 'low friction' B2xx engines got an 8 counter-weight cast crank, lighter pistons, slightly lower compression dished pistons in the B230F USA application for emissions/low grade gas w/o having to add other emissions gadgets/gizmos for upcoming much tightened '85 CA NOX requirement.
This helped reduce friction, oil shear, vibration, windage (primarily for emissions reasons tho not a bad thing by any means) & costs.

But w/the piston steered low friction B230s came some other side-effects & trade-offs:

Short little tippy pistons way up out of the oil windage slinging off the crank in the tall block prone to run hot & slap/lose compression, especially if the oil was of less than perfect quality & not kept topped up or contaminated from improper tune/running rich idling cold/improper warmup, weird wear patterns w/the tractor tolerances, metalurgy & piston steered arrangement, slipping/failure prone rubber lined 2pc crank pulleys, tooling drift on the last of them here & there/more quality control issues, cooling fan clutches more questionable on the last of them, sudden-death plastique tanker radiators, cooked out motors w/reactive heat-soaked cooling on hot weather 92+ E-fan turbo models, 180* thrust bearing can be a problem on '85-'87 B2xx in stiffer pressure plate manual trans models, that's all?

If you know to expect that going in from previous & shared experience (even if rather 'low grade' hearsay & anecdotal?), might not be surprised or perhaps disappointed by the results or might know what to consider as you tear them down or tear down enough of them as just a low budget all junkyard guy going for longevity & useful power/economy IDK?

There's a sort of group-think here. It's not as though I believe everything the factory did everything perfectly/they did no wrong or didn't cut corners, but just *try* to fill in some blanks/constraints that guys in white lab coats @ OEMs considered much more resource intensely, cautiously organizedly when they built/sold the cars w/warranties, but you decide how applicable, relevant or optimally what the the cars came equipped with meets your needs...

It's not meant as 'trash talk' or as a 'personal attack' or 'insult?'
16secs. sounds entirely reasonable for heavier/larger rolling-radius wheels/tires & a ??? health ??? used/junkyard engine that's 30 years old (B230 specific experience or otherwise?)?

If it were a probability & game theory algorithm problem for least resources ($, time, space, fuel, longest uninterrupted use) used/wasted & conservation maximized without deviating *too* much from 'the (manufacturer's) plan' on a high-volume planned obsolescence complicated mass-produced good to be used as a tool while trying to determine if the performance #s observed are reasonable/expected & consistent w/what's available all used/junkyard, 30 years later, how would you write it w/accumulated experience & theory & test against others experience, consistently?

Last edited by Kjets On a Plane; 02-01-2022 at 08:55 AM..
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Old 02-01-2022, 02:02 PM   #120
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Another good upgrade for the n/a B230 with LH2.4 is to chip the EZK computer. This resulted in better throttle response and a bit better miles per tank. Probably a bit more power as well. You'll need to get a chip able EZK unit and you can get the chip for it from sbabbs here on the board. It does need premium fuel but has been a worthwhile upgrade in my experience.
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Old 02-01-2022, 02:29 PM   #121
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Can't say your results seem too far outside of the expected.

I don't like the VX cam and it seems to underwhelm consistently. Head with undersized exhaust valve shouldn't have cam with undersized exhaust lobe. Cranking compression does seem a little weak. More compression and A or V cam would be my choice, V cam has more lift and a little better idle quality in my experience.
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Old 02-01-2022, 03:44 PM   #122
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Originally Posted by redblockpowered View Post
Can't say your results seem too far outside of the expected.

I don't like the VX cam and it seems to underwhelm consistently. Head with undersized exhaust valve shouldn't have cam with undersized exhaust lobe. Cranking compression does seem a little weak. More compression and A or V cam would be my choice, V cam has more lift and a little better idle quality in my experience.
The VX cam was likely designed to underwhelm, but it helps to keep your expectations low. In my car it dropped the 0-60 time from 15.4 to 13.4. I enjoyed that outcome. I'll leave it to others to decide if that's worth mention.

The lack of oil consumption, present pressures, and minor pressure change between the wet and dry test makes me think any lower-than-spec pressure is more likely to be valve related than rings. We'll see. Once the new head is shaved and installed, I'll have some new data to report.
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Old 02-01-2022, 04:04 PM   #123
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Quote:
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The VX cam was likely designed to underwhelm, but it helps to keep your expectations low. In my car it dropped the 0-60 time from 15.4 to 13.4. I enjoyed that outcome. I'll leave it to others to decide if that's worth mention.

The lack of oil consumption, present pressures, and minor pressure change between the wet and dry test makes me think any lower-than-spec pressure is more likely to be valve related than rings. We'll see. Once the new head is shaved and installed, I'll have some new data to report.
You need to rethink your results. The VX cam did not drop your 0-60 times 2 seconds. The VX cam is good for maybe, 10 more horse power. That is not going to make a 2 second difference by itself.
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Old 02-01-2022, 05:28 PM   #124
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You need to rethink your results. The VX cam did not drop your 0-60 times 2 seconds. The VX cam is good for maybe, 10 more horse power. That is not going to make a 2 second difference by itself.
I'm reminded of a story of an expert navigator on an expedition. When asked to plot the coordinates of the party, he underwent an extensive analysis, used his knowledge and experience, and announced his finding: "You see that mountain peak about 6 miles east? According to my analysis, we're over there".

I know it's a long slog to read this thread from the beginning, but it's not complex. The process is all documented. The VX cam installation was the only mod. The replicated 0-60 time was 15.4 seconds before, 13.4 seconds after. I'm just following where the data leads here. Everything that has ever happened, at some time in past, happened for the first time.

Seriously, my guess is that the main reason for the improved time is that the engine now climbs past 4000 rpm steady all the way past 5500. With the original M cam, it would hang forever just above 4000, prompting a shift to 3rd gear, and that made the climb from 55 to 60 very slow. Now the car does not shift out of 2nd until past 70 mph. The only difference was the installation of the VX cam. So, what's more likely than the camshaft change as an explanation?

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Old 02-01-2022, 05:45 PM   #125
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So, what's more likely than the camshaft change as an explanation?
you touched the kickdown cable
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