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Old 02-02-2022, 06:43 PM   #151
blkaplan
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I wouldn't bother with going tighter then .015 either.

With a VX cam and regular port work you wont notice the difference with .007" extra lift and you lose any margin for error before you get too tight.
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Old 02-02-2022, 07:34 PM   #152
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The B21ET 240 group A car made 375hp with standard valve sizes
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Old 02-03-2022, 11:00 AM   #153
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Doubt the stock exhaust valve to 37.5-38mm increment makes a lot of sense in most applications...

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Old 02-05-2022, 09:55 AM   #154
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Doubt the stock exhaust valve to 37.5-38mm increment makes a lot of sense in most applications...
The head off the race car is at R&L Engines now getting flow tested. Well, getting tested when he has time. 530 with 44/38 valves and port work. I'll let you know what the numbers end up being. I sent it with an F intake manifold and throttle body also, so we can get head numbers and then complete intake tract numbers.
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Old 02-05-2022, 02:19 PM   #155
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I had the intake tested when I had my 531 head done a few years ago. It may be in Garys spreadsheet. Not sure but I can tell you the efi intake was a big restriction on head flow total. My guy ported it a little for me to help.
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Old 02-16-2022, 08:51 PM   #156
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An update: the rebuilt cylinder head has arrived, shaved 0.040" as suggested. If I didn't know it was a rebuild, I'd swear it was NOS (thank you, Clearwater Cylinder Head). It's absolutely pristine, and it was $475 with free shipping, all original Volvo parts used in the rebuild. Next, I've collected all the pieces needed to upgrade/upsize the exhaust: 2.5" stainless starting at the 2:1 collector, back to a new 2.5" cat convertor, then more 2.5" ss pipe to a 2.5" 6"X14" straight-through muffler, more 2.5 stainless back to the axle, and then it's a cheap stock Starla turbo exhaust 2.25" back to the tailpipe. Overkill for the NA engine in it's present form, but future-proof if I go for more in the future, and easy to upgrade to 2.5" all the way back whenever. Found a welder with great skills, and a retired craftsman who still bends pipe to fit (harder to find than i ever thought it would be). Big-box muffler chains don't even want to look at the car if they can't find a pre-mangled pipe in their catalog. Now all I need is the time to assemble this puzzle. More later.
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Old 02-17-2022, 10:03 AM   #157
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Another quick question:

I know my options to adjust ignition timing are limited in a 1993 B230F, but if this were a GM LT1 V8, where I'm on more familiar turf, I'd simply remove the PCM from a donor car and send it out to one of many services to add a custom tuning with a change in ignition timing included. The GM PCMs are easy to find and cheap, and a tuning can be had for as little as $125. They pop in and out very easily: 10 minutes, tops.

Is something similar the case for the B230F? I don't mind switching to 93 octane fuel if there is a commensurate bang per buck, especially as I'd have the original pcm to return to stock if desired, but it would better to keep any change in ignition timing to a degree that did not make 93 octane an absolute requirement.

OK, pile on.
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Old 02-17-2022, 10:27 AM   #158
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You can buy chips and install them yourself with 1 caveat being some of the EZK (ignition computers) don't have a board to accept a chip so you'll need to find one that does. Colloquially called a goldbox EZK. The fuel LH box will accept a chip replacement.
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Old 02-17-2022, 10:31 AM   #159
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The fuel/LH computer is located under the passenger kick panel trim to the right, and the ignition/EZK box is bolted to the passenger firewall under the dash.

The NA engine responds very well to some tweaked mapping, especially right off idle/low RPM ime
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Old 02-17-2022, 01:32 PM   #160
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I remember seeing a thread about jumping terminals 18 and 19 to get 3° of advance across the board.
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Old 02-17-2022, 01:51 PM   #161
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OK. If I wanted to acquire a upgraded chip for my NA 1993 B230F, shaved 0.040 head, IPD VX cam, 2.5" exhaust, and did not necessarily want to be committed to 93 octane but perhaps a very modest increase in performance, from whom do I acquire such an item, or am I looking for a unicorn, and I just need to fill up with 93 (not the end of the world, that's what all my other cars demand).

Any comments on the plan for the exhaust system?
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Old 02-17-2022, 02:34 PM   #162
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As is, you won't need to run premium fuel. It'll run just fine with stock ECUs and regular fuel.

You can definitely get a better fuel and ignition map though, and you will notice the differences.
I'd talk to KLR142 or reach out to "redblockpowered": https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=355788
Or grab some from ebay or Europe.
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Old 02-17-2022, 03:58 PM   #163
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The "pink label" EZK units as found on the first year of NA LH2.4 240s (which is 1989) are chippable.

That said, I have a few for sale if you want to buy one.

If so, message me with an offer.
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Old 02-17-2022, 07:48 PM   #164
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Regarding chips: anyone know of a video or online tutorial on precisely what is swapped, soldered, and where? I know the approximate location of the target. Now, if the task at hand was to destroy it, that is sufficient. But to do something more sophisticated I need more information.
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Old 02-17-2022, 07:59 PM   #165
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Sorry don't know of any video. But it's pretty easy. You are changing the EPROM chip in both the EZK and fuel computer.
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Old 02-17-2022, 10:23 PM   #166
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Here's the thread I was thinking of. I may mess around with this. I have an A cam advanced 4°.
https://www.turbobricks.com/forums/s...t=ignition+940
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Old 02-18-2022, 12:24 AM   #167
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I found two hilariously bad videos on YouTube describing the process of swapping chips in the EZK and fueling computers. This one is a beaut. Something goes terribly wrong (death by static shock?) at about 6:29 into the clip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8JCIe-lC3M

There is certainly a need for something (indeed anything!) better.

And then there's this one, which is useful, but somewhat creepy at several points. Wait for the part where he inexplicably barks F*&K into the camera. Tourett Syndrome? The fact that he's holding a mall-ninja knife at the time adds to the effect. See:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ab5rwInMkwE

Any tips on an easy way to determine if the EZK in the car is of the "gold" type without too much gutting?

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Old 02-18-2022, 12:41 AM   #168
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The plastic box will be a gold color. Pull back the footwell cover (if it’s still there) and see what color the EZK is.
Any EZK can be upgraded to have a chip socket for easy swapping. Just unsolder the chip, add socket, then add EPROM.
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Old 02-18-2022, 12:49 AM   #169
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Quote:
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The plastic box will be a gold color.
D'Oh! (slaps forehead).
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Old 02-18-2022, 07:38 PM   #170
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Ordered the EZK and fueling chips from Redblockpowered. Look out Prius. I'm coming for you.
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Old 02-18-2022, 11:14 PM   #171
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you won't have a gold one, they are like 94 95 turbo only
however you could use a gold turbo one with that NA chip.
Gold ones are much more expensive than the early black ones
that is some, not all, EZK 140 and 146
Most likely you have a chippable 9 series ECU, (933, 946, 951) that looks like that knucklehead's video
Attached Images
File Type: jpg EZK_LH24_140_Chipable_02.jpg (31.1 KB, 98 views)
File Type: jpg EZK_LH24_146_Chipable_02.jpg (60.9 KB, 101 views)
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Old 02-19-2022, 05:56 AM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philski o'flood View Post
Most likely you have a chippable 9 series ECU, (933, 946, 951) that looks like that knucklehead's video
Is the chip in the above units soldered in place, or press-fit?
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Old 02-19-2022, 01:26 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmg4 View Post
Is the chip in the above units soldered in place, or press-fit?
those are the EZKs, the daughter card is the vertical board and the chip and chip socket are under the plastic cover.

The fuel ECUs have the same chip and chip socket set up on their main board
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Old 02-19-2022, 02:10 PM   #174
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Many of the N/A LH2.4 740 have a chip able EZK. You can also buy the daughter board kit and modify any EZK. The kit is available from user duder check out the link in his signature and Classic Swede also sells the kit.
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Old 02-19-2022, 07:45 PM   #175
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OK, I'm new to this. I had nightmarish visions of trying to solder that centipede-like EPROM in place after, and perhaps worse, "unsoldering" the OEM EPROM from it's socket. My question was perhaps naive: it appears that the chip is pushed into the socket, and not soldered. Have I got it right now?
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