240 alternator bracket alternative

Marvelous3 · 05-19-2022, 07:06 PM

So, crux of the issue is i am currently dealing with the bolt for the mounting bracket for the tension on the alternator is broken off flush with the block. This is the third time this has happened on my red wagon. I?m not really wanting to timesert it again only for the bolt to break off again in a year or two. Grade 8 bolt didnt seem to help.

Doesn?t someone make a bracket that does away with the sliding tensioner?

Or, can i just move the alternator over to the drivers side? I dont need the ac compressor so is there a way the alternator can take its spot? I can move the wiring nbd. Would really like to free up the passenger side of the motor for this holset I?ve been wanting to swap in.

dl242gt · 05-19-2022, 07:17 PM

You can get metric hardware that is grade 10.9 or even 12.9. Moving the alternator to the low side on the left should just need some spacers to get the pulley alignment right. Should be able to adapt a sliding tensioner to the top mounting area used by the a/c compressor.

I remember you past post about it and Timesert has a Big Sert that is for repairing failed inserts. Is your upper tensioner the version with the long cylinder for the bolt and the bushing? Volvo knew that setup was weak and can break the bolt. The upper tensioner was updated to a shorter cylinder that holds the bushing and they added a solid metal spacer and the whole thing uses a longer bolt. It get a lot less side loading than the original setup.

culberro · 05-19-2022, 07:18 PM

The higher strength 10.9 bolts are just harder to drill out when they break.
Here's my ghetto solution that's still going strong 5 years later:
Take the adjuster arm, and weld some flat bar at a 90 to it (I used some scrap box-tubing I had). This flat bar pushes against the side of the block. It's ghetto, it works very well.

Or just move the alt to the other side.

Marvelous3 · 05-19-2022, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dl242gt

You can get metric hardware that is grade 10.9 or even 12.9. Moving the alternator to the low side on the left should just need some spacers to get the pulley alignment right. Should be able to adapt a sliding tensioner to the top mounting area used by the a/c compressor.

I remember you past post about it and Timesert has a Big Sert that is for repairing failed inserts. Is your upper tensioner the version with the long cylinder for the bolt and the bushing? Volvo knew that setup was weak and can break the bolt. The upper tensioner was updated to a shorter cylinder that holds the bushing and they added a solid metal spacer and the whole thing uses a longer bolt. It get a lot less side loading than the original setup.

Mine is the cylinder and bushing. I know it?s **** but was hoping the higher grade bolt would hold.

I think if my choices are bigsert or figuring out spacers to mount it where the ac compressor lives I?ll figure out the spacers. I guess i could find some 940 accessory brackets. That would give me a factory ac and alternator on the drivers side and a smaller ps pump on the drivers side. Not sure if that?s easier than some spacers.

dl242gt · 05-19-2022, 07:34 PM

Here are the part numbers for the updated tensioner. NLA although I was able to buy NOS ones on ebay.
1346365 tensioner arm
1346027 spacer
947760 bolt

You could make your own by cutting the long cylinder shorter
and making your own solid spacer. Let me know I can check measurements on the stuff.

Marvelous3 · 05-19-2022, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dl242gt

Here are the part numbers for the updated tensioner. NLA although I was able to buy NOS ones on ebay.
1346365 tensioner arm
1346027 spacer
947760 bolt

You could make your own by cutting the long cylinder shorter
and making your own solid spacer. Let me know I can check measurements on the stuff.

What year(s) did that come factory? Can keep and eye out at pull a part or check at voluparts and see what they have.

dl242gt · 05-19-2022, 07:49 PM

It's a 91 and newer update. Here are the parts for sale on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15491519557...EAAOSw4VViPM4i

Not my auction but it was at least a picture of what parts I mean.

kyote · 05-20-2022, 01:11 PM

You can run the 7/9 style bracket and a single belt on the alt to put it on the drivers side, that's what is on the redblock mail jeep. The belt rubs slightly but will self clearance on the timing cover. Been working great and opens up lots of room for activities!

sbabbs · 05-20-2022, 01:45 PM

Penta alternator bracket is on drivers side. Just another option like using the better 740 style also.

mikep · 05-20-2022, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbabbs

Penta alternator bracket is on drivers side. Just another option like using the better 740 style also.

The penta alternator is also spark arresting in case you freebase on that side while tuning.

Marvelous3 · 05-21-2022, 09:52 AM

What does the penta bracket do with the power steering pump and the ac compressor? Assuming it doesnt have provisions for either one because boat.

Radtap · 05-21-2022, 10:56 AM

Did you swap alternators? I kept breaking the tensioner bolt after I installed a Denso alt and then ordered belts for a 91+ 240 which are shorter than earlier belts 918mm iirc and original ones are 925mm, stopped breaking bolts after that

bobxyz · 05-21-2022, 01:04 PM

The old 55Amp B21 Alternator Bracket goes on the back side of the alternator mounting ear, and sits flush to the block, but doesn't include a tensioning bolt (you need to wedge it over by hand and then tighten it down). The depth of the newer Bosch 80A alternator mounting ear is shorter, and I don't know what a Denso has. You might be able to use a B21 bracket on the back side with spacers?

Pics (click for full size) -
Various brackets #3 is B21 Alt, #4 is B230 Alt
55A Alt with both B21 and B230 brackets on mounting ear
80A Alt next to above 55A alt - pulley and ear depths are slightly different

Radtap - for the brackets with the skinny tensioning bolts, you tension the belt, lock it down with the big cross bolt/nut, and then back out the skinny tensioning bolt so that it's not under load. If you leave it fully loaded, it tends to break over time, especially if it's at bigger extensions.

Marvelous3 · 05-21-2022, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Radtap

Did you swap alternators? I kept breaking the tensioner bolt after I installed a Denso alt and then ordered belts for a 91+ 240 which are shorter than earlier belts 918mm iirc and original ones are 925mm, stopped breaking bolts after that

It has a 100amp bosch alternator.

dl242gt · 05-22-2022, 07:41 PM

On all the newer alternators ie bosch 80, Denso. They all require that upper bracket to move to the front of the alternator. The upper bolt is reversed and fits into a square hole from the back on the upper mounting. I think the easiest fix is to just use the updated upper bracket, spacer and longer mounting bolt. Removes the side loading on that upper bracket.

Brick15 · 05-23-2022, 09:32 AM

I did this, works very well

https://www.deloreandirectory.com/ma...tor-tensioner/

05-19-2022, 07:06 PM	#1
Marvelous3 Who engineered this? Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Atlanta	240 alternator bracket alternative So, crux of the issue is i am currently dealing with the bolt for the mounting bracket for the tension on the alternator is broken off flush with the block. This is the third time this has happened on my red wagon. I?m not really wanting to timesert it again only for the bolt to break off again in a year or two. Grade 8 bolt didnt seem to help. Doesn?t someone make a bracket that does away with the sliding tensioner? Or, can i just move the alternator over to the drivers side? I dont need the ac compressor so is there a way the alternator can take its spot? I can move the wiring nbd. Would really like to free up the passenger side of the motor for this holset I?ve been wanting to swap in. __________________ 2016 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Blackout Edition 1991 245+Turbo 16 Valve Microsquirt Need Lawncare service in Atlanta? PM me for a lawncare and maintenance quote

05-19-2022, 07:17 PM	#2
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	You can get metric hardware that is grade 10.9 or even 12.9. Moving the alternator to the low side on the left should just need some spacers to get the pulley alignment right. Should be able to adapt a sliding tensioner to the top mounting area used by the a/c compressor. I remember you past post about it and Timesert has a Big Sert that is for repairing failed inserts. Is your upper tensioner the version with the long cylinder for the bolt and the bushing? Volvo knew that setup was weak and can break the bolt. The upper tensioner was updated to a shorter cylinder that holds the bushing and they added a solid metal spacer and the whole thing uses a longer bolt. It get a lot less side loading than the original setup. __________________ Dave, 1982 242 turbo. 338k miles. MVP coilovers and 3" exhaust. Flowed 405 with a V15. Cossie turbine housing with upgraded compressor housing. 90+, IPD remote oil filter. Some other goodness, too. Been lots of fun over 25 years. Restored in 2k. Now ready for a 2nd restoration. 1993 245 Classic, 440k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.

05-20-2022, 01:45 PM	#9
sbabbs Board Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rushing Lane, Scappoose, OR	Penta alternator bracket is on drivers side. Just another option like using the better 740 style also. __________________ 1988 245 White slicktop M47 Wagon! 93 b230f. LH 2.4 STS flat flywheel. 1990 745 B230FT Getrag JohnV flywheel 240mm clutch 13c A-cam 3.54 G80 548K 1991 740SE B230FT NPR Strut braces IPD bar A cam 550cc EV14's. 3.73 G80 M90 to put in. 1995 940 White racing wagoon. 13c m90 to put in

05-21-2022, 10:56 AM	#12
Radtap Board Member Join Date: Dec 2020 Location: Sweat zone, Arizona	Did you swap alternators? I kept breaking the tensioner bolt after I installed a Denso alt and then ordered belts for a 91+ 240 which are shorter than earlier belts 918mm iirc and original ones are 925mm, stopped breaking bolts after that __________________ Feedback

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05-19-2022, 07:18 PM	#3
culberro Ronald Culberbone III Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Redmond, OR	The higher strength 10.9 bolts are just harder to drill out when they break. Here's my ghetto solution that's still going strong 5 years later: Take the adjuster arm, and weld some flat bar at a 90 to it (I used some scrap box-tubing I had). This flat bar pushes against the side of the block. It's ghetto, it works very well. Or just move the alt to the other side. __________________ Cult Person. Pissing in your Kool-Aid. Head work: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=349975 Temp Sender Adapters: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=348169

05-19-2022, 07:34 PM	#5
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	Here are the part numbers for the updated tensioner. NLA although I was able to buy NOS ones on ebay. 1346365 tensioner arm 1346027 spacer 947760 bolt You could make your own by cutting the long cylinder shorter and making your own solid spacer. Let me know I can check measurements on the stuff.

05-19-2022, 07:49 PM	#7
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	It's a 91 and newer update. Here are the parts for sale on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/15491519557...EAAOSw4VViPM4i Not my auction but it was at least a picture of what parts I mean.

05-21-2022, 09:52 AM	#11
Marvelous3 Who engineered this? Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Atlanta	What does the penta bracket do with the power steering pump and the ac compressor? Assuming it doesnt have provisions for either one because boat.

05-21-2022, 01:04 PM	#13
bobxyz Board Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Boulder CO	The old 55Amp B21 Alternator Bracket goes on the back side of the alternator mounting ear, and sits flush to the block, but doesn't include a tensioning bolt (you need to wedge it over by hand and then tighten it down). The depth of the newer Bosch 80A alternator mounting ear is shorter, and I don't know what a Denso has. You might be able to use a B21 bracket on the back side with spacers? Pics (click for full size) - Various brackets #3 is B21 Alt, #4 is B230 Alt 55A Alt with both B21 and B230 brackets on mounting ear 80A Alt next to above 55A alt - pulley and ear depths are slightly different Radtap - for the brackets with the skinny tensioning bolts, you tension the belt, lock it down with the big cross bolt/nut, and then back out the skinny tensioning bolt so that it's not under load. If you leave it fully loaded, it tends to break over time, especially if it's at bigger extensions.

05-22-2022, 07:41 PM	#15
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	On all the newer alternators ie bosch 80, Denso. They all require that upper bracket to move to the front of the alternator. The upper bolt is reversed and fits into a square hole from the back on the upper mounting. I think the easiest fix is to just use the updated upper bracket, spacer and longer mounting bolt. Removes the side loading on that upper bracket.

05-23-2022, 09:32 AM	#16
Brick15 Board Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: MN	I did this, works very well https://www.deloreandirectory.com/ma...tor-tensioner/