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Old 07-04-2021, 03:39 PM   #1
OldCarNewTricks
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Default Very Angry Engine

I got my 242 put back together. Yesterday, I drove it gently around the neighborhood. It sounded okay. Tried to die on me, but I believe it was low on fuel.

Today, I tried to take it for a drive after getting all the fluids topped off, as this project was an engine/trans removal, so there was oil, ATF, steering fluid and coolant. After that I tidied up the wiring with some split loom. Well, I took it through the neighborhood, and it was okay, but then on the country road that runs adjacent to my house, it just starts acting like it has no fuel. No acceleration, and with the touch of the pedal it wants to die. But that's not all, it starts coughing, knocking and backfiring. Sounds awful...

Some additional info:
I switched to the newer yellow top injectors
I replaced timing belt, with an A cam installed
The temp gauge isn't reading, hopefully it's not overheating
AW71 -> AW70
Cleaned throttle body
New catback exhaust
Messed with the idle screw to bring idle down (1500ish RPM)
I spilled steering fluid on the distributor, tried to wipe it up

So disappointing after all that work.
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Old 07-04-2021, 03:58 PM   #2
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Could this be the issue? -> http://imgur.com/gallery/kkrUDhX

I've found that my distributor cap has worn away the alignment tab... I think it spun on the distributor a little bit.... sounds better after I replaced it just now, but I'm going to let it cool down before I try driving it again.
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Old 07-04-2021, 03:58 PM   #3
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All are typical symptoms of a bad AMM.
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Old 07-04-2021, 04:01 PM   #4
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If you just did a bunch of stuff on it double check everything you did. 9/10 chance something is plugged in wrong and needs corrected.
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Old 07-04-2021, 04:22 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
All are typical symptoms of a bad AMM.
I tried unplugging it and driving it home. It was worse and actually died like that. Plugged it back in and it coughed all the way home.
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Old 07-04-2021, 04:24 PM   #6
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If you just did a bunch of stuff on it double check everything you did. 9/10 chance something is plugged in wrong and needs corrected.
I would not be surprised at all. My car is in the year range of the awful wire coatings. If this distributor cap is not the answer, maybe I'll go ahead and replace the harness.
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Old 07-04-2021, 04:26 PM   #7
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I tried unplugging it and driving it home. It was worse and actually died like that. Plugged it back in and it coughed all the way home.
Do you realize that unplugging it is not a test of anything? That is some BS that has circulated through the Volvo community for ages.
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Old 07-04-2021, 04:30 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
Do you realize that unplugging it is not a test of anything? That is some BS that has circulated through the Volvo community for ages.
I did not know that, no. After I try driving it this evening, I will report back. My AMM is a rebuilt unit from Blue Streak Electronics, and I think it has a lifetime warranty. Maybe it got bumped during all the movement of this project. Are they pretty fragile?
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Old 07-04-2021, 04:46 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by OldCarNewTricks View Post
I did not know that, no. After I try driving it this evening, I will report back. My AMM is a rebuilt unit from Blue Streak Electronics, and I think it has a lifetime warranty. Maybe it got bumped during all the movement of this project. Are they pretty fragile?
I'll pull my maf and dropkick if that's what it takes, I don't see it ****ting itself sitting in a pile of parts while you pull the motor

If it ran good before, and doesn't run well now you probably have something disconnected/swapped. I've done it a hundred times, no cure as far as I can tell but you can always just undo whatever little mistake you made. Check the harness below the intake and see if the CTS, knock sensor (if you have one) IAC, TPS and everything else is plugged into the right spot.
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Old 07-04-2021, 05:04 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by OldCarNewTricks View Post
I did not know that, no. After I try driving it this evening, I will report back. My AMM is a rebuilt unit from Blue Streak Electronics, and I think it has a lifetime warranty. Maybe it got bumped during all the movement of this project. Are they pretty fragile?
If it was a rebuilt unit rebuilt by Bosch then I wouldn't suspect the AMM as the problem. Done by anyone else,it goes to the top of the list as a suspect part. I have never had an AMM that was rebuilt by any other company that worked properly.

That' how parts fail. They work fine one minute, then, not at all the next. If you don't learn that basic lesson you are going to be chasing your tail for years to come. If your timing is correct and your ignition system is working properly, the number one suspect for all the symptoms your are experiencing is the AMM. That, or the harness leading from the AMM to the ECU. The harness is easy enough to test if you have a Bently Bible. There is absolutely no conclusive test for an AMM, other than whether the hot wire is still intact via an ohmmeter.

Last edited by 2manyturbos; 07-04-2021 at 05:10 PM..
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Old 07-04-2021, 05:23 PM   #11
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There is absolutely no conclusive test for an AMM, other than whether the hot wire is still intact via an ohmmeter.
Slap in a known good unit? Who owns a 240 these days without piles of spares and 3 parts cars?
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Old 07-04-2021, 06:32 PM   #12
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^^

That is the test. Replace the AMM with a known good part.
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Old 07-04-2021, 09:20 PM   #13
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I took it for another drive. First minute in, it almost felt like it was going to start acting horrid again. But after that, it acted much better. I drove it a few miles at highway speeds, and it did ok. Only issue is that it idles all the way up at 1500 RPMs in Neutral, and 1100 RPM in drive. Definitely something funky there. Is that also an AMM issue?
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Old 07-04-2021, 09:21 PM   #14
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Also, the replacement transmission shifts beautifully, no issues whatsoever. Thank you, 2manyturbos!!
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Old 07-05-2021, 02:30 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by OldCarNewTricks View Post
Also, the replacement transmission shifts beautifully, no issues whatsoever. Thank you, 2manyturbos!!
On LH 2.4 there is a simple resistance test iirc between pins #2 and #3(I assume pins are #1 is firewall side?). I don't recall the range of resistance but I can look it up for you if you cannot find the information for whatever system you're running.

I recently had a similar issue in 109f heat index, found 2 vacuum leaks, repaired one, and other is an injector with low miles/time Viton rings. Among other things I swapped in 2 back up AMM's with no change or improvement.

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Old 07-05-2021, 03:38 AM   #16
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high idle speed is usually caused by a vacume leak.
You wrote that you replaced the injectors. Those things have air seals around them that can leak, specially when they get old and hard.
With engine running take some brake cleaner or carb cleaner and spray around each injector. If the engine sound changes(rpm increase) on 1 particular injector you found the leak.
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Old 07-05-2021, 01:30 PM   #17
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I went ahead and tested for vacuum leaks. I could not find any. However, I inspected the intake tube between the AMM and the TB and found four friction holes. (http://imgur.com/gallery/vCki8EU) I did my best to glue them shut with plastic epoxy, but it made little difference. I don't think the epoxy took to the plastic well, upon flexing the tube a little, it just likes to split.

I'll have to go to the Pick N Pull to grab one.

I also tested my TPS as well as my o2 sensor. Both work just fine.

I'm starting to see why James M suggested having extra parts on hand for these cars. As stout as they can be, the parts are still from a 40 year old car, so I think I'm going to work on building a little "care kit" for my Volvo. Aside from an extra AMM and ECU, what are some good parts to keep on hand?

Also, I found this single green wire hanging out by the brake booster. I'm not 100% sure what it's from, although my guess is from the AC system that was once in this car. http://imgur.com/gallery/QrEFd9h
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Old 07-05-2021, 01:34 PM   #18
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Aside from an extra AMM and ECU, what are some good parts to keep on hand?
Known good FPR x 2.
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Old 07-05-2021, 01:49 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by OldCarNewTricks View Post
I went ahead and tested for vacuum leaks. I could not find any. However, I inspected the intake tube between the AMM and the TB and found four friction holes. (http://imgur.com/gallery/vCki8EU) I did my best to glue them shut with plastic epoxy, but it made little difference. I don't think the epoxy took to the plastic well, upon flexing the tube a little, it just likes to split.

I'll have to go to the Pick N Pull to grab one.

I also tested my TPS as well as my o2 sensor. Both work just fine.

I'm starting to see why James M suggested having extra parts on hand for these cars. As stout as they can be, the parts are still from a 40 year old car, so I think I'm going to work on building a little "care kit" for my Volvo. Aside from an extra AMM and ECU, what are some good parts to keep on hand?

Also, I found this single green wire hanging out by the brake booster. I'm not 100% sure what it's from, although my guess is from the AC system that was once in this car. http://imgur.com/gallery/QrEFd9h
That looks like the AC compressor wire. It has nothing to do with the problem you are having.
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Old 07-05-2021, 01:53 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
That looks like the AC compressor wire. It has nothing to do with the problem you are having.
I figured so, thank you. There is an 84 240 at the PnP, so I was going to try and grab the AMM, if it is still available. Between an undamaged intake tube and another AMM, I'm hoping this issue will be resolved.
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Old 07-05-2021, 01:54 PM   #21
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Known good FPR x 2.
I'll add those to the list, thanks!
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Old 07-05-2021, 04:48 PM   #22
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also
- a (know good or repaired) fuel pump relais
- the ignition amplifier module (aka 'powerstage')
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Old 07-05-2021, 05:20 PM   #23
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also
- a (know good or repaired) fuel pump relais
- the ignition amplifier module (aka 'powerstage')
The OP has an LH 2.0 system. There is no power stage.
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Old 07-05-2021, 11:44 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCarNewTricks View Post
I figured so, thank you. There is an 84 240 at the PnP, so I was going to try and grab the AMM, if it is still available. Between an undamaged intake tube and another AMM, I'm hoping this issue will be resolved.
After seeing the leaky intake hose, I'm going to guess that is your issue.

The resistance range for LH 2.0 is 3.5-4.0 ohms(IPD chart shows 1983-4 listed as LH 2.1).
You can do a resistance check to see if it falls into spec.
Here is an old TB thread where I came across some 2.0 notes.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=13912


Last edited by Otto Mattik; 07-06-2021 at 04:28 AM.. Reason: added IPD info
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Old 07-06-2021, 03:46 PM   #25
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When you have a broken intake hose. You fix it with duct tape. Just wrap the thing with multi layers of a decent duct tape and it's fixed.
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