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Old 09-03-2020, 09:55 PM   #1
makebrickgovroom
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Hello, It's me, back with more car mysteries. Got a new distributor in after the old hall sensor died. Now, car wont start -- I'm getting sync loss, but MS is throwing a slr of 0, which is confusing. I'll include the msq, of course, if anyone wants to take a look.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hgvm5ca2v2p67v5/what.mlg?dl=0

Thanks!
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Old 09-04-2020, 09:58 AM   #2
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Try changing from rising edge to falling edge or vice versa. I think I have an LH2.0 distributor that replaced a LH2.2 distributor and had to change that setting.
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Old 09-04-2020, 11:50 AM   #3
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What he said ^ also verify with fixed timing and a light and make sure that distributor orientation is correct in relation to spark plug wires.
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Old 09-04-2020, 05:00 PM   #4
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Try changing from rising edge to falling edge or vice versa. I think I have an LH2.0 distributor that replaced a LH2.2 distributor and had to change that setting.

Just did, still nothing. I wonder if my timing is horrible, but I installed this new distributor at the exact timing (or close enough) to the old one. The car wouldn't start before I installed the distributor (no cam signal due to dead hall-sensor), so I'm wondering if I ****ed something else up. I did just install a fuel rail, but I have confirmed that all the injectors work, so I don't know if that's of concern. The only thing's I've touched recently are the fuel rail and distributor. I think something's really wrong with my MS settings, but I dunno where to start. If I uploaded my current tune would that help?
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Old 09-04-2020, 05:01 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
What he said ^ also verify with fixed timing and a light and make sure that distributor orientation is correct in relation to spark plug wires.
I'll double check this in a little, thanks for the advice!
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Old 09-04-2020, 05:03 PM   #6
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/gc7lcct6ee...nelol.msq?dl=0

And here's the tune. I feel like I should start tipping people on this forum for the help lol
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Old 09-04-2020, 07:24 PM   #7
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Try generating and posting a "Tooth Logger" log when trying to start. That would help see if the disti pickup looks ok.

I flipped through your .msq briefly. You could try:
- turn on General Settings->Barometric Correction to Initial MAP. This will correct for Colorado's altitude (~80kPa)
- you could also set the lower Baro limit to 60 kPa if you ever plan on stopping at the top of Trail Ridge Road
- under Ignition Options -> Dwell type, I'd use standard dwell and ~3ms nominal, instead of fixed 50%
- The 139deg trigger angle seems pretty big. I don't know what a standard LH2.2 disti uses, but I'd guess ~70ish.
- What are you using for an ignition module? You may want Going High for spark?
- Your cranking battery voltage is low (~8 volts). I'd charge the battery overnight if you can.

Do you have a timing light to check that the ignition angle is roughly correct?
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Old 09-04-2020, 09:15 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by bobxyz View Post
Try generating and posting a "Tooth Logger" log when trying to start. That would help see if the disti pickup looks ok.

I flipped through your .msq briefly. You could try:
- turn on General Settings->Barometric Correction to Initial MAP. This will correct for Colorado's altitude (~80kPa)
- you could also set the lower Baro limit to 60 kPa if you ever plan on stopping at the top of Trail Ridge Road
- under Ignition Options -> Dwell type, I'd use standard dwell and ~3ms nominal, instead of fixed 50%
- The 139deg trigger angle seems pretty big. I don't know what a standard LH2.2 disti uses, but I'd guess ~70ish.
- What are you using for an ignition module? You may want Going High for spark?
- Your cranking battery voltage is low (~8 volts). I'd charge the battery overnight if you can.

Do you have a timing light to check that the ignition angle is roughly correct?

Great ideas all around -- I just threw the battery on a charger and we'll see where that gets me in the near future. I do have a timing light, and I'll end up checking that as soon as I can. I did run a tooth log, and it *seemed* ok, but I have no idea for sure. Once the battery is nice and charged I will upload a few more logs, assuming I can't get it started in the near future.

Thanks for your help as always!
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Old 09-04-2020, 10:06 PM   #9
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Here's a tooth and trigger log:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qtg98i4ydz...uhhh2.csv?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/epjur8xchgigol2/uhhh.csv?dl=0

Somethin doesn't seem right.....
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Old 09-06-2020, 02:36 AM   #10
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Old 09-06-2020, 06:54 PM   #11
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The Tooth Logger log shows that the MicroSquirt isn't getting a good signal from the disti. How have you wired the 3 pins on the disti? Have you added a pullup resistor between the center O (output signal) pin and the + pin?

If you remove the disti and spin it by hand with the key on, you should see the voltage between the center O pin and ground switch between ~0 volts and whatever voltage is on the other end of the pullup resistor (either +12v, or +5v if using MS Vref).
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Old 09-07-2020, 07:03 PM   #12
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The Tooth Logger log shows that the MicroSquirt isn't getting a good signal from the disti. How have you wired the 3 pins on the disti? Have you added a pullup resistor between the center O (output signal) pin and the + pin?

If you remove the disti and spin it by hand with the key on, you should see the voltage between the center O pin and ground switch between ~0 volts and whatever voltage is on the other end of the pullup resistor (either +12v, or +5v if using MS Vref).

My wiring was absolute ASS. I cannot emphasize how bad most of the connections were. I think I may have done it in a rush before I moved -- it ran well enough until something vibrated loose and caused the no start. The other hall sensor is still dead as a doornail, as per your suggestion of checking the signal through MS, but the wiring absolutely contributed to the recent problems. Good practice for the future -- check the simple stuff first. It started up just fine this weekend (ran like an absolute dog, but it's something), and with some recent tweaking of the timing I just made it backfire like I've never heard. Sounded like a gunshot, hope I didn't **** anything up tooooooo bad. Thanks for your help, once I calm down a bit I'll get back at it and see where tonight gets me.
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Old 09-09-2020, 12:53 AM   #13
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So the car starts (when it feels like it, which is fine, it's a start) but dies quickly. While tinkering I noticed in MS that my engine speed spikes up to 59,000 RPM. Not a typo, and obviously not the reality of the situation, but I'll be damned if I know what the hell could cause this. Bad config? Bad connections? Bad hall sensor? Noise/interference? I'll include another log, if anyone has the patience.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tolk6rjwvm...start.mlg?dl=0
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Old 09-09-2020, 08:23 PM   #14
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I'd guess that you have a loose connection between the MS and the disti that's picking up noise. Try tugging/wiggling the wires and see if it gets better/worse. There might also be a bad ground connection between MS and manifold, but that's unlikely since there are usually multiple ground wires.
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Old 09-12-2020, 12:38 AM   #15
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Quote:
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I'd guess that you have a loose connection between the MS and the disti that's picking up noise. Try tugging/wiggling the wires and see if it gets better/worse. There might also be a bad ground connection between MS and manifold, but that's unlikely since there are usually multiple ground wires.
Correct! The connector on the distributor broke off. If its not one thing, its another. I'm gonna try to epoxy is back on with some sort of high heat compound and locktite. None of the insulation has sheered off the wires (yet), so I'm hoping this fixes whatever the problem is. Wires/connections were solid (for the most part), but just to be safe I re-soldered and crimped everything on the hall wiring harness. Thanks for your invaluable help, do you have a paypal for a tip?
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