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Old 09-30-2020, 04:59 PM   #1
makebrickgovroom
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Default t3 bolts for a 90+ manifold

got my hands on a very nice 90+ manifold, need to source the studs and nuts for it. the bolts i have are too large for the holes on the turbo flange, on top of having to remove the exhaust side from the compressor. any thoughts? thanks!
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Old 09-30-2020, 05:22 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by makebrickgovroom View Post
got my hands on a very nice 90+ manifold, need to source the studs and nuts for it. the bolts i have are too large for the holes on the turbo flange, on top of having to remove the exhaust side from the compressor. any thoughts? thanks!
Mine manifold was re-drilled and then tapped for M10 x 1.5 for a T3 exhaust side. I took the exhaust side of the turbo off to make it easier to attach.

I have not had success with keeping the studs from loosening/stretching, but others have with nordlocks, copper locking nuts and hardened studs.
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Old 09-30-2020, 05:27 PM   #3
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If you are going to be running an aftermarket T3, Yoshifab will take care of machining and converting the manifold to M10 studs.
https://yoshifab.com/store/volvo-man...n-service.html
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Old 10-01-2020, 01:55 PM   #4
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The volvo stuff is the good stuff. High temp material that will last. I think they are probably inconel. Thats why the nuts for the exhaust manifold are $10+ each the last time I checked.

If you are going to change hardware out make sure the alloy being used will live at higher temperatures.
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Old 10-01-2020, 06:21 PM   #5
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You can use the shelf on the manifold to mate up to the Volvo T3 housing. The smaller studs will work. Another hardware choice is to use a stepped stud that is 8mm on one half and 10mm on the other half of the stud. Either way you should drill out the threads on the T3 exhaust housing.
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Old 10-02-2020, 08:37 PM   #6
makebrickgovroom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makebrickgovroom View Post
got my hands on a very nice 90+ manifold, need to source the studs and nuts for it. the bolts i have are too large for the holes on the turbo flange, on top of having to remove the exhaust side from the compressor. any thoughts? thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by rb92673 View Post
Mine manifold was re-drilled and then tapped for M10 x 1.5 for a T3 exhaust side. I took the exhaust side of the turbo off to make it easier to attach.

I have not had success with keeping the studs from loosening/stretching, but others have with nordlocks, copper locking nuts and hardened studs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
If you are going to be running an aftermarket T3, Yoshifab will take care of machining and converting the manifold to M10 studs.
https://yoshifab.com/store/volvo-man...n-service.html
Good info gents -- I believe this service has already been completed by the previous owner of this manifold. the bolt thread and pitch on the manifold is M10 x 1.5 (did some dirty quick measurements on the bolts i was provided). the flange on the turbo is a different story, however, as the mounting hardware simply does not fit. I'll have to drill and tap, perhaps. Thanks for the help!

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Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
The volvo stuff is the good stuff. High temp material that will last. I think they are probably inconel. Thats why the nuts for the exhaust manifold are $10+ each the last time I checked.

If you are going to change hardware out make sure the alloy being used will live at higher temperatures.
I would love to use the OEM volvo stuff -- I've had unsavory experiences with cheap **** before. don't need another bolt sheering off where it doesn't need to.

https://www.full-race.com/store/prec...52722167968750

These look right?? Thanks for your help!


Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
You can use the shelf on the manifold to mate up to the Volvo T3 housing. The smaller studs will work. Another hardware choice is to use a stepped stud that is 8mm on one half and 10mm on the other half of the stud. Either way you should drill out the threads on the T3 exhaust housing.
The shelf's been milled and the outlet bored, i believe by the previous owner as well. Is it advisable to use such a steep shelf? I'm worried about the longevity of the bolts just with the difference in material thickness, but i dunno if that's founded. Would it be worth it just to drill out the flange holes to 10mm? would you recommend a tap or no?

Thanks a ton!!
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Old 10-02-2020, 09:57 PM   #7
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I grabbed these:

https://www.enjukuracing.com/product...RoCEYEQAvD_BwE

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/2156...e-volvo-419401


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Old 10-06-2020, 01:35 AM   #8
makebrickgovroom
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Good stuff -- didn't even think I'd need a gasket. Did you drill out the thread on the flange (on the turbo, specifically), or am I just stupid? Still stuck on that aspect of this little tangential project. Thanks for your help!
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Old 10-06-2020, 06:08 PM   #9
LC4CARL
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I had to use a shorty wrench to get to some of the nuts.


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Old 10-07-2020, 04:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makebrickgovroom View Post
Good stuff -- didn't even think I'd need a gasket. Did you drill out the thread on the flange (on the turbo, specifically), or am I just stupid? Still stuck on that aspect of this little tangential project. Thanks for your help!
Are the holes on the turbo hot side smaller than the 10mm studs? If so, then yes you need to match them to the studs. Mine was drilled for 10mm.
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