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Old 11-23-2021, 03:54 AM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Question LH 2.0/2.2 distributors

I have a carbed B230 that needs spark, and I have a Chrysler ignition box and an LH 2.2 distributor laying around. Both use a three-pin hall effect sensor - any chance they will work together with a little soldering? It might be a long shot but I gotta know if it's a definite no.
(Yes, I have a bag of pin sleeves for the Christler ten pin connector).
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Old 11-23-2021, 02:04 PM   #2
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.

Not sure what you would need to do about the idle switch. But it looks like it could work on there.
1982 242 turbo. 338k miles. MVP coilovers and 3" exhaust. Flowed 405 with a V15. Cossie turbine housing with upgraded compressor housing. 90+, IPD remote oil filter. Some other goodness, too. Been lots of fun over 25 years. Restored in 2k. Now ready for a 2nd restoration.

1993 245 Classic, 440k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.
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Old 11-24-2021, 02:56 AM   #3
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Update: looked through the schematics and spliced it together. Spun distributor with a drill, it has good spark.

The idle switch grounds an orange wire from the spark box, at idle and at WOT. At part throttle the wire is open circuit. Box tells the difference between idle/WOT by vacuum (orange wire grounded at both).
I won't be running a vacuum line (side draft webers so no vac port, AND a vacuum retard box).
Guess it will idle a little high, especially with a lot of initial advance, and strictly follow the "mechanical advance" base curve.
What I don't know is whether the box does anything different at WOT, or if it just goes by vacuum and RPM (maybe the WOT grounding of the orange wire is only needed by the LH ECU).

Last edited by smncutler; 11-24-2021 at 05:35 AM..
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