My '91 744 B204GT project

[tomasss]

Well, my friend works in a printing shop, so she managed everything thanks for the template!
How did I find out? I've recently bought a new calibrated Proxxon small torque wrench, and there was bit of overlap of the torque ranges between that one and the big wrench. So just out of curiosity I was wondering "how precise this old no-name wrench actually is?"

[Sjeng]

Good you caught it now.
Engine looks nice.

What did you do with the ring gaps?

[MadDog_945]

Yeah! I'm very curios about the ringgap

[tomasss]

For the ring gaps...well I just followed the technical list from Traum pistons. 0.58mm for the 1st/2nd compression ring and 0.38mm for the oil rings.

Other than that...engine is coming together!

Volvo sealant applied with the PU roller, hopefully it will be approved this time


Hydro lifters in


Camshafts in


Cam cover installed & Bosch coil for the wasted spark mounted & leads connected


And timing belt installed

[Sjeng]

Does that coil bracket position give you enough room in relation to the firewall?
I looked at this as an option in my 740 but didn't seem to work.

[tomasss]

Yes...it is tight fit but it works, there is about 5mm gap. It should be fine with the PU engine mounts.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...0&postcount=44

[tomasss]

Day off today...so garage time from the early morning

Wastegate preload adjusted


Exhaust manifold + turbo mounted & oil lines connected


Prepping the intake side (phenolic spacer)


Intake mounted


Off the engine stand, loaded on the engine crane; flywheel mounted


Clutch...


...and pressure plate


Mated with M90


and all together going back in


Voila...it's end of the day and the engine is back where it is supposed to be

[dopski]

Whohaa great succes. Near completion. Do u wait for a fisrt start for 2021 ;)?

[tomasss]

Originally Posted by dopski

Whohaa great succes. Near completion. Do u wait for a fisrt start for 2021 ;)?

Not sure! I've returned from travelling trip few days ago, since then I am working on it again...so I still have full tomorrow. Lets see!

[tomasss]

Originally Posted by MadDog_945

nice, curios if it works better..

Well, it doesn't fit...and neither would have fitted the KL Racing one. The issue is that the threaded hose coupler from the clutch master cylinder is specific for b234/b204 engines, so the hose has to have a really long thread at that end, as it goes first through a bracket, then nut, then the coupler...



That is not the case for neither of the aftermarket hoses. So I am thinking about just replacing the hose with new OEM one. It was already working even with the old OEM hose, so that seems as the easiest solution. I am also in contact with a company that makes the custom hoses...

[reiernumans]

If you call your local Goodridge dealer I'm positive they'll be able to make you something. Or you could bring your old stuff to a local hydraulics supplier and have them make something for you.

[tomasss]

Originally Posted by reiernumans

If you call your local Goodridge dealer I'm positive they'll be able to make you something. Or you could bring your old stuff to a local hydraulics supplier and have them make something for you.

Well, I've contacted three (one in UK and two in DE) and only one was able to supply the long threaded end. It's the link below, fitting types 551 and 553. The hose is ordered so I'll give a feedback afterwards

https://www.probrake.de/Custom-steel...specifications

[tomasss]

Other than that, I've replaced the automatic timing belt tensioner (just to be sure - it was probably still the original one), filled the fluids and was about to try starting. Unfortunately it seemed I have a dead starter, not even clicking. So I have started investigating and during that process I damaged the starter solenoid while torqueing down the positive cable nut
New starter solenoid is on the way, so hopefully in few days. But after this I still measured the exciter wire of the solenoid and during starting there is only 7V, that looks to me like a possible root cause...

[tomasss]

Starter motor extracted, solenoid separated...to my surprise it seems the carnage was not caused primarily by torqueing down the cable nut, but it was already cracked before and this was just the last drop. While searching for used starters yesterday on ebay, I found several ones with the same damage. Well brand new solenoid is on the way so I think I made the right decision

[tomasss]

Heatshield applied to protect the undercoating...I am wondering if it will last

[ZVOLV]

You are motivating me to make progress on my B234FT build.

[tomasss]

Originally Posted by ZVOLV

You are motivating me to make progress on my B234FT build.

I am getting lots of motivation in other threads so I'm glad the circle is enclosed then!

[tomasss]

So I was having the same issue as described >here< (not enough current causing voltage drop and the solenoid not closing completely).

Fixed by adding the relay solution (black one starter relay, grey one is just the coil for the wasted spark tacho)

[ZVOLV]

I do not agree with your method of adding a relay to the starter circuit. That makes more points of failure. You have excessive resistance somewhere in the circuit. I am going to guess at terminal crimps, ignition switch, or connectors. Always measure power circuits with a test lamp. 7V on a meter won't illuminate a lamp; you found a problem. However, you could have 12v on a meter, but not an illuminated test lamp. (one strand of wire can show 12v on a meter, but won't operate a component)-- To find poor connections, perform a loaded voltage drop test with your meter.


That pink anaerobic liquid gasket is TOUGH to lay down properly. I used a foam paint roller. Your layer of pink goop LOOKS thin; you MAY SEE A LEAK. I put TOO MUCH pink goop on my oil pump/front crank seal plate and fouled the oil pump relief valve open and lost oil pressure.