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How to add an intercooler to an 82 b21ft

ogamer777

ogamer777

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Joined
May 22, 2016
Location
New North Winchestersonville (PNW 425 gang)
I recently purchased a replacement volvo after bending the rear axle on my 242. I ended up purchasing an 82 244 turbo. Nice car nearly fully loaded (even came with the super rare rear sun shade from the factory! among other things) I am looking to locate and install a full intercooler system.

I would prefer a factory volvo 240 intercooler setup to maintain reliability and keep cost down without sacrificing reliability.

I did a quick search and saw that there was a couple of different thoughts about what setup to use as well as BOV myths.

I do want to install a blow off valve eventually but its not important at the moment. And really neither is the intercooler but i would like to plan ahead and at least locate the parts needed to do the install completely.

So i would like to know, what parts are needed to install a factory 240 intercooler system, where i might find those parts, and if any parts would be different due to my eventual plan to install a BOV as close as i can to the throttle body

Thanks
Ethan
 
im actually installing a do88 big intercooler kit for not AC'd 740 Turbo. the things you need all from a 740 (doesnt has to be a turbo one) intake manifold, coolant tank and the brackets for the coolers.

you can do it also with the b21 intake
 
You used to be able to get the hoses up until a few years ago.
I have everything BUT the TIC IC/Radiator brackets.
Is yours auto or stick?

Though I put a set of the D088 hoses on a car several years ago and they are doing fine. I had a nice heavy duty truck fuel fill hose for the accordion hose that was a lot sturdier than the OE. Went away with my 245T. The OE accordion doesn't last all that well.

Lots of parts, all NLA by now really.

BOV? Recirculating at least? Why waste all that air? I modified the bracket and used the 740 Pierburg CBV elegantly as I could. They are well made and seem to last well up to 14-15+psi/moderate levels. You have to slot the bracket for the original 240T CI fuel line bracket. Boost response isn't quite as good at part throttle with a CBV as none or somewhat more pre-loaded BOV that only vents with a shock wave, but not always under vacuum like the stock CBV even turned a little tighter, but turbo life on a stick shift car if driven somewhat harder at slightly higher boost and/or more airflow better. I installed the pierburg CBV basically the same way as it is on a 700, but it involved welding up a custom cold-side pipe. I ran a hard pipe with a bubble flex coupling and NPR intercooler with custom end tanks. Fit much like original (which does fit nicely), but I'm not sure I'd want to run as little soft hose as I did on the OE plastic tank IC that might potentially crack with normal motor movement...

The all-metal D088 IC is pretty well made and drops in/packages like factory (which is a great layout) IIRC.

I didn't know you had a 240T? Or is this a +T DL car?
 
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This ought to be good for a larf.

http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/8360900

Intercooler-Dan.jpg
 
Wow. Those were the good old days, can't remember how many I installed. Dealer I worked for remodeled a building to increase volume. He asked all the techs what we wanted. It was unanimous-Dyno- we got one and then the fun began.
 
Kjets On a Plane said:
You used to be able to get the hoses up until a few years ago.
I have everything BUT the TIC IC/Radiator brackets.
Is yours auto or stick?

Though I put a set of the D088 hoses on a car several years ago and they are doing fine. I had a nice heavy duty truck fuel fill hose for the accordion hose that was a lot sturdier than the OE. Went away with my 245T. The OE accordion doesn't last all that well.

Lots of parts, all NLA by now really.

BOV? Recirculating at least? Why waste all that air? I modified the bracket and used the 740 Pierburg CBV elegantly as I could. They are well made and seem to last well up to 14-15+psi/moderate levels. You have to slot the bracket for the original 240T CI fuel line bracket. Boost response isn't quite as good at part throttle with a CBV as none or somewhat more pre-loaded BOV that only vents with a shock wave, but not always under vacuum like the stock CBV even turned a little tighter, but turbo life on a stick shift car if driven somewhat harder at slightly higher boost and/or more airflow better. I installed the pierburg CBV basically the same way as it is on a 700, but it involved welding up a custom cold-side pipe. I ran a hard pipe with a bubble flex coupling and NPR intercooler with custom end tanks. Fit much like original (which does fit nicely), but I'm not sure I'd want to run as little soft hose as I did on the OE plastic tank IC that might potentially crack with normal motor movement...

The all-metal D088 IC is pretty well made and drops in/packages like factory (which is a great layout) IIRC.

I didn't know you had a 240T? Or is this a +T DL car?
Click to expand...

It's a stick. And I picked this one up 2 days after I bent the axle on my 242.

As for the BOV, I had in mind a bov like I've got on my mr2, it's a blitz blow off valve and just vents Everytime I shift.

But if no bov is better than that then forget about it.
 
ogamer777 said:
I ended up on top of some black ice after a snowfall and spun sideways into a curb and landed right on the rear driver's wheel. So the car looks like this now

??v??
|-----|


\-----|
Click to expand...

I have a rear axle out of my '92 245DL. It's from an automatic transmission car (not sure what the ratio is). Kind of just want it gone, so I'll let it go cheap.
 
Recirculating CBV/BOV is good if it is going to keep K-jet or LH.

If you don't run much boost, none is probably "fine." but they did add it to the later 700Ts. Kind of easier to keep it all close to the turbo for plumbing/recirculation logistics...

Stick makes inter cooling slightly fewer parts...no trans cooler lines and fitting and valve body parts to install.

Late automatic axle should be a 3.73 same as a 240T stick.

Sure is a lot easier to change the trailing arm bushings with the axle out of the car on the bright side :lol:
Inspect the pan hard bar and its mounting after those crub episodes...
Changing an axle goes by pretty quick if it either has an updated over-axle exhaust, or an under axle that can be dropped easily/willingly...
 
As much as I want to keep the 242 drivable, it's not a feasible option due to electrical gremlins, entire suspension needs replaced (before the crash) amongst other things. I am snagging parts off to out on my 244 then I'm going to strip the 242 and scrap the body. Unless someone wants to buy it as is.

Back to the 244T....I do plan on keeping it k jet sorry as long as I can. I want the car mostly stock as far as mechanical goes. For reliability sake.
 
Nothing wrong with CI FI in its little window, the car itself is just 30something+ years old.
It's far less time to just put things in the places/functions they are designed for than reinvent all that much.
It's enough time to just vaguely 'stage 0' a 30+ year old car.

If "electrical gremlins" or "worn suspension" is too much to keep on the road on a DL car, Turbo might not be any easier :lol: :run:
 
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