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"Bruce" a 1993 244 Rally Project

Alright, a heatgun worked absolute wonders today. I still have some stuff to remove below the dash and on the floor which should be easy with the heatgun. But the black stuff on the roof is brutal. That sticky glue is not gonna do well with a heatgun.
 
If you really want to get **** off in a hurry, use MEK. It will remove everything. Wipe it on, then wipe it right off again unless you want bare metal showing. It removes goo like nothing else.

Toxic stink, really bad for your skin, highly flammable, etc, so take precautions. But pour a puddle, let it sit, and everything except metal is coming off.
 
Rallying is awesome, you will love it. Some advice for you from a guy who does ARA with what is likely the smallest budget team in the Northeast, don't sweat all the upgrades. Get your safety stuff and tires sorted out, run a stock motor, stock everything mechanical. You will save time, money, & it will get you on the stages quicker which is the most important part. We ran our first 5 events on a largely untouched 1985 8-valve (mk2 Golf) and some bilstein HDs that were probably older than me and we finished every event. The seat time will be more valuable than anything else (this sport is fun but can be very trying!) Upgrade stuff as it breaks! (it will)

I'm also building a 244 into a stage car currently so i'm stoked to see how you go about it as well!
 
Bampalo said:
Rallying is awesome, you will love it. Some advice for you from a guy who does ARA with what is likely the smallest budget team in the Northeast, don't sweat all the upgrades. Get your safety stuff and tires sorted out, run a stock motor, stock everything mechanical. You will save time, money, & it will get you on the stages quicker which is the most important part. We ran our first 5 events on a largely untouched 1985 8-valve (mk2 Golf) and some bilstein HDs that were probably older than me and we finished every event. The seat time will be more valuable than anything else (this sport is fun but can be very trying!) Upgrade stuff as it breaks! (it will)

I'm also building a 244 into a stage car currently so i'm stoked to see how you go about it as well!
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Good info in here! There are certain mechanical upgrades that are basically free, but getting on stage quickly is one of the best things you can do! Seat time, seat time, seat time! It took probably 20 rallies for the stock b230 to be a limiting factor in speed, in our experience.

Bampalo, Barn motor mk2 Golf by chance?
 
culberro said:
Bampalo, Barn motor mk2 Golf by chance?
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Not sure what you mean by barn motor? This is the old gal.

vAGlIyp.png
 
Bampalo said:
Not sure what you mean by barn motor? This is the old gal.
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Hi there! I was thinking of Adam VanDamme, but they have a mk1 (and run a low budget/simple car as well). They swapped in an engine at a rally that they pulled from someones barn. It ran multiple events before finally giving up the ghost.

Here's the car that I usually co-drive, as well as doing a lot of the building of the car.
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/4172/33823763634_f8f475f41f.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Derek Knight and Robert Culbertson">
 
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Ok well since the last post I've decided to just source a M47 instead of pursuing the T5 swap. I figure if I'm doing a "mild" NA build I don't need it. I sourced a M47, driveline, and shifter/pedal assembly, (also cross members came with) for $200 ...but I still need a clutch and flywheel which I will really search for soon. I had 2 deals already fall through locally...

In other news I bought a '99 Chevy Express 3500 with the 5.7L. I realized this was a purchase I needed a lot sooner than I anticipated. It's a high mileage work van. But I'm hoping that with some TLC it will be good to go. It has trouble starting sometimes, pulls to the right REALLY bad ect. The motor sounds good and the transmission was rebuilt I'm told. It shifts very smoothly. It's got some funky wiring to deal with...they ran fans and saws in the back of it for wood work... anyways, it will be my Rally rig. It's also white and matches Bruce, cool.

I agree with the seat time sentiment. I'm the type of person that likes to be prepared (or maybe I just hate being unprepared?). I will be practicing a lot before I ever sign up for a stage rally. I am thinking of some things as requirements for the build. Other things will be upgrades down the road, but not required. I rather not have some things break on stage 2 if I can avoid it - because gas to get there and back + event fees adds up quick and it would suck to throw away...

Overall the build might take quite awhile compared to say, a normal person. I'm obviously Volvo poor like most people on TB hahah. But that combined with some health issues - I get worn out/fatigued easy. And when summer comes basically I go in hibernation/survival mode. nb4 the heatstroke guy can't into Rally... yeah at best all BC, WA & OR events... at worse WA and some BC events. It's not the end of the world. I'll do what I can. "something is better than nothing" is kind of my life philosophy I've developed post stroke.

I'll be hunting down a Dana 1030 along with the clutch & flywheel I'm missing and go from there.
 
Lighter! I have only put 70 miles on my t5 swap 740 because I'm still adjusting driveline angles, but it's quite noticeably lighter than the stock flywheel in my 240. It's also easier to install, lol
 
Bampalo said:
Why's that? (Genuinely interested to know pros/cons)
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It's a simple and cheap ish solution to get a 60-2 trigger pattern on a light-ish flywheel.
The downside is that is used the earlier, and smaller clutch disk and pressure plate. They are fine for almost any NA setup, and most mild turbo setups. Once you start getting into real torque and abuse, the clutch options start to get pretty narrow.

I've used them in rally in a NA setup with a high output 16v using a stock pressure plate and a ceramic/sprung disk. No issues. The turbo engine was too much for that setup, so a ~$350 clutch setup was used, and it's been fine.

TTV would be the next step for a flywheel. They're about $380-400 shipped from the UK for a real lightweight billet steel flywheel.
 
culberro said:
It's a simple and cheap ish solution to get a 60-2 trigger pattern on a light-ish flywheel.
The downside is that is used the earlier, and smaller clutch disk and pressure plate. They are fine for almost any NA setup, and most mild turbo setups. Once you start getting into real torque and abuse, the clutch options start to get pretty narrow.

I've used them in rally in a NA setup with a high output 16v using a stock pressure plate and a ceramic/sprung disk. No issues. The turbo engine was too much for that setup, so a ~$350 clutch setup was used, and it's been fine.

TTV would be the next step for a flywheel. They're about $380-400 shipped from the UK for a real lightweight billet steel flywheel.
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He speaks with real knowledge, I can just tell you what my butt dyno says...it says it's faster. I went with a yoshifab stage 2 clutch setup and it's working great on my NA, we see how it does when I finally get around to +t.
 
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