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Old 11-14-2021, 06:20 PM   #1
Radtap
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Default M46 leaking near OD unit

Recently did the fluid on my transmission and it seems to be leaking out of somewhere on the OD unit aswell as the solenoid possibly. Replaced the strainer gasket and its not leaking from the gasket. Just seemingly started to leak over last week. Honestly haven't had the opportunity to shift into OD yet so honestly don't know if it works. Doing clutch later this month so I'll be able to take a better look at it once its out of the car
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Old 11-15-2021, 06:07 PM   #2
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Get some of the seals and gaskets while doing the clutch job and reseal the overdrive. I think spock has an overdrive thread about sealing it up.
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Old 11-15-2021, 06:26 PM   #3
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I’m doing shifter bushings while I have it out of the car, any other jobs I should probably take care of while I’m in there?
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Old 11-15-2021, 09:11 PM   #4
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That is the time to make sure the electrical switches/connections are all good and wiring harness is in good shape.
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Old 11-16-2021, 11:33 PM   #5
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I had this issue as well. At first, I thought it was the OD sump gasket and replaced that several times. After losing nearly all of my transmission fluid several times, I discovered, via a parts diagram, that I was missing the sealing washer for the solenoid.

Does your solenoid have a sealing washer? If not, get one.
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Old 11-16-2021, 11:34 PM   #6
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Iím doing shifter bushings while I have it out of the car, any other jobs I should probably take care of while Iím in there?
Check the reverse pull rod. Might want to just replace it to avoid future annoyance.
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Old 11-17-2021, 10:21 PM   #7
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Looks like my OD does not work, took it to the top of 4th, pushed the clutch in, flipped the switch and I’m still in 4th. Bad solenoid? Never really done much to transmissions other than clutches and fluids so I don’t really understand how it all works together here
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Old 11-18-2021, 10:21 PM   #8
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Start your troubleshooting journey with listening for the solenoid "thunk."

Key on position, but engine off (so you can hear the thunk).

Shift into 4th, lean your head out around the (open) door sill while energizing/deenergizing the OD switch. Should be able to hear the solenoid thunk in and out.
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Old 01-17-2022, 12:20 AM   #9
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Getting ready to pull the transmission this Thursday, how much does one of these weigh? Wondering if I can just bench press it back up into place or if I’ve gotta buy a jack. Got an iPD od seal kit in the mail. Should I disconnect the OD and then the trans and take it out in two pieces or is putting the OD back on gonna be a pain under the car
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Old 01-17-2022, 01:03 AM   #10
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Getting ready to pull the transmission this Thursday, how much does one of these weigh? Wondering if I can just bench press it back up into place or if Iíve gotta buy a jack. Got an iPD od seal kit in the mail. Should I disconnect the OD and then the trans and take it out in two pieces or is putting the OD back on gonna be a pain under the car
Its pretty hefty. When I swap my AW70 to the M46, I'm going to use a HF trans jack. Worst part is trying to get everything lined up, so wrestling it all together while holding up the weight just sounds like an awful time to be had.
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Old 01-17-2022, 02:11 AM   #11
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I’m doing the job all by myself so I might get a jack. If I had a little more time I might just pull the whole engine+trans but that would involve touching a degrading wiring harness I’m not ready to replace yet
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Old 01-17-2022, 05:12 AM   #12
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Its an easier job to remove the transmission out by yourself than it is to put it in. It weights in the neighborhood of 100 lbs so having a jack around will be a big help in the job. If you can make a basic cradle out of some boards or other material, that should be considered. Also make sure your car is jacked up high enough for the bell housing to clear the bottom of the car. Another recommendation is to clean off the transmission as much as possible before removing. It doesn't have to be pristine, just where you can have some grip on it and not slippery with grease or oil. The transmission can be "bench pressed up, but also remember there really isn't really any room to get underneath the transmission so you will be lifting it with your arms extended which is much harder. If you have an degraded engine harness, expect the wiring to the OD solenoid and 4th gear switch to need replacing as well. In fact, I would first check the wiring to the solenoid to make sure that is intact as dl242gt mentioned in his post. If you are not hearing that click when hitting the OD button. Also make sure the wiring to the OD switch in the shifter is hooked up.






When helping a friend with a clutch disc replacement in his 1973 1800ES (M-41), the car was put up on 4 jackstands to maximize the room under the car. Stacked up some wooden blocks to rest the transmission/bellhousing on as it was disconnected from the engine and the back of it was held up by a hydraulic jack. After pulling it out from under the car (put it on a piece of cardboard to slide it out easier,) it was placed in to a large plastic bin to clean it up and contain the the solvents/fluids. During installation, we used two jacks to raise the transmission up and in to the transmission tunnel. The M-41 is a bit lighter and smaller than the M-46 and have two people there made it so much easier.
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Old 01-17-2022, 06:52 AM   #13
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Unless the clutch or rear main/crank oil seal (largest circumference/linear surface speed of the engine seals, so it's prone to wear the seal or crankshaft itself) explicitly needs doing, I deal with all Brit-ish (emphasis on the 'ish' as-in; ****) OD BS as a separate thing/remove the OD separately (way less labor time) & leave the trans in place.

That said, on J-type & earlier ODs, it can be a PITA to get the splines to stop binding on the trans main shaft & the little gun drilled pilot 'tit' for the over-running clutch on the main shaft IS fragile/should be inspected.
There are ways of dealing with that, but that's for another poast to evaluate etc.
Check the fluid level & electrical w/ the OD first, whatever you do.

Assuming the solenoid's intact/hasn't blown apart (rare, but it happens), has it's copper sealing washer properly annealed & installed, most J-type OD M46s pee copious/most all their oil out of the OD unit 'round' gasket, OD sump, & speedometer cable port, in ascending order of leakiness, usually.

The M46 center section that houses gears 1-4 doesn't *really* leak much anywhere else real fast...little ooze outta the shift selector rod (but it's up top & the leak is usually a pretty slow ooze even in the dry/HOT AZ desert where oil leaks tend to be a LOT faster in the heat even if the guide bushings/rod's got some wear on it & seal's old/dried out some) , maybe a little ooze outta outta the paper gaskets at the bellhousing or input seal (tho rarely in my experience) or OD adapter housing (those leak worse on the aluminum boxes than the iron center-section boxes, usually).

Last edited by Kjets On a Plane; 01-17-2022 at 09:07 AM..
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Old 01-17-2022, 10:08 AM   #14
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Getting ready to pull the transmission this Thursday, how much does one of these weigh? Wondering if I can just bench press it back up into place or if Iíve gotta buy a jack.
i'd guess 120ish lbs. I couldn't do it myself, I needed a buddy to help to get it back installed. I didn't have a trans jack, but used a normal floor jack with the car on jackstands the highest they went.
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Old 01-17-2022, 10:39 AM   #15
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The leak honestly wouldn’t be an issue if manual transmissions had an easy access fill port instead of having to crawl under the car otherwise I’d just be topping it off, the leak is just heavy enough to rust proof the underside of the car but I kinda need that stuff in the transmission . Anyway I checked the wiring that I could actually see and it’s connected to the OD, wires seem somewhat intact but I know for a fact there’s a corroded switch or connection somewhere causing issues, I’ll find it when I pull the trans and wiring out. I’ve been chasing electrical issues throughout the car and so far it’s been a corroded connector almost every single time which is better than **** wiring
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Old 01-21-2022, 01:11 PM   #16
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Never mind just gonna suffer until I can access my friends car lift. Or until I finish the other motor build, simply can’t get enough torque on starter or bell housing bolts while under the car, breaking extensions left and right

Last edited by Radtap; 01-21-2022 at 01:34 PM..
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Old 01-21-2022, 02:06 PM   #17
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Never mind just gonna suffer until I can access my friends car lift. Or until I finish the other motor build, simply canít get enough torque on starter or bell housing bolts while under the car, breaking extensions left and right
Is that with an impact?
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Old 01-21-2022, 02:26 PM   #18
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Yes, I broke the lower one loose but ended up breaking extensions trying to get the upper starter bolt. I’m not just not ready to turn a clutch and OD reseal job into a week long process. I didn’t mess with the bell housing bolts but seeing how much I’m struggling with the starter the rest does not look good
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Old 01-21-2022, 02:55 PM   #19
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Yes, I broke the lower one loose but ended up breaking extensions trying to get the upper starter bolt. Iím not just not ready to turn a clutch and OD reseal job into a week long process. I didnít mess with the bell housing bolts but seeing how much Iím struggling with the starter the rest does not look good
That's fair. Sounds like some anti-seize is in order during reassembly
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Old 01-21-2022, 03:05 PM   #20
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Yeah no ****, if I had a second person it might be a little easier but trying to do this all essentially one handed on my back about 2 ft away from the actual bolt is too much for me. I’ve got a buddy with a lift hoping that makes it easier or like I said just wait until I swap motors to worry about the trans. Screw it I guess I’ll just take frontage road and backroads and avoid freeways. Pushing on a wrench with my feet barely loosened the bolt or nut
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