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Small Block Chevy in a 240

1957 Rochester Ramjet fuel injection:
0306VET_RochesterTWO01_z.jpg


If you think K-Jets isn't quirky enough.
 
OldCarNewTricks said:
How about something like this: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/edmonds-1978-volvo-244-dl/7280958108.html
Click to expand...

I've been looking around the last couple days and although that one in Edmonds is tempting it is a very far drive for a car with a "broken fuel pump" I'd hate to get out there to find that there are many other issues.
However in my small town I have found a black 264 that I learned has been sitting for years. The mechanic I go to for work on my 95 tacoma is familiar with 200 series volvos (he has a 242). he says he did work on that 264 about 7 years ago and saw it running for about a year till it was parked for the next 6. Im considering making the owner an offer if I can get a good look at the thing.
There is also a guy in town named Pete who I just met yesterday at a yardsale. My new friend Pete has a 1989 245 automatic in excellent condition with zero dents or dings with 281k miles on the original redblock B230F. Pete mentioned he was looking for a new car for his wife and he was just looking to get some more miles out of it in the meantime. (He also mentioned I was welcome to help him with repairs he will be working on this spring which is very cool).
Here's where I am at with these two cars:
Depending on the frame/body/interior quality of the 264 that could be a perfect candidate for a v8 swap as it already has the stronger front end that would have an easier time accommodating a larger engine.
As far as Pete's 89 245 I would consider buying that at a fair price but I dont quite know what that would be. I can see that the redblock is more desirable and he has taken excellent care of it so would it be profitable to sell the original engine/trans out of there and put that money towards the v8 swap? Is it possible to make money selling that redblock or is it just not worth that kind of effort at 280k miles?
 
2manyturbos said:
The US market 740/940 was equipped with an Eaton G80 locker. The turbo cars got the G80 starting in 1991. The NA cars were fitted with G80s from 1993-1995. When you actually start working on a 240 these guys can talk you through the G80 install if you decide to go that route. They are cheap if you go pull one at a wrecking yard. About $100 or less. They will handle all your 283/Glide will put out.
Click to expand...

I've been meaning to dig into this, but never spent the time. Does that mean a 1990 Turbo 740 would NOT have the locking rear diff?
 
If you are going to do this conversion find the cleanest car that you can, you don't want to deal with rust and the swap. Any year will work, I like the early models w/ 4 head lights. I could go on with the details of the swap, but it would take up the whole page.
 
Feel free to drop details on the swap I'd love to hear all of it. My Tacoma is in the shop right now getting a new head gasket (ouch) and once that is done I'll have more time to interact on the thread.
 
You will need to alter the cross member at the rear, notch it and reinforce it [to clear the oil pan] so you can get the Chevy in lo and as far back as you can. I used an old style "window dist" to get firewall clearance. Depending on the year Volvo the steering shaft will be an issue with the left side exhaust, early cars had a smaller shaft. On the right side getting the exhaust around the starter will be an issue with block huger headers. Custom exhaust system,stock manifolds work well, I milled the left side on an angle to tuck it in closer to the block to clear the steering before I went with block huger headers. Custom radiator, I have two pusher fans with a thermo switch and an over ride in the cockpit. You will need to reverse the shift linkage on the PG If you want to you the stock shifter. A new drive shaft will be needed/adapted. Wiring is not, hard use the stock temp sender with a modified fitting, alt works[GM] the same way as the Volvo, starter wire,oil pressure same deal. It is not hard but you will need to fab parts, some where I have the patterns for the motor mounts. PM me for more info.
 
Here's the steering shaft I used on my LS swap: https://www.walmart.com/ip/COLEMAN-...-18-Long-Steering-Shaft-P-N-119-118/180080655

The stock shaft is bulky and has a rubber isolator - I figured even if it didn't touch that the heat would eventually break down the rubber.

Might as well go 'full width' on the radiator - the 240 radiator only fills part of the space in the radiator area on a 240. I used one of these: https://www.northernradiator.com/HI..._RADIATORS/16_INCH_FORD-MOPAR_RACE_PRO/209622
Pretty much a direct bolt in. They have a 'Chevy/GM' version that's the same other than the high/low hoses and filler cap being on opposite sides. I needed the 'Ford/Mopar' style because I have a couple of wastegates down low on the passenger side - can't have a radiator hose there too.
 
When I had my radiator Custom made HD 4 core, I used the full opening of the core support opening, GM upper and lower hose fittings, I run a remote expansion tank with a filler plug on the radiator. I also had a dead end tube put in on the upper hose side to put the temp sensor in to turn on the fans with an override on the dash.
 
I kept my Turbo expansion tank off to the side, and a plain non-pressure cap on the radiator.

And rather than try to find hoses that would work, I just pieced mine together with silicone couplers and bits of aluminum tubing. With a couple of sensor adapters along the way - one to turn the fans on and off (also have a dash switch), and one for the Volvo temp gauge sender.
 
I retapped the sensor adapter in the radiator hose for the stock Volvo temp sender. There are two on the Volvo motor, one with two leads for the ECU, one with a single spade connector for the gauge.

Tachometer running from an output on my Megasquirt, set to 50% scaling.

Aftermarket oil pressure gauge that I was using on the Volvo motor is on the LS motor - just used an adaptor for the sender in the LS motor's normal oil pressure spot.
 
Temp sensor

Volvo240Powerglide said:
so @283 the sensor would read temperature and turn on the fans? did I get that correctly? what is the purpose of the override switch?
Click to expand...

The fans will come on automatic with the sensor in the radiator, the over ride is so that I can turn them on before the sensor does, example, If I see traffic stopped, long wait at a light, waiting to get through a toll booth,at the bank drive up etc.
 
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