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Old 03-31-2006, 07:19 AM   #1
Bishop
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Default Fitting a rear sway bar on a 700/900 series wagon...

As some might have realised, your average 700 wagon does not come with a rear bar, which is a serious oversight when it comes to good handling, the following is just a brief guide on what you need, and how to fit it...

Step Zero, find yourself some brackets to mount the rear bar, the wagons do not come with these brackets, the rear bars have two mounting points per side, the front point mounts to the lower shock mount, but the rear point is secured to this bracket.

This Vadis pic shows you what you need, basically just the brackets (2-1272960), the square neck screws (3-947292), and the flange nuts (4-971095).
Don't worry about the lower shock bolts or the trailing arm bolts, the existing ones should already be heaps long enough to accommodate the mounting of the bracket and bar.

As for where to get the brackets and bolts etc, you can get them as a kit from a Volvo dealer (new), or from your local wreckers (used), they should cost no more than around $25 used, and I think Volvo quoted me like $50 ages ago when I inquired.

Step One, raise the rear of your car, either on stands, or ramps, but also keep the jack handy, as ideally you want to keep some support under the trailing arm, as you are removing two of it's four supporting points when your fitting a bracket...

Tools for the job should include a Jack, Work Stands/Ramps, 19mm Socket/Spanner, 17mm Socket/Spanner, 15mm Socket/Spanner, and some loctite and spray lube if you have it.

Step Two, it never hurts to spray some penetrating lube on the nuts and bolts you want to remove, you can do that and go make a coffee if you like, or be a real man and rely on brute strength, and get stuck in right away...

As mentioned before, support the side you want to work on properly, maybe I'm just paranoid, but I don't want to create to much load on any point where it's not necessary.
Even with the support shown here, the trailing arm to axle brackets still separated a good 1/4 inch when the nuts were removed.
These nuts are 17mm, and covered with a lovely coating of under body sealant, so they could be fun to get a spanner around at first, they are also on quite tight.

Step Three, it helps to scrape your nuts clean before refitting them (lol), you can also scrape the area where the bracket will go up on to, you don't really want all that goop between the bracket and trailing arm...


Once clean enough for your own liking, put some loctite on the nuts and bolts, and your now ready to fit your brackets into place.

Step Four, fit your bracket into place, and torque your nuts up nice and tight, I'm not sure of the torque setting, I just did mine up FFT (fairly ****ing tight).

Sorry for the lack of pics here, I was far too dirty at this stage to pick up the camera again.
Now, go back to Step Two and repeat on the other side of the car.

Step Five, undo your lower shock mount, it should be 19mm for the nut, and 17mm for the bolt, depending on who has worked on your car, the bolt could be facing in or out, for ease of fitment of the bar, it's probably better facing in, as then you don't need to remove the bolt to fit the bar, just the nut.
If you have to remove the bolt, make sure to support the shock, so getting the bolt back in is easy.

Step Six, with the shock bolts exposed, raise the bar into place, and onto the lower shock bolts, it should not be real hard, you can push the bolts out a little, raise the bar and push the bolts back in and wind the nuts on to secure it in place.
Once the shock bolts are holding it, lift the bar up, and fit your square neck bracket bolts into the bar, and also just fit the nuts by hand, it should start looking like this...

Now you just have to torque up the bolts, the nuts for the bracket bolts should be 15mm, I have no idea of the torque needed, again for me it was just FFT, and I did not bother with loctite here, but you can if your worried about them coming loose.

And now congratulations, you have a wagon with a rear sway bar, and it should look something like this...



Things to look out for, my lower shock bolts were bloody tight, and remember you need a spanner on both sides once you crack them, the bracket to bar bolts are easy, the square neck means you just need the one spanner, as the bolt is always secured in place by design.
I found on my wagon now, stuff in the rear actually moves around less than without the bar, my shopping now stays where it's put on the trip home...
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Last edited by Bishop; 03-31-2006 at 11:14 AM..
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Old 03-31-2006, 12:12 PM   #2
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Nice write up, but maybe things are different in your market. I simply took a rear bar from a 700 wagon that cane with one and put it on my wagon. I didn't have to mess with finding brackets or anything. I simply took off the bolts and put the bar on and tightened the bolts. I didn't even use a jack if I remember correctly.
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Old 03-31-2006, 01:19 PM   #3
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So your wagon had the brackets but no bar?
I know other people have said wagons got rear bars where they are, but I know here, and a few other places, were the wagons mostly came without.
Generally it's the lack of brackets that confuse most people, when they are not there, it's hard to realise what's missing, so I figured it would be best to show people where they go and how to fit them.
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Old 03-31-2006, 07:24 PM   #4
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None of the US spec 700 wagons came with rear bars. Some of the 900s did, I think. Certainly the easiest thing is to just grab the brackets and bar at the same time. That's what I did, and the junkyard didn't charge extra.
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Old 04-18-2007, 08:52 AM   #5
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Would the rear swaybar from a 240 work?
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Old 04-18-2007, 09:32 PM   #6
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I don't think so but almost all 700 sedans(no irs)have a rear sway and most turbos have a thicker one. Found some today and put them on it's a breeze.Found a front ipd in a shmaaashed 91 bertone and the rear from a 85 740 turbo and yeah scraping the under coating off sucks!
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Old 04-18-2007, 09:43 PM   #7
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I put one on my 940 wagon last weekend, easy as.. Just a little one from a 740 turbo sedan, but it makes a big difference... I don't think I'd go thicker though personally. Broke my cheap ratchet in the process, so I get to buy a new one. All good.

240 ones won't fit but *maybe* you could make them fit. I'd just grab a 740 and the brackets.
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:47 AM   #8
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Nice, is that the swaybar from my white 740 that I gave you ages ago?
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Old 07-25-2007, 11:52 AM   #9
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Are there different brackets for sedan and wagon? I picked up a set of IPD sways at the junkyard the other day from a 90 744 and grabbed the brackets as well...

Maybe, just maybe I did the right thing? Either way, the set of sways was 25 bucks.
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Old 07-25-2007, 12:38 PM   #10
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AFAIK the 700 sedans and wagons can use the same rear sway bars down to the brackets. So, all you have to do is go bracket shopping. :D
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Old 07-25-2007, 12:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_R View Post
Are there different brackets for sedan and wagon? I picked up a set of IPD sways at the junkyard the other day from a 90 744 and grabbed the brackets as well...

Maybe, just maybe I did the right thing? Either way, the set of sways was 25 bucks.
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AFAIK the 700 sedans and wagons can use the same rear sway bars down to the brackets. So, all you have to do is go bracket shopping. :D
I'm all set!
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Old 07-25-2007, 09:49 PM   #12
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So can you get the brackets from Volvo?
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Old 07-26-2007, 01:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V-Jet View Post
Nice, is that the swaybar from my white 740 that I gave you ages ago?
Yep, I got sick of all the rear body roll, and it turned out that I prefur the 16mm rear bar.

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Originally Posted by mikes02ls1 View Post
So can you get the brackets from Volvo?
You can, but used will be a lot cheaper.


In terms of what has what, most 700 sedans will probably have 19mm front and 16mm rear bars, turbo models should have 21mm front and 19mm rear.

As to what works, I fitted a 16mm bar because I had one laying around, it was going to be temporary until I picked up a 19mm, but I quickly found out bigger is not always better.
Wagons already have thicker/harder rear springs than a sedan, combine that with a bar on something that came without, and you suddenly find you have reduced traction is all sorts of conditions.

On my ride I also have a stiff 24mm Whiteline front bar, so I could probably get away with a 19mm rear, but I actually prefer the extra traction from staying with the 16, it still kills the god awful tipping over feeling from the back end, but leaves you with reasonable wet weather handling and general all around good traction.
If you like flat and stiff, then sure go nuts on bar size, but after having lived with this upgrade for some time, I still recommend putting a rear bar on a wagon, but now would only recommend trying a 16mm bar first.
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:26 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikes02ls1 View Post
So can you get the brackets from Volvo?
do you want an ipd rear bar and brackets? PM me if you do
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Old 07-27-2007, 09:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stylngle2003 View Post
do you want an ipd rear bar and brackets? PM me if you do
Set ya PM...
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Old 09-22-2007, 01:40 PM   #16
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Just fitted a rear bar to the back of my waggon this afternoon, what a difference. Anyone thinking about doing this DO IT NOW. This is the best value for money suspension upgrade you can get.
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Old 09-25-2007, 05:26 PM   #17
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yeah mine just went on - brackets not needed - 25mm IPD sways - one of the best upgrades to the car handling.




(oh if I don't strap things down in the back they go for a tumble! but I like to corner quick...)
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Old 09-26-2007, 05:16 AM   #18
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getting the front bar from an 88+ 760 turbo (23.5mm) is a nice match to the rear 19mm bar
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Old 09-26-2007, 05:19 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ravennexus View Post
getting the front bar from an 88+ 760 turbo (23.5mm) is a nice match to the rear 19mm bar
88+ 760 sedan anyhow.
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Old 03-08-2008, 01:25 AM   #20
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Default Fitting a rear sway bar on a 700/900 series wagon

I looked those part numbers for the brackets and they are less than $5.00 each at dealer. two brackets, two square-head screws and two nuts was less than $15.00.
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