• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

89 240 stalls at restart when hot

mhgreen

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Location
Portland, OR
Starts great in the morning, or if it's been sitting for a long time. However, after driving across town and stopping (i.e. Grocery trip) when I start it the idle is rough and then it stalls. No codes. If I sit there and give it some gas I can eventually come off the throttle and the idle will level out and I'm good to go. Thoughts ? Thanks in advance
 
Starts great in the morning, or if it's been sitting for a long time. However, after driving across town and stopping (i.e. Grocery trip) when I start it the idle is rough and then it stalls. No codes. If I sit there and give it some gas I can eventually come off the throttle and the idle will level out and I'm good to go. Thoughts ? Thanks in advance
Just had this happen - identical scenario - was bad solder joints

Look at your main relay and the black radio suppression one if you have it - on my suppression relay I could see the gaps in the joints on the solder pads - cold start was perfect then exactly what you've got going on hot

Worth a shot before you have to really get into it - maybe you'll get lucky like I did
 
I have had the same problem. It turned out to be a bad VR-sensor.

True, but most of the time they (crank sensors) go in a hot/cold, fail/no fail kind of way - won't stumble back to life on an engine that's still hot

Said "most" NOT "always"

Still, a good thing to consider - anything's possible

The relay is a high percentage failure with high miles and is a cheap quick easy check/item to eliminate
 
Diagnosis is needed. I just got my $80 Hantek scope to start speaking English again. It could be used in this case to eliminate the guess work with just one tool: check spark, check fuel injector pulse, EZK square wave signal, etc. Or low tech works fine too.
 
So we just climbed out of a heat wave - temps went from 100 and 90s to 70s . Did the same driving I've been doing today and no problems. Haven't diagnosed or investigated anything yet but temperature is a conspicuous variable here.
 
True, but most of the time they (crank sensors) go in a hot/cold, fail/no fail kind of way - won't stumble back to life on an engine that's still hot

Said "most" NOT "always"

Still, a good thing to consider - anything's possible

The relay is a high percentage failure with high miles and is a cheap quick easy check/item to eliminate

I'm having the same issue as the OP. Which relay are you referring to? The fuel pump relay?
 
Vapor lock could be a thing if you're fuel pump or FPR is kicking itself in the pants.

You should check fuel pressure, FPR and fuel filter blockage to see whats what.
 
Back
Top