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Project BPU! DD 945 turbo

AIGHT. it's been a year (holy crap almost to the day, what providence!)

this is about to pick back up! ordered the bne street coilover setup, adjustable panhard, and the cool guy strut mounts (with the slick bearings for that there steerin').

The goal is not to slam the car, lower it a little bit but mainly r&r the busted 200k suspension. to that end I also ordered up a selection of poly bushings. subframe will get reinforced, torque rods will get the polys, and that should do'r for a while. brakes look good on the car (new lines up front, haven't checked in the back yet), gonna let that ride for now as well.

Also ordered a walbro 450 to drop in the tank, car has been running increasingly poor lately (due in no small amount to neglect I'm sure, but even when it was running well it had a sudden onset lean-ness with the megasquirt in boost, somewhat implicating a fuel pressure issue), so I'm just gonna do that more as a PM than anything else, new filter, and ditch the under-car pump because not needed.
Also went ahead and ordered up exhaust stuff, it'll have a cat, resonator, and rear muffler.. hoping to keep it drone free in normal operation.

need to work up an intercooler upgrade, still thinking npr oughta be good for the goals. likely gonna use the turbo off the parts R, as well as the injectors off the same. an ipd turbo cam will round it out nicely at some point. I don't know that I'll be able to stage things like I wanted (because I don't want to build/rebuild the downpipe for the R turbo, but we'll see), but I think I can reasonably hit the high points still (intercooler before/after, cam before/after, turbo upgrade before/after.. I mean the 13c with the more or less open downpipe is more or less peak 13c performance capability there).

oh and I have some little things to work out in the car as well.. possibly a manual damper rod for the vent select, since that part is apparently nla and a suitable replacement hasn't been found (plus.. butchering a broken stock one is fine), a/c will likely need a booster shot, fluids checked and changed as necessary, the usual suspects.

edit: photo!
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got the front done last night late (not adjusted yet.. but the springs hit the tires, so... that will require some 'love')

on to the back today
 
finished all the bushings I had (one or two were backordered, don't recall exactly which ones, not 100% important though, I hit the high spots), got the shocks and springs and panhard bar on the back along with the trailing arm bushings and torque rod bushings (SO much easier with a press.. it was a half-day ordeal on the green 940 a decade ago, it was a 10 minute in and out this time)

didn't have a suitable piece of angle, so the subframe isn't back in yet, may do a quick video on how I reinforce them, it's worked so far on the green wagon and the gold car.
got boxes of parts yesterday (amazon and summit now apparently get things delivered on sundays, who knew.. I did *not* get overnight parts or anything like that), but they're gonna ride the bench til enough of the rest of the parts come in. (i.e. I've got my fuel fittings, filter, part of the exhaust components, but no pump, no muffler, no cat.. haven't pulled the turbo off the parts R either, so there is that as well..

also may have to get wheel spacers(well, to run the hydras, I *will* have to get wheel spacers) for the front, even at better than full lean in they hit the tires.
 
subframe is just about done, got a little bit of extra welding to do, and then a couple holes to drill. got the resonator and cat in today, couple other odds and ends are slated to show up tomorrow/thursday. Currently hoping I didn't catch the 'rona sunday afternoon (or if I did, that it doesn't slow me down tooo much), so if I've got the energy this evening I'll go ahead and pre-emptively drop the fuel tank and get started on all of that. on a good day I wouldn't have to, but this way it'll be easier even if it takes a little longer (which honestly it probably won't, because lift). that'll leave pulling parts off the parts R and getting all of that ready to roll.
 
yeah, ol trusty (esp for the application). fuel pump got here today as well, but I did not get the install kit that it said it came with. this wouldn't be an issue except I don't have a spare 450 sock sitting around in the shop (I do have all of the other components)
 
got most of the "fab" work done for the 450 in-tank install, didn't have sufficient (read:any) correct gauge black wire, so I'll be making a run on the parts store tomorrow for that, antifreeze, oil, filter. still waiting on the pump install kit (which really means I'm waiting on the sock that's in the kit, I have the rest of the stuff, and the sender will be done tomorrow minus that).

over the next day or two I'm gonna suffer through removing the turbo from the parts r along with the injectors, and size up the intercooler install. I could totally half-ass that with what I have on hand, but I imagine what I'll do is get it in place, half-ass the microsquirt tune, and drop it off with greg for some quick pipework and mods to piping to have a nice finished and unlikely to blow off product. Yes, I could do that myself, but it's around the corner from the guy that's gonna be doing the alignment, and also around the corner from the tint shop I used for the R, so I may see if I can get a 3-fer and just have greg or one of them move the car around for me (literally all of these places are within half a mile of each other).

ordered stereo stuff, that should be here teusday.. new door speakers and a new head unit. if I can find my amp, I'll work on getting a sub in the car, but that's not a high priority right this second.

Coming together. I really need to take more pictures.
 
Yeah, pics would be great - 3 pages & one pic of partial BNE strut assembly - some project thread :lol:

Always good to see documentation of mods (450 in tank, for example), there are always individual differences that are nice to see in pictures - text explanations just don't complete the picture at all, esp. for visual learners.
 
I do have several pics (though, none of the sender yet, but it's not so far along as to be obscure). I'll pull over the fb pics here in a minute and see if I can get my phone to cooperate with my computer.

finished front suspension
171933136.jpg


arguably the hardest bushings to press in out of everything-strut rod/radius rod bushings (though, with a press, none of them were particularly hard this time around)
171933139.jpg


rear suspension together (minus subframe)
171933137.jpg


side view
171933138.jpg


and a blurry placeholder (not sure why it was blurry either, I took another pic right before that of the gaping hole where the fuel tank was and it was crisp), you can see what I did with the subframe but it's not very clear. boxed the end, and there are braces along the top as well.
171933140.jpg
 
The rear frame bracing is to beef up the sispensionmount points? Haven't investigated that - I may want to do something similar once I start on the pickup truck mods
 
if you're doing a v8 swap and you plan to beat on it, you're better off replacing that whole thing with an aftermarket ladder bar (that's basically what it is anyway).. that being said, my turbo l33 has basically the same setup under it, however with the new looser converter and some launch control I imagine it'll break things-so I haven't done that yet.

in stock form the subframe has a lot of soft-ish rubber pickups and attachments, and tends to distort quickly under load, to the point where sudden transitions can bend it, break the torque rods (which are not substantial by any means, but they work in the direction they're intended to work), I've twisted up a couple with a warmed up 8v and manual transmission. What I found was that you can get rid of the rubber attachment points at the top rear of the subframe, box it in and bolt it to the chassis (I usually cut up a bushing or use something similar to space it off of the sheet metal a little and give it a touch of NVH assistance.. but if you leave everything else alone just with upgraded bushings there's no change at all in driveline noise in the car) the frame will stop twisting and the torque rods have a much lower chance of getting turned out of phase and bending/breaking. to help with it some more I usually put some extra ties along the top so things won't get distorted, and I haven't had problems with them really since then. I will add the caveat that I do not run manual transmissions in these cars really any more either, and that also goes a really long way to keeping things in the back alive.

snapped a couple more pics, bout to go pull the r turbo and injectors off the parts r and size up that part of this build, but it's warm and I gotta trim some weeds first to have space to work.

more subframe pics:
171934494.jpg


the braces (just flat iron, probably not needed honestly, but force of habbit)
171934495.jpg


fuel sender mods. still waiting on a couple odds and ends in the mail.
171934496.jpg


171934497.jpg


171934498.jpg


the straight fitting is just there to protect the threads on the bulkhead fitting, I'll end up using a 90 for the high pressure out, and it'll go straight into the back of the oe fuel filter (so, main pump delete).

the wiring bulkhead is for the higher gauge wiring to run the 450, and I'll be triggering a relay off of the old in-tank pump wiring to turn that pump on, with it's own power feed coming off the battery, fused, and run back.
 
Nice work. It's been 20 years since I owned a 700 wagon - I forgot how soft that forward mount is. I'm not planning on any performance mods to speak of on my '91, however I will be hauling loads when it's a pickup, so won't hurt to beef up the ladder structure.

I assume the sender fittings are appropriate grade hardware to prevent fuel contamination/breakdwon?
 
this guy was far far more miserable to remove than anticipated.
171935108.jpg



the leadup to getting it out involved trimming the scrub brush around the side of the shop, and more times up and down from the ramp than I care to admit. getting all of the fasteners off was actually not a big deal, I had it loose inside of an hour, just casually taking my time. after that, it went pear shaped on me. oh well, it's out. gonna see what reclocking will bring to the table in terms of fab work and fittings required. shouldn't be a big deal but I reckon we'll see.
 
Nice work. It's been 20 years since I owned a 700 wagon - I forgot how soft that forward mount is. I'm not planning on any performance mods to speak of on my '91, however I will be hauling loads when it's a pickup, so won't hurt to beef up the ladder structure.

I assume the sender fittings are appropriate grade hardware to prevent fuel contamination/breakdwon?

yeah they should be. in both cases they're mainly in there for splash sealing, the wiring one is (allegedly) for fuel tanks, the AN bulkhead fitting is as well, most of it is aluminum which should be fine, with two rubber-ish rings on it. the wiring one has a single o-ring on the outside. compared to how I've done some other stuff in years past this is several steps up (although, all of my other 7/900s have plastic sending unit "tops", so getting a metal one was a bit of a surprise). the line is 10j30 or 30j10, whichever... submersible high pressure fuel line, with the appropriate clamps.


If I have to take it back out, I'm going to put the larger late model tank in the car, have a spare propped up out back, would just need a sending unit for it I think, iirc I used that one for the gold car, or someone else's, I don't exactly recall. or it's on a shelf somewhere. If I get time tomorrow, I'll probably start sizing up the swap task, as well as try the eikers on the car and see if they don't rub the front suspension.
 
eikers *just* clear the spring perches, so I'll be digging up some spacers and some extended studs.

anyone know off hand if a .561 knurl will work on a 7/900 front? the googles tells me the oe knurl is like .527 or .537, for a total difference of .86mm... I'm thinking I can get that dog to hunt, but I don't want to screw something up.

Happy Labor day folks, I'm gonna play in the shop for a little bit and then get in the pool.
 
eikers *just* clear the spring perches, so I'll be digging up some spacers and some extended studs.

anyone know off hand if a .561 knurl will work on a 7/900 front? the googles tells me the oe knurl is like .527 or .537, for a total difference of .86mm... I'm thinking I can get that dog to hunt, but I don't want to screw something up.

Happy Labor day folks, I'm gonna play in the shop for a little bit and then get in the pool.

You would need to open up the holes a little bit, could use a drill bit or a reamer. .030" is too tight. You want something like .010" to .013" "interference"
 
ordered up a reamer and a drillbit, thankfully I have some spare hubs laying around somewhere if I screw it up.

should have the bulk of the required bits and bobs to put the turbo on headed this way, that project starts this evening I suppose, along with the fuel pump install and wiring run front to back (sub wiring, and fuel pump wiring). not necessarily in that order, but yall get the idea. been soaking the hardware in b'laster since sunday, perhaps that part will go well. No pics (yet), but I haven't really done a whole lot since sunday afternoon either.
 
more progress. fuel system is plumbed back up (but not wired yet.. wires run though)
new filter with fitting who dis
171943761.jpg


taking the old 13c off
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aannd out
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didn't think the k24 was that much larger, but in comparison...
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damn stud.. gotta drill that hole out, so hopefully nothing of value was lost, but maaaan that was a pain.
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