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Old 03-16-2020, 03:16 PM   #1
Jonny4
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Exclamation Prv engine?

Howís it goin Iím brand new on this forum and donít really know what Iím doing. I have a Volvo 240 and a 78í 265 wagon with the PRV engine. I replaced both fuel pumps, fuel accumulator, fuel filter, cleaned out the mechanical injectors(they spray). I am getting fuel tobthe engine and I am getting spark to the engine. The car will crank but still wonít start and Iím stumped. Anyone know what it could be? Thank you so much in advance!
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Old 03-16-2020, 05:32 PM   #2
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Good next steps to consider would be checking fuel and ignition timing, I'd suggest starting off with the ignition, and then looking into if somehow the mechanical fuel timing can be tuned. You've gotten the spark and fuel, now get them together;)

p.s. Volvo has a history of using various systems to retard/advance certain timing setups for emission purposes, if you have access to a manual getting an idea of how the whole system works will save you a lot of possible confusion later. I'm unfamiliar with the prv, but that should get you a better idea of where to start and/or if some vacuum system is working against you.
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Old 03-16-2020, 05:36 PM   #3
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ď[QUOTE=Swedbrick;6057498]Good next steps to consider would be checking fuel and ignition timing, I'd suggest starting off with the ignition, and then looking into if somehow the mechanical fuel timing can be tuned. You've gotten the spark and fuel, now get them together;)Ē

Thank you! I do have a manual so I will get to seeing if how that work! I was also thinking it could be compression, do you think that would have anything to do with it? It ran before I replaced the fuel pumps and did the injectors. Thank you for your help!
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Old 03-16-2020, 05:46 PM   #4
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Hey welcome to the forums !!! About your wagon, Try dumping some fuel through the intake and check the sparks to see if they are wet. This is based on your comment that you have spark and fuel. From there you might need to check belt timing and compression.
Best of luck , you are in the right place.
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Old 03-16-2020, 05:49 PM   #5
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Hey welcome to the forums !!! About your wagon, Try dumping some fuel through the intake and check the sparks to see if they are wet. This is based on your comment that you have spark and fuel. From there you might need to check belt timing and compression.
Best of luck , you are in the right place.
DZ
I did that and the plugs did come out wet. I tried it a few times to see if it was a one time thing it happened each time. Thank you for your help I will check both compression and belt timing which I honestly didnít even think about thank you for the warm welcome!
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Old 03-16-2020, 06:05 PM   #6
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It ran before I replaced the fuel pumps and did the injectors. Thank you for your help!
No problem welcome to the forum Are you sure the injectors are getting enough pressure to crack under cranking, if it ran before and you did not touch anything else, I'd first double check my work there, before touching other stuff. Fuel filters are also sometimes directional, possibly that's something else to check, I know I've made that mistake before
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Old 03-16-2020, 06:57 PM   #7
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Make sure the in tank pump was wired correctly.
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Old 03-16-2020, 08:15 PM   #8
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No problem welcome to the forum Are you sure the injectors are getting enough pressure to crack under cranking, if it ran before and you did not touch anything else, I'd first double check my work there, before touching other stuff. Fuel filters are also sometimes directional, possibly that's something else to check, I know I've made that mistake before

Okay Iíll check that thank you! And they should be getting enough pressure but Iíll make sure to check that as well thank you!
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Old 03-17-2020, 05:51 PM   #9
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'78 PRV - I am thinking K jet (untimed) fuel injection??? As I recall from my brief period of owning a car with the K jet system, starting fuel delivery does not occur through the port injectors. The K jet needs significant air flow through the fuel distribution thing to get fuel flow through the port injectors and that is not happening during cranking. As I recall, the K jet was like the D jet and had a separate starting injector which was time and temperature controlled. Check the operation of that injector and its thermal timer.

That pretty much sums up my memories of the K jet system.
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Old 03-17-2020, 08:16 PM   #10
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Take the air cleaner assembly off. Turn key on. Push the pie plate looking disc down. Do you feel any resistance? Do the injectors “sing”?
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Old 03-17-2020, 09:59 PM   #11
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Just moving this to a better spot - no harm, no foul.

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Old 03-17-2020, 10:19 PM   #12
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Are your spark plug wires in the correct order?
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Old 03-17-2020, 10:31 PM   #13
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Once you have wetted down the spark plugs they are gas fouled and you need to clean the gas off them and then check the gap and make sure it is correct per the manual. You can use a brass wire brush to clean the plugs and get a bosch spark plug gap gauge.

I would also verify that you are getting spark all the way to the plugs. That and the suggestion of checking the cold start injector. Also be aware that this engine is very sensitive to vacuum/air intake leaks.
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Old 03-21-2020, 12:02 AM   #14
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Welcome,
I have been wrestling a 1978 264 PRV for a year now. I would suggest like others have to ensure the ignition timing is correct and the cold start injector is working. I know when I first got mine I couldn't get it to start and found that the thermal switch, cold start injector, and frequency valve were all either not connected or wired wrong. After correcting this it would run, just very rough. Also, the auxiliary air valve gave me an issue where it wasn't opening to let in the extra air needed on start up. If the CO adjustment is off and if its far enough out of spec it could prevent start up. Wish you the best!
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Old 03-21-2020, 06:18 AM   #15
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First thing to do in a starting problem chase is to use starter fluid to determine fuel or ignition. Runs on starter fluid gotta be fuel. Doesn't run look to ignition or other.

You are going to need fuel pressure test equipment shortly. Here is a homemade set thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=289775

I assume with the pump/filter work that you have good gas in the tank.
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Old 03-22-2020, 01:51 PM   #16
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OP if it doesn't run on ether it is ignition.

Pull the coil wire. Hold it 1/2" from the strut tower and crank with the key on. Nice hot spark that audibly makes a snap-snap-snap? If so it is making enough spark. Pull a plug wire from a spark plug. Philips screwdriver in the wire held same 1/2" from a valve cover. Get same spark or none? Ignition secondary parts are a common failure. Chinesium replacement parts look like OE but are dead right out of the box more often then not.

I have seen too many times the hose that goes from airflow sensor housing to auxiliary air valve get popped out.... Takes exactly one 'sneeze' in the intake for this to happen. Then Elroy gets to work on it and twists the CO adjustment screw until it idles. The car is given up on months later to be sold for next to nothing.
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Old 03-22-2020, 02:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 142 guy View Post
'78 PRV - I am thinking K jet (untimed) fuel injection??? As I recall from my brief period of owning a car with the K jet system, starting fuel delivery does not occur through the port injectors. The K jet needs significant air flow through the fuel distribution thing to get fuel flow through the port injectors and that is not happening during cranking. As I recall, the K jet was like the D jet and had a separate starting injector which was time and temperature controlled. Check the operation of that injector and its thermal timer.

That pretty much sums up my memories of the K jet system.
'K-Jet' Continuous injection. One injector over each intake port. Volume of air 'sensed' (poorly by today's standards) by airflow sensor flap which operates plunger in 'Fuel distributor' to deliver fuel to injectors; corrected for engine temperature and O2 content in exhaust stream.
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Old 03-22-2020, 04:51 PM   #18
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When doing the ignition timing note that the PRV #1 cylinder is the one at the firewall left side. A previous owner's ASE certified oil change technician messed with the gear teeth and vacuum timing of distributor and got it within 30 degrees but it still didn't run right for some reason.

Any results with the fuel or ignition test?
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Old 03-22-2020, 08:16 PM   #19
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How much boost will a PVR take?
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Old 03-22-2020, 10:30 PM   #20
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How much boost will a PVR take?


Might as well blow it up, the alloy block doesn't have enough specific gravity to make a good boat anchor anyway.

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Old 03-26-2020, 12:02 AM   #21
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How much boost will a PVR take?
With forged pistons and H-Beam rods + programmable management mine made 504lb ft at the wheels with six pounds of boost. Things got really interesting when boost got turned up to 15lbs.... But that was not on the dyno.
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Old 03-26-2020, 04:31 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
Make sure the in tank pump was wired correctly.
I'm thinking Nel is referring to the frequency of Airtex(& others?) to produce in-tank pumps wired backwards ...I installed an Airtex, and I believe it fell into the time period of after the wiring correction was made(?).

My car ran better after I installed it, but I also replaced the main pump during the same procedure. In Clean Flame Trap's illustrated steps he covers the many intricate details of checking and installing an in-tank pump.

*In one diagram he demonstrates using a clear hose as an ingenious method to visually observe the operation of the in-tank pump(of course now I can't locate that diagram).
But here is a link to CFT at any rate

http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPu...#_Airtex_E8778


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Old 03-26-2020, 07:57 PM   #23
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Didn’t Renault use a form of the prv in there F1 car?
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