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Old 07-09-2020, 10:31 PM   #551
Broke4speed
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Took the valve cover off the AQ140A...and there's a 'D' cam in it. Absolutely no oil staining or baked on crud. It looks like a fresh rebuild, TBH.

There's no downside so far!
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Old 07-13-2020, 06:10 PM   #552
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Stopped by a local clutch company (Ottawa Clutch/Bully) to get a badly-pitted flat flywheel machined...and an hour later I had this:



I still have the AQ140A flywheel too, but it needs a lot of lightening before use. It's 4mm thicker than the stock flat one, and the rear recess is smaller too. It's HEAVY. I should sell it to STS, since they could probably make a useable one out of it .

I also did a bit of math and it looks like my adapter plate is going to have to be 1.25" thick if I stick with the SN95 input shaft. If I swap to the usual pre-94 one, the plate would be 1/2" thick. I guess it depends on which is more expensive...swapping shafts or a thick chunk of aluminum. I can definitely say it would be far easier to work with the thinner plate...but is it worth $200 CAD (ebay input shaft kit)...
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Old 07-14-2020, 12:53 PM   #553
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It looks like you've decided to dive back into the cast iron tractor engine.... to each his own, I can't imagine leaving the inline 6 with it's modern tech versus the iron lump.

FWIW, I'm sure that DeeWorks makes a direct T5 adapter disk that registers into the whiteblock bolt on BH which is on your auto box behind the inline. I know that you know this..... but you really don't have to invent anything in order to built a whiteblock with T5 manual behind it. Most likely the slave issue is well resolved (check the Full Banana's 242 which I believe runs this trans).

That said.... carry on.
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Old 07-14-2020, 02:40 PM   #554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
It looks like you've decided to dive back into the cast iron tractor engine.... to each his own, I can't imagine leaving the inline 6 with it's modern tech versus the iron lump.

FWIW, I'm sure that DeeWorks makes a direct T5 adapter disk that registers into the whiteblock bolt on BH which is on your auto box behind the inline. I know that you know this..... but you really don't have to invent anything in order to built a whiteblock with T5 manual behind it. Most likely the slave issue is well resolved (check the Full Banana's 242 which I believe runs this trans).

That said.... carry on.
There's nothing wrong with the whiteblock, it's actually pretty great...but I think I'd like to run a redblock for a while .

It's all been done, so there's an easy recipe for everything I'd like to do. I have never built an adapter plate, so I'd like to try. I find dealing with Deeworks.ca...exhausting. Their communication is...lacking...and I'd rather not deal with someone I have to harass just to get a tracking number or a shipping update. It's always gone the same way when I've ordered from him, which I guess most folks don't mind, but it drives me up the wall.

Ultimately, the cost of putting a manual box behind a whiteblock is what put me off. The trans isn't an issue anymore, but the flywheel is a $700 CAD expense of it's own, without a clutch or pressure plate. Then there's the hydraulic conversion, which is just a bit of my time, but then I have to buy/plumb the master...and an internal slave...and it all requires lines and fittings. Even if I made the adapter, I'd probably be out another 2k CAD minimum before I could even think about driving it. Right now, I'm only into the redblock T5 setup for about $200 CAD, since I got most of it in trades or for free.

I'll keep the main whiteblock swap bits, like the bellhousing, mounts, oil pan, etc, for the future .
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Old 07-19-2020, 08:46 PM   #555
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Further down the rabbit hole!



I want to run as close to original/simple as I can, so that involves a centrifugal/vac dizzy. The AQ140A came with a centrifugal points distributor, but I am a big supporter of vac advance (because it works!) so I set about converting it to vacuum. I've got a box of miscellaneous VW points distributors so I pulled the points mount/sliding advance plate out of one and replaced the static one in the Penta unit. I left the penta weights and springs in there for now, even though they seem a bit heavier than the usual stuff. It's supposedly all-in by 2800, which is fine...but it's a maximum of 36*-38*, which seems excessively high. Then I drilled a couple holes in the body of the distributor for the canister, and voila...done. I'll probably pertronix it, because as fun as points are, they're not for me. I want to run a pretty hot coil, and the last thing I want is to burn up the points.

Now, I'm not a total heathen, and I've run carbed cars in the past...but I do it in a modern way. I am KEEPING the Speeduino on board to datalog throttle position (I will retrofit a TPS), AFR (wideband staying in), coolant temp, air temp, and RPM. It makes tuning a LOT easier, because you can see exactly where each jet comes into play, and where the flat spots are exactly. I find that traditional carb tuning is not as good as the 'experts' say it is, and on a previous VW Rabbit on dual carbs I had, I managed to eek out 30mpg while not losing any power/torque. Now, it was a smaller car and only slightly brick shaped, but it was a mildly cammed 1.8L 8v. I haven't decided on my carbs just yet, I want to do more research.
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Old 07-19-2020, 08:54 PM   #556
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Fun fact: If you remove the throwout bearing sleeve from an M47/M46 bellhousing, and enlarge the hole to 1 7/16", it's a tight fit over the T5 bearing retainer sleeve. This allows you to get a very positive register for marking the bolt holes on a DIY adapter plate . The one I'm making is currently at the machine shop getting a 4.9" hole cut in the center to line up on the transmission securely. It's not critical to have it dead center, but I wasn't about to try to use a huge holesaw on a piece of 1.25" aluminum plate. I should be picking it up tomorrow and I can get started on marking the holes.

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Old 07-23-2020, 06:59 PM   #557
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I've started cleaning up the AQ140A and so far it's the best engine I've ever had. EVERYTHING is in great shape, and the oil pan is 100% rust free. The red paint on the block is still bright, and even the frost plugs are shiny.

I also got the first part of the T5 adapter done. I had a 2.8" hole cut in the bellhousing (due to mistakes being made on my part on the first try) and I'm going to make a locating ring that fits over the T5 release bearing sleeve and press-fits into the bellhousing. This will allow me to drill the bellhousing holes in the adapter and center everything. After that, I can cut off the excess material and make it nicer looking.

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Old 07-24-2020, 03:21 AM   #558
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I like where this is goin!
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Old 07-27-2020, 09:56 AM   #559
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I got the bellhousing back from the machine shop, and turned down some locating rings on the lathe at work. Once I make a rack to hold the transmisison bellhousing-up, I'll be drilling and tapping the holes. Then an Ironworker buddy of mine is going to trim the plate down with the plasma cutter at the Union hall. I did not relish trying to do it with a jigsaw or sawzall.




I put some time into cleaning the head, which was already ridiculously clean, but now it's better. I am going to try to use the AQ manifold somehow, so I drilled and tapped it for a brake booster port. The part that goes between the branches is a balance port, so it was a pretty convenient place to mount it. I have it pointing downwards, so it's mostly invisible unless you flip the manifold .




For the people who are slightly confused as to why I'm swapping the whiteblock out...let me tell you that I sometimes wonder that myself. The best explanation I can offer is that I just want to go back to a simpler engine. The B6304 is modern tech, and it drives like it. I miss the sound of an old cast-iron tractor engine, even if it's going to be much slower. A decade or so ago I found myself fighting with my own 'need for speed', and it was seriously affecting my finances (see username), and after being content with slow for a long time, the desire for more and more power was starting to get out of hand again. I have to step back but I don't want to give up my car...so the turbocharged temptation is coming out. Extreme, I know, but it works for me.
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Old 07-27-2020, 03:10 PM   #560
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The dilemma.
Before the T5 fell into my lap, I got this M46. I ordered a bunch of stuff from IPD to refresh it (and let me tell you, the premium to get it all into Canada is NOT low), then found the T5 a couple days later after it was too late to cancel. I just put all the goodies into it (fresh gaskets, new O/D tailshaft seal, STS bronze shifter bushings, and an STS delrin clutch cable bushing.

Now...what do I do with it? If I use the M46, all I need is a clutch/pp and the engine could be swapped now. If I wait for the T5...it'll be fall/winter and I still need a ford 8.5" disc, volvo PP, throwout bearing of some sort, and a custom driveshaft piece. UGH, I had NO manual boxes and now I have too many.

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Old 07-27-2020, 07:45 PM   #561
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Still not sure...but today the pertronix and bosch blue coil showed up .
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Old 07-28-2020, 08:01 AM   #562
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I liked my M46, popping in and out of overdrive with a button press was convenient. Downsides, clunky shifting. Ford T5 is much tighter.
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Old 07-28-2020, 08:17 AM   #563
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It's definitely driving me crazy. The M46 is a bolt-in affair, that would cost me a Rockauto.com clutch kit. The T5 is something I really want to do, but would require a bit more spending, and a trip to a driveshaft shop. If I hadn't ordered stuff to fix up the M46 before I got the T5, I'd just flip the Volvo box and work on the Ferd one.

I have nothing to lose by doing the M46, since my only concern is a dead O/D unit. If it is dead, then I guess I'll have 4 speeds while waiting to finish the T5 swap parts collecting. It would give me a chance to re-make a few parts that I'm not totally happy with.

I guess I've decided then. M46 for now, so I can finish the swap before winter (which is a concern, because I can't work on the car during the cold months and having something half-done will drive me batty). Then accumulate the rest of the parts I need for the T5.
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Old 08-01-2020, 12:21 PM   #564
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As I was putting the exhaust studs in yesterday, I noticed something funny. Every single stud hole has been helicoiled. This engine has definitely been refurbished .

The 8.5" turbo clutch kit is showing up next wed/thurs, and then I can start to plan the install of the engine.
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Old 08-01-2020, 08:57 PM   #565
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Never throw out your original power steering pump, especially if it has all the tensioner brackets on it. You'll find yourself buying stuff you shouldn't have to, ugh.
Thankfully a local dude had what I was after .
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Old 08-03-2020, 03:48 PM   #566
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The adapter is done. It needs trimming, and I have no idea how far out from true it is, but I did it and I'm stoked. I need to get it trimmed, and figure out if I'm going to sacrifice the M46 bellhousing (although I don't have to mod it) or stick with the one that's on it currently, that means I have to use a Ford throwout bearing. Going with the M46 one means I can use the volvo bearing, but that's the only difference.

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Old 08-03-2020, 11:24 PM   #567
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If you do end up installing that M46, keep in mind that it is an older unit from a pre-1979 car, so it has fewer splines on the input shaft. You may not be able to get a heavier duty clutch kit for it.
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Old 08-04-2020, 04:15 PM   #568
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It's a 22-spline box .

Heading down to the local Iron Workers union hall on sat to use the plasma cutter and trim up the adapter. A buddy of mine (also a neighbour) is an instructor there and offered to let trim it myself.

Hell.

Yes.
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Old 08-04-2020, 09:26 PM   #569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke4speed View Post
It's a 22-spline box .

Heading down to the local Iron Workers union hall on sat to use the plasma cutter and trim up the adapter. A buddy of mine (also a neighbour) is an instructor there and offered to let trim it myself.

Hell.

Yes.
Oops, I was looking at the pic in post#557, but now I’m realizing that this input shaft is the T5 tranny.
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