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"Boat", the 1992 240 Wagon

Wow I'm so impressed with your attention to detail and patience, giving that 240 the love it deserves! Curious to see how your soundproofing endeavor goes. My car is very loud on the highway and I would love to find ways to remedy that since I like roadtrips!
 
Wow I'm so impressed with your attention to detail and patience, giving that 240 the love it deserves! Curious to see how your soundproofing endeavor goes. My car is very loud on the highway and I would love to find ways to remedy that since I like roadtrips!

Mucho gracias

I'll be putting stuff back together until I have all the supplies gathered to do the soundproofing the way I want to do it. Probably around May or June
 
Boat got a wicked schweet awning yesterday

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Great build. How do you like the EBC pads?

Thanks!

I honestly cannot tell a difference :lol:

They dust just as much as the OE pads (a bit peeved about it), and don't have any different brake feel than OE.

I got them hoping to get a high quality grippy pad with less dust, but oh well. My calipers aren't showing any evidence of dragging either.
 
Boat will be receiving a 1" extended kaplhenke front coilover set, but I had to check some important parameters first. Most notably, how much angular displacement do I have left in the ball joint, and will it bottom out at full droop with the extended strut housings?

Here's my investigation:

The ball joint has a maximum angular displacement of 35 degrees relative to the normal of the control arm plane.
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With stock suspension at full droop, I measured the control arm to be 17 degrees to horizontal, and measured the ball joint to be at 25 degrees of angular displacement from the normal projection of the control arm plane.
aH8WQr6h.jpg

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I also measured the control arm to be roughly 12.5" from pivot point to ball joint center.

So, neglecting changes in strut angle (max 3 degrees added camber?), we can calculate the new control arm angle from a 1" increase in strut length:

sin^-1[((12.5*sin(17 deg))+1)/12.5] = 21.8 degrees.

So I can expect a maximum of 5 degrees increase (21.8-17) in control arm angle from extending the strut housing 1".
If I set a front negative camber of -3 degrees, I should still be in the clear, but barely. I doubt I'll need that much camber to compensate for the positive camber shift of raising the front 1"
 
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Not much new with boat, other than a few road trips and new alternator.

Ditched the denso for a bosch 100a. Much better charging at idle now. Had to use longer belts though.

Here're some photos I never posted from the OHV park

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Good pictures. Great idea on ditching the Denso(they are all junk, I don't why people keep recommending them).

Thanks.

Yeah my denso stopped charging at idle when hot.

The bosch is bulkier but has been delivering consistently in the 13.5V range when hot idling & all electronics on.

I think people probably recommend the denso because they never get 105*+ F days where they are. My denso worked fine in sub-90F weather, but that isn't going to cut it for about a third of the year in TX
 
alternator

Hi, Have you considered a chevy alternator?
they are dime a dozen and they push 105 amps and 14,5 volts. I used the one from a chevy Savana in my project and it worked fine until i crossed a wire with the fan and blew the regulator. So I went or a bigger one that I think it pushes 140 amps.
They are almost like yours

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MpUAAOSwXMxcIBjg/s-l300.jpg

http://www.vlvautoparts.com/vlvautoparts_images/produits/51.3193.jpg

Maybe the pulley might work and you can run plenty of power from them.
Good luck and Godspeed in your project
DZ:)
 
Hi, Have you considered a chevy alternator?
they are dime a dozen and they push 105 amps and 14,5 volts. I used the one from a chevy Savana in my project and it worked fine until i crossed a wire with the fan and blew the regulator. So I went or a bigger one that I think it pushes 140 amps.
They are almost like yours

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MpUAAOSwXMxcIBjg/s-l300.jpg

http://www.vlvautoparts.com/vlvautoparts_images/produits/51.3193.jpg

Maybe the pulley might work and you can run plenty of power from them.
Good luck and Godspeed in your project
DZ:)

When the bosch goes, I'll check this out. Thanks for the tip
 
Did a small but necessary roadtrip mod for the 240: left elbow pad

The stock armrest is very hard & not very nice to the ulnar nerve on long road trips.

I cut a secton of foam from an old 850 seat cushion, and cut up some vinyl from my old 240 seat cover.

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Comfy and doeasn't look too out of place. The command strips I used to adhere it lasted a whole 12 hours though. Need to find a heat resistant adhesion method

XgxzuCol.jpg


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Really elegant looking solution. I need to do something similar but on the windowsill of my wagon. I’m used to having a thicker width door card which is where I generally rest my elbow so something like this would be a great benefit to me on the upper sill location.
 
That's a really nice idea there. We don't even have a center armrest for ours. A place to put my elbows during any longer drive would be nice. Good work!
 
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