BW55 to M46 swap

Okay so I?m new on this site and was just wondering what?s everything that gotta be done to swap a BW55 transmission to a M46 , the Volvo is an 1982 244 GL (Canadian) with a B23E engine.


218,xxx km

It's the same for pretty much all 240s, but, here goes:

1) M46 - try to get a 1280141 or 1208211 box.
2) driveshaft
3) overdrive wiring - you have a couple choices, you can either go with the 1981-on setup with the relay, rubberized shift knob and OD button, or the pre-1981 setup with the bakelite shift knob and slide switch that doesn't require a relay
4) speedometer cable - part number 1215546
5) clutch and brake pedal bracket - pre-1983 non-turbo brackets don't have the spring that holds down the pedal to keep pressure on the release bearing - that one is preferred
6) clutch cable with retaining washer, rubber block, and the return spring
7) clutch kit and pilot bearing that replaces the sleeve that the torque converter rides on
8) flywheel
9) 140-106 Bosch aux. air valve - different than the one used on the automatic B21F and B23E cars
10) jumper plug that jumps the connection where the neutral safety switch connects and allows the starter to work
11) I'd consider updating to a 1984 or newer starter, since the holes are threaded - no need to hold an open end wrench on the starter side of the block to tighten the nuts and bolts holding the starter in place. Instead, they thread directly into the starter.

With respect to the EGR system, the automatic cars use a stepless system, whereas the M46 cars have an on/off system. Some B23E cars, namely the 1981 GLT cars and the 1979-80 Euro/Australian GT cars, do not have EGR. You might consider deleting it. Had an '81 242DL with a GLT spec B23E that had 211K km installed in it. Smog values were surprisingly the same as a 1982 B23E with EGR.

With a couple friends and air tools, expect it to take about four hours from start to finish. It does help to pull the dash for extra room while working. You will need to drill a hole for the clutch cable to come through the firewall.

John242Ti said:

It's the same for pretty much all 240s, but, here goes:

1) M46 - try to get a 1280141 or 1208211 box.
2) driveshaft
3) overdrive wiring - you have a couple choices, you can either go with the 1981-on setup with the relay, rubberized shift knob and OD button, or the pre-1981 setup with the bakelite shift knob and slide switch that doesn't require a relay
4) speedometer cable - part number 1215546
5) clutch and brake pedal bracket - pre-1983 non-turbo brackets don't have the spring that holds down the pedal to keep pressure on the release bearing - that one is preferred
6) clutch cable with retaining washer, rubber block, and the return spring
7) clutch kit and pilot bearing that replaces the sleeve that the torque converter rides on
8) flywheel
9) 140-106 Bosch aux. air valve - different than the one used on the automatic B21F and B23E cars
10) jumper plug that jumps the connection where the neutral safety switch connects and allows the starter to work
11) I'd consider updating to a 1984 or newer starter, since the holes are threaded - no need to hold an open end wrench on the starter side of the block to tighten the nuts and bolts holding the starter in place. Instead, they thread directly into the starter.

Click to expand...

Any advice on sourcing parts? I've been keeping an eye on local yards but other people keep beating me to the jump.

thesilverbrickpdx said:

Any advice on sourcing parts? I've been keeping an eye on local yards but other people keep beating me to the jump.

Click to expand...

https://forums.turbobricks.com/newthread.php?do=newthread&f=14

Don't forget the snap ring that retains the pilot bearing. Make sure to match up the driveshaft flanges. There are a couple of sizes. Preferably the larger flange.

Lulz m46 is rare after ?86 & pre ?85 cars are few & far between.

The 3 speed does suck but 3 to 4 speed auto is a pretty easy conversion (even easier than full on manual swap & nicer in traffic) & can return decent economy & go down the highway plenty quiet in OD too? People give those away known good the failure rate is so low on AWs If well maintained in cool /Mild weather & not abused?

Stock skinny tires & AW-71L 4.10 gears like the last or the 940 n/a cars got stateside sip fuel & go down the highway quietly.
The shift points kinda suck for ?spirited? driving & are more economy/emissions oriented on those.

No easy way for mech speedo drive on 87+ m47s or 1993+ AWs?if you care about that. Electric speedometer conversion isn?t all that hard depending how you do it/recombine the junkpile? One less thing to leak?

AW-72L used in 16v models has more k-cam B23E appropriate shift points & OD ratio.

Don?t even have to mess around with the pedal box!
And the trans is Aisin/Toyota not some Volvo obscure bad joke with NLA & $$$ parts new if you have to rebuild it.
That said, the m46 works fine to go to the grocery store if cared for & driven gently for the long haul (as much as anything on a car that?s 40+ years old with the ford ?king of NLA? & China crap in the pipeline ?)

The constant contact release hearing lasts longer in my experience actually keeping these things going with tons of miles no fuss for myself and others & i prefer the late pedal box & spring, but use whatever.
I wanna say return spring in the clutch fork/x-member stops 1981+ On most models ??? I forget.

Diesels are a little different (different clutch cable & pedal box) & reinforced trans x-member (grabs 3 holes per side instead of 2 in the diesel position/heavier motor).

Can?t argue on the better Bakelite style -80 shift knob or possible -?79 pre-screwup no-rot wiring (unlike much of the ?80-?87 cheap rot prone wiring), but the slider switch is less seamless/intuitive to use if you loan the car to someone than the ?81+ momentary (if anyone/average joe non car dork/?enthusiast? can/wants to/even remembers or is in practice even drive a manual trans car, regardless of how it?s configured, anymore hahahaha ?)

I?m a lazy American & like the monetary & tolerate it?s?mostly (seldom foibles & failures for me?granted some versions are more reliable than others; the 1990 & 1991 700T M46 cars I had the wiring didn?t rot & was routed better and all that stuff on the momentary setup seemed to behave itself no-fuss) , but there are trade-offs for sure or slight additional complexity.

Usually you want grandmas known history qualified properly serviced pampered 60-150k mile gutless ?79-?82 B21F 244 for an M46 donor.
Don?t come in much like that anymore as a fresh kill T-boned or something good, but nice otherwise?

I swap the firewall panel for the clutch cable with the pedal box, but most people just drill a hole & use a washer or whatever?
Unless it?s a turbo model?then you Shoukd be good to go/already have the manual trans compatible firewall panel?idk about that in Canadian GLT.

You can just open/adjust the idle slide (Aux air valve rather) wider or less that?s of no worthwhile significance auto or manual. They just didn?t want the auto cars to stall coming to a stop in warm weather heat soaked is all, same as how the B20 carbed cars had a delay contraption for the charcoal can line with a vac tank so it wouldn?t quit closing the throttle facing uphill while braking?

I don?t remember EGR on all B23E models?
Pulse air air injection on all Canadian B23E 405 head/k-cam cars is all I remember?
I remember making threaded brass plugs for that & polishing them down in the exhaust ports is all?

Mechanical egr & pulse air of that era & the Canadian basic resonator oxidation catalyst vs. USA market honey comb catalyst & milder cams & Compression is common between USA & Canadian cars those years regardless of brand. I don?t remember the mechanical/vacuum controlled EGR doing much either but OR & WA never had CA NOX requirements or tested for NOX that I remember, regardless, which is mostly what EGR is (was) used for in those days ..