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Old 05-19-2022, 07:06 PM   #1
Marvelous3
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Default 240 alternator bracket alternative

So, crux of the issue is i am currently dealing with the bolt for the mounting bracket for the tension on the alternator is broken off flush with the block. This is the third time this has happened on my red wagon. I?m not really wanting to timesert it again only for the bolt to break off again in a year or two. Grade 8 bolt didnt seem to help.

Doesn?t someone make a bracket that does away with the sliding tensioner?

Or, can i just move the alternator over to the drivers side? I dont need the ac compressor so is there a way the alternator can take its spot? I can move the wiring nbd. Would really like to free up the passenger side of the motor for this holset I?ve been wanting to swap in.
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Old 05-19-2022, 07:17 PM   #2
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You can get metric hardware that is grade 10.9 or even 12.9. Moving the alternator to the low side on the left should just need some spacers to get the pulley alignment right. Should be able to adapt a sliding tensioner to the top mounting area used by the a/c compressor.

I remember you past post about it and Timesert has a Big Sert that is for repairing failed inserts. Is your upper tensioner the version with the long cylinder for the bolt and the bushing? Volvo knew that setup was weak and can break the bolt. The upper tensioner was updated to a shorter cylinder that holds the bushing and they added a solid metal spacer and the whole thing uses a longer bolt. It get a lot less side loading than the original setup.
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Old 05-19-2022, 07:18 PM   #3
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The higher strength 10.9 bolts are just harder to drill out when they break.
Here's my ghetto solution that's still going strong 5 years later:
Take the adjuster arm, and weld some flat bar at a 90 to it (I used some scrap box-tubing I had). This flat bar pushes against the side of the block. It's ghetto, it works very well.

Or just move the alt to the other side.
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Old 05-19-2022, 07:29 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
You can get metric hardware that is grade 10.9 or even 12.9. Moving the alternator to the low side on the left should just need some spacers to get the pulley alignment right. Should be able to adapt a sliding tensioner to the top mounting area used by the a/c compressor.

I remember you past post about it and Timesert has a Big Sert that is for repairing failed inserts. Is your upper tensioner the version with the long cylinder for the bolt and the bushing? Volvo knew that setup was weak and can break the bolt. The upper tensioner was updated to a shorter cylinder that holds the bushing and they added a solid metal spacer and the whole thing uses a longer bolt. It get a lot less side loading than the original setup.
Mine is the cylinder and bushing. I know it?s **** but was hoping the higher grade bolt would hold.

I think if my choices are bigsert or figuring out spacers to mount it where the ac compressor lives I?ll figure out the spacers. I guess i could find some 940 accessory brackets. That would give me a factory ac and alternator on the drivers side and a smaller ps pump on the drivers side. Not sure if that?s easier than some spacers.
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Old 05-19-2022, 07:34 PM   #5
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Here are the part numbers for the updated tensioner. NLA although I was able to buy NOS ones on ebay.
1346365 tensioner arm
1346027 spacer
947760 bolt

You could make your own by cutting the long cylinder shorter
and making your own solid spacer. Let me know I can check measurements on the stuff.
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Old 05-19-2022, 07:40 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
Here are the part numbers for the updated tensioner. NLA although I was able to buy NOS ones on ebay.
1346365 tensioner arm
1346027 spacer
947760 bolt

You could make your own by cutting the long cylinder shorter
and making your own solid spacer. Let me know I can check measurements on the stuff.
What year(s) did that come factory? Can keep and eye out at pull a part or check at voluparts and see what they have.
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Old 05-19-2022, 07:49 PM   #7
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It's a 91 and newer update. Here are the parts for sale on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15491519557...EAAOSw4VViPM4i

Not my auction but it was at least a picture of what parts I mean.
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Old 05-20-2022, 01:11 PM   #8
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You can run the 7/9 style bracket and a single belt on the alt to put it on the drivers side, that's what is on the redblock mail jeep. The belt rubs slightly but will self clearance on the timing cover. Been working great and opens up lots of room for activities!
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Old 05-20-2022, 01:45 PM   #9
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Penta alternator bracket is on drivers side. Just another option like using the better 740 style also.
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Old 05-20-2022, 05:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbabbs View Post
Penta alternator bracket is on drivers side. Just another option like using the better 740 style also.
The penta alternator is also spark arresting in case you freebase on that side while tuning.
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Old 05-21-2022, 09:52 AM   #11
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What does the penta bracket do with the power steering pump and the ac compressor? Assuming it doesnt have provisions for either one because boat.
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Old 05-21-2022, 10:56 AM   #12
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Did you swap alternators? I kept breaking the tensioner bolt after I installed a Denso alt and then ordered belts for a 91+ 240 which are shorter than earlier belts 918mm iirc and original ones are 925mm, stopped breaking bolts after that
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Old 05-21-2022, 01:04 PM   #13
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The old 55Amp B21 Alternator Bracket goes on the back side of the alternator mounting ear, and sits flush to the block, but doesn't include a tensioning bolt (you need to wedge it over by hand and then tighten it down). The depth of the newer Bosch 80A alternator mounting ear is shorter, and I don't know what a Denso has. You might be able to use a B21 bracket on the back side with spacers?

Pics (click for full size) -
Various brackets #3 is B21 Alt, #4 is B230 Alt
55A Alt with both B21 and B230 brackets on mounting ear
80A Alt next to above 55A alt - pulley and ear depths are slightly different


Radtap - for the brackets with the skinny tensioning bolts, you tension the belt, lock it down with the big cross bolt/nut, and then back out the skinny tensioning bolt so that it's not under load. If you leave it fully loaded, it tends to break over time, especially if it's at bigger extensions.
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Old 05-21-2022, 01:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radtap View Post
Did you swap alternators? I kept breaking the tensioner bolt after I installed a Denso alt and then ordered belts for a 91+ 240 which are shorter than earlier belts 918mm iirc and original ones are 925mm, stopped breaking bolts after that
It has a 100amp bosch alternator.
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Old 05-22-2022, 07:41 PM   #15
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On all the newer alternators ie bosch 80, Denso. They all require that upper bracket to move to the front of the alternator. The upper bolt is reversed and fits into a square hole from the back on the upper mounting. I think the easiest fix is to just use the updated upper bracket, spacer and longer mounting bolt. Removes the side loading on that upper bracket.
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Old 05-23-2022, 09:32 AM   #16
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I did this, works very well

https://www.deloreandirectory.com/ma...tor-tensioner/
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