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Old 06-20-2010, 03:44 PM   #1
nitroboie
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Default Oil pan gasket, wet or dry?

Install it wet (RTV) or dry? If wet, red or black?

Also, props to the shipping department at FCP. Seriously, who crams a gasket into a box that's too small? And it's not like they couldn't of flattened a box and shipped it as the only other thing in the box were oil transfer pump seals.

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Old 06-20-2010, 03:45 PM   #2
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Get one that isn't cracked.
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Old 06-20-2010, 03:52 PM   #3
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Leave it to FCP to send a gasket that won't seal. You'll need a new one sir!
I like using the red rtv.
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Old 06-20-2010, 04:30 PM   #4
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FCP should ship you a new one priority on their dime IMO. They are on the boards here, but I'd call them first.
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Old 06-20-2010, 04:35 PM   #5
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I used red RTV on mine, hasn't leaked for over a year since replacing it.
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Old 06-20-2010, 07:15 PM   #6
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i didnt' trust mine dry so i rtv'd both sides

it's almost a year later and still haven't tested it :P
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Old 06-20-2010, 10:11 PM   #7
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I use a super thin layer of RTV on most every gasket. As thin as you can get it.
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:04 AM   #8
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RTV is a great way to ruin an engine. I don't allow the junk on the property. If you think you need the goop, something is wrong with your gasket.
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Old 06-21-2010, 11:15 AM   #9
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I use non-hardening Permatex black gasket maker, light coat on both sides.
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Old 06-21-2010, 11:22 AM   #10
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Dont use any of that junk except where you cut the gasket. Use RTV in that spot only. The rest go dry. Never have issues.
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:21 PM   #11
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have you contacted FCP about a replacement?
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:27 PM   #12
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rtv grey on both sides, haven't had a pan leak with that combo yet. you can fix the tear with masking tape on both sides.
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:39 PM   #13
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Grease.
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:16 PM   #14
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i like the ultra grey......i would stay away from the red but in the high heat places. reason is....red looks like you cobbled it together after is ooses out. so use black on the pan or the grey and you will have a factory look that does not stand out.
im running a crank scraper and there is no gasket. process is....block pan rails.....black rtv.....scraper.....black rtv......pan. about a 1/4 bead. no leaks in like 700 miles.
just make sure all the bolts are tight.
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Old 06-21-2010, 03:09 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by WrenWright View Post
RTV is a great way to ruin an engine. I don't allow the junk on the property. If you think you need the goop, something is wrong with your gasket.
Explain please?
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Old 06-21-2010, 04:03 PM   #16
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UPDATE:

I called FCP this morning and explained the situation to the CSR (Ellison). He told me to email him a picture of the damage and box and he'll take care of it. No later than two minutes I had an email about a new order. He placed an order to send me another on their dime, with a note to packer in the comments:

"PLEASE PACKAGE CAREFULLY. LAST ONE CAME RIPPED FROM TO SMALL OF PACKAGING. "


However, I called him back explaining that I needed it today and that I was going to go to a local store to pick one up. He said no problem and he'll take care of it. He voided the order and refunded the money for the gasket.

The gasket:
I installed the gasket dry using brake cleaner then tightened the bolts in a spiral pattern in about 4 rounds. I remember how hard of a time I had peeling off the RTV that was on there before hand. No leaks.

Oil Pressure Results:
Before with 15w-50:
Cold Idle: ~2.0 bar
Hot Idle: ~0.5 bar (light was no longer a 'flicker' but ON)
Crusing: ~ 3.1 bar

After with 10w-30:
Cold Idle: ~4.0 bar
Hot Idle: ~2.5 bar
Cruising: ~4.3 bar

So yeah... pretty drastic results... I should of done the job a lot sooner.

Last edited by nitroboie; 06-21-2010 at 04:22 PM..
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Old 06-21-2010, 04:45 PM   #17
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You replaced the oil pump seals didn't you?
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Old 06-21-2010, 04:51 PM   #18
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You replaced the oil pump seals didn't you?
Yep.

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Old 06-21-2010, 05:01 PM   #19
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Did you augment the bulge in the tube to help keep them in place? I always add a ring of JB weld to be sure they stay in - had two sets of brand new ones fail in under 500 miles, did not want to drop the oilpan a FOURTH time.
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Old 06-21-2010, 05:13 PM   #20
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Yes sir I did. A washer with the ID of the OD of the pipe would probably be a lot easier/cleaner though. If I had thought about it while it was apart I would of measured it.
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Old 06-21-2010, 06:16 PM   #21
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I like the way you think!
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:22 PM   #22
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Grease.
^^ What he said. ^^
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Old 06-22-2010, 01:10 AM   #23
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Explain please?
That crap forms little balls in the engine when it's exposed to heat/oil and makes its way around and lodges in all sorts of small passages. I've got a 368 Caddy engine in the shop right now that died at less than 50K because of that stuff. Keep it away from your cooling system too.
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Old 06-22-2010, 10:19 AM   #24
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Plus unless you get the one that says O2 safe, regular RTV can kill one.
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Old 06-22-2010, 10:25 PM   #25
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I use this for intake gaskets, water pump gaskets, main seals, oil pan gasket and it works.

Don't go slabbing it on like your going to a gay porn shoot. Just lightly cover surface and gasket. Gasket will stay in place an hold a seal. Even putting a oil seal in dry works most the time. Its torquing the bolts over 8 ft/lbs that makes it leek prematurely. get a good in/lb wrench and you'll be happy for it.

oh also about rtv black silicone, Yes it will ball up in to granny bits and clog stuff up. however this is because people use it in copious amounts. Think about what happens when you go smashing two surfaces together. All that stuff has to go some where. 1/2 shows up on the edge of the gasket you can see the same if not more of a bead is now around the inside. If you see a bead form on the outside...... stop...... take pan off........ get some alcohol and wipe it all off, you used too much. If you use an amount that you can hardly see. IE the gasket looks shiny but you cant see black then your good.

Also the bad thing with rtv is most people don't wait a good day to let it cure before running motor. Then the stuff gets into every thing in your block.

best of luck.
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