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New Valve Springs?

It looks like the 29mm springs, seats and retainers did have different part numbers, 1332136, 1332137 and 1332138 respectively. The part numbers only appear in the '85-'87 240-260 catalog and the 780 catalog. The later catalogs use the part numbers for the smaller springs in the '79-'84 parts catalog, 9135130, 9135132 and 9135131 respectively. As you said, the 3 pieces are available as a service kit.

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Excellent. I really appreciate you looking everything up. I have a cheap-o OHC spring tool kit on the way for next Thursday, so I'll have to get it done then. :)

If they're the 26mm they will *have* to go
 
I use Ford Mustang 4.6 32v springs (I think it's from an early 2000's Cobra or something like that) and 6.2 Ford F150 Raptor retainers. I open up the top of the spring with a Dremel tool to fit the retainer, some guys turn the retainer down to fit the spring. It's not much, like 0.020", and I haven't found that it compromises the spring at all. About 8000 race miles at up to 6840 rpm on the same set.

Now that's super creative. What camshaft are you running on top of those?

Woah, those 4.6 springs are cheap! Would there be any issue with using them on my stock A cam? I mean, it shouldn't wipe the cam lobes being that they're Ford OEM replacement springs, right?

Edit: nevermind, I think I was looking at the 4.6 SOHC springs.
 
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Seat pressure is almost exactly the same as the stock Volvo springs, the rate is also very much in the ballpark. Beehive shape makes the spring control difference, plus the ability to run a smaller (lighter) retainer. I use that retainer because it uses exactly the same lock the stock Volvo does and I didn't want to run into some funny shenanigans with that. Also, they're drop in, but you won't be able to use hushers.

They ARE cheap. It's what happens when you're on a shoestring budget.
 
Seat pressure is almost exactly the same as the stock Volvo springs, the rate is also very much in the ballpark. Beehive shape makes the spring control difference, plus the ability to run a smaller (lighter) retainer. I use that retainer because it uses exactly the same lock the stock Volvo does and I didn't want to run into some funny shenanigans with that. Also, they're drop in, but you won't be able to use hushers.

They ARE cheap. It's what happens when you're on a shoestring budget.

Super cool! Do you happen to have part numbers for the springs? My hushers have been dead for ages. This car is a "fun commuter" so nothing there bothers me.

Only information I can find is for 16v heads. Is yours an 8v or 16v?
 
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8V.

Springs are F6LZ-6513-AB. Retainers AL3Z-6514-A. If you do this, you do have to be cautious to not nick any part of the spring that moves. Also make sure to remove the sharp edge that you'll create when you open it up. Just open it until the retainer sits flush on top of the spring.

Seat pressure on the Ford spring is listed at 65 lbs installed at 1.440", which I think is just a hair shorter than what it ends up installed at in the 530 head. Ford rate is 250lbs/in, just a tick up from the Volvo 230lbs/in. This is all based on the 26mm spring.

Come to think of it, we have a few engines running around with this setup. My daily has been running around with these for probably 75 or 80 thousand miles.
 
8V.

Springs are F6LZ-6513-AB. Retainers AL3Z-6514-A. If you do this, you do have to be cautious to not nick any part of the spring that moves. Also make sure to remove the sharp edge that you'll create when you open it up. Just open it until the retainer sits flush on top of the spring.

Seat pressure on the Ford spring is listed at 65 lbs installed at 1.440", which I think is just a hair shorter than what it ends up installed at in the 530 head. Ford rate is 250lbs/in, just a tick up from the Volvo 230lbs/in. This is all based on the 26mm spring.

Come to think of it, we have a few engines running around with this setup. My daily has been running around with these for probably 75 or 80 thousand miles.

Thanks! Really helpful. Where did you buy your parts? I noticed the spring part number is "Valve Springs" as in plural, so is it $18 for multiple springs or is it just a single spring?

Did you use a little drum sander attachment on your dremel?
 
They come in a pack of 4.

Yes, but not the small one. There's one that JUST fits when you're starting with it. 1/2", maybe?

Super! I'm guessing they do the same with the retainer hats, too?

Alright, I have plenty of those sanding drums! Thank you for all the help on this!
 
I asked a Ford dealer on Ebay how many springs he was selling for $25. He said it was only one...

Tasca parts and similar has it listed for $18, but now I'm unsure, because buying a pack of four direct from Ford is about $118! Any idea on this, shoestring?

I'm wondering if they hiked their price up on these, and I'm just too late.
 
Last time I bought these they were about 4 bucks a piece.

Holy smokes I just confirmed with local Ford store, yeah, MSRP $28 ea.

I'd try to track them down by application, maybe you can get them from PAC or something. Brian Tooley sells some, but the spring rate is more than you would need for a daily.

This is causing me anxiety.

Now what do I do?
 
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Last time I bought these they were about 4 bucks a piece.

Holy smokes I just confirmed with local Ford store, yeah, MSRP $28 ea.

I'd try to track them down by application, maybe you can get them from PAC or something. Brian Tooley sells some, but the spring rate is more than you would need for a daily.

This is causing me anxiety.

Now what do I do?

I'll keep searching for something that doesn't kill my budget.

I may end up going with the Volvo OE 29mm service kit. That's about 80-90 shipped for a set of 8. More expensive, but if theres no other choice..
 
Sort of related question, can old valve springs be tested in any way? If they have the same measured rates as they should have new, could they be OK to reuse?
 
I'd try to track them down by application, maybe you can get them from PAC or something. Brian Tooley sells some, but the spring rate is more than you would need for a daily.

This is causing me anxiety.

Now what do I do?

Pac-1223 is the lowest spec 4v 4.6 spring PAC sells.
 
Sort of related question, can old valve springs be tested in any way? If they have the same measured rates as they should have new, could they be OK to reuse?

There's a spec in the Bentley repair manual that covers this. It's based on the spring free length.

And Yes, reusing springs is fine.
 
I'd try to track them down by application, maybe you can get them from PAC or something. Brian Tooley sells some, but the spring rate is more than you would need for a daily.

This is causing me anxiety.

Now what do I do?

The BTR ones are nice. I've used them on a few 16v heads. Getting a retainer to fit with a 8mm valve stem is possible as well. I just haven't found an off the shelf version that works without modifying the retainer.

I have a cheapish single spring kit that I offer for $150, and they're 90-100lb on the seat and good for 15mm of lift. Includes chromoly retainers and spring seats to properly locate the springs. I can also do Titanium retainers for a bit more.
 
The BTR ones are nice. I've used them on a few 16v heads. Getting a retainer to fit with a 8mm valve stem is possible as well. I just haven't found an off the shelf version that works without modifying the retainer.

I have a cheapish single spring kit that I offer for $150, and they're 90-100lb on the seat and good for 15mm of lift. Includes chromoly retainers and spring seats to properly locate the springs. I can also do Titanium retainers for a bit more.

Is this kit is for the 8v heads? I am still trying to figure out how performance valvetrains work. Volvo 4 bangers are much different than the LS specs I am used to messing around with.

I could be wrong, but your kit sounds a bit excessive for my A cam daily driver.
 
The biggest issue I have heard of with the stock springs is if the car has sat for a while, the spring can get rusty and gets pitting. When you get the car back to life, the spring will fatigue from the pitting. If the free length is fine and there's no rust, those springs will go and go.
 
The biggest issue I have heard of with the stock springs is if the car has sat for a while, the spring can get rusty and gets pitting. When you get the car back to life, the spring will fatigue from the pitting. If the free length is fine and there's no rust, those springs will go and go.

Okay, thank you for the information. I will look them each over.
 
Is this kit is for the 8v heads? I am still trying to figure out how performance valvetrains work. Volvo 4 bangers are much different than the LS specs I am used to messing around with.

I could be wrong, but your kit sounds a bit excessive for my A cam daily driver.

Yeah, it's for the 8v heads. I also have a setup for 16v heads too, but most people don't need it.

Valve spring forces are much lower when you're not moving a pushrod and rocker arm around too :)
In general, as long as the spring isn't close to a natural fequency the same rate is good for an extra few thousand rpms or so. For instance, a spring used in a pushrod motor at 6500 can be used in a 8v redblock to 8k+.
 
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