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Old 04-30-2020, 10:33 AM   #126
vwbusman66
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Originally Posted by Scaramanga View Post
You guys always ruin the nice cars with engine swaps. If the power is too low buy a 245 turbo or something ;) The B20 is not fast I know but going fast in a 145 is no fun anyway. Relax and enjoy the (slow) ride instead.

/Swede
I appreciate the concern and compliments, but this car is neither nice nor original. There's been sketchy/questionable rust repair done in the past on it, it was 1/2 parted out when I saved it from being completely parted, and much of the car is well-worn.

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Man - if you want something to swap an engine in to I'd consider trading my '79 245 to keep this thing all original. I lusted over this back when it was for sale but just couldn't make it work... looks great though!
I appreciate the offer, but I already lost this car once. I'll be homeless before I let it go again. It isn't all original anyway. I had suspicions about the engine, and they were right. As it turns out, it has a B18 in it, which explains the amazon intake manifold. I guess I need to find a B20 now. ****
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Old 04-30-2020, 10:48 AM   #127
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slap that sc on there and suck through a 4 barrel. YEET. I think you'd hit that 130 mark out of the b18 pretty easily in your budget. Since youre an engineering student, maybe look at printing up a carbon nylon manifold adapter. Once you know it fits, you can send the solids to a place like GoProto to have it done out of billet for relatively cheap.

My b18 was a blast at 6-7 psi, then it was quick at 12-14, and it was fooknuts at 18, then ringlands dumped off the pistons.

The b20 I have in there now, was nuts at anything over 16 psi. I've run it at 18-20 for a thousand miles or so until I hit something and took out the manifold. Hopfully the new setup with play nice at the 18-20 psi range. With the SC you could even rig up a simple water meth setup with a windshield washer bottle, pump, hobbs switch, and a couple check valves.point a nozzle down the throat and have it squirt at your desired boost pressure.
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Old 04-30-2020, 11:43 AM   #128
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Originally Posted by Scaramanga View Post
You guys always ruin the nice cars with engine swaps. If the power is too low buy a 245 turbo or something ;) The B20 is not fast I know but going fast in a 145 is no fun anyway. Relax and enjoy the (slow) ride instead.

/Swede
This is such a weird stance to take. 140's aren't special, they're just rare because they were never special enough to save from the junkyard. And I'd argue that going fast in a 140 is pretty fun.
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Old 05-01-2020, 08:51 PM   #129
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For real. This is the wrong forum to be like “hey don’t ruin that car”.
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Old 05-01-2020, 11:04 PM   #130
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Hopefully Sunday I'm gonna grab a '74 B20F complete with all the Kjet parts.
Worse comes to worst, I can re-ring it and throw a set of bearings and a cam at it. It came out of a car that sat for 15 years with ~160k on it.
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Old 05-03-2020, 04:33 AM   #131
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This is such a weird stance to take. 140's aren't special, they're just rare because they were never special enough to save from the junkyard. And I'd argue that going fast in a 140 is pretty fun.
Well, yeah, I was a bit ironic These cars ARE rare, in Sweden at least.
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Old 05-03-2020, 07:32 AM   #132
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Well, yeah, I was a bit ironic These cars ARE rare, in Sweden at least.
They are rare here too. Mostly because people scrapped them for any small issue a long time ago. No one is going to bat an eye when you mention 'engine swap'.
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Old 05-03-2020, 04:55 PM   #133
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They are rare here too. Mostly because people scrapped them for any small issue a long time ago. No one is going to bat an eye when you mention 'engine swap'.
They're the 7/9 of the vintage era.
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Old 05-03-2020, 06:50 PM   #134
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They're the 7/9 of the vintage era.
That's what I've said. Got bought and used as engine donors for cooler cars.
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Old 05-03-2020, 07:02 PM   #135
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That's what I've said. Got bought and used as engine donors for cooler cars.
Yeah, basically. Such is life.
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Old 05-04-2020, 03:07 PM   #136
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Usually wound up donating their longblocks and transmissions to Amazons and 1800s. The rest of the cars were considered too "American" by the old farts who drive the early cars.
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Old 05-04-2020, 03:41 PM   #137
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Sounds familiar...
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Old 05-04-2020, 04:56 PM   #138
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Yuppers. Us 240 guys feel the same about the 7/9 series. Too American looking. So, great engine donors. Even though I've owned a couple myself and found them to be not that bad a car. Had a 764Ti that felt like a wider 244Ti. None of the jiggliness that normally is noticed in the 700 series. Only mods that were done were non-Nivomat shocks and springs, and KYB struts and shocks.
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Old 05-05-2020, 10:15 PM   #139
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So I have my hands on a '74 B20F which is currently torn down to a bare block in the garage. It's getting a re-ring, hone, new bearings, and then going back together. While it's apart I'll clean up the ports on the head.

The question is when I go turbo, should I go with my P1800 m410 or the T5 setup out of the 142. The m410 will obviously be bolt in, but I don't know how it'll feel about 200hp.
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Old 05-07-2020, 03:28 AM   #140
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Originally Posted by vwbusman66 View Post
So I have my hands on a '74 B20F which is currently torn down to a bare block in the garage. It's getting a re-ring, hone, new bearings, and then going back together. While it's apart I'll clean up the ports on the head.

The question is when I go turbo, should I go with my P1800 m410 or the T5 setup out of the 142. The m410 will obviously be bolt in, but I don't know how it'll feel about 200hp.
Great I´d go with the m410. Not sure if it will manage 200hp but if you drive it like normal people it probably will.
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Old 05-07-2020, 03:20 PM   #141
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My old M41 held up fine behind my B23ft for a while. It still worked when I put the T5 in. I did a few dumb burnouts in it, too. For scientific purposes.
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Old 05-07-2020, 04:59 PM   #142
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Id say that it wont last super long at 200, and the m410 is a pretty rare trans to destroy... my m41 was starting to get gravel-y at 7psi on the b18 wornout setup. Then it sounded like it was going to explode in 1st and 2nd with the b20 at 12psi... went to the t5, and it has been less noisy even at 22psi on the b20. I did use the billet cluster support and a new gearset/mainshaft. That hasnt been as great as I thought, so I need to get it on a dyno to figure out TQ #s for this setup before I make the transmission decision again. I did find that G-Force doesnt really offer the old t5 dog box kits, but they have some wiggle room to be swayed into making another run of straight cut 5 dog gear sets.
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Old 05-08-2020, 09:48 AM   #143
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I agree. There's no sense in destroying a rare m410 just to run it a couple of months then have to do all the swap work anyway. I would sell it while its still in good condition and use those funds to do the t5 swap. You've already done it before, so shouldn't be a problem. Mine as well do it once and not have to worry about it. Plus let some other vintage volvo enthusiast enjoy the rare upgrade parts.

Also I started to put together a b20 supercharger build as well, but have been too busy/distracted to finish it recently. Looking forward to seeing what direction you go with this.
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Old 05-13-2020, 08:03 PM   #144
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The supercharger isn't happening as the B20F I picked up needs a ton of machine work.

I ordered a set of overload rear springs from VP Autoparts (#683290, Lesjofors brand) in April as it was obvious the ones on the car were worn out. I finally motivated myself enough today to actually get them along with KYB Gas-A-Just shocks installed. The uninstalled height is pretty much the same between the new and original springs (maybe 1/2" difference), however, the steel used in the new springs is maybe 33% thicker than the Volvo ones. You can see the difference below. Up front, I still have the original springs along with Bilstein HD's. Long term, I'm going to lower the whole car some (1-1.5"), but would like to keep a stiff spring in the rear to allow for heavy loads. The before and after pictures both have roughly the same weight in the rear end (a set of steelies/tires, sway bar, tools, misc crap in the rear seat).





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Old 05-14-2020, 02:38 AM   #145
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Nice! mine is a bit raised in the front also.



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Old 05-14-2020, 05:23 PM   #146
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You guys do realize that the front wheel openings are larger than the rear ones, just like on a 240, right?
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Old 05-16-2020, 11:18 PM   #147
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You guys do realize that the front wheel openings are larger than the rear ones, just like on a 240, right?
May have forgotten that slight detail.
All the more reason to drop the front a hair.
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Old 05-17-2020, 11:22 PM   #148
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Over the last week and a half, I acquired some good parts for the car that have filled most of what I was missing. He campaigned an SCCA ITB 142 for about 25 years and built a bunch of spare engines that he ended up never actually running in the car. He's basically liquidating his whole collection because he doesn't race anymore.

I bought one of the engines with the following specs:
- 6 bolt B20 bored 40 over (2.032L) with balanced rotating assembly, oil pump drive reinforcing ring, updated front and rear main seals
- Ported/polished B20F head skimmed to 3.365" for roughly 9.5:1 SCR, hardened steel seats, bronze valve guides
- Isky VV171 cam, IPD "high-rev" valvetrain with double springs, lightened lifters, 5/16 pushrods, matched rockers, steel timing set

I also picked up an excellent condition M41 with cross member and driveshaft and some other fun parts. I was able to also get an MSD 6AL box and a vintage rusty IPD 4-1 header that I'll use as a template to make my own. I just ordered some miscellaneous gaskets, a speedo cable, and a clutch so I can hopefully swap the engine this week and start driving it.
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Old 05-18-2020, 03:18 AM   #149
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Nice! Get a thinner headgasket to up the compression some more if it’s apart. Shoot for .030” piston to head surface gap. Also, don’t expect it to make more than 120-130whp, depending on what you do for fuel And air delivery... You can also run a rusty header, just clean up the mating surface! Hah
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Old 05-18-2020, 10:22 AM   #150
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Nice! Get a thinner headgasket to up the compression some more if it’s apart. Shoot for .030” piston to head surface gap. Also, don’t expect it to make more than 120-130whp, depending on what you do for fuel And air delivery... You can also run a rusty header, just clean up the mating surface! Hah
I'm about 90% certain he's running a B/E (thin) head gasket on this. I bought it completely assembled. That's about the power I was looking to make- more than stock, and far more than a mystery B18. Long term, I am still going to rebuild that B20F for boost as I still want to experiment with it.

I get some pictures of the header. The surface rust isn't the problem, it's the gaping holes in the bottom of the primaries.
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