93 Volvo 240 b230ft/T5 build

Hey all! I?m officially apart of turbobricks! I?ve scrolled around the forums for
Months now, googling and researching. I was in debate, on either a B230f + T with T5 swap or a B230ft with T5 swap. (t5 swap coming after motor). Originally, I planned to square in the suspension first. What?s left, is coilovers, adjustable sway bar end links (BNE has the order, just waiting on them to get the bearings needed), BNE trailing arm bushings, and the adjustable torque rods by BNE. It?s already got the IPD sway bars, BNE adjustable pan hard bar, it?s on cut springs (previous owners doing), and bilsteins all around. I decided to post pone the rest of the suspension temporarily, due to a solid deal on a 91 740 turbo that runs and drives for $1200! (it?s been impossible to source to a FT block or full swap here in Oregon, still need to meet the local Volvo club however. Been told those guys have spare parts up the wazoo) So that?s the plan as of now, get the 740 turbo donor car. Thankfully the owners holding it for me, and wants another Volvo enthusiast to own it. Otherwise, it?d be a B230f + T. So general run down; and I know there?s loads of info on these builds all over. But w, people coming and going from the site. Or better parts, tunes, etc. I figured this would be the most direct way to go about it if I have questions. This is my parts list as of now, if you have opinions/advice/knowledge to share. I?m all ears.

B230ft Swap/Upgrades:
My NA already ready has Lh2.4, ECU # 0 986 262 713. Haven?t checked for EZK yet. I?ve read to use the 740 turbo computers though, my question is, since it?s an automatic. Will that be okay? I have a manual m47, and am doing the T5 swap shortly after this. Which, does anyone else think it?d be easier to swap in the b230ft and T5 already mated? Or separate? I have one sourced locally, just need to pull it.

* Volvo 740/940 turbo ecu/ekz/ecm from donor car. (Coming from a 91 740 turbo wagon)
* Extended MAF connection
* Block mounted distributor/intermediate shaft from my na b230
* Isuzu NPR intercooler upgrade
* 3in down pipe/exhaust. Hood dump?
* High impedance injectors, other options as well. Blue part number: 0280155830 - 33.3 lbs/hr - 350 cc/min - 20? *SPLIT BEAM* spray pattern with 12ohm resistance. Red part number: 0280155759 - 30 lbs/hr - 315.3 cc/min - 25? cone spray pattern with 15.95ohm resistance. Site: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=301784
* Upgraded rods/pistons (now or later, undecided. Ultimately for motor life span and conditioning)
* @Redblockpowered: stage 1 chip or better
* IPD Billet HD Turbo cam
* Cometic head gasket
* Freshened up head/potential porting
* Boost controller (Turbosmart), boost, wide band, and oil pressure gauges.
* Potential turbo rebuild, or minor upgrade. (Brand new t3 maxspeedingrods turbo is for sale locally for $100, unsure of turbo company quality though)

How are the stock head studs on the b230ft?

Will the stock Volvo 740 turbo manifold work? Or do I need to grab a 90+, or different manifold? If the donor car doesn?t have a +90.
Im going to get it on the 28th.

If I missed anything I need, let me know! I appreciate everything everyone has shared in prior threads. I?m stoked to get this ball rolling!

Here’s some photos, and bit of a history on my car.
I had zero intention of buying it honestly, it wasn’t until I really saw it. That I fell for the ugly little thing. Guy I bought it from just gave up on it before he could even change the wheel color. Drove great, rides alright with the cut springs, and well. It’s fun. Previous previous owner and I got in touch though, because he had to write me a bill of sale. The seller I met, never did any of that stuff. Thankful for that however, because now me and the previous owner who wrote me a bill of sale, so I could title transfer. Is now a good buddy of mine. Haha
https://app.photobucket.com/u/McBates78/p/2ad21019-afcd-43c1-97a5-75f6fc607bc8
https://app.photobucket.com/u/McBates78/p/f3e43c98-2353-4133-86e5-62696adb55c6
https://app.photobucket.com/u/McBates78/p/43e3099e-a254-4ccf-9c47-2adfc74adc93
https://app.photobucket.com/u/McBates78/p/d6db759d-9067-4ef7-8869-c87a10dbff41

Update! I got the 740 turbo! Drove up to Portland, and drove it on home. And it did great, i
Took a leap of faith buying it without seeing it first. Luckily the seller was honest, almost to honest.

https://app.photobucket.com/u/McBates78/p/01b33312-d348-4c1e-b4c2-9dd1bcaf0bb7

I got my new sway bar end links, thanks to BNE or Kaplhenke racing!
Got some new, un crusty blinkers too!

https://app.photobucket.com/u/McBates78/p/cdd36a07-a451-4d20-9ea3-0ee9b9a6a400

https://app.photobucket.com/u/McBates78/p/35d1fa77-188e-4fe5-8aa9-22b04965c750

My dad and I were talking about forged rods, and brought up shot peening the stock rods to reinforce them. Has anyone done this with stock rods and had good results?

The issue with the stock rods is that they are heavier than the aftermarket maxspeeding rods. So while the stock rods will take the power they aren't adding to the performance of the engine. Shot peeing works very well to strengthen stock rods and it would be a good process if you don't want to spend the money on the aftermarket ones. Personally, I would prefer to save the weight if you can.

dl242gt said:

The issue with the stock rods is that they are heavier than the aftermarket maxspeeding rods. So while the stock rods will take the power they aren't adding to the performance of the engine. Shot peeing works very well to strengthen stock rods and it would be a good process if you don't want to spend the money on the aftermarket ones. Personally, I would prefer to save the weight if you can.

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Thanks man! I really appreciate your input. I?ve got a lot of questions, regarding small odds and ends like that. I?m rebuilding the motor, so I figured I might as well throw the maxspeedingrods and pistons in. It?s only going to help me out anyways!

Fixed those photos that didn’t work! Sorry!

One other small question, since I’ll be using my NA harness. I will need to use high impedance injectors, due to using the NA harness without the resistors. Right? Well, unless I found the wrong info. I was right, high impedence is what I want.

Yes, you can use V70 turbo injectors. They are high impedance.

dl242gt said:

Yes, you can use V70 turbo injectors. They are high impedance.

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Right on! Thought so.
Got my chips ordered. My dad pulled the trigger on them, because he liked that the seller had a list of recommended parts for this tune. From redblocktuning. Which leaves me with other questions.. I had my injectors picked out, realistically I’m shooting for at least 250-300hp. Chips good for 300hp. Recommendation is 465cc injectors.. but with the ones I’ve picked out. Can those reach 300hp? Or should I just run the recommendation. I don’t want to dump to much fuel, etc.. just when you think “I got this figured out, I’m onto the next thing”

Does anyone know if I’ll have any issues running the 100lb yoshifab springs with the ipd turbo cam?

BBates said:

Does anyone know if I?ll have any issues running the 100lb yoshifab springs with the ipd turbo cam?

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It will be totally fine.

culberro said:

It will be totally fine.

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Thank you! I was hesitant on ordering some parts until I knew for certain.

Update: I ordered a chipped ezk
Got my motor stand, $25 locally. Left me with an extra $50 towards parts.

Update to this post: Ended up getting a black box chippable EZK, might actually take up the reins soon enough. To make these lil baddies. I?ve got 2 EZKs that need chipping, so why not? Might as well make my non chippable gold box, chippable..

And I’m iso of a 19t turbo for a fair price. I nearly bought a cheapy ebay one, but I can’t allow the weak point of my build to be a turbo.. that’s where all the fun is supposed to be had. Gonna make a thread on the wanted ads too!

Edit/Update: Found a 19t, 3in downpipe, and some green giant injectors for $375. Huge thanks to the people of turbobricks, just saved me about $200-$300 bucks.

Just a small update, not much happening at the moment. Other than some rear inner fender work. Got rid of all the rubbing and it’s been so nice.

So after some thought, and looking at my goals, drive train, etc. I’ve decided to reassess my build. And I’m happy i did. I was trying to bite off more than my drive line could chew for what I’d like to use the car for. So I scaled it down a bit. So I’m going to call it my own personal. Stage 1.5. Lol. It’s my look at stage 1, along with getting prepared for stage 2.

Ecu: 9xx ecu, have 951. Could work, but causes “issues” some said. Need a turbo 9xx ecu
Ezk: Have black box ezk, with chip able daughter board.
Chip/sets: Stage 1 fuel/EZK chips. Have stage 2 on stand by.
Internals/Bottom end: Forged rods/pistons. Why - I want to be prepared for stage 2, once I get the T5 trans & 8.8 axle. And “endurance” reasons.
Cyl. Head: IPD cam/gear, or similar. Cometic head gasket. I’d love to do yoshifab beehive springs. But that’ll come later with porting. Going with new oem valve springs, etc.
Exhaust/DP: 2.5in DP or 3in DP, opinions? 3in straight pipe, to either flow master, or similar.
Friend has an apexi n1 he said we could throw on, don’t know how I feel about that though.
Turbo/IC pipe: rebuilt 13c, eBay kits any good? New kinugawa CBV/waste gate. Braided lines/AN fittings. Want to remove hard line from radiator. Fitting size? 2.5in exhaust pipe for IC. (It’s easier to weld on) I have a 19t, just don’t know how it’ll agree with these injectors, etc.
Injectors: Red #0280155759 Flow rates @ 43.5 psi / 3 bar
31.4 lb per hour
237 G per min. (N-Heptane)
330 cc per min
15.95 Ohm resistance
Spark plugs - NGK BPR7ES
Why - want to run high impedance injectors on the NA harness. I’m following the guidelines of some +t builds for simplicity. Have OEM green turbo injectors, and resistor pack on donor car just incase. Sending both for cleaning. Green giants, on stand by.
Amm/MAF: 016, and have 012 on standby. 3in intake/cone filter. Plus, extended maf/Amm connector.
Cooling system: NPR intercooler, bigger radiator from 92+ 940 n/a. If running 951 ecu, I’ll need a manual 2 speed electric fan switch.
Oil cooling: Can run oem oil cooler, or aftermarket alum oil cooler and relocation, braided lines. Location - behind grill maybe? 30 row I was loaned to see how it works. To big a cooler?
Gauges/Controllers: •Turbo smart manual boost controller/gauge. AEM Wideband, Or? Jegs Oil pressure gauge, or? And digital voltage gauge. Swap overs: block mounted distributor/intermediate shaft from my na b230
Clutch/Trans: M47, Sachs K70029-02
Driveline/mounts: Either ensure the 2 piece is functional 110% or go to a solid piece shaft. Ensure trans crossmember bolts are straight, maybe go up one bolt size *the rubber grommets ripped from prior owner not putting in washers. Little more rigid mounts possibly?


If anyone has suggestions, I’m all ears. Or corrections. I’m going to start some online tuning classes as well. I’d really love to be able to tune, and burn chips. And do it in a variety of ways to help contribute. So far the plan is to use ostrich/tunerpro. And they have a 2burn program so I can share the tune! From my understanding, that’d be the most user friendly. And good for starting. Until I need a stand alone.

Oh, and what is anyone’s opinion on td04 13c rebuild kits off eBay? I’ve seen a few decent looking ones.

Have an update, I’ll have to get back to that so stand by!
I do have a question, since swapping in a B230ft. And using an NA harness, all lh2.4. How necessary is it to wire in, and use the ATS, and the cold start injector.. how would I wire it in if so? And what happens if I don’t? I didn’t want to start a thread on this, when I can hopefully figure it out here. I’ve been looking on all the knowledge I can find for this. I have a turbo harness, I was just planning on using the NA one and treating it partly like a + T.

Thanks to any who may know or can help.

BBates said:

Oh, and what is anyone’s opinion on td04 13c rebuild kits off eBay? I’ve seen a few decent looking ones.

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This one on Amazon has posts indicating it was used with Volvo/ Mitsubishi 13c

I'd use that as reference & look on eBay - should be available for less for name brand versions. I used Kinugawa in the past (15+ years ago), no idea if quality is still there on Kinugawa.

If you are rebuilding this yourself, read this step by step instruction guide (in my dropbox) - I got it about 15 years ago - it covers everything you need to be aware of.

BBates said:

Have an update, I’ll have to get back to that so stand by!
I do have a question, since swapping in a B230ft. And using an NA harness, all lh2.4. How necessary is it to wire in, and use the ATS, and the cold start injector.. how would I wire it in if so? And what happens if I don’t? I didn’t want to start a thread on this, when I can hopefully figure it out here. I’ve been looking on all the knowledge I can find for this. I have a turbo harness, I was just planning on using the NA one and treating it partly like a + T.

Thanks to any who may know or can help.

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If you are adding the CSV wiring for the B230FT from the 740 to the 240 harness, just follow the wiring diagram for the MY 740 - that will give you the ECU pin locations.

Example - you can see the CSV (#188) is wired into the injector feed wiring - the ground leg is the control - in this diagram it goes to pin 32 - this might be for my Regina setup, I didn't label the diagram. You need to make sure you are looking at an LH2.4 diagram is all



Only Regina/Rex cars have an Air Intake Temperature Sensor (#185) (is that what you are referring to as ATS?) - that, coupled with the MAP (#440), take the place of the MAF used on LH2.4, which incorporates the air temp, so no separate sensor for that on LH2.4

No worries about cold start valve. Just leave it disconnected. The turbo ecu provides fuel enrichment on cold starts.

white855T said:

No worries about cold start valve. Just leave it disconnected. The turbo ecu provides fuel enrichment on cold starts.

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Thank you for the input!
I was wondering about how the car would handle cold starts without it.
When does the cold start valve become necessary ?
And man, the red top injectors cleaned up nicely! Thank you again.

lookforjoe said:

This one on Amazon has posts indicating it was used with Volvo/ Mitsubishi 13c

I'd use that as reference & look on eBay - should be available for less for name brand versions. I used Kinugawa in the past (15+ years ago), no idea if quality is still there on Kinugawa.

If you are rebuilding this yourself, read this step by step instruction guide (in my dropbox) - I got it about 15 years ago - it covers everything you need to be aware of.

Click to expand...

I am rebuilding it myself, I got a real genuine Mitsubishi rebuild kit! I found someone to potentially rebalance the 13c for $60 ish. Just need to send in the rotor assembly pretty much.

Even though it?s a Regina chart, it gives me a baseline idea. So I?m thankful for that. I?ll look into it more, and see how things go. This is a knowledge I?d like to know for that ?just incase? situation.