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Old 06-01-2021, 12:53 PM   #51
amishmafia00
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Has anyone else had issues with the Deeworks adapter not lining up correctly with an M46 bellhousing?
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Old 06-01-2021, 04:32 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by amishmafia00 View Post
Has anyone else had issues with the Deeworks adapter not lining up correctly with an M46 bellhousing?
I just used it and had no issue at all.

Is it possible you got the wrong adaptor or Bellhousing? Here are some images of mine if you want reference







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Old 06-02-2021, 10:30 AM   #53
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Is than an M46 also? do you know what your casting number is?


I don't see any similar adapters on the site. My bellhousing has a sticker on it that says

M46 NR 1208230
Fabr NR 113?28 (can't definitively read the ? digit)


Casting number is 1023531
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Old 06-02-2021, 10:52 AM   #54
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Yeah it's an m46 bellhousing

Unfortunately I don't have access to check the casting number at the moment, nor have I been able to find images of it. But here are some images of the m46 trans it came off of if that is any help.



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Old 06-02-2021, 11:19 AM   #55
amishmafia00
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I just noticed that I can turn the bellhousing on the adapter to a point where the holes are all off by the same amount in the same direction. Like the zero point was off for that operation. I was trying to post pictures but not having much luck






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Old 06-02-2021, 11:42 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by amishmafia00 View Post






Hard to tell, but comparing your images to mine, looks like you might have a slightly different bellhousing, possibly an m47? But I really don't know
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Old 06-02-2021, 11:49 AM   #57
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those pictures were before I realized they were all off the same amount. In that position I am able to put one bolt in. The sticker says M46, Even if it were an M47 it's supposed to work. I contacted Deeworks.
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Old 06-02-2021, 11:49 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amishmafia00 View Post
I just noticed that I can turn the bellhousing on the adapter to a point where the holes are all off by the same amount in the same direction. Like the zero point was off for that operation. I was trying to post pictures but not having much luck

Very possible.
I think Deeworks Cuts the center hole to order based on the type of cd trans you have
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Old 06-16-2021, 02:44 PM   #59
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I can confirm the original clutch i ran with the setup was to small. it worked, and got me going, but it unevenly wore the flywheel and pressure plate.
it was the cheapest way to get the car going and it does work, its just not ideal.
it lasted me long enough to save the nearly $2000 Nzd i needed for the better setup.
The cheaper alternative that i was going to get was the clutch upgrade that Yoshifab sells, the main reason i diddnt was so in future i can buy shelf stuff for my car locally.
I’m currently going through this swap myself and am considering different clutch options. When he said that the 235 mm kit would allow him to use off the shelf options in the future, what options are he talking about? I don’t know of any stock nissans that use a 235 mm clutch and pressure plate. Does the 250 mm stock VQ35DE clutch fit on the yoshifab flywheel?
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Old 06-18-2021, 06:34 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by TheLoganZilla View Post
I’m currently going through this swap myself and am considering different clutch options. When he said that the 235 mm kit would allow him to use off the shelf options in the future, what options are he talking about? I don’t know of any stock nissans that use a 235 mm clutch and pressure plate. Does the 250 mm stock VQ35DE clutch fit on the yoshifab flywheel?
He mentioned to me a toyota truck clutch.
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Old 06-18-2021, 10:35 AM   #61
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He mentioned to me a toyota truck clutch.
That’s interesting, because I believe that while Toyota pickup truck clutches are 235 mm, Toyotas use a 21 tooth input spline. The Nissan trans has a 24 tooth spline. I may be missing something, or the Australian pickup is different from the American one.
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Old 11-02-2021, 06:02 AM   #62
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Default Shifter location

How far forward or back is the shifter. I’m looking at that collins shifter in the thread description just wondering how much modifications were needed for it to fit. Also if the adapter plate was in the way of the clutch and flywheel.
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Old 11-02-2021, 01:15 PM   #63
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How far forward or back is the shifter. I’m looking at that collins shifter in the thread description just wondering how much modifications were needed for it to fit. Also if the adapter plate was in the way of the clutch and flywheel.
Volvo 745:

Here is a picture looking up:


and here is a picture looking down:


I don't think the Collins shifter has a reverse lockout. The reverse lockout also makes it easier to find 5th. My first shifter did not have a lockout and 5th was a pain.
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Old 11-06-2021, 09:14 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by rb92673 View Post
Volvo 745:

Here is a picture looking up:


and here is a picture looking down:


I don't think the Collins shifter has a reverse lockout. The reverse lockout also makes it easier to find 5th. My first shifter did not have a lockout and 5th was a pain.
For a 740 I would get the SerialNine shifter. That's what bought.

https://www.serialnine.com/product-p...ter-relocation
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Old 11-21-2021, 03:13 PM   #65
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Default Questions re Dynamic Damper +

For those that ae running a completed swap several questions:

The trans that i got came with what Nissan refers to as the Dynamic Damper, a bunch of weights mounted at the back end of the trans. Have you left it on or taken it off will no ill effects ?? I am asking because I'm making a new trans cover and should I leave room for it?

What sensors that are on the trans have you been able to use ?
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Old 01-06-2022, 05:26 PM   #66
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Default Pictures i should have uploaded ages ago

Howdy, so been off the line for a good while now, on the bright side i figured out imgur so ill upload the photos of the brace here.

update on my build, i had clutch issues, and alot of them, i replaced every part of the fluid system only to find out it was the pressure plate that had failed in a weird way giving me the feeling of a leaking slave.
im unsure as to why this happened, though the guy who ended up diagnosing it said it was likely either just a faulty pressure plate which does happen sometimes, or the wrong throwout bearing was used which destroyed the face of the pressure plate, one face needs to be curved the other flat on the two mating faces.
ill check when i get it all apart in the next few weeks.

sorry for the **** drawing, i was pretty early into my apprenticeship when i did it. if i remember ill draw it up properly on fusion 360 and post a link.

https://imgur.com/EeIhMpH
https://imgur.com/UfnCZMY
https://imgur.com/G5bNlvU
https://imgur.com/eZVIIxg
https://imgur.com/vo6bw6y
https://imgur.com/IO2RzQk











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Last edited by SEslayer; 01-06-2022 at 05:29 PM.. Reason: pictures didn't upload? it still wont work fml
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Old 02-12-2022, 04:01 PM   #67
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In trying to avoid starting a semi-redundant thread, this looks like a good place to piggyback. I'm wondering if there is a tried & true clutch master cylinder for use with the CD009. I'm getting back into the groove of my 2JZGTE 940 (with a CD009 6-speed) build after it took a backseat for a few years. I spent some time today trying to get a clutch pedal but it just doesn't seem to move enough fluid (even after bleeding out all the air). Also on the 740 master cylinder, there is no adjustment for the U-connector to the clutch pedal and there is some "dead" area up top. It looks like both the 740 and 260 use a 3/4" bore so I don't know that there is any advantage to changing it.
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Old 02-12-2022, 11:56 PM   #68
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Yeah stock stuff works with the Volvo bell housing. If you’re using a 2J you might need to check on a Toyota forums as they might have an answer. Probably need to shim throw out bearing. Can test engagement by having car in the air and turning the wheels in gear to ensure it disengages when clutch is depressed.
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Old 02-13-2022, 10:39 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEslayer View Post
Yeah stock stuff works with the Volvo bell housing. If you’re using a 2J you might need to check on a Toyota forums as they might have an answer. Probably need to shim throw out bearing. Can test engagement by having car in the air and turning the wheels in gear to ensure it disengages when clutch is depressed.
I'd rather fix it with a master cylinder (if it's truly an issue) because I'm not pulling the engine/trans again to shim anything. Simpler solution is MC. I don't really want to test this in the air because the 2JZ is susceptible to crankwalk when disengaging the clutch on a parked engine.
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