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Old 11-14-2008, 06:39 PM   #51
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Because I don't really know what I'm talking about...
I LOL'd
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Because the over-shoulder straps get all tangled-up in the extra links.
Well actually, it's because there's more room for movement & angles that can allow things to bend & break. You could definitely set something up to work, but the regulations are to stop the cheapskates from killing themselves.
thanks.. I know dragging and cornering are 2 different world, but i thought IRS is better.. bc it is more efficient or something
mehh I stick with cornering.. ohh wait... I have teh FWD, i have teh fail.. lol

edit: and doesn't even have IRS
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Old 11-14-2008, 06:56 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Forg View Post
Because I don't really know what I'm talking about, Ford fitted 9" diffs to cars that had 260hp from the factory (when the 200hp versions had 8.8" ones) ... and fitting the 8.8" smells a bit like a shortcut...
This is also the same company that fitted 7 litre engines when 3 litre ones would've done. American vehicles have historically been massively over- engineered. How do you think they produced these axles in the first place?
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Old 11-14-2008, 06:58 PM   #53
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Some of the corvette folks are going with longer swing arms which essentially reproduce the drag traction a good 4link solid axle has without the issue of torque lifting the right rear wheel slightly. It is however a much more complicated system than a simple 4link on a solid axle. 8.8 with upgraded axles would be my suggestion - when you start braking that we can then all kneel to your vast hp

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Old 11-14-2008, 07:07 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Forg View Post
Because I don't really know what I'm talking about, Ford fitted 9" diffs to cars that had 260hp from the factory (when the 200hp versions had 8.8" ones) ... and fitting the 8.8" smells a bit like a shortcut & every shortcut I've taken in Big Red Car has cost me 2x as much as just doing it properly in the first place.


Because the over-shoulder straps get all tangled-up in the extra links.
Well actually, it's because there's more room for movement & angles that can allow things to bend & break. You could definitely set something up to work, but the regulations are to stop the cheapskates from killing themselves.
Hehe. I like that over-shoulder straps comment.
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Old 11-14-2008, 07:15 PM   #55
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This is also the same company that fitted 7 litre engines when 3 litre ones would've done. American vehicles have historically been massively over- engineered. How do you think they produced these axles in the first place?
S'not quite the same though; the 7L engine had a lot of marketing-clout, whereas barely a poofteenth of a percentage of the buying populace would've known anything about differentials.
Ford Australia weren't exactly "over engineerers" either, they did things like putting 250ci 6cyl Falcon engines into Mk3-Mk5 Cortinas such that the front ends would bend while the cars were still in warranty if you went for the optional factory aircon system ...
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Old 11-14-2008, 07:23 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by Forg View Post
S'not quite the same though; the 7L engine had a lot of marketing-clout, whereas barely a poofteenth of a percentage of the buying populace would've known anything about differentials.
Ford Australia weren't exactly "over engineerers" either, they did things like putting 250ci 6cyl Falcon engines into Mk3-Mk5 Cortinas such that the front ends would bend while the cars were still in warranty if you went for the optional factory aircon system ...
Ford America is a totally different animal to Ford ROW. How else can I explain it?

Ok then, let's put it this way: The Ford 8.8" axle is proven to be able to take the ultimate punishment of drag launches from big, heavy 9 second doorslammers.

What else would you like? There's hardly an excess of nine second Volvos here, is there (and I'm sure you could find some in the eights if you researched it)? The 9" actually takes a hell of a lot of modifications before it's capable of handling big horsepower without killing the gears on a regular basis. Also, as has just been revealed on here, the 9" robs hp- something we hardly have an excess off here on TB!
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Old 11-14-2008, 07:29 PM   #57
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I don't think he's using a Volvo engine of any sort if he's aiming in the 10's with a 240 ... not on the cheap, anyhoo.
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Old 11-14-2008, 08:00 PM   #58
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Hehe. The powerplant selection is underway. I have a couple years to get the chassis and body ready before I need a completed engine. Its top secret for now. All that I want to say is that is that the car will be way under 3000lbs. And the engine will make more power than the 488whp that my current 16v makes. And there could be a transbrake transmission involved if it really becomes a pure drag car. Probably not in the first iteration though. Or at least had hard launching stickshift. Thats rough on axles too.

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I don't think he's using a Volvo engine of any sort if he's aiming in the 10's with a 240 ... not on the cheap, anyhoo.
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Old 11-14-2008, 08:46 PM   #59
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Turbo b280?
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Old 11-15-2008, 04:47 AM   #60
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Rotary?
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Old 11-15-2008, 05:42 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by Captain Bondo View Post
Nice work on the failtastic post. The 8.8 axle tubes on the late explorer diffs are 3.25"x0.25" -that would eat a dana 30 axle tube as a light snack in the mid afternoon.


I'll take 31 splines, clutch type posi, good aftermarket, 4x4.5 bolt pattern for the price of a junkyard pull.
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the EARLY tubes were thin
and MAYBE some of US live in PLACES where the EXPLORER WASN'T sold
so maybe some of us live where the cost of a BAD 9.0 or 8.8 axle is NORTH of $1000!

name someone who has broken the volvo tubes
name someone with a volvo powerplant who is putting down more than 700Ft-lbs

FIDEL did the ****ing research and found not so surprisingly volvo used cheap steel in the axles
so he went to a guy who builds axles for funny cars and said build me axles that wont break with 1000HP
and the guy said "not a problem"

ohh
and he can also supply you with 31 spline axles to use in the volvo housing if your still so hell bent on using them

why the **** are you so hell bent on all this complication for replacing the ****ing axle when you can just replace the bits that break easily
(shafts & diff)

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Old 11-15-2008, 06:09 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Lord Tentacle View Post
the EARLY tubes were thin
and MAYBE some of US live in PLACES where the EXPLORER WASN'T sold
so maybe some of us live where the cost of a BAD 9.0 or 8.8 axle is NORTH of $1000!

name someone who has broken the volvo tubes
name someone with a volvo powerplant who is putting down more than 700Ft-lbs
If you look properly, you can buy old Ford Fairlanes for under $500 and grab a decent 351, C4, and 9" out of them.

Are spools available for the Volvo/Dana 30 diffs? The reason I ask is that everyone seems to break components in the centres, not the axles themselves.
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Old 11-15-2008, 06:15 AM   #63
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If you look properly, you can buy old Ford Fairlanes for under $500 and grab a decent 351, C4, and 9" out of them.

Are spools available for the Volvo/Dana 30 diffs? The reason I ask is that everyone seems to break components in the centres, not the axles themselves.
i was comparing apples to apples in JY trip vs JY trip....

Poik, myself, and john lane have all twisted the ends off the axles
just to give 3 examples off the top of my head
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Old 11-15-2008, 03:38 PM   #64
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I think the GM 10 bolt rear ends are a good choice for a Volvo with a powerful engine. I have run them in street/strip cars and have never had a failure of any kind. If you are making enough torque or running big slicks, just install unbreakable axles. I like those made by Summers Bros. I haven't seen an ad for them, so they may have been bought out, but there are many others who make comparable axles.

The 10 bolt is not as heavy as the Ford 9" and there is less parasitic loss. Limited slip or locker differentials are cheap and plentiful.
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Old 11-15-2008, 04:20 PM   #65
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ElPiloto, you must be talking about the 8.5" 10 bolt, and not the 7.5" 10 bolt. I thought it would be important to differentiate.
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Old 11-15-2008, 07:05 PM   #66
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That's exactly right. By the way, the Buick Grand Nationals used these rear axles. They were handling over 600 horsepower and BIG slicks without breaking.
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Old 11-15-2008, 07:44 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by ElPiloto View Post
I think the GM 10 bolt rear ends are a good choice for a Volvo with a powerful engine. I have run them in street/strip cars and have never had a failure of any kind. If you are making enough torque or running big slicks, just install unbreakable axles. I like those made by Summers Bros. I haven't seen an ad for them, so they may have been bought out, but there are many others who make comparable axles.

The 10 bolt is not as heavy as the Ford 9" and there is less parasitic loss. Limited slip or locker differentials are cheap and plentiful.
I'll find the article from Hot Rod or Car Craft...

they say the Ford 8.8 is equal if not a little better than the 10 bolt in some cases...in fact it uses the same exact pinion bearing and shares a lot of common dimensions, the + side is that they are very common and a lot newer....just seems like you don't want a Ford part in your car and are hell bent on the Chevy stuff
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Old 11-15-2008, 09:23 PM   #68
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I have use Ford 9" rear axles in several cars. I like them because they are so easy to set up and it's easy to change ratios by setting up 2 or 3 pumkins. Now they are in high demand and junkyard prices are quite high.

The 10 bolt is cheap because everyone wants a Ford axle. They are perfect for a light car like a Volvo. I would use a Ford 8.8" if I could get it for the same price as a 10 bolt.

If you really want a bulletproof rear axle, go with a Dana 60. I have used them too.

Bearings are commonly used on many axles. A rear end shop only has to carry 15 or 20 different bearings to build 90% of the cars out there.
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Old 11-15-2008, 09:46 PM   #69
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Are spools available for the Volvo/Dana 30 diffs? The reason I ask is that everyone seems to break components in the centres, not the axles themselves.
not at the moment. i have sourced forgings and could have them go into production if there is a big enough interest.they will retail for around $250-300. the only major question is will we go with the stock 27 spline so we can use stock axles, or go to a 30 or 31 spline and have axles made, witch will raise the cost around $350 for a set of axles
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Old 11-15-2008, 10:42 PM   #70
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not at the moment. i have sourced forgings and could have them go into production if there is a big enough interest.they will retail for around $250-300. the only major question is will we go with the stock 27 spline so we can use stock axles, or go to a 30 or 31 spline and have axles made, witch will raise the cost around $350 for a set of axles
you know of a diff that'll go into the stock housing with larger spline count???

if so, I'd be all over this option and could send you a deposit on some axles....
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Old 11-16-2008, 12:26 AM   #71
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you know of a diff that'll go into the stock housing with larger spline count???

if so, I'd be all over this option and could send you a deposit on some axles....
Uhm, he wrote that he could have spools made, so could make them with a higher spline count, which would necessitate the new axles.........
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Old 11-16-2008, 01:28 AM   #72
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Ford 8.8.

If you need proof go on streetfire and search 8.87. Watch the video. That car has an 8.8 in it.

There are many companies that support the 8.8 in the aftermarket and they are fairly reasonable to upgrade.

They also will cost you less weight and hp loss.
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Old 11-16-2008, 01:29 AM   #73
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you know of a diff that'll go into the stock housing with larger spline count???

if so, I'd be all over this option and could send you a deposit on some axles....
at the moment there are two options for lockers with a 30 spline count.
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Old 11-16-2008, 03:49 AM   #74
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if you plan on making 600+ and transbreaking the car at high boost (1.3 60 ft or better) i would consider a 9" or dana 60... but honestly at what your car weighs i would imagine an 8.8 would survive the punishment well, even with stock axles.. good luck!
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Old 11-16-2008, 08:51 AM   #75
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at the moment there are two options for lockers with a 30 spline count.
Lockers that fit in a Dana 30 carrier for large O.D. axles? Care to share more information?

Also, what would be the needed O.D. on an axle shaft to fit on those lockers? Reason I ask is because I have a set of axles that are with larger O.D. that the stock ones, but as of yet they have no splines on them at all. I've been planning on something like bigger half shafts and a modified locker or a limited slip with custom side gears for the shafts.

I did not occur to me that there could readily available lockers for bigger axles. So any info would be hugely appreciated.
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