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Old 02-24-2009, 04:44 AM   #1
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Default New Header Available From KL Racing (2009-2022 bump)

"Extreme" 8v. Comes with external gate with HKS flange:

http://www.klracing.se/?subpage=vara&vara=1622

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Old 02-24-2009, 04:55 AM   #2
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damn cant read it:( there websites from a foreign country :(
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Old 02-24-2009, 05:10 AM   #3
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hmm, $400, not bad...
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Old 02-24-2009, 07:15 AM   #4
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they are also selling the SSautochrome header too........

oh and ARP headstud kits for 16V and 8V
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Old 02-24-2009, 08:14 AM   #5
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SSAC header with the right-side-up flange, however.

The pipes on the "extreme" header remind me of something... the trap under my sink. Bell end piping? Screams cheap to me.

I'd spend the extra $200 and get a Proturbo, myself, if I were buying a header from overseas.

Last edited by Matt Dupuis; 02-24-2009 at 08:45 AM..
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Old 02-24-2009, 08:57 AM   #6
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The runners look like they would collide with everything.
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:20 AM   #7
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thats the one Jens fabbed up for them. should be a good piece.
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:23 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Dupuis View Post
SSAC header with the right-side-up flange, however.

The pipes on the "extreme" header remind me of something... the trap under my sink. Bell end piping? Screams cheap to me.

I'd spend the extra $200 and get a Proturbo, myself, if I were buying a header from overseas.
nice to see you around again.

I emailed proturbo a few months ago and they were "unwilling" to make me a header because they had too many other projects.
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:27 AM   #9
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Is it just me or does that thing look like it juts out more than a foot from the head?
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:45 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenry View Post
Is it just me or does that thing look like it juts out more than a foot from the head?

i was thinking the same thing, that's a big mamba-jamba

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Old 02-24-2009, 09:58 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Dupuis View Post
SSAC header with the right-side-up flange, however.

The pipes on the "extreme" header remind me of something... the trap under my sink. Bell end piping? Screams cheap to me.

I'd spend the extra $200 and get a Proturbo, myself, if I were buying a header from overseas.
Protip: The Proturbo header isn't exactly a paragon of header design.

Oh, and the 3600sek is including VAT, so anyone here buying one would actually pay less than that.

Last edited by Karl Buchka; 02-24-2009 at 10:17 AM..
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Dupuis View Post
SSAC header with the right-side-up flange, however.
From the pic it looks like the ssautochrome header still has the upside down flange


Last edited by MikeHardy; 02-24-2009 at 03:03 PM..
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phenry View Post
Is it just me or does that thing look like it juts out more than a foot from the head?
it looks like there's an angle to the flange in that photo, it's probably just the perspective.
there were photos of a very similar looking one in the showroom a while back.
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:42 AM   #14
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here's the design and fitment of the kl manifold.
http://209.85.133.132/translate_c?hl...eyVcb6w#168340
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Old 02-24-2009, 12:00 PM   #15
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t4 flange is cheaper than the t3 lol

but really for $400 that is very tempting. sadly the only pics i found show it in a 700, wonder if a 200 is too narrow
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Old 02-24-2009, 12:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olov View Post
t4 flange is cheaper than the t3 lol

but really for $400 that is very tempting. sadly the only pics i found show it in a 700, wonder if a 200 is too narrow
sits too far back in a 200 series. the design was for 7-900's.
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Old 02-24-2009, 01:19 PM   #17
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how typical
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Old 02-24-2009, 01:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Buchka View Post
Protip: The Proturbo header isn't exactly a paragon of header design.
It matters not, I'd be supporting my boy in Vancouver if I were to buy a header. The PT is overpriced and shipping is a deal breaker. I was suggesting it more for the Euro folk, not knowing that PT was unwilling to actually work on things.

This Extreme header may well be worth the try, provided it fits a street car. I'm still dubious about the pipes - Kenny's link shows fairly clearly that it was designed by a guy who seems to know a thing or two about headers, but the execution of the production version seems flimsy to me. I also wonder where the rear mount oil filter would go, once you bolt on a wastegate and deal with the plumbing to the downpipe?

Edit - I'm not ripping on this header, I'm just asking the questions.

Last edited by Matt Dupuis; 02-24-2009 at 01:46 PM..
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:04 PM   #19
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does look like the first header would be easier to get a drain pipe straight through
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:09 PM   #20
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The bell piping means you can be extremely lazy in terms of joint fit, as there is no accuracy required for fitup - the pipe can be +/- 0.25" in length and there is no gap since it is slipped inside the other pipe- the end of the pipe can end up anywhere inside the slip joint.

It means every runner has a significant ridge internally at every weld point. Yay turbulence!

I can't see how anyone would think that's a good way to build a header heck at least stock cast manifolds are smooth inside.
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:25 PM   #21
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Hater.
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:29 PM   #22
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Did you guys notice the lack of a collector divider? Pretty lols.
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:30 PM   #23
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At least the ridges are going the right way, Ken. Anyway, there's practically no flow along the wall of a pipe. The welds along the inside of a welded header are probably as detrimental as those, unless there's a substantial gap inside these and even then I wouldn't think it's much of a problem.

My issue is that the bell ends suggest that this is thinwall tubing, and if it were stainless I'd think it wouldn't get painted black like it is. I wouldn't trust mild steel thinwall tubing to hold up much of a turbo, myself. I do like overbuilt stuff, though...
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:40 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Dupuis View Post

My issue is that the bell ends suggest that this is thinwall tubing, and if it were stainless I'd think it wouldn't get painted black like it is. I wouldn't trust mild steel thinwall tubing to hold up much of a turbo, myself. I do like overbuilt stuff, though...
V8 guys do it ALL of the time with big heavy ass turbos with almost no issues. Only Time I have heard of it being an issue is with Mild steel stuff and EGT's getting to hight
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:55 PM   #25
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Quote:
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At least the ridges are going the right way, Ken. Anyway, there's practically no flow along the wall of a pipe.
Maybe - but what you are saying is only true when flow is laminar - which will probably occur because the pipe cross section/velocity is consistent. But, the less effort you put into keeping the cross section consistent, the less this becomes true IMO, as flow becomes less laminar. Maybe it is not to a large degree, but IMO a major priority is to keep things smooth and consistent.


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The welds along the inside of a welded header are probably as detrimental as those, unless there's a substantial gap inside these and even then I wouldn't think it's much of a problem.
Nah dude, maybe with MIG- I'll post a pic when I get home- when I weld thinwall with 100% penetration you can barely even feel the inside of the weld- I shoot for around 0.020" max weld reinforcement on the inside.

Quote:
My issue is that the bell ends suggest that this is thinwall tubing, and if it were stainless I'd think it wouldn't get painted black like it is. I wouldn't trust mild steel thinwall tubing to hold up much of a turbo, myself. I do like overbuilt stuff, though...
Yeah- given that they're mandrel bent sections and not cast elbows, thinwall is probably a safe assumption. Mandrel bent tube in heavier gauges is pretty uncommon.

Whether or not a 16ga mild header will be durable will depend on a lot of factors I think, bracing being a major one. I would never expect a thinwall header to actually have to support the weight of a turbo, regardless of the material.
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