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Vintage B18/20 lifting points

alschnertz

alschnertz

Enough already!
Joined
Oct 4, 2009
Location
CT
Simply pulling an excellent running B20B + M41 from a '70 145 in one piece. Using an engine hoist with load leveler.

I think I used the left front of the head and the upper right rearmost exhaust stud when this engine (only) went in 20 years ago. Now, I'd like to avoid removing the exhaust manifold to access the same stud as an attaching point.
I'm thinking that the head bolts and/or rocker shaft bolts may not be a good idea either since this is such a good running engine.

What bolt holes would you use to lift it in a case like this?
(Such a newb question from an old shade tree guy)
 
I believe there is a lifting point on the right side of the block rearward of the oil filter and a little higher. It’s the hole for the thermo time sensor on the Djet engines. AFAIK the Volvo SVO lifting tool uses this threaded hole. Not sure what the thread size is.
 
There are 2 large threaded holes on the right side of the block but they're for the engine stand, not the lifting tool.

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/images/VolvoEngineStand.jpg
VolvoEngineStand.jpg


The lifting lugs bolt to the rear exhaust manifold stud and the holes on the front of the engine where the A/C bracket usually goes.

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/images/EngineLiftingTools.jpg
EngineLiftingTools.jpg


http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/images/RearLiftingLug.jpg
RearLiftingLug.jpg


http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/images/FrontLiftingLug.jpg.
FrontLiftingLug.jpg


http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/images/LiftingEngine.jpg
LiftingEngine.jpg
 
For posterity...
the thread size of those bosses on the right side of the engine are 5/8"-11.
 
alschnertz said:
I like that engine stand.
Click to expand...
No doubt, that's awesome. I always use a conventional one that holds it by the bellhousing bolts, and that's fine up tot he point you want to put the flywheel on. At that point I have to use the engine hoist to lift it, take off the engine stand, and do all the flywheel/clutch stuff with the motor dangling.
 
I have a few conventional stands that have long enough spacers to allow the flywheel to be installed but it's tight. It's definitely easier to rotate the engine on the Volvo stand and set the flywheel on the end of the crank instead of holding it up trying to align the the bolt holes. My only complaint is that I can't paint the entire engine on the stand.

I also have adapters for D24, B30 and B21/B23 engines. Guess which one I got from Jack. :lol:

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/images/VolvoEngineStandAdapters.jpg
VolvoEngineStandAdapters.jpg
 
Only some of the bolt holes on the outside of the block are metric on the '74-'75 blocks. Most of them are still standard thread. It's just the bell housing bolts and the A/C bracket bolts that are metric AFAIK. Even the head bolts are still standard. The crank is all metric however including the main cap bolts.

Harry Tuttle said:
Doesn't work on my '75 B20 :grrr:
Click to expand...

The bosses for the engine stand and rear pickup point are the same thread on all B18/B20 blocks, 5/8"-11. Try chasing the threads, they're probably full of paint/crud/rust.
 
The bosses for the engine stand and rear pickup point are the same thread on all B18/B20 blocks, 5/8"-11. Try chasing the threads, they're probably full of paint/crud/rust.
Click to expand...

This. I had to chase pretty much all the needed threads when installing or removing my Amazon's engine.
 
hiperfauto said:
The bosses for the engine stand and rear pickup point are the same thread on all B18/B20 blocks, 5/8"-11. Try chasing the threads, they're probably full of paint/crud/rust.
Click to expand...

I investigated this further. Previously, when the bolt did not freely screw into the hole in the front lower corner of the block, I did not look any closer, because, like others, I assumed that the thread was metric. The hole in the upper rear corner of the block is occupied by the thermo time switch, so the threads there are like new. The 5/8" bolt screws in there like butter.
 
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