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Jared's '79 5.3 244 Project: The Qwikbrik

got to see this car in person today....i love it.

and thanks to YOU, now i have to get megasquirt so i dont get lh'd anymore :lol:
 
i got to ride in it with derek driving, it feels very very quick.

definitely could use more turbo, but it rips
 
got to see this car in person today....i love it.

and thanks to YOU, now i have to get megasquirt so i dont get lh'd anymore :lol:

Sounds like a plan. It's a whole different world man.

and i have to get megasquirt so i dont get regina'd anymore...

good seeing you again, jared! the car is lookin sexyyy

Thanks a bunch. Give us a holler if you need help on yours.

get all the ignition stuff sorted? hows it feel timed? probably less det now.

Slowed down a bit...base timing was at 28* advanced :lol: That'll do it.

i got to ride in it with derek driving, it feels very very quick.

definitely could use more turbo, but it rips

Don't worry-a 19T conversion will happen before the summer's over.
 
hot dang son... what's it at now???

10*, like it should be.

The hold-down bolt for the CAS went missing, and it moved, thus changing base timing. Nick noted that given the way the distributor shaft turns, the CAS would have to turn the opposite direction to advance timing, so I'm not sure what happened. All is well now though.

I'm also battling a little bit of what I think is vapor lock. A couple weeks back, I got tired of the gas tank releasing pressure every time I took the cap off. I pulled the plastic trim out and sure enough, the one-way vent valve was stuck shut, and has been for years. I took it out and just ran the vent hose straight off the tank.

Now (it's done it twice) on a very hot afternoon, after I drive the car a bit, let it idle/sit in traffic/etc, and park for a minute, it doesn't run right. It'll idle and free-rev just fine, but when a load is put on the car, it falls on it's face, bucking badly.

Let it sit and cool for 10-20 minutes, and all is well again. Matt's dad heard a "pop", I got back in, and it drove perfectly. I'm going to replace that one-way valve, and then get started on upgrading my fueling system. It's the 32-year-old weak link at this point anyhow.
 
see what the IAT values are after it sits, see how bad the sensor heatsoaks and how it affects fueling.
 
Even with the tank at atmospheric - your pumps and 40 psig (give or take) should keep you out of vapor lock Jared; one of the benefits of higher pressure fuel required for fuel injection. I wonder if the vent valve being stuck was allowing a bit of pressure to build in the tank (hence the 'whoosh' when you remove the cap) -- and that is masking a bad/weak in-tank pump or a deteriorated in-tank hose on the outlet of that pump. And when you 'permanently' vented the tank, your pressure assist moving fuel out of the tank to the in-line pump went away.

Is the one-way valve the little device that sits high on the tank opposite the rearend? Mine's probably due for replacement as well. If so - can anyone see the harm in simply replumbing the aged vent line and relocating that device somewhere more convenient? It would make 'demolition' much easier - just rip out the old hose, leave the old valve in-place, run new hose and put the new valve under the car somewhere easier to get to. Ironically - I've been all around that hose/valve as I've completely re-plumbed the fuel system on mine.

Sorry - hijack....
 
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Even with the tank at atmospheric - your pumps and 40 psig (give or take) should keep you out of vapor lock Jared; one of the benefits of higher pressure fuel required for fuel injection. I wonder if the vent valve being stuck was allowing a bit of pressure to build in the tank (hence the 'whoosh' when you remove the cap) -- and that is masking a bad/weak in-tank pump or a deteriorated in-tank hose on the outlet of that pump. And when you 'permanently' vented the tank, your pressure assist moving fuel out of the tank to the in-line pump went away.

Is the one-way valve the little device that sits high on the tank opposite the rearend? Mine's probably due for replacement as well. If so - can anyone see the harm in simply replumbing the aged vent line and relocating that device somewhere more convenient? It would make 'demolition' much easier - just rip out the old hose, leave the old valve in-place, run new hose and put the new valve under the car somewhere easier to get to. Ironically - I've been all around that hose/valve as I've completely re-plumbed the fuel system on mine.

Sorry - hijack....

As for the in-tank pump, it's a recent replacement, about 8 months before I stopped driving the car. That said, it is an "Airtex" brand, and I remember it feeling cheap when I put it in. The submersible hose was also replaced with the correct submersible fuel line.

The one way valve was located (on my car) under the black plastic trim underneath the carpet on the passenger side of the trunk. There's a nipple off the filler tube , and the valve is close to that, before it transitions to a hard line and goes under the car to a nylon line which originally went to the charcoal canister. The valve was red and black.

I know vapor lock isn't very common on EFI cars, but that's just what it felt like. Whatever is going "pop" once the car cools is where the problem lies.
 
Hmmm....there's nothing between the filler tube connection and the device I described earlier on mine. Just hose. And I misspoke - it's not attached to the tank on mine; but rather the unibody just above the tank. Perhaps they changed locations between your year and mine.
 
LOL - I have no idea what I'm seeing -- that's why I asked....

Educate me - if there's a 'one-way vent valve' -- what purpose would a 'roll over valve' serve?

Edit -- duh, I guess the check valve keeps anything (like boost) from possibly pressurizing the tank; rollover valve keeps liquid from exiting the tank through the vent line in the vent the car gets upside down.
 
Just to update this a bit...

Fuel system is now a Walbro 255 in the tank, and a stock LH pump under the car. I probably don't need the LH pump, but I didn't have the fittings required to bypass it. It's working fine.

It's now got a G80 out back.

Cable clutch has been ditched in favor of a hydraulic setup.

And I got an RSI Stage II cam in the mail today. The K that's in there will be going in BrnBrik to see how quick we can make it as an N/A.

Gonna roll out and take some pictures tonight.
 
May have brakes after this weekend; but could be the next one after that. Glad yours is coming along. Lose that LH as soon as you can; Walbro is plenty by itself.
 
i thought i read on facebook that you grenaded your clutch???

needless to say im glad you didnt, but maybe i misread?
 
The Kennedy Stage III pressure plate grenaded everything but the clutch...

Started pulling the cable apart

Bent the pedal box all to hell:

Hjz6al.jpg


Cracked the firewall and pulled a weld-nut through:

tzbWnl.jpg


8XLQol.jpg
 
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